attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

awesome fuel filter

finally.


found this at mercedessource.com . kent bergsma wanted a fue; filter for his mercedes like I do for anything. Screen mesh, cleanable. the 5/16ths version can get a coupler to bolt right up to the rochestor fuel inlet. No a/n runaround stuff needed.

pricy, but the pro filter I am using is a runt for most of the price of this stainless smesh version..which I have been hunting down for a long time.

todays saga is an exhaust seated and an alternator that sprung to itself. Triggers charge light, makes a noise..almost like a supercharger. shut off key for a minute, back on, and no charge light..overdid the little buggy to a static snap, charge light trigger is a fake. Just another supercharger noise coming from under the hood of the old sube.. this means it is willing to regulate what is needed, but got hot to the uprising of left side header finally doing its job. this is a much more than once event for me and this one. my loyale did it often. A long seating process once taking out the engine, or manifolds, wiring, etc. I did all those things to trigger an eventual event dialing in. the difference this time is a giant exhaust, a real fan. the next start its like it had to take out its old memory and go with the new...all while not even being a computer. Solid state einstein. With this change is an even larger runtime.

this reminds me to get back to the other alternator rebuild. the one in it now is quite a worker..I ponder just a oily finger on the stator or rotor this past summer sending a vibration as it warms up. Quick static snap of new work on the clean spot finding a way to ground. It always wins. last night had below freezing for six hours. most likely its biggest cooldown yet. As cryogenics works aluminum, it shed something inside the case unknown to human eyes...blows it out eventually. I like this time of year for this engine and parts..it is like a sterilizer. tells me what the summer did. The welding by muffler this summer double layered the chassis where it used to get warm..I bet it found another place to send 60 hertz, made itself too big for a short time..steel dialing in, and aluminum shrinking..makes a potent runtime.

this engine is proving to be a very nice one. Have not heard any better for an ea82.

edit2:
further examining revealed the belts got too tight. the double belted engine, have to be careful there. the little fan brings alot more heat across to the cold side of radiator..physic of the fan..this some how tightened belts. probably a backwards rubbber, like heatshrink to wires.
been there with this, just going to loosen and drive.
a really unique runtime this one. sounds like exhaust is airing at all times, like a turbo that never stops spooling .. at just 700 rpm. the decibal exit is that of a v8 with flowmasters..that never ending sound of flow, but the boxer erases cylinder noise.
I can get that boxer cylindrical noise at 1500, only due to less than perfect idle to part throttle bridge...else it would be rather turbine like at all times.

I'll have some fun trip someplace after inspection and registration stuff out of the way. maybe get a vid or two

[Barry Donovan]

popping and spitting

got alternator to get out of sprung state by idling with a tight belt..
now back to popping and spitting, choosing not to use intake heater.

checking oil has it down 1/2 where it stays. I have only added a half since may. about 2 k miles on it now.

some interesting tidbis:

I bought the engine from the floor of a horse trailer, me and another guy threw it into the back of the wagon, then it sat behind my dads garage, outside, for nearly 5 years..

it picked up exactly where subarus design leaves them..tainted by battery at their best. This one had no egr anomolies. That is why I went ahead with it..taking off oil pan and valve covers verified what I was hoping to find.

so, carb is not an issue, just need to keep some high octane and drive. I'll let the controller get the intake heater in much more gentle intervals, I tend to keep it on too long...sprung at alternator.

all is normal as of now.

exhaust is obnoxious getting through these things. intake heater amust do..
still waiting on mail delivery.

[Barry Donovan]

thermal control = junk

if this did work with the menu it is supposed to have (stuck on a dainty cooling switch) I still would not use this. right now I got the probe hanging out the window. It is 4.4 C...someday I'll figure what temperature that is. for now...kinda neat watching temps drop. quick function anyway, for readouts.



got this today.. like a mcdonalds cheeseburger, the photo is bigger than the beef…and as always (I mean 100% of the time) this product from china does not do as advertised. How did they sell 850? wow. the same trick that crushed america. that’s how.

the seller got back to me offering 2 usd in gibberish to reverse the negative feedback.. **** off.

making this work will be easier than I first got upset over...possbily, this is just first ideas.
where I found it can only handle 200ma, (also unlike the ad stated). I can use this to trigger a normally closed relay to reverse the function. it is in a cooling mode, advertised to do both heating and cooling..and it does not.

so if I set temp to 10c it will stay on until that thermal is reached...it kicks on if probe reads above 10c. how to reverse it?

...simply keep power on to heater, wired through a normally closed relay , (a fatter power source being easier on another relay, I needed 8 amps)

this means it turns off at 10c instead of on when power is added to the normally closed. This in turn saves the dainty controller from the big amps of intake heater.

in a sense, if anyhting is above ten C, the normally closed will be kicked off. anyhting below, the controller is doing nothing, and the normally closed relay goes about feeding intake heater by staying powered on.

