attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

12V 12A RELAY Air Temperature Sensor Board Thermal Switch



found this on ebay. 20 delivered.

45c (113F) to 99C adjustable.

this will work the intake to a temperature..but it has to stay in engine bay, sensor is only 1 foot of wire to work…and a waterproof box would need to be made. another oddity is no amp detect. the electric blanket controller works on amp reading to heat a bimeteal switch. As nature goes, a car chassis takes in more amps at some times and rejects at others (ground side of chassis, weather) I like that function. the big amp draw needs it. just this evening, journey the rock group playing in the fog and rain at the water front. they shut down at eleven and tinnitus ears go crazy. talk about amps. Being up on the taller part of the city, it reacts to every concert. So does the car. I may not go thermal switch at all, but leave the other clever function as it is. If it wants to feed easy, it will stay on longer, amps with a less resistant to ground keep switch engaged. That really is clever. Remembering too, this heats base of engine through pcv hose in a hurry. The contrast of real cold to warm is always slow gains on normal engines..I can only go so fast with the heat.

It does not hurt to wander into new stuff. the thermal pwm stuff is all tiny for fan controllers on computers, but a giant 8 amper must exist sometime. I'd use that for several things. Even fuel..imagine 80F fuel at all times? I do.

So to use this one I found I will have to drop the heater feed to a lesser volt… will keep looking, this is as automated as I could find.

A confusing thing to the engineers apparently is levelling off a temp needed. A stable volt to heater feed like a see saw dialing in to calm.Start off at full 12v, work down to level of temp needed and keep it there with however much exact volt needed to never have to shut off and on off and on, at least work to a barely an off and on. saves energy.

Below a set cold temp, full volt, big heat. cools down in a certain amount of time after acheiving setting..then kicks on again at a shorter interval with less volts to keep heater down by reducing volts to heater the second time. Then do that again and again until a set volt into the heat returns a balanced function for the temp needed. Why is that confusing? not sure. I wish I could speak electronic babble, I’d build it myself. A loop function that self learns…work to zero with given data..level off with a perfect volt setting of stable on. perhaps a switch to reset, although the cold setting should kick heater right back in to full volt, cycle all over again.

ever notice that with houses and cars and fans in the pc? off and on, off and on, off and on, off and on, high low high low high low. medium low high off low medioum high and off. can't make up its damn mind even when they try to be smart with it. why not just level the damn yo yo off?


how to build this electronically? it would end up a box with mosfets and coolers I presume, a chip guiding things. diodes.. above is just a theoretical calibration. that is something someone will have to do just once on their own.

on a positive note. cold start to the summer type run is less than 10 minutes with intake heater on high. The thing that gets me is in rain, or cool weather, the amp reader triggers off heater sooner..exactly when heat is needed the most. That does lead to a lesson. Cold and damp, car draws more amps for every object drawing, even headlamps. neat huh? goes undetected, one has to unintentionally find that like I did. Even though the amp read, triggers bimetal, it gets hotter sooner knowing the car can demand more. It's like finding the whole picture. not just positive and negative.

cold is as much a battle as heat, even more intense as Maine taught me.

some other runtime notes..as this ea series is runted everywhere but my own apparently.
the throttle on is huge gulp, its in the decibals, much like tradition we all know in any size engine bumped up into a bigger realm. When a boxer does that..its the legend only a boxer can give.The EA engine was so runted, when you let off the throttle the exhuast got louder scvanging more air into a two inch exhaust than it did feeding the carb wide open. it is a source of comical for those of us that know better.

if one never has a dyno experimenting with the EA. you will know the turning point to a normal run. the throttle on is much bigger than the scavenge off...and that means some serious efficient to go with some extra power. I am getting old. I set timing by ear like the idle air. Timing gun? I don't even own one. I have made my own tools before owning a timing gun.

elderly person babble aside. (age 40 in maine is elderly). You know, it was not funny, when at 22 years old someone guessed my age to be 40 back then. I worked outside year round.

