attacking a monojet

[boxer3main]

found a correct spot to hook it up, now carb is back to coughing.

I do have high beam lamps with engine running again.

my first guesses for the monojet were not wrong, this fat barrel needs a heater all year round at the fuel line. I took resistor away from carb to fix tach, and now the carb is not happy (I had the resistor heat wrapped on the fuel line). Full rpms ahead, no mistakes. I may do something clever with a coolant line that the intake does not use anymore..wrap the fuel line in copper and feed it the coolant back to subarus own return...act as a heater.

sounds strange, but I'll get a photo.
the cough is at jumping on throttle in dead rev. Not much of it anywhere else.

the CDI install was a gain at slow speed gas odors, and cold start. that is no doubt conquered. Now back to carbs initial problems.

heating the fuel is something it really responded well to. As of now, I think it incresed fuel mileage as well. I drove around without the carb heater and it is not doing so good as it was.

edit:
amperage priority finding. I did find something unintentional. going for the fattest 12v IGN switched is common sense to most of us to plug in an ignition box there. the most amps drawn to the most given. 1 amp per 1k rpm. at 5k rpm, that is at least 1/5th of the cars capability to juice it. nothing else takes that much by oem. why do they have those 707 landing gear lights that lit?

I got to thinking..if I am in a correct splice, but now the feed is not big enough (I have signs of old ignition in my new ignition at 2500rpm..where it needs the most). I am going to take the plug apart getting fed, and swap the plugins. In theory this should still leave lights alone, as I am not on that wire anymore.. yet give the cdi box the bigger juice I already measured, and ran to 7500 rpm faultlessly. the no odors in rich condition (cold start, or fat accel pump) was priceless. I will not be giving up this quest. Seems easy now with trial end error behind me. I feel for those that have no beginning or end in the spaghetti under the dash. The map even by oem can't even dictate where the bigger amps are going to go, and if they did..they don't know what will interfere with what when one needs to tap it. Some manufactures are natural pros at reading users minds about the future of stuff getting plugged in. I won't confess my favorite.

I am lucky with this old ricer. Adding ignition is a big deal...it sure as hell was my least favorite. I procrastinated a needed cdi box for years.

[boxer3main]

checking things out for a finale...
the route has to be where its at, I simply removed diode from ignition box postitive..something I did on my own, wanting a filter. nothing to notice. diode did get warm, so it was doing something. Taking box apart, had the same looking diodes inside, more than one. I wonder what prehistoric ignition box I was thinking of to diode the power line to box.

to gain a power source I want would need a hefty alternator.

the wiring turned out to be on a fuse that says LH TAIL..and has nothing to do with either. That is as lively as I can get it and not interfere with ANY other electrical function...so I gave it a twenty amper to not only remember where my fuel pump, mag packup and ign box is sucking, but give it a little more. I would have to kill headlight circuit entirely to get ignition where I want it (this does have a nice run with big power). I did chop off quite a few feet of the oem path for all 3..and a "fuel pump control box" that does nothing useful, and whatever circuit the original mag pickup was on had two 12v+ feeding the pickup...just another problem solved.

the mag pickup and ign box to be sharing a source is something I found in accels diagrams for a gm vehicle. that is clever..as that stuff needs to time in starting with electrical.

the cold start is a bam instead of pussyfooting around like it used to. This strangely stays the exact same any time of year. I was reading dieselgeeks reply about timing and very hot weather..it is the truth. Does not need to move anymore than original setting that kept engine happy for given fuel..all year round, even maine into 20s below F.

I am learning too.

I would laugh if the x-flare aimed at earth in the space weather toay is yet another trick..not getting far with my setup, but is an after thought.

next is finding a heat source for fuel line. the coolant is tempting at 180-200F..and never anymore.

[boxer3main]

the coming days are the peak of the year here. Three 90 somethings in a row is a wow factor.

the ionization game to bring cool air into ducts worked exactly as a nerd predicted. the air is colder than the outside. i love driving around. A boxer is supposed to be a grand champion there anyway, front mount or back..can't forget the 914 un the middle.

I was headed for discouraged, as an odor towards warm up was almost smellable.. and thought, I added nothing to this ignition. It occured to me capacitors don't change right way. I gave it just a few miles, a shutdown for awhile...where the old runtime used to smother me in a fake odor of fuel (hollow strange). Today it did not do that. The ignition box is going to back to warm/hot at runtime, and the little duct right below it responds like an einstein intended. draws cold air right into the cabin. The cough seems to be nil, but know not to romp on it fast just yet. it would have to battle an incomplete puddle possibly. it is a very powerful spark. just right, nothing racer about it. Between the igntion coming around to its final spot, without diode a little more juice is speeding the change up nice..the new resistor for tach will be here soon, and I'll put the hot one back to heating fuel line. With just one or the other, the resistor and oem ignition, or the CDI ignition without resistor, it does good. Adding both will be the icing on the cake.

drop ceiling liner for the thin shiny heat foil, and I am certain to like this no matter what outside is doing. the glass is so tiny...hardly a fish bowl even as a wagon.