[Barry Donovan]

thermal controller != junk

I installed this anyway, have it to plug in via cigarette lighter..am using it as a monitor. I have always been curious how the subes heating curve is at the intake above carb.

lo and behold, it does heat up... I found the catch I am trying to conquer is just after first starting..its got like a loop that needs broken, all air related...else it don't get out of the problem.

I watched temperature drop to colder than outside, a few seconds after starting heater, watching the temperature unfold in realtime. 2/10 of a C colder...
then it slowly neutralled, then slowly climbed...then the cold smoke out the exhuast as it started climbing. That was the simple battle. Done in 15-20 seconds. I then shut heater off after the 20 seconds to see what would happen..kept on climbing. Steel duct can own air thermal indeed.

with intake heater on a manual switch..probe is right after steel part of CAI ends inside the rubber part of duct hanging right in the air stream...

it only took maybe 15 seconds of intake heater in the on position, and then it kept climbing at a good pace. I spoke of this being like an upside down injection plenum..maybe its a cross between a diesel prechamber, and injection...to better define it. Hopeless if something did not happen. No heat, that compression never leaves..that temp drop revealed it. phenomena, stuck bomb maker.

interesting thing to decipher. no heat at all, the warm up is insanely a long time, and its all eyes on gauges as it warms up. Big relief figuring this out. Could not even break a dewpoint for moistures cars get at night. Caught up in its own cold loop..I would not have guessed it. Compresson into a straw as high vacuum.

so...intake heater will be doing alot less work than I thought...and the whole CAI is considered intake manifold, not just a tube above venturi.

will be automating with a normally closed relay, as mentioned in previous post.

of course, another note..the weather right now is hurricane on the way fog type stuff, but it is out of a 32F evening into the 60s. Tough stuff to break into normal air.

alot of reasons for intake heat. looking forward to cold. Today allowed me to figure the settings for automation.

15C seems the answer...it simply needs one burst of the heater, maybe 20 seconds..much shorter intvervals than thought previously, then the air knows what it has to do on its own.

strange find..the loop. the heater forces one big airstream, once broken.

I shut the car off once thermostat opened, the intake was still climbing at 32C (90F). Not sure where that goes to when a real runtime, driving around for an hour or so. I could only guess around 100-120 +/-.

the loop find, its own storm never ending..absoutely bizarre... and then how fragile it is to set a pace.

I am learning all the time.

edit:
evening, burnt city tree leaves and dewpoint already, 730 pm.
been 5 hours or more since running, found the temp at intake to be ten degrees warmer than the air. I am liking just turning one part of ignition on and leaving ACC on its own to play these games. the key switch and ign two different places.
the gadget will come in handy after all. A vacuum space has no comprehension without measuring..nothing to guess or feel.
as it is revealing, I have been wrong at all guesses. like right now, I'd try starting with a huge blast of intake heater, and gauge shows it needs nothing at 15.9 C (60f), even though outside air is a bit chilled at 50.

I am the one that sprung the alternator unnecessarily keeping heater on too long. Funny enough wahtver I did to it has a bigger amp giving away with less effort now. I did rebuild it, some weeks ago, maybe I gave it a burn in unintentionally...another function for 8 amp intake heater: burn in a new alternator.

a cool thing to catch in the future is leaky freon cars of the city, other cold mysterious suckings. the gauge will show them in realtime.

I printed out a wallet sized F to C chart, it is quite a goofy match up comparing the two curves..but anyway, that just came in handy.

[Barry Donovan]

thermal controller, final thoughts

I mentioned I had a loyale, I got it for free.
beyond a snse of runnable forever, the insides of the engine at 165 k was astounding..

thinking of deionizers, rocket science, and a boxer that does not know up and down, and engine that never floats a valve spring...how did they do that?

I may not even need the heater very often, with that thermal probe in the airstream. I cannot say why..but a scientist could explain I am sure.

the odors of nature are now replaced with the odor of the controller as it powered up the first time. A stainless steel ending is the probe...

whta kinda power is that anyway...

a bit of vacuum, not much, environment away from the world, unlike old school carbs as most know them.

this should be ready to go a longer distance than the little einstein singular injected version I not only grew to like..but deciphered in ways still not in words.

this is before subaru went insane of course...

big minds tend to do that...never enough defense goes with something that so blatantly slaps a dumb standard in historys face.

fear of the future no doubt. That is an enemy indeed.

what may be my biggest lesson in this...
I proved to myself, fuel does not like interruptions.
I wanted a carb surrounded by the gadgets that keep the ever so delicate injection concepts robust. A rock with a needle and seat...just add the gadgets injection play with to surround it.

