attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

accel 300+ $119.99 delivered

This place is about passing parts around, known names and good functions.

I knew to check the accel 300+ from ebay very closely.
As it turned out, it reminded me of many power supplies over the years of building my own pc. I have gone as far as voiding warranties from day one to smother the pointy short snappers on the bottoms of pcbs with two part urethane at .25 inch thick. I am still running one now at 45,000 hours. A first for me..and don't lie, you never went that far either.


the accel box being 80 bucks cheaper and free shipping had me taking it apart carefully...two errors are mentioned in previous post, did not hurt anything at all. right back together, only better.

grab one while you can ,the guy admitted he bought a warehouse full of mr. gasket stuff...he was not even sure himself what he's got. he does have 3 cdi boxes left.

ebay link


the box does come with everything, conectors, a harness to splice into universal..and this leaves box to be taken out easily and replaced. we do know how CDI boxes go sometimes. I still like diodes, and having the box in a place where the cars oem would have an ECU, and then run a long harness out to engine bay throguh a rubber waterproof spot, also oem approved. My version has a chance in hell that will win it eventually anyway. I HAVE to try this hard.

two thumbs up, my lucky purchase for this month. This accel also has the standard warranty card to mail in, and the lifetime limited stuff applies.
being a risc chip in a bios hard protection may never die, the mosfets and diodes etc is things I would repair on my own anyway.

[Barry Donovan]

video

no tach..but got close to the limiter. I watched another vid with a dart 340..the accel igntion sneaks up on the limit. no hard snap. This one is set to 8000...that is how I know from speedo as well. just over 7500..then the little buggy goes back to its humble 90hp around 75mph, it starts to show.

loves to climb right to it slowly. very smart ignition..it is not just like it conformed to keep climbing..it really does it.

if you have some bassy speakers, the sound is fun.
love that bellow.

I also have 20 x15 amp fuses on the way..start over on clean factory setup. ignition may be floating and conforming..but the rest is the old school fuse box. must follow the amps sizes. in this vid, i did not show it..but high beams cut off engine. A problem I have had in the past. Nothing to replace. float the fuse box back to factory..get it out of chasing grounds.

[Barry Donovan]

accel 300+ first cold start

first day after install.
fuel pump now turns on with key
accel igntion coil, 300+cdi box (can't see it, but is not far from fuse box), and plug wires.

I grounded the protected sheathing for coil signals after this vid. Noticably faster timing difference to disperse bleed safely. To measure a tiny bleed was an interesting thing to find. Nice cables to disperse it to a place of my choosing, this keeps all wires under the dash nearby safe..the ground for sheathing is to the left of fuse box, right to the chassis.

still no tach, no instructions.
this start routine, if to keep the same battery, is year round. The outside temperature does not matter. I am impressed that it is a 35 year old carburetor. This vid shows the best start to date. I have it squeezed into mid 30s mpg, city or not.

high beams switched on kill the engine, and the seeming slow climb into powerful fire reminds of the past with me and this very non-ecm subaru. I need a good battery (it is now four years and hit by lightning), and all the fuses mapped the way subaru shipped it. A ground is finding itself with the new stuff installed. Some get uptight over this mystery. the old sube. I admit, I got mad as hek the first time..that was after installing a powerful coil only. It needed the battery its got in it now. that was four years ago.

this will only get tighter once the little monsters get out of the 25 year old chassis...am really liking the sharpness of the timing curve dialing in. The accel does not forget it. Another physics thing is the channels are all sealed box beam around engine. A computer keeps these very clean for some reason. hertz mystery. This car has never had an ecm type clock buzzing its way around. So for grounds to fight the way they are..the battle is on right away. I am pleased with this. odd error and fixes itself.

[Barry Donovan]

tach is working!

I got the tach to work!!

I forgot coils themselves don’t even know their own positive from neg. Here I have an accel coil on an accel 300+..and the positive side gives a reading for tach to understand ("supposed to be" a negative). blah blah about “should be no other wires on the coil”. Even oem has to tap a signal.

Long story short, I knew their was a combo missing, real obvious one. The oem tach is powered if meter fuse is good. just awaits a signal. So it was just one wire. One wire to have what could have been another $200 in an external tach quest. I hooked up the oem NEG coil wire to NEG labeled side of coil..and still no tach. For giggles..two days later, I tried it on what is labeled positive. instant tachometer. Nice.