I found a site that lists maine as the third coldest state in the nation. north dakota has it beat by .6 of 1 degree.
41F average yearly temperature. after the yoyo of ups and downs is analyzed..it ends up at 41F.
maybe I should make the intake heater 300w instead of 200 by adding its own tag along generator in the back.
this time of year, tells me all years of an older engine. this one has never had big air, or the egr cylinder at full compress. I was impressed taking oilpan off to make the pickup some more room..nice and clean, egr cylinder was slightly dirty. this is what is cleaning out in the first cold, demanding a big start every start, no runting again. my first engine took one winter entirely to get over this.
A car shed all winter like a dog in the spring..a boxer engine has an opposite in that it does not eat much if carbed. I like it again for another reason.
people and animals this time of year, hoard in like a bear to fatten up. Cars lose wieght...as if to be no choice but a sharp blade in the cold. Right now, I got pancakes french fries two eggs and hamburger gong at 130pm. lunch ? breakfast? no. just a snack. the car on the other hand is squeezing a cylinder from 1991..

anyway, onto other thoughts about temps. a channel called vsauce on youtube, mostly nerd stuff but a recent thermal video got my interest. the word draper is heat equal to 976F and beyond. That is what I put the subes rear end at this year, very bright, almost see through. Funny enough, the subframing and reskinning channels, adding baffles. Nowhere near as lively as the rear end crossmember. this means content of course, no need to completely change a good thing. for steel, that is all one can do to reset it...about 1000F. Sterile is only one thing that happens..the frequency change is the other. this video actually speaks of the frequency. the livelier the steel problem, the "other" stuff that left it is the chance for hazard. nuclear element for example. I thought that was good info to watch. I still check the ground and even trees near my welds. (I like to stay close to earth with it). in relation to carb and ignition. steel gets very imprtant. All frequency related. There is chassis that actually stomp at an airbleed whistle (bad chassis of course). That is why race cars seem even livelier. the steel is very hard on a real build, letting what we built function. it is more difficult than talking about.

update:
if you read this far..
I found the specs on the relay of the above thermal control. 12A or 15A, eithe rone works for me. I also found you can split the load, dual 12volt in. this means switching and brain is on another side of relay. leaves load away from the board doing the thinking. I may go for this sooner than later. As of now, I built a similar version out of a pc power supply switch and the electro warmth blanket controller. Reads amps to set a thermal. primitive..but very safe. The above would be interesting for thermal. As at 70F internal duct temp..it can stay off. The ea82 can achieve that right into the 30s F by itself, but the little stroke is like a vacuum cleaner, never ending, no pulse or pause. Heat it up like a big engine does naturally, and all is well. (Heater is needed to help it.)

[Barry Donovan]

brass float

another tidbit, unnecessary now that paper elements are removed (I was blaming nitrophyl float as being something nasty)

I found brand new floats of brass by walker at o'reilly auto parts.

the "mikes carburetor" site I got so frustrated with can be left out of the sale. He even claimed there is no new brass floats and he refurbished them.

I even found the proper idle air needle, specific part numbers. i did NOT need to make my own.(Although, no regrets at all - chevy did not put 43mm throttle on a four cyl) took awhile, but the supply seems to be "walker products"

also, I deleted a pile of videos. may delete more, just summarize products that worked (all american hot rod parts on the sube). looking back at comments, there was one dufus that followed it around for reasons I do not know..and no builders. my net is torture. If I ever get setup to make parts for more than my own, some vids may come back on my own spot on the web. I learned that a decade ago with my own site. Even got questions and advice. you tube sucks me in to a ridiculous wave length. whatever is authority in you tube land is bad news for people like me making asian products look like the pile of shit it really is. It has terrorized me long enough. If I could shut that whole channel down I would.