I was not wronged. I may keep it as a life long mission..

bigger engine the next go, as 3 main boxers are the only little ones I respect...and where they are not exotic, they got beat to death.

both those ingredients make a rare gem.

onto future
the normally closed relay, tidy up the little gadget controller..found a good spot already.
the fuel filter at kent bergsmas website
..and there is always something I am forgetting.

oh. holley trochoidal fuel pump..big bucks, as of now a daydream.
I have to start and stall just once cold, gentle fuel..it is ok, oldschool remnants are good to hear , I am that age I guess...but, it could be better.
better all the time.

earning the sound of a perfect draft..even jets compression stalled.

on a spooky note, from september 18th post..

first of the stronger fronts, autumn like coming through. 30mph winds, and higher gusts. Birds here. they hang out in the beginning spinning in circles. when they disappear, I pay attention to the forecast.

coincidentally, a video popped up on my subscriptions titled:
Sie laufen mit Wind (They run with the wind)

stuck in my head like a tv commercial. odd thing. my brain.

it is actually metaphoric for a boxer to me. no other engine needs to slow a natural draft. most fight like hell to feed it.

it was the birds. they know things...
I can't say as I am native..I do ctach onto the darndest things sometimes. maybe living in the woods for a time does that.

a black and white 12 inch tv, some johnny carson coming through the antannae after smacking the old tube.

else silence. the whole day...
quite an experience. Some calls to the wild are sprites of city slicked suicide.

two bald eagles flying above my place. full white heads and tails. It is 5 years for me here in this bangor place.. I have never seen anything like it.

eagles don't like cities...unless there is something worse in the quiet place they stay kings and queens.

a clean south wind is the smell of life no doubt. I am a bit animal there too. they must be taking advantange of the tease. ..because it is a hollow wind.

when weather is life and death, time ahead is a getaway.

don't ever accuse a bald eagle of being in a hollow wind.

[Barry Donovan]

thermal control

knowing I want 15C..
the alternator gauge tells me when heat is working...

here is the $2.99 switch with a 5 second delay, set at 15C NC..it opens at 15C.

I also found a stc 1000, still in celsius..I don't need to look at it. itis an option however..
it does have heating and cooling..but I only need heating.

..and I somehow killed the gadget I just bought already. it can go to hell like the seller.

back to simple, and don't need to look at it anyway.

intake air is like any other car, CAI, up off engine...120 on a worst day. I don't need to monitor.

[Barry Donovan]

faster start

a bit sick, trying to keep busy..
I did think of something. As car starts it almost stalls, then catches on. I blamed alternator..but could it have been a synch problem? below photo is what I did. ..it does start faster, switches feel tougher, and the almost stall routine is almost null on first burst on cold start.


peekaboo, the little accel is hiding under the dash. nice fit. I never did get a photo that I recall.
thinking of other chores..testing a relay. I got to wondering why I fed the double pole switch twice when I could loop over just one feed to the other bank. this way, more bat wire goes to key switch and starter/acc..and it synchs why I wanted ign/run all on one switch...on one powers ource. why I went for two, not sure.
sure enough it worked, key switch feels tougher now, proving there was a slob of an amp robbing starter. The switch I installed is also a tougher feel to switch it on. Not an error mind you..is just the way this little car is. Then rethinking a relays purpose..one power source, closing a circuit. looping back, as switch is turned on, the loop gets fed to other pole, then feeds other bank. A tricky relay..but a relay of sorts. The synch works the same purpose. now all on the same 30 amp fuse coming from the same spot that the cars power bolts to the battery. Can’t get any smarter.

maybe it was fusible links.. ?
old school version. the new switch is saved by a 30 amp outdoor fuse, right next to fusible link box. this gets oem run wire, and my ignition. I resembled how the car gets fed, even the spot on the battery cable where wires are bolted. Only two of them for this little car. one wire did it all once upon a time...this car never had a computer of any kind.

I still am perturbed by thermal control. maybe another digital version sure to work is a goo didea. I like the deionization effect of thermal probe in the duct.

anyway here is schematic

my bat has 30 amp waterproof ten gauge fuse holder, which is proving to be better than the old school fusible links. All else is oem, and having an easy life with the above being wired separately. The purpose is to synchronize, as well as be safe with accel 300s 8 amp draw potential.
starter /acc still use key. untouched. I did mention there is no hacks or splicing of factory wires..this allplugs right back in to oem with one wire swap, (the "run" wire).

no test to 8000 rpm loaded with lights on yet..but may give it a ten gauge full lead to switch ("my bat" in photo), but the 14awg machine wire seems to be quite a good carry. does not even get warmed.

edit
with electrical noise calmed down, way down..my exhaust sounds likeit has 4 pounds of mig holding the symmetry of it together after all.. its even more porsche with a straight six boxer four than ever (I am sure that makes sense to somebody)

concluding:
run wire has tach power
oil pressure sending unit,
temp gauge
carb choke
intake heater

my wire had accel 300, and distributor.

the block shares the same grounds to chassis..two power sources, equals crazy hertz. Little sensitive engine..
the diagram shows how I made it one source, and got it out of the old style fuse links.
starter stays separate completely, no fighting with it.
this is going very nice...slow on my own learn, but getting there.
another big thing to notice was the fan..that little bugger does indeed work some air, I can hear it now.
a simple note is the ACC for stuff we use, radio, etc..that all needs quiet. now it is,more than factory could get either.