So now with one plug swap, and the two coil wires…wallah. dual ignition. That may be less than 5 minutes in “work”.Both with tach. Cool hey? no splicing. if I was real enthused, I would make it so it all on a switch. just pop hood, flip switch between oem and ACCEL.

this made my day. A tach wires and adapter costs more than the damn ignition, then I would have to find a spot for it.

Also a follow up on the way fuel is working. I want on with key on, full return system needs a longer run than a "primer timer". The pump gets real quiet when the fuel is real, even at full volts. I proved to myself it was starving to the little volt side of the runtime. I found it switched between 12v to 8v via a control that looks like a relay. It would be interesting to set that up further with a pressure switch. when switch realizes it is 3 psi or whatever, have what would be off to fuel pump, off to the side of relay that drops it to 8v..and then run in slow mode. As pressure ever loses the 3psi, switch back on, the relay kicks it to 12v. The same controller normally has an ECM helping something, subaru made it work through some resistors..tied in with a "dash light check" that lasts a few seconds and no more, right after turning key on. this indicates, a full off to get to the 8v side of relay. it would be an interesing hack. unique fuel setup, very thought out...simply.

if that works I will map it and keep a page in my pile of home made manual.

[Barry Donovan]

running out of juice

got tach going...
went and did a dead rev to test limiter. I have never got the tach beyond 6500..and it still don't. it is neat to know that 8k rpoms is getting reached, the tach canlt reach the last 1000 rpm.

driving home, turned lights on..a cough at 3k rpm. what the ?!

not enough power electrically. I checked over rocker panels, found a new hole. filled it in (as there is two rockers) with fiber fill. Driver side hole equals power loss.

even with all my weld, I still have to do some tin can things.

I did find a 90amp alternator hack for offroad buggies and big lights, its from a gm cop car (brians caprice years of cop car)

it may just need to settle in, as I have set this off a couple of times. a bigger coil, I thought I could do giant light bulbs once..it always caught up eventually. for some odd reason it takes days and not a few minutes. maybe it is volt regulator not smart enough.

I will try new plug for alternator, and thicker gauge wires to go with it first thing. the old plug wiggles around, and the wires are absurd.knowing how the harness works, I can change wires out and make it oem appearance.


my neat cabling work.
a trick for the coil negative being shared for tach was found in a vid by autometer on youtube. simply find a .25 or .5 watt resistor somewhere in the 10.kohm (match a typical coil), and I go further with a tiny wire from a pc, and a diode.
a filter via diode, resisted with resistor, and amp drop with small wire forces the coil to keep full fire..and add power back to car, ambiguously.

[Barry Donovan]

attack the tach

rant= after ragging the lawn off the bumper and hood, my neighbor really understands the value of a ten geared subaru like the rest of maine. I am glad her 5 year old focus had a broken rocker panel. Ken Block won't do a donut with that one. learn how to run a mower. eye level blades exiting to a windshield does not need an unsafe path spewing all over the tin can. That is somehow so stupid I assume malicious intent. /rant


the top wire is 14awg for reference. Being the tach is powered, just wants a signal… the signal side that feeds it has no power. So..I thought like a pc builder and gave it a tiny wire. Sure enough, did not even get warm, tach works perfectly. I wrapped the whole thing and gave it a shrink wrap connector for coil end. one more fuse back to 15 amp and drove it for just a few minutes. climbed out already. It does add power to give the tach minimal.

The start even pretended to be its old routine, which sucked, after 15 amp fuse swap to subarus map. It felt almost like a switch to come back out in a big hurry, onto new lively run. The ecu clock is kicking butt to these sticky old analog games. Maybe dual ignition for a back-to-oem choice is not so smart..but when those cdi boxes decide to fail..there must be an option. I’ll leave it as such.

Cleaning out all the 15 amp fuses to be the same when they arrive, and going no further on this subject. A long drive, and taking note that it is dry and static here for the few days during and after install. A path needs to be set. Cough cured when I need to load it at rpms low, and cold starts have a real fuel pressure to build and real ignition. Just going to go with it. To change quick a very low level function, at thousands of times a minute.. after 25 years..that is doing good.

c/n no resistor, no diode needed..simply a six inch tiny lead to feed a tach signal. Fixed.