I won't call my own spot bangor shift . com

I'll most likely make one last manic crackhead video for the audience of you tube. 99% work 1 % fun. kamikaze lke an egr valve, that seems to be the world these came from.

deciphering with math is easy, unless you are not all that smart with math. The proportion of this engine, with factor of boxer willing to dump everything and not keep it, it is similar to the 302 chevy..opinions included. 1/4 more on bore and stroke is the v8. when one gets it going, its like a vacuum cleaner. Nothing slow about it. Air has to be thought out, alot does. no pause in the small stroke. People get confused I presume, over things that go too fast to comprehend. Those engines do gain every opinion, bad to good. More than a coincidence the boxer in this thread did the same. The funniest one, is calling it small like its a cute puppy. that is the biggest dumbass opinion ever.

[Barry Donovan]

the videos

narrowed down to ten vids. the others are of more universal problems and seem to be useful. (not related to this carb thread)
as I wander away from the typical life that surrounds these..I'll just make my own noise and never speak it.
I guess if to leave it to just one video, I'll go with this one:

when car gets out of third in the vid..
its at 90.05554393548537 mph
about as close to a drag strip as this won't ever get. (the highway is a legal 75)

Just this past year has been a near gutting and back together without original subaru fuel, air, ignition, some wiring, the clutch, exhaust, and the last sneaky channel that never got aired revealed to a tow truck..actually by my pipe that fit in the channel they gave it, it is right next to the one that I neve ropened, just doubled in some places. This past summer got end near gas tank, as tank had to be removed to get it where I knew it was maine worthy (doubled at a minimum). the pipe must have heated it up like a tea pot with no spout. Natural physics helps along the way I guess. ..even if it needs to bang like a gun to snap the stubborn quarter century of dufus midget. (The tailpipes were never mounted in the channel they gave it.)

When I go this far, and pull into an inspection station, it is still a source of brain strain. The car does not even have its own badge anymore..if I had my own I'd put it there.

what was supposed to be a 3/4 inch rain storm has drawn out into an arctic teasing spiral low pressure now at 2 inches and still raining. A fall dump is a winter desert. The CAT coolant is going in soon enough. I smelled the old pcb filled coil leave just this morning. Set a micronic pace, it takes a micronically long time. the runtime should get even more interesting in coming days and weeks. As crisp as a frozen morning. That is a very serious conquering for this pig pile with death mixed in.
60F, sun poked through, clouds 20 feet off the ground and cold smoke coming from a chimney , seen through the few trees that time themselves in for colors of autumn. the rest just drop their stuff dead in a hurry. All at once is this place..many times.

the spaceweather site shows maine right in the realm of aurora last night, photos from pennsylvania, etc. Maine gets a deathly looking ghost cloud, colorless, northern horizon..I swear it attacks. I photo'd maines version several times. This may explain the odor of the old coil. (the car has garnet in the paint, its been very lively at times.) geomagnetic storm losing all colors as it smashes maine in the face...and uhm, ricers

on some cool modern notes, the resistor wire that heats intake ended up being as clever as the delco radio in that it keeps a time like the car was just shut off...many hours afterwards. I will get a good radio in sometime. A double din universal is not all that popular. finding an incredible "pioneer" for cheap is even possible. The only other anomoly is waiting for the steel. The biggest reward really. it goes the farthest.

the steel intake, I opted for a switch as well as the thermal electro blanket controller. mega amp sucker. I wanted option to shut off, trying to get the cold start alot sooner than I am..will keep it off while starting. it is all primitive as of now..but there is ways I am thinking of to get it all in hidden, such as no work without engine running.

mathing this out to other boxers, porsche is the easiest..they played with big air for years on the little 2 point something liters. At 43mm I am pushing boundaries. the weber 40s were an exotic thing to get going as it was. Intake heater I installed is no gimmick. I found as my own bonus, the little sube starter is dramatic change in speed to just 50cca in the battery. I am eyeing an optima 720cca (I am at 600 now). a boost sparks this off in a hurry...I like the word exotic there too, when it does it right. I last encountered a good battery outdone on a 327 chevrolet..20 something years ago. Not a common problem. Again. I like going there it seems, hardly as a punishment, but for the reward when done.