[Barry Donovan]

the big storm

in early 90s, I had a chevelle...250 I-6.
the weather was astounding, not nealy as the past 5 years, but amazing.

that rochestor was a rock, just like the size of 1974 chevelles.

gaining a tin can with ten gears and full locked up diffs in four low.. it was youthful motivation to put together what I have now.

somethingmy chevelle did not do was ice storms, nor near 30 below.

an 87 subaru did. my first after 15 or so vehicles. I have had to refer to that several times..no fan, or power steering, this one needed a little one to keep going.

all I have done..is for this storm coming.



a bent chimney with an origin beyond my lifetime keeps my eyes open, hidden clues all over new england...

spotting just a 15 year old vehicle is amazing...quarter century?

crazy as a boxer engine.

I won't be driving much in the storm coming, but do feel reassured with american parts and the little giant subaru never built again. lack of effeminate is alright by me...but I don't get the vote in manufacturing, as alot of men don't.

I a glad this place does not hound me like a brand name driven forum to go look at something new.
when I am done with this buggy, I am going for something possibly even older..and even tougher.
of course back to all american..

this sube is the last of my dive into dynamics of bizarre contrast.
a perfect storm not seen much of...

[Barry Donovan]

resistor on intake heater

finding a way to possibly keep the intake heater on longer, if it has to, I don't want to burn something..thinking of a way to reduce power to it...keep it foolproof.


the intake heater, it heats wires unless circuit is all fat. only needing the heater on for 15 seconds, to really get it going..
attempting resistor math from the web is like asking a lefty to be a righty. When I finally get the retard out of resistor math, I will right it in american english. did I say right?
anyway..above is 1000 ohm 25w resistor on a 12v dc power source simulating the cigarette lighter in the car. the lighht cannot veer off 3v or it will blow. how does the resistor know to resist exactly?
that is yet another mystery morons can’t put into words. Where my intake heater is 200w, 8 amp hungry…it takes all I give it. I can only guess this resistor may get warm to try it..but if it simulates 1/3 power, that will make me happy. 2.67 amp is still quite a draw…but doable. No need to spring my little asian alternator into a dildo again.

after the 4 day storm, I will emerge to try this out. for now it is on a switch, I count some 15 seconds or so, and shut it off.

edit:
decided to hook this up on the switch end, inside the car. I thought nothing was hppening, no indicator on the alt gauge to a draw..popped the hood, was feeling around intake heater for warmth.. I got it so insulated, I can't tell. Goal being 60F..it will be cool to the touch anyway.
maybe a minute outside, went back into car, temp gauge was already at the quarter mark. it is indeed working. I do not understand ionization, but do know to follow my nose if something is deionizing, which is a goal of this heater...the other indicator this is working is the smell of the stuff I have surrounding the heater wires. A sterilizer...exactly mimicking how that loyale could run forever.



wanting to tidy up the resistor, and a switch..and alight with yet another resistor to let me know this thing is up and running, all intoa safe place. the epiphany to use the little box was just right.. I decided to get some of my 13 bucks back I gave to china, and used the box for the switch and resistor for the intake heater. I may chunk the old circuit board for voltage regulation of the little lights they had...I have birnt enough to not beintimidated by the boards..entire chunks can go missing if you can follow the paths they made. just need a good eye. the purple dark screen illuminates dimmed and pleasant...look forward to getting alight in there. I also found amini thermal reader that may be able to fit into the translucent screen..options are there. For now, got this going to make neat and keep the dangling connection I had to get intake heater going in a safe place.

chore done.

finding a volt reading will be soon, as of now, that resistor seems to drop 66%, leaving the heater at 1/3 power. good for 200+ degrees at full 12 volt, that may be a lucky thing I got going..so I treated it good. keep it off during a start, switch on afterward. preoccupying 3.3 volts has an intense reasoning nowadays..computers everywhere. that may explain the instant calm after hooking this up.

this is no doubt boxerish madness..the intake needs to be offset from the world, but without its own engines recycle for heat.
this was actually to mimick a loyale maf that got hot, but it was a small source of heat, so it was pretentious...and extremely air restrictive. this heater was so big I had to reduce it. the big resistor was the trick.

[Barry Donovan]

intake heater switch continued

I wanted use of relay to hook up other gadgets related to same circuit..possibly a thermometer, or little light indicating relay is working...which means circuit closed and working. Setting up as stand alone, invaded with light bulb as a test.. disrupted resistor. can't have that..that is where relay comes in.

the future thermal switch stops circuit, shuts off light (as of right now a 194 and its socket fits in the box) and have a choice to do something to tell me besides noise. maybe a loop back from little side of relay, to open it, shut off light..when switch comes back thermally, power to little side of relay closes the big loop, light back on..away it goes. Sounds more complicated than it is not. below in photo is sharing one live for the relay and power out to heater. for now, the audible click test is good, installed this. I plucked the relay off the thermal controller that died.