"LH TAIL" on the fuse label. in previous post this is where I put the pump, mag pickup and cdi box. the only hefty wire available that did not interfere with anything when running. I have since concluded that label on the box means an area of the car. a physics ID. Not in use apparently. It may be far fetched for an explanation..but seems to make a whole lot of sense. Afuse where nothing was happening. The car is pretty much dead simple. no extras at all. There is a whole lot of fuses for some reason. I popped open the hatch and could smell the 3m caulking I put on the weld seams on driver side inner wheel well two years ago. Very troublesome area. the lower quarters are 3.5mm laminated steel. the weld went on for 3 years just to make a true hardness. The car is finally getting a finale...like a living entity. opening the door you know its ready. you know what I mean? older people would. Cars used to sit dead as logs. since injection, all that went away. I never did learn how the right rear stayed so much stronger than the left...this may have answered it for me. the right rear has an active fuel pump, and the fuel gauge for tank is favored on right side. the left rear is dead as could be..where most of the steel had problems. like an in motion of grounding instead of being a filled electrical type outward. invisible to explain.

I know what i mean. hard to explain. I won't be forgetting it though, learning in my own way. I do know how to fill up a simple carbed electrical. I would even try it ground up, bare empty box.

[boxer3main]

I guess I get into some nerdy boring stuff in the posts.
there is some fun gained.
with a rev limiter, a tach is only a special item. one can figure speeds with the ignition.

To my surprise, I just realized I buried third into rev limit. Forgot to check the gear calc.

it starts at 7500 , even though set for 8000. that means no more gain after 7500.

so, with two gears to go, the 90hp is at 103mph.

I do realize this is self incriminating..but there is no hard evidence to go with my crazy claim.

I ponder just 3psi on the high compression...130s at loring. the gears are tall enough to call it a touring wagon. based on foot pounds, the four banger sounds in video don't do the boxer justice. I still get tricked by beetles on the net, to hear them go down a quarter, and see 10 point something seconds as an official time (amazing contrast). this sube is just like that..but has a bit of scream, and the classic boxer torque. one will have to put the pieces of facts together themselves with some imagination.

I want what I gained to go with a sale of relaity. A track time may be useless being so tall.

[boxer3main]

photo shows parellel setup

browsing around seeing what is out there to simply place next to a straight section of steel fuel line near the carb to act as a heater. the 56 ohm resistor was nice, it did get warm..but I want to drop volts even further (disperse more watts) and increase heat. sure enough, found this fancy one with accurate numbers written at the 12v setup and watts dispersed (compare to a lightbulb). the one above is stand alone.

just one resistor is:

@14v, 98 watts dispersed as heat (7amps). Even at half that more heat than I have now. This will also keep the ground side , where I screw it to top of carb, to a lower volt.

I was messing with fuel pump to find an always on source with key, and was playing with throttle when there was no pump during runtime. the hesitation almost stopped somewhere between full float bowl and empty. Rather than try and find this exact sweet spot of weight in the bowl, as maine changes from 28 below to 90s above..this heater defies all that, and moves the goops that build up in a cold carb as well. Not to mention the ground side is screwed to top of carb, further synching a mystery, like a gadget on a feedback setup...only much simpler.
with an igntion big enough to be audbile, like amobile home furnace...
this should get what I want.

[boxer3main]

91 F outside and I am making a fuel heater. A large 5w resistor from my burnt mig welders little pcb turned out to be a nice hot one on 12v. too hot by itself, I reamed the end you seein photo just to get the square ceramic box resistor inside the old mig welders tip. all copper, resistor electricaly sealed on its own..very nice transfer of heat. this passes the electrical tape test, and will always be cooler because of frigid compression on the fuel line..even today…at 92F outside and an odd X-flare storm, that line is darn cool. This will get it where I want it. The length of it allows me to move up or down the fuel line, about a foot of straight line right outside the carb, to adjust. Sealed with high temp copper exhaust silicone by permatex. for the connection, soldered leads and heatshrunk. this passed that test as well. solders did not melt.

4.4 ohm. on a 9.6v power supply, the output was 5.6v. I do not know what twelve is going to do, and do not need to care. it may be more gentle, may not. will test soon enough.

kinda like winter outside. too cold and one stays in...too hot and it is the same. will wait for sealant to dry and plug this right in. it is a hot one. maybe wrap it again in soft aluminum, and use a clamp, no taping.

530. installed this, clamped with a thin clamp, it did get a bit warmer than the 9.6v power. Carb stays cold, but line did accept heat. This is very noticable in the winter. Driving for some time with the heater the carb seems to clean up something. A smell of road kill for a minute or two, like the last time, only it was the dead of winter -the same thing. Something does puddle up in the carbs. heavy settle, light moves. Agitating it like injectors nearly boiling fuel before it gets to a cylinder does work. cough dwindles to hardly bothersome. This fuel heater is hotter than that first version, and proves to need it. will wrap it once more to avoid getting burnt fingers.