[Barry Donovan]

the fifth wheel

not a tractor trailer term in this case.
When I was done with this , A last chore was mounting a fifth peugeot wheel with the same tread on the car.(if four of those wheels was not rare enough, I gathered 8 of them)

just bought that last yokohama tire..procrastinated by year or more. A long year. This just had to have its own post.


I found this all black p71 recently. 100k miles. Time to look around more before snow flies...see what this old sube can swap me.

beyond attached to facts, if just one dufus gets this.. it is going to meet my flying omen.

130 am here. I won't sleep until december. Strange problem I have. dewpoints get thick, september. This was another thought of intake heater and its coming use. just a whiff of contrast in thermal from outside to in, with a double airbox (like all cars today), the little vacuum cleaner is not sucking up everything from here to the store. It liked cold start no heater. I dumped five gallons in. noticed within a mile the slight hitching is nulled. New tank is ready. I also noticed the gauge calibrated itself. the loyale tank was huge compared to the one that was in it..yet by eyeball, I could not decipher how. It must be biugger at the bottom, all the curves. Could nt reference a real difference, old tank to new, next to each other. Real glad that is in for this year.

turned intake heater on via switch I put in today. All is well.

exhaust chores one more time..not sure how to alleviate a problem at catalyst. This car needs a spring loaded relief before cat, 200psi before firing...old school big bore short stroke know what that is about...and can't keep it as perfect could be. ahh well. it is good. better safe than sorry. my spring loaded relief with a 1971 corvette steel ring as the seat in the bell mouth is proving to be a tough combo...won't fail. Another note is hydraulic lifters heading into cold. one less noise.

as the city is all my own, right into the downtown silence..I like the noise I make. it is my own. the echo off of buildings is that of balance. Each and every fire deserves it. Another observation was that the plenum bar across top of carb really was useless, even on 1781cc. I got to looking at others, and it is one of few carbs that actually have a piece of steel blocking off part of the barrel. Two barrels from other places don't even do that. Glad it was removable.

as carbs have a partial on throttle draft to stop a cough..all was there and clean on this rochester, but something was not right. It is now proving to me that it was the plenum bar, removed for some time now. The cold used to be a real nuisance..it is nice to get going now.

[Barry Donovan]

thermal controller

thermal controller ebay
I am purchase #700

the previous post in pursuit led me to another controller I saw 220v at 5 amp and knew to check it out. I ofcourse ordered with 12vdc...even more robust. A readout telling me temperature, good to 110C- and negative 58. A bit more going on for $8.44 delivered.



controller on the way. Reading measurements. Half of a removable duct would fit this in like a radio mini version in the dash. that is only first idea..get ahead of myself.

for those that do not remember the carbs with heat rise working (the tubes tended to fallaway in the first year from brand new). some did not even know that hole in the air plenum had a tube and destination. The sube in this thread shipped with a fire hazard, sometimes the dealer scrapped the tube to be safe before sale.
anyway, that heat rise was very important, especially as compression increased in the cold. to give one hint of the silent energy that goes with that.. my 1781cc freezes the throttle base of the monojet at 38F..of course that is above freezing. this proves air compresses on strong naturals...regardless of number of cylinders.
I look forward to playing with this gadget, hide it in the dash... someplace. an after thought for more than twenty years: an actual control, with no heat recycle from engine, to be the heat riser. I finally built it. What I did not know back when I was a kid, it would be more towards digital and numbers to look at.

[Barry Donovan]

pvc under the hood..




This one was not all that bad..the brown is an indicator, but not as much as the pvc melting into altered shapes to less than 200F.

not only under the hood as a possible risk, I was using this gadget I found at lowes to make a check valve on my last engine to force coolant into heater core properly (my last engine flowed two directions - bad block) soaking in the very fluid that grounded the old school oil coil (that is the other ingredient for the super chain of chemistry). Smart wasn't it.