[Barry Donovan]

add fuel to the hazard

I was checking something at the steering column, seemed sloppy..turned out to be the adjuster for up and down..simply gave it a nudge to tight..this is after taking the steering column apart to get at the serious complex problem.

I then hit the hazard switch by accident and heard the fuel pump kick on. Hmm. I don't need that now, the car is off.

I had the fuel pump wired into the hazard relay.


break down, hit hazards, add fuel to the fire. watch it burn. problems solved.

anyway, i did find a smaller gauge true 12v ignition. for advice, as silly as I got..the steering column has a bunch of different size red wires. alot of them are ignition, sized to go to different busses. The fuel pump is quite happy as a medium gauge. I don't know what to call them in a japanese car.
I did learn this car well, same as most others. I wanted to do something different for fuel pump always on..but findng a small enough gauge wire keeps it happy. I don't know where it is fused, but all of those wires are.

I am verifying something is not right in the battery. all fuse links get warm. Following what is feeding it..the alt wire gets the warmest. A very long drive to get this poor thing going is in order.

[Barry Donovan]

10k ohm 1/2 watt resistor

here is that vid I mentioned, bouncy tach. resistor do more than stop bouncy tachs, they reduce amperage.
I went and found 20 for 1.79 delivered..they are on the way.

without tach, lights off...I can climb to 7500. with tach on large wire, bad news, lights on or off- starts htching at 3k rpm. Tach on small wire..3k rpm and starts hitching with lights on. without lights on, it seems to be normal..but can tell it is still under powered. I have a spare alternator, if someone knows how to hack for more amperage.

no high beams in any combination. This whole spell is something from the past. alt and battery is a fix. by no high beams, I mean they turn on, but shuts engine right off.

I have unhooked my resistor going to carb. noticed nothing.

EDIT: duh. resistor. I had a spare after unhooking it from the carb. it is only 56ohm but tried it. the blip is indeed the multispark going to single fire. my own tach shows it at 3k rpm. It worked, no more cutting out..but I can still see the blip at 3k. the 10k ohm must block more of course. But can survive for now with lights on beyond 3k rpm. Still no high beams while keeping engine running..and it shuts off engine hard. Blam. instant off. (no matter the tach combo)

[Barry Donovan]

the headlight cutting engine

ok..flashback, could be what seems like ahundred years.

scenario:
new igntion controller, nature is to find a big fat 12v ign wire.

the sube is so small at the starter , the headlamps have a fatter wire. Guess where I am hooked up?

tomorrow is another day..will park the 12v ign right somwehere in the same bundle, see what happens. Headlamps have a unique way with amps. they don't stop for another volt. they are like resistors...thief it righ tin and not even blow out. That has to be this way..else we'd be in the dark driving by a radioactive skunk.

so. that is my guess for now. there should be plenty of power. the alternator is from a 1993. the original 1987 tragedy no longer exists.

an interesting thing with fuel pump..finding a new spot. it is loud with just key on, big prime..then calms noticably being on a shared wire after starting. just right. glad I chose the wire I did.

ign box on the other hand.. I want it close to an alternator big volts. headlamps get them, not sure what else does. will test wires for beyond 12volt when running, and of course active with key on only. (that is how to find a big wire- the volts will shoot up beyond 12 when running). Not sure where to look. be nice to find original magnet pickup. maybe one more wire out into engine bay to tap it. which sucks. I have it all incognito and clever.

I'll just let my tester do the searching.

[Barry Donovan]

on a positive note

wiggle the fuse link, I needed to go to store. I smoke cigarrettes like kids to eating candy. metallic problem.

traffic gone. it is quiet at night. I know what I got now. Can't pay attention to your own stuff when traffic is as thick as a stampede.

I double take a listen myself on rare occasion. my own stuff has not been normal ever. it is not about power for me. Finding a dead body with a car dangling off a tree changed me forever. That is not engines. that is not power. that is not the joy of real machining. it is an act of bad balance. ambiguous in more than two ways..

hardly boasting, only finally self convinved this is where I have been daydreaming a simple resolve so delayed for this 3 main "waterboxer". you won't know it is a subaru of any kind.

you won't know that 7500 rpm with 3 different screams going at the same time.

you will have to look.

this thread is a generalization for anybody. it is millions of automobiles. A humble end of the spectrum is only an example.