Shared power for relay out to heater, switched, room for 1k ohm resistor. box goes together nice. Enough room for something else, like th elight bulb. Relays help charge up a circuit some, and this one proved to do so. Even though shared power, there is always alittle side of relay, and one that gets charged up a bit by the coil.

I felt 3volt was too weak out the other end of resistor..it is now at 5volt going through relay. I also am using cigarette lighter for now to see if I like the circuit, the hard wire later. the key shuts off lighter when trying to start, is the other reason for choosing that plug. Felt heater get warmed realistically…it was headed for 200F before resisting!

this is a physics trick more than for heater…have met the goal. gentle coil of heater on duct. I also have power from in the car to out, heater grounding to chassis strut tower. this is now down to one wire coming out of loom into engine bay. small side of relay uses full circuit of cig lighter, grounds elsewhere.

more to come on this.. its kinda fun.


an interesting tidbit of science..an epiphany from this video.

As vacuum needs ten meters to annhilate to no molecules for a fresh feed to the carb venturi on angine with a four cyl type overlap (engineers tend to go for perfection there on four cyls becauseof no overlap, and that made drafts freakishly perfect sometimes, add a self balance in the equation, and you have the "madness" I have here)..
the reason for the heat, became obvious. not so much the power of heat, but the hertz of forcing a different environment helping the vacuum above carb with electricity wound in a coil around the steel tube.I am simulating the ten meters in 4 feet for a sensitive tiny self balanced engine.

As for the relay run by a switch, all while sharing the same power for the end result..it is thoughts of a thermal switch inside the vacuum, inside the duct, to gaina proper reading.external is too insulated and would be guessing games. A relay separates the big amp suck through the coil that functions the relay, leaving what I establish as nothing more than itself..andnot becoming the vacuum for electrical draw.

kinda cool huh?
a bit nerdy, and learned it trial and error.

I get mad about counterbalancers..but they instill imperfection to avoid scary science.

I know they do not need to fear self balance today. this thread is an example...a 3 main boxer has always been an example. believe it or not, the corvair can go there too, even safer..as the 120 fires are the man made overlap. ..not so much for power , but the imperfection to easily keep control. A 180 fire is hell to play with, least resource use as a result. Exponential loss as the amount of cylinders increases is also a perfect stab 3 main boxers have always given to the facts.

not many engines go there. in fact, there is no other otto.

[Barry Donovan]

switch final


found a resistor big enough to allow little 3-5 volt light to work. Just using one resistor got too warm, then found another one to series it…back to cool. Seems it’s a 250 ohm small watt, with a 56ohm bigger watt. plenty to get job done.

This tells me when this is switched on or off. light goes out to switch. verifying relay is easy. it clicks. light is subtle..seems bulb and transparent lense is both purple. after getting back in the car, it showed me an anomoly with cig lighter plug in. I jiggled around appropriately to get stable connect.

this setup also tells me low volt condition, sharp shorts..the light reveals it. the big side of relay gets the most power, priority stacked, big wire. another purpose for light was to keep the relay switcher even less powered, as that is the genius of relays..use less power on one side, get a big power going..simulate all one circuit.

on this freakish warm day, I did feel the heat getting a finger under insulation..very gentle. the steel is quite cold , so the battler is plenty fed. 3 something volt, amps unknown..definitely gentle.
25w 1000ohm on 12v circuit..yeah. I don't need the volt meter to tell me its quite squashed to gentle. if you are familiar with the loyale hot maf..it is more gentle than that oem setup..but much bigger. Exactly part of the plan. This fixed part throttle blippers. Coughing long gone done before heater..but there was still something around 1500 rpm into 2k. This heater finalized it. This setup as carb used to get a blast from its own exhaust..absolutely insane. this version is much smarter and stable, no recycle, clean. Being gentle..it is going to go a long time.

[Barry Donovan]

switch final...final

the final for the final...should be the final.
added a diode due to sharing power for relay, power running through once relay is closed. sure enough, got a 13.46 reading to ground, resistor is getting fed..and the final test was installed in car of course. the intake heater is working..as much umph as it is going to get- resisted hugely witha diode to keep it going. An anomoly with this old tin can was keeping juice in the engine bay..the choke at carb revealed it years ago...it would literally avoid getting juiced..until dioded. they start getting tough at 15 or so years. Now going on 27 with my version of extreme two part urethane smothering everything with a baking job... diodes are my friend. Not to mention, the engine is like new hampshire granite.
even when chassis' are good and young and squichy and tricking the world pretending to be tough..., near airstream static is a battle. another reason for diodes..this one here had the double problem. petrified chassis and normal battle of air anyway.