Reading up on PCB, and hazards..as it does have an odor..my car had it. It is a cross between battery acid and extremely dense chlorine. I mean nose bleeding intense chlorine like odor. The gas state is very very good news. the brown goop is the hider of it, and that is deadly. As long as it is gas..it is a fresh mishap, easy to clean. Anything watery. the brown stuff.. I found lysol 4 in 1 bathroom gets it..but don't breathe it. Wow. the pvc must have been the trigger, wikipedia actually wrote a little on this subject. I learned it alters pvc without heat if it has got it. sure enough..this buggy was off on the death chain. I got a whiff when I broke a little hose on the forn of engine not long ago, but it went away quickly...was plaguing my thoughts randomly. I finally remembered today I had pvc under the hood interacting with coolant. I am lucky to know it had to go..

cold start came right on with the hose swapped to rubber/aluminum combo. That is yet an indication of how strong that chain can get..it can keep a ground from grounding, just hoarding electricity..like a black hole. And it does like human teeth. Keep tight lipped around it. ambiguous I guess.The pipe I used, as simple as it seems, was Again a rare piece. It is heavy duty with I.D. of heater hose. I assume 3k psi pressure washer pipe..or something. nice stuff. trying to buy some was quite a silly price.. my own was given to me, about four feet.

anyway, that is where cold starts were hiding. came right to life, high idle, a pause..then runtime. A routine of 15 years I remember well, at all temperatures. Glad to have it back bigger than never.

summarizing todays puddle under the car swapping something..
the accel electronic coil and ignition together not only stays robust, it kicked out the past..if it means setting off chains to show it aint quite right.

this is actually a big win. Serious one.

I was wandering around the net to other addicted builds, actually nicknames never met..
but chatted with. it does put into perspective, that what I am doing is not even real strains into physics yet. As long as the list of chores is. Just high pressure fuel on the sube chassis can be a daunting task. I was reading of fuel dampers this evening. Even the loyale had to play games with those. The carbs never do. It has had the same one damper since 1987. looking like new dangling in the wilderness underneath the car in front of the rear crossmember I broke 5 times.

Thank my lucky stars for now.

oh, I read some more on the cat extended coolant. young engines, as I thought, won't even care to have it. As time and pressure with carbons go by...25 years o a little engine equals a 550 cat apparently. The emphasis on their own coolant is like reading a prescription needed for my gas boxer engine. it is indeed time related. A serious corrosive battler needed. Big diesels need that right away. Big is the key word. imagine comparing volumes of just one cylinder of a diesel to an entire little engines 20+ years. It takes that long to start resorting to diesel stuff to keep going. That is to say, my problem is unique..and not acting as a spammer for diesel coolant in a gas engine.

[Barry Donovan]

first squeeze

ever go through a problem so many times, on a schedule..its blanked out of memory, like a new problem arised when it comes back..
only to be startled at just how many times it does the same thing...on a schedule?

that is called trauma.

this newer engine has never had a normal clean run, non egr, big air, fire and exhaust..I forgot what might arise in october onward.
the original engine took all five years to pop its block in the parking spot.

this one with all the after thoughts is doing quite well. Chlorine regular version is attacking power steering as it leaves it for winter. AT205 reseal and a spring time rebuild on the ps pump, I thought, fixed that forever. I guess not. the state inspection for car is this month, and I can only wash off what dribbles. There is no cure until it "feels like" being cured.

The intake heat control i have now really is a pansy...but that path is no doubt a correct direction. looking forward to the more precise controller. If to math this out, energy needed to keep running like a big engine.. I am guessing intake heater needs 40% of all energy created. The currnet controller one shuts off when it needs to battle. Cold starts are there, doing good. I think it uses the aluminum section of pipe for heater core exiting cabin, above starter, to gather a synch of interior statics of cabin, the engine, exterior grounds with a quick spark during starte engaged. Japanese metallurgy. Reminds me of a 1 cylinder kawasaki a friend tried to run in the cold months. That too needed as much heat in the intake as exhaust gave it. I call it pansy even today..the engine does not fight for itself exactly. You turbo japanese owners are running turbos for the heat. Don't bother with anything more than that...or learn my years long dramatic tale until its your own "trauma".