[Barry Donovan]

cdi box rerouted

found a correct spot to hook it up, now carb is back to coughing.

I do have high beam lamps with engine running again.

my first guesses for the monojet were not wrong, this fat barrel needs a heater all year round at the fuel line. I took resistor away from carb to fix tach, and now the carb is not happy (I had the resistor heat wrapped on the fuel line). Full rpms ahead, no mistakes. I may do something clever with a coolant line that the intake does not use anymore..wrap the fuel line in copper and feed it the coolant back to subarus own return...act as a heater.

sounds strange, but I'll get a photo.
the cough is at jumping on throttle in dead rev. Not much of it anywhere else.

the CDI install was a gain at slow speed gas odors, and cold start. that is no doubt conquered. Now back to carbs initial problems.

heating the fuel is something it really responded well to. As of now, I think it incresed fuel mileage as well. I drove around without the carb heater and it is not doing so good as it was.

edit:
amperage priority finding. I did find something unintentional. going for the fattest 12v IGN switched is common sense to most of us to plug in an ignition box there. the most amps drawn to the most given. 1 amp per 1k rpm. at 5k rpm, that is at least 1/5th of the cars capability to juice it. nothing else takes that much by oem. why do they have those 707 landing gear lights that lit?

I got to thinking..if I am in a correct splice, but now the feed is not big enough (I have signs of old ignition in my new ignition at 2500rpm..where it needs the most). I am going to take the plug apart getting fed, and swap the plugins. In theory this should still leave lights alone, as I am not on that wire anymore.. yet give the cdi box the bigger juice I already measured, and ran to 7500 rpm faultlessly. the no odors in rich condition (cold start, or fat accel pump) was priceless. I will not be giving up this quest. Seems easy now with trial end error behind me. I feel for those that have no beginning or end in the spaghetti under the dash. The map even by oem can't even dictate where the bigger amps are going to go, and if they did..they don't know what will interfere with what when one needs to tap it. Some manufactures are natural pros at reading users minds about the future of stuff getting plugged in. I won't confess my favorite.

I am lucky with this old ricer. Adding ignition is a big deal...it sure as hell was my least favorite. I procrastinated a needed cdi box for years.

[Barry Donovan]

final for ignition

checking things out for a finale...
the route has to be where its at, I simply removed diode from ignition box postitive..something I did on my own, wanting a filter. nothing to notice. diode did get warm, so it was doing something. Taking box apart, had the same looking diodes inside, more than one. I wonder what prehistoric ignition box I was thinking of to diode the power line to box.

to gain a power source I want would need a hefty alternator.

the wiring turned out to be on a fuse that says LH TAIL..and has nothing to do with either. That is as lively as I can get it and not interfere with ANY other electrical function...so I gave it a twenty amper to not only remember where my fuel pump, mag packup and ign box is sucking, but give it a little more. I would have to kill headlight circuit entirely to get ignition where I want it (this does have a nice run with big power). I did chop off quite a few feet of the oem path for all 3..and a "fuel pump control box" that does nothing useful, and whatever circuit the original mag pickup was on had two 12v+ feeding the pickup...just another problem solved.

the mag pickup and ign box to be sharing a source is something I found in accels diagrams for a gm vehicle. that is clever..as that stuff needs to time in starting with electrical.

the cold start is a bam instead of pussyfooting around like it used to. This strangely stays the exact same any time of year. I was reading dieselgeeks reply about timing and very hot weather..it is the truth. Does not need to move anymore than original setting that kept engine happy for given fuel..all year round, even maine into 20s below F.

I am learning too.

I would laugh if the x-flare aimed at earth in the space weather toay is yet another trick..not getting far with my setup, but is an after thought.

next is finding a heat source for fuel line. the coolant is tempting at 180-200F..and never anymore.

[Barry Donovan]

hot update

the coming days are the peak of the year here. Three 90 somethings in a row is a wow factor.

the ionization game to bring cool air into ducts worked exactly as a nerd predicted. the air is colder than the outside. i love driving around. A boxer is supposed to be a grand champion there anyway, front mount or back..can't forget the 914 un the middle.