the diode symbol in red is where I put it.

a cool thing to do now, is wait like a diesel. key on is still nothing but ACC , clock, radio, my intake heater..so it can warm up like a glow plug. From this 66F hurricane tropic...25F forecast for sunday. Glad that extra thing I built is there.

big cfm, 1781cc...here comes winter.

edit:
I did mention, this one goes days without going anywhere..
just ran to store, it instantly occured to me the dewpoint is thicker than the norm as maine heads back to normal temps. understandable with the biggest storm ever just leaving. I'd rather start on a cold january 28 below than this wet cold slop gathering on all metals..
but..that is part of where intake heater thoughts came from. by the time I left store car was near operating temp at the gauge..that just means air fuel is perfect, the rest of it, such as hot heater, takes longer than the engine. that is normal..but still better.. I did get defrost within 30 seconds, the other rear still windows have to wait.

popped hood to check on the temp of intake heater, as resistor is quite large in reducing power to it..can't feel the heat, the trick part of this is working. Guessing it just wanted a contrast of outdoor to inside, to get it going was indeed correct..not about heat at all. Engines love cold air intakes...this one simply had an anomoly, boxer stuff.

and on a silly note, am digging that little purple light down where this sube is dark at the console. just right. I also hate radio lights, I leave the delco in the dark except for normal sights. this little light shines upward and not at me, to get the radio subtle.
a couple of birds with one stone.

I can even get at some change heading towards toll booths or whatever..don't need to thrash around with interior lighting.

[Barry Donovan]

blue magic quiksteel extreme

not to enthused right now, but I'll get over it. quitting smoking cigarettes..
they use this stuff to fix fire kilns...yep. old subarus.


went for inspection again today. I have concluded the guy is an asshole. center street garage. my first intuition of that place with the chimney in line with second story windows and people living in them..”somebody is going to die from that place”. I know what chemicals come out of cars..just suck it into a furnace and REALLY get something interesting going. I shrug it off, because maine and environment are so hand in hand…ok, ignoring the dump explosions and arsenic water.

sure enough, the place I thought was most in danger, is now condemned..a dead body hauled off not long ago. I am not sure what opinions this guy has on my integrity..but something sure is backwoods maine about his approach to me and my car. Don’t mind my rant..an older crew chief building a tin can alot stronger than not knowable. key words I guess..old school arctic maine rock head does not know dynamics of evolution. Not knowable to a rockhead I should say. Funny enough, my tin can is the engine with the rockheads. Can’t tell a rockhead that if it means still driving an original build going on 27. This dumbass went on to tell me I could register it as antique this year. I could have done it last year..maine registration is not manufacture dates. To call a car an 87, means nothing..the 12/86 stamped on the door does. it is one month shy of a full 26 years old. I don’t want this car as antique being 300% stronger (a conservative guess).

anyway, the header pretentious leaks drives me nuts too..15 years. no cure. reminds me of a solid lift 327/283. only now with hydraulic, to humor civilized engine runtime. I did my part. the rest is history demanding respect. little pointy cams, big cams, tiny carbs, bigger injection, 2wd, 4wd, 5 speed and ten..all not sealable for a whole year. I have had them all. I had two down to seasonal leaks, then it goes away.

I still wonder what it is like to seal the header, so I humored this quik steel, to go around the perfect fit sleeve already into the head, welded all the way around the flange, fitted with a perfect fit turbo gasket, and finally relieved into a true american two inch pipe…why is it leaking at the 1 percent of a whole flange? old boxer mystery.

I will try one more time at this garage, got this seal in and waiting the four hours, then by instruction, let it have heat again...next is the annual state police call. I will be driving without sticker until then. they can do a roadside if they want. I negated the garage. I know where strength went local..the inspectors mentality I encountered yet again today…they must have killed everything with their opinions. opinionated, unjustified..did not even pay attention to the fact of this very model…

I bet if it was a gmc, I could pull right in with 4 different wheels two different headers, lopsided, bent welded frame and drive away with a sticker. I’d say this was my last ricer, as it has been my only..but if I happen on another old boxer, I can’t say as an annual torture by inspectors is going to stop me.

on a cool note, as this is a very sealed up system already. I heard this big bellow and whining, looked over at the mr.beechy eclipse looking buggy, sounded like it had carbs. I followed suit and realized the little sube is even bigger. Here comes the cold mr. auto inspector..a real fire does not back down to a whisper in it. This one is only going to get bigger until the real cold sets in.

here is to modern goops beyond real welding..I was thinking of other places I went for something different. The silicone claiming petroleum resistant is my carb gasket. for the first time in my whole memory, a silicone that actually worked as a surrounding to my gasket. HDPE from coffee jugs.. that is my other carb gaskets, and a thermostat gasket. I am glad I stuck with an impossible machine. there is hope beyond the normal mechanical chores today. not to mention electronics. I did not mention the accel 300+ knows when to start engine retarded..this means external electrical field is around the car someplace. that is a smart thing about sensitive electrons protecting themself.