Humoring this has been a good torque line for fuel mileage approaching hypermile. Of course, this boxer is my last one.

fun to try and a whole lot of learning... I am never going much lower than 5 liters for the rest of my days. Not serious in that statement, I found that has been my most content. A tall geared 305 is where joy left off. 5.7 liters , the ford 302..301 pontiac. I won't speak my history. I seem to be feeling old about it. Again, not like opinions of stampedes of monkeys. If to play with small fuel, the engine has to rotate easy as possible. self balanced boxer is it. there is no other. I took thison, and continue, with guts of fact.

an awesome thing that is happening, is the loyale gas tank on carb pressure. the fuel is up another ten anyway. This is good for analyzing carb tune.Gain precise numbers whan all is like its supposed to be. I have never rich fouled a sube plug. EVER. I hope to get in on that setting bordering rich..and that is 30mpg for this one. The odor of exhaust is a very good sign, at full warm. Good healthy fuel feed going on there. A good tank is keeping the density. Another note.. I am never heating fuel again.

mapping a plan for the next heater, I want automation more than manual. Keeping it visible for a number to look at is a nerdy satisfaction. Anywa, I do not want 8 amps sucking at cold start. What to do...
as wire for original run position is on my own swtich (it took too much to run on oem key switch) The oem key switch has a shut off on one of the connections as starter is engaged. Will find which one that is, and leave the intake heater powered by that. No function while engine is starting..leave it all to ignition, choke, fuel pump. then when key spring loads back to old run position... intake heater can turn on.

make use of all oem gives, and the new stuff.

speaking with dad on truck fuel problems..it is turning to other theories, a physcal blockage. that also creates the slime ball in the return line, making tank seem the slob..when it is not. if blockage on a big pump is just right, it turns fuel to jelly. My own sucked paper elements into a red pile of lively chemistry...due to a screw I found in the main line. I compare to rig as we had same problems. must have got a good rumble heading into fall. shakng dormant things loose. autumn quakes aren't like an earthquake.

coincidence plays minds.

some weeks ago, both in his driveway, I recorded a 200k pound, 100 plus foot rig going by with those windmill pieces. On a hill as it went by, really working... an event like that could have done the rumble to both car and truck. all coincidence, same time is the only comparision to the problems. Creating unwanted chemistry sucks. Just let an engine breathe..it is the most one can do.

an update on runtime..
the rain, the fall version. when it does it this much, the winter is a real snapperhead. I found all my carbed machines, nothing was worse than autumn rain. Even a january frozen ground upside down ice storm does more pleasantly.The epiphany as I was chomping on some taco bell on my way home..
childishly gaining 7k rpm to make noise under a bridge... and that is one lively little boxer. I must admit...


I have never had a carb in this weather, this time of year (very very unpleasant, even my v8s) get so close to the warm feel of injection as this..and that is before a precision controller for heater installed. As of now, the little switch I am using got some warm with my hand on it...goal is met, barely.

and defrost is awesome. that one move at making heater did it all, even demands volt reg of alt to be big, and that reverberates through everything, of course.

[Barry Donovan]

turbo exhaust gasket

here comes the worst year of my old engine running normal..all over again. This process is not easy. This one is different in real cam timing, exhaust size, ignition, fuel air and cooling from the get go. The first one did alright, this one should be easier.