830. got a little ride in..seems jumpier than ever. wrapped in a coffee can then electrical taped, a clamp keeping pressure for heat transfer, over the can keeping it more sealed to the line. it absorbs all of it, does not even get luke warm. Very very hot little heater I made there. I even doubted the wires I used...but its hanging in there. increased fuel pressure may be the cuplrit..I have it passive through a .030 restriction back to tank. This was jumpy after first line heater, and it went to very nice eventually. Don't know what I did. I'll let this go. most likely moving some crap around. pulling back in the idle was a tad stronger, I mean a bit more full. I did throw alot at this... just drive.

[boxer3main]

back to bitumen odor. Not fuel. I suppose it is flipping it out of the bowl.

I guess I am missing the whole carb to something goopy. did not really know it.. For about twenty minutes it took to warm up the line, and I found I had no desire to shift into higher rpms on some steep hills local. Gaining it back already.

clean by our own eyes is not the runtime. I guess I go for fuel additives.

the fuel heater is turning out to be awesome. even the fuel line gets almost too warm for fingers..not just the heater. I guess it does work, stay patient. just right. the bowl is cool at all times with venting and mystery...does not care about the heat, except moving nasty stuff out. My hitachi was a roaster at the fuel line, the whole carb was as hot as the damn engine. I only realized the value of this when I took it apart after 25 years. Spotless. I mean hospital grade sterile like spotless. Two tiny jets a hair could even clog..and it never failed. This heater and additives should get it.

an odd note: the choke and its heat does nothing on the rochester, it needs an external source to work its way in. the most solid moving thing beside electricity stabbed into the top of it is the heater for fuel. I now have both.

[boxer3main]

for giggles, I unplugged the "ig-coil, fuel, and EGI" fuse and car kept running. (giggle). I remeber that as being the big drama fuse. if that blows something very bad happened. you lost it all then. no pump, no coil, mag pickup, nothing. dead as a log. I must have knocked out 4.6 miles of wiring in that one move.
to use original ignition, plug fuse back in and swap wires in engine bay.

the bad:
upon realizing the bowl vent cannot be check valved for carb.. I forget why. it may be the fuel vent canister tank filled up and then the engine choked later. No matter what I did..what that gets is bad fuel. The bonus of keeping the fuel vent from bowl to can an open line, dampered only..it makes it so no odors of fuel at all, ever. I guess I'll have to live with the cough until a sterile gas tank gets put in. it still may win with the heat on fuel line, proper electrical dispersing on the invisible side utilizing the whole chassis.
one could laugh, but I seem to have made a generalization for this design. you can even find a hot fuel line as it enters the body near the end of rocker panel if it is like this one. Even a dodge omni used it. it may explain that gtr fire halfway up driver side.

anyway...safe, but a cough, and that is the crap we all have to choke on. can't hide it forever.

I found the poop is precise enough when clutch is engaging, throttle can indeed take a quick snap. it needs to be loaded to get out of the mystery poop. full power. Alot of years missing its backside, the dark side...now found, it may even be choking on the mystery white powder batteries get sometimes...it comes out of nowhere. the -12v monster.

[boxer3main]

the monojet is primitive and complex enough to slam some fuel through it with boost. the timing becomes a problem. Digital plays with interrupts, I love digitial on ignition.
fuel is actually easy.

I found accel 49375, and map sensors to go with it. it works in conjunction with accel 300+. pricy, but alot less than I thought. I may get into that some day. I have a final silly daydream of symmetrical boost on the symmetrical headers on the self balanced waterboxer. A gimmick to have more than one turbo, but seems fitting in this cars dual timing belt stereotyped history. 7500rpm all on its own, with maine fuel where 93 octane is not even an option. just imagine I guess. Finding the few people that drove these in the 80s for rally leagues had a 190hp peak, and 181 foot pounds. I truly imagine the sound of satan if there ever was one. 9k rpm rev limit. that was the 80s. what does digital and defining paths of fuel all on ones own do today? the rally guys respected subaru too much. they even kept tiny wheels on.factory header. holy crap. that puts a theory of my own build near 300hp. probably todays double fired 600.

I was checking over settings I had for rev limiter.. it is at 8500rpm, dip switch #1 is up. it is a good thing I did that. I don't think it gets past 7500. So..for accel 300+ it may need a thousand rpm beyond what you want. maybe length of harness is doing it. oh well. safe is safe.

I missed loring, but the newspaper got some info. good stuff. the hayabusa natural at 1635cc did over 230mph...running faster than nitro class.

my own relastic thoughts on my own far fetched quest... have me stumped at 103 in third with two more gears to go. it is playing out in reality as much as I simply thunk it in the first place.
todays stuff does something for anything. aftermarket parts.

[boxer3main]

I have two optical distributors for an ea82. yes I said optical. I pondered some things...

I found the accel 300+ does not like the retard catcher on the primary advance diaghram and will be attempting to run without. the mag pickup does really good. the ignition seems to be that fast. it does not want to slow down for fat barrel monojet. that is to say I could be in for a pleasant throttling surprise.

if so..the advance curve via vacuum, will only get a secondary on the traditonal mag pickup..
if this turns out to be true, I am going to attempt an optical disty on an accel 300...with no vacuum advancing.

no advice at all for this...but everything is slicked up and easy to swap around. been experimenting with alot of little things, and surprised at what does come around.