onto another day..

edit
got pulled over for loud muffler. Asked me if I had anything to drink. I took that as kinda funny.

no ticket.
am going to remove header wrap , drop header again..
the steel stuff did not work, but ceramic goop does good.

if this is a battle with a garage, the state police is always an option. the cop explained something about decibals louder than factory.
that is not quite right is it. no muffler aftermarket could even sell...and 50 state dot legal is not legit...and fiurthermore, this car does not have a normal muffler hole like american. the oem melts.
I could rummage through walkers book again at a certain parts store..but this muffler is deserving. take the big shot of heat away, it should be alright.
I told him the brand name, it is not illegal.
I caught onto header wrap after installing, makes alot more noise. The sube must use the wind at the perdendicular out of head to cool, and that is silencer...so off with header wrap. got enough fire now anyway.

something still not happy in the fuel, but looking at dates of this compilation, it is less than 500 miles, and about 6 months. I must say that is doing very good.

now to get away from rockheads and thier 5 year old cars, as they inspect others with authority. I need another garage. A welders place...
if it needs a decibal meter, I would be in disbelief. no counterbalance rumble at all.

my craiglist ad in automotive services section:

I have a 1987 ten geared subaru wagon, It is 3 inches wider FROM the factory...
15 inch french wheels, nicely done. 38 pounds of mig wire...it looks like an old subaru, but oh no...it is alot more to it than that.
a unique transmission, unibody sturcture, engine by nature is as fiesty as an old porsche, and I have over 4 grand and several huindred hours in labor..to be failing inspections everywhere I go for a header desing, by factory, that ticks like an old beetle.
I sleeved it, made an equal header out of t304, mandrel bent stuff...not cheap at all. it got even bigger , and it deserves it for sure.

I need a garage that does inspections, maybe works beetles/porche etc..someone who has got thier head out of the mechanical gutter, I have taken this to state police more thanonce, after attempting local inspections..they simply try to resolve with the garages I have gone to in past years.

The nonsense has got to stop. I could go antique registration, but the integrity is way too good for that..I will be driving this special purpose compilation.

sorry for crying on craigslist, This build got serious starting in 2007...someone put the ricer opinions away and inspect my 3000 pound tin can ten geared subaru with a chevy carburator.

no need to bother the state police is there?

I would love to have a regular garage. I am in bangor area..and I am not a kid hacking at something for fuel mileage, this was driven just 3k miles in 2012..it is my idea of exotic little boxer...and it is defended by law if need be.

the fuel cure..
7 gallons 91 octane..citgo version.
blippy problem done. if it were not for that and very few other stations..another engine out of the bay sooner than later. in back of a mustang, big old pipes.. makes the sube noise a pipsqueak. it is quite bizarre to be targetted.

back to an outright ticking beetle noise attemping the quik steel.. that stuff failed. Will be grinding off whatever is left, and putting the lego snap of sleeved flange in to its depth. As good as this one gets...aside from 93 octae..can't find much of that until many miles south of here.

Accepting the facts, and not many understanding..it is sad. I have only crossed lines of fuel change in one other car, a monte carlo..custom built. ratty looking. I am still with ugly, but another world, fuel is fuel..it is educative to learn limits.

[Barry Donovan]

removed header wrap

dropped header, removed wrap..
today getting underneath I found one nut on one stud not even halfway to tightened..and it was still sealed.

I said I built it.

this one is going to state police station, as laws read, one just has to look for the yellow sign announcing inspections...and pull right up.

the garage next door, I got a bad vibe about thier destination.

anyway, the bigger accel fire, wrap removed started right up..some water from car wash came out of top of water pump. I guess I found earth ground with front part of header wrap off. the beetle tick noises, or old air cooled porsche, the little sixxes..that noise one cannot determine leak or electric storm.

I have now verified it is indeed an electric storm. the header is nothing shy of perfection.
looking over turbo gaskets, no carbon. no leak. very nice seat. the quik steel stuff all but fell off, quick scrape of flange got some little last bits of it, right back together..pops on like a lego into the head.

if the state police don't understand, I guess i go to the governor, and then when he sits there in maine arctic dumbfounded rockhead in confusion.... off to the president of the united states for a maine state inspection sticker.

not all that uptight over a sticker, I am in a realm where there is indeed a hole in the way cars register.
beyond 25, and wanting to go beyond the 5k mile limit with rules to follow of antique status.