I found some unique gaskets in the turbo ea82 section..ordered some. This and caterpillar coolant. 32F by monday, and rain inbetween. will get after this sooner than later.I blew out the exhaust gasket entirely today. I’d love to see a psi reading on that. 2 inch sleeved into the head and blows gaskets as if they were nothing resembling what is needed. These blurry net photos is all I get to go by. better than the past by a long shot. This month and this car is the longest..I don’t do it now, january is a bitch.

for coolant, the guy at parts store was knowledgable. handed me some stuff called Zerex. G something zero. I am fighting with the same stuff that inspired gm to make dex cool. ..I could go with dex cool or the zerex. I mentioned 1987 and he said the Zerex is good. So dex cool was for aluminum radiators and most likely electronic sensitivity. I have neither.
some last look overs, and noticed pump was genuine suby, not matching age of engine. this is good. it knows how to function clutch fan and tighten its own seals. The zerex is on the pricy side for unmixed..but had some cat diesel coolant leftover in the 1.25 gallon system, the zerex is also approved for diesels. the battle it seems is something called OATS organic something, as well as silicates and phosphate. This gets both those out of my explosive equation. the remnants of cat coolant gets the molybdenum and greases. this leads me to make my own mix again. Cat and zerex or dexcool.
another unique event these engines do cleaning them up into cold and warm spells. autmn is good for that.. the valves self clean. I must have cleared somethingout on #2 cylinder, as idle is near 1k rpm, and exhaust is very robust. Adjust things accordingly. my last engine did the same thing..first season of clean. Exhaust gaskets are just for events like this anyway, hardly perturbed.

my most liked event for these days coming is the smell of rich and engine not choking on it. my longest lasting engines did this in the fall as well. I am right on the money with the mixes.This does not mean sucking the ptrol either..it simply shows me the autumn battle is on, but fuel is winning.

..and lastly, turning starter I found clock and radio shut off as engine turns. have at least two 12v leads for the incoming heater controller to choose from. could even give it a dimmer for when lights get turned on (I add that from the clock to the darndest things)

[Barry Donovan]

rough hp calc revisited

Today, found the merge at end of equal y-pipe I made disintegrated. I went and ordered exhaust gaskets anyway. Turned out not be the problem, oh well. Getting the welder out..I guess I will be going for the 40th pound mig reel. I like the exhaust to attack itself back there. This shows engine grounds are good...just another chore. at least it is simple.
These are the things that happen in an october inspection month only...been my self omened tragedy as long as I can remember, even before the subaru. October and car do not get along.

I was talking of the carb freezing at 38F, exhaust sleeved into the head blowing gaskets, lightnings if electricity is not dispersed correctly, plastic side tank radiators deemed useless, oem clutch as well, tire ratings needing 15 inch minimum, mufflers with a chmnber explode to fatigue, and nevermind the glass packing fiber versions. 87 octane after the rochestor and cool intake...impossible.

Upon several tear downs, deciphering compression kept leading me to 12 to 1 or a bit higher on the flat n/a pistons, beyond zero deck..and compression rings in the HG. 18 head bolts for four cylinders..

something subaru forgot to tell us in the math.

anyway, I found this calc fun to play with:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/roughhp.html

at a factory 5600 rpm, 12.5 to 1 as mean compression, hp is theorized at 139.
This coincides with my numbers found, and a place that built airplane versions of these engines. Wanted to share that , as when things go beyond making sense, taking stabs at calculators is reassuring sometimes.

I was just chuckling over the little things that happen over the years when physics gets thumped that hard. changing air box, external to engine bay to breathe, fogged up the blinker lense above it (it is waterproof). the pressure inside the lense knows the intake box was reliefed. The stories are many. the comedy is assuming its just a cute little engine as you go about the repairs. Feisty little bugger. I am actually cleaning up and drying out the lense on passenger side as of writing. Those are nice to look at. I heard them referred to as xmas lenses..unique scatter of light.

may as well mention this cleaner from family dollar. I knew this was good after it cleaned off goopy ionization from an old computer CRT (my own looks like brand new in seconds).



good stuff. ignoring ther disgusting oven, I use it for parts only. Annealing, hardening. The most hard core ionization is in the brown. it can even hold pcb chains, among other things. The above cleaner triggers in water, just like the ionization thief in the oven. fight fire with fire they say..I ended up melting this lense in the oven. 200F..I guess it was time to retire it anyway. I had a spare, threw that in. kept the old one just in case. warped or not..still get some lights going. call it character to look at.