I was headed for discouraged, as an odor towards warm up was almost smellable.. and thought, I added nothing to this ignition. It occured to me capacitors don't change right way. I gave it just a few miles, a shutdown for awhile...where the old runtime used to smother me in a fake odor of fuel (hollow strange). Today it did not do that. The ignition box is going to back to warm/hot at runtime, and the little duct right below it responds like an einstein intended. draws cold air right into the cabin. The cough seems to be nil, but know not to romp on it fast just yet. it would have to battle an incomplete puddle possibly. it is a very powerful spark. just right, nothing racer about it. Between the igntion coming around to its final spot, without diode a little more juice is speeding the change up nice..the new resistor for tach will be here soon, and I'll put the hot one back to heating fuel line. With just one or the other, the resistor and oem ignition, or the CDI ignition without resistor, it does good. Adding both will be the icing on the cake.

drop ceiling liner for the thin shiny heat foil, and I am certain to like this no matter what outside is doing. the glass is so tiny...hardly a fish bowl even as a wagon.

"LH TAIL" on the fuse label. in previous post this is where I put the pump, mag pickup and cdi box. the only hefty wire available that did not interfere with anything when running. I have since concluded that label on the box means an area of the car. a physics ID. Not in use apparently. It may be far fetched for an explanation..but seems to make a whole lot of sense. Afuse where nothing was happening. The car is pretty much dead simple. no extras at all. There is a whole lot of fuses for some reason. I popped open the hatch and could smell the 3m caulking I put on the weld seams on driver side inner wheel well two years ago. Very troublesome area. the lower quarters are 3.5mm laminated steel. the weld went on for 3 years just to make a true hardness. The car is finally getting a finale...like a living entity. opening the door you know its ready. you know what I mean? older people would. Cars used to sit dead as logs. since injection, all that went away. I never did learn how the right rear stayed so much stronger than the left...this may have answered it for me. the right rear has an active fuel pump, and the fuel gauge for tank is favored on right side. the left rear is dead as could be..where most of the steel had problems. like an in motion of grounding instead of being a filled electrical type outward. invisible to explain.

I know what i mean. hard to explain. I won't be forgetting it though, learning in my own way. I do know how to fill up a simple carbed electrical. I would even try it ground up, bare empty box.

[Barry Donovan]

the fun facts

I guess I get into some nerdy boring stuff in the posts.
there is some fun gained.
with a rev limiter, a tach is only a special item. one can figure speeds with the ignition.

To my surprise, I just realized I buried third into rev limit. Forgot to check the gear calc.

it starts at 7500 , even though set for 8000. that means no more gain after 7500.

so, with two gears to go, the 90hp is at 103mph.

I do realize this is self incriminating..but there is no hard evidence to go with my crazy claim.

I ponder just 3psi on the high compression...130s at loring. the gears are tall enough to call it a touring wagon. based on foot pounds, the four banger sounds in video don't do the boxer justice. I still get tricked by beetles on the net, to hear them go down a quarter, and see 10 point something seconds as an official time (amazing contrast). this sube is just like that..but has a bit of scream, and the classic boxer torque. one will have to put the pieces of facts together themselves with some imagination.

I want what I gained to go with a sale of relaity. A track time may be useless being so tall.

[Barry Donovan]

new carb resistor



photo shows parellel setup

browsing around seeing what is out there to simply place next to a straight section of steel fuel line near the carb to act as a heater. the 56 ohm resistor was nice, it did get warm..but I want to drop volts even further (disperse more watts) and increase heat. sure enough, found this fancy one with accurate numbers written at the 12v setup and watts dispersed (compare to a lightbulb). the one above is stand alone.

just one resistor is:

@14v, 98 watts dispersed as heat (7amps). Even at half that more heat than I have now. This will also keep the ground side , where I screw it to top of carb, to a lower volt.

I was messing with fuel pump to find an always on source with key, and was playing with throttle when there was no pump during runtime. the hesitation almost stopped somewhere between full float bowl and empty. Rather than try and find this exact sweet spot of weight in the bowl, as maine changes from 28 below to 90s above..this heater defies all that, and moves the goops that build up in a cold carb as well. Not to mention the ground side is screwed to top of carb, further synching a mystery, like a gadget on a feedback setup...only much simpler.
with an igntion big enough to be audbile, like amobile home furnace...
this should get what I want.