I have been ther ebefore, it starts around 20 years. As if most states did not figure out, beyond 15...alot of factory stuff is gone from owners own wisdom, keeping the machine going.

knowing this won't be down for long without the sticker..monday is going to bering me acoss the river to another garage that knew the bimetal subae errors at the heads. I think that guy had me put in a new gasket, if it still ticked or hissed, just let it go. Sure enough, ot came back on its own.
this one is certainly setup to do that. Sleeved into head should not take long.

was thinking of other things I wanted to do with this. As it is a very truck like tranny with a stage 1...I do not even think of some of the launches I see from redlights..heck, a crown vic stock leaps right out there.
a 2 speed would hurl this into the tens, as it sits...right now.
In this way, I could hide the other half of this little gem..the ten speed tranny that does not match odometer miles. (very tight smooth and cool).

I found one powerglide..last year (?) 2 speed, ready to go..50 bucks. there was millions of them.
this coming year just might get that as a final bigger project for this.

a cool thing I caught onto, the air duct drilled out at the front, on 91 octane, it literally can move the car a little bit around 4k rpm. the little rochestor is a sucking.

[Barry Donovan]

first longer ride

I never did get the long ride in..still haven't. Went for a bangor to newport, very common thing I usd to do when making a change on a car that needed some travel.
there was april to rhode island.. then no trips anywahere, looking at registration, I barely got 3k miles in one year on this one. the new engine, exhaust collector, intake heater, exhaust gaskets, one new tire...and the controller for intake heat and the biggest change is a high pressure gas tank that st outside for 5 years.

I was starting to get mad at the hitching, not a full skip, just a dirty hitching. exhaust gasket refusing to be totally quiet...and it's all there, toughest version available. nothing more I can do. the seat into the head is a machinist extra...good thing I did that.

finally stomped on it to 6k rpm and there was the signs of normalcy. dammit.

this one needs at least 500 miles non stop. meanwhile, no sticker yet to go about the trip legally.

the cold and this place is a bomb for the fresh build tiny engine..cannot just burn in and seal new stuff by itself, needs help with a warm summer.

will be cruising around trying to remember real garages from the pink turtle neck wearing flower bearers with beards pretending to get dirty...

I would hate to bother state police again. I could guess I am a regular with a complaint about now...

I do end up with a sticker of course.
edit:

my place lost power again, twice today...
I simply remembered this buggy needed a highway run.

an even 100 miles. first longer run done..
header at driver side still a ticky ticking. not much, and the built exhaust is far from annoying. A bit of hitching, but all conquered aorund half throttle.. I need a guru to explain that. not sure if it is tank deoxidizing, not sure if lean, or curve of needle is lean on the right sized jet, or is it wrong? that is somethig in planned to be tinkered with already, was not sure how this one went without a highway trip. did good. more than 150 miles at 5-7 gallons. I rule out lean..but the curve might need something. a reworking of needle perhaps. pretty close to fantastic..should just leave it with setup being young for now.

checked engine bay out at gas station. zero oil consumption playing with modern speeds...and oil is cool. I may change resistor for intake heater to 500ohm, 25 watt. at 250 watt demand, that is around 50ohm result..anyway, this helps pcv get warmed, and that in turn warms oil.

seems 2900 rpm is 65..that is normal. Car is very smooth, even with the hardness of a ten geared truckster. I love it out there. I stayed behind a little car on the way home. Good call, a state trooper went sailing by. normally I am passing people at 3200 rpm, even on maine highway..always a fast one.

a difference with this one is a very very strong torque line, like diesel..but not much throttle below 3200. it is my favorite, but was not expecting that..beyond 3200 is the inspiration for a landspeed run. not at slow speed 3200, I mean in the wind around 65mph.. a magic trick begins.

I give the header a year..I know it is #2 cylinder. I retorqued heads to see where this engine was at. #2 took a good retorque, all else was good. The cylinder that stays the coldest, right behind water pump. Can't expect it all at once... Doing very good. watching odometer, around 50 miles in, becomes little locomotive, very stable. could climb to 100 something and stay there. 3500 is literally a backing off of floored throttle, and climbing. it is a mystery of a boxer...the reason for all the runting by oem standards. instead of working to suicide..it is working to be a bigger worker, to be a bigger worker, to be a bigger worker... exponential is the word. I of course went past it years ago.. the first time stripped a clutch...or was that the 13 inch wheel spinning inside a tire... a mythical thing it did. blowing a headgasket in the dark, thermites flying like fireworks, at 70mph.. then driving it home to be repaired and back up and running in 24 hours...just mythical.

and lastly, personal note.. the nw wind is going, the real cold wind. Did not know its was cold until the gas station. A surprise..as this model is not known for heated cabin.

tomorrow is another day..off to quibbling with one garage after another if need be. I go no further with this header...for some time to come.

it is ready, I said so.
onto potentiometer
100hm, 5w, 320 v..
I bet I only use a quarter of the full turn, but just guessing. I am going to give this a try, add a probe, adjust to 60F in the cold.

5 watt, 320v… = 133 watt, 12volt. I needed 200w, may add resistor, a little one. diodes help too. price and physical size is right for trial and error. this can fit right in the little box with switch and light bulb and relay ..and diode. It is all setup for this. does not hurt to try it.