speaking of character. I am rummaging through craigslist, I do not know how to sell a car. I started looking at everything for 2500, then worked up to 4000. Junk. 150k miles seem to be the average. No work ever done..sitting on a fairy tale, they just gonna put that beauty car /truck out there for 4 freaking thousand dollars. My jaw dropped..either I am stuck in a less inflation economy, or this sube is going out there for 6000 firm. people ought to be ashamed asking what they do...


the details of going over every retarded flunk, some known to all trucks and cars in maine are conquered double over at a minimum. I need to rethink the reality of what I got this tin can compiled into. Absolute sickening shame to see what they get for beautiful junk (oxymoron- yes)today..of course, travelling around the country helped, maine is simply a butthead when it comes to used prices.

[Barry Donovan]

exhaust math

I broke then end of equal header..as in disintegrate, not a steel load fail, as in weight might do..this was pressure.
speaking of calculators to reassure...

with a double two inch simaesed into the merge. I knew back when I made it that was a tight pressure gradient. I wanted the siamese to venturi to time in a scavenge on the double timing belt four cylinder. of course it worked..8500 rpm is a whistle.

I do not have simple math for area of circles in my head, but thanks to the net went and figured out what would take the load off entirely.
A simple section maybe 4 inches long at 2.83 inches diameter.
the same pipe at intake plenum is 3 inch and 1/8th inch thick. bigger than the dumbass excuse for exhaust pipe, will be welding in a section of that if it means a bit oval at one end.

My first encounter with header ends was my own v8. Not a friendly merge, needs to be tough. the four cyl has no excuses either.

This directly affected idle speed, dramatically after it melted open. I am contemplating an entire run of 3 inch on the straight away to axle back. I have blown exhaust every october since taking this on. A cat chasing its own tail.

the pause I was looking for, and did not know where to put a chamber, is most likely the end of header. The snap crackle pops of a rally car is useless for civilization. Will find out on tuesday when it is welded in, if it helps any.

[Barry Donovan]

setup for gauges

With the intake temp controller I was thinking of going back to single din radio, leaving a single din spot so I can read it and change it...change it to what? EGT is a good idea.

melting the exhaust for the last time. the 3 inch diameter section of 1/8th thick pipe from my dads 550 cat has a seriously welded bung for a thermocouple.

I found this egt pyrometer with probe and size of my choosing to thread into collector.

the intake heat controller and the egt reader is 1 din side by side.

good price. will be a winter month addon.

I was reading high compression actually had lower egt. not sure what isgong in with the sube..but it is cheap enough to find out. Can even tell me jet size changes.

[patrickth]

Absolutely facinating thread. I not only read it, but will read it again to make sure I gleaned and comprehended. It reminded me of my old MG and Sunbeam. Never could afford other people working on them, so had to analyze and fix every little thing to keep them on the road. Stuck in Baja once with the MG, had to tear down ther carb every 25 miles to get going again. Went into analyzing mode and determined it was a case of pin holes in the old brass floats. Kept filling will gasoline. Rubbed a bar of soap over the float, filling pinholes and it got me all the way back to Hayward, Ca. About 900 miles with no more problems.

[Barry Donovan]

Absolutely facinating thread. I not only read it, but will read it again to make sure I gleaned and comprehended. It reminded me of my old MG and Sunbeam. Never could afford other people working on them, so had to analyze and fix every little thing to keep them on the road. Stuck in Baja once with the MG, had to tear down ther carb every 25 miles to get going again. Went into analyzing mode and determined it was a case of pin holes in the old brass floats. Kept filling will gasoline. Rubbed a bar of soap over the float, filling pinholes and it got me all the way back to Hayward, Ca. About 900 miles with no more problems.

mg engines, they are in this realm, super stoich and draft..like an acetylene torch dialing in.
I tried inlines first, an old chevette..could not keep cylinders clear. Sad abyss..I thought later, tilted like an old saab, or bimmer..a better chance.
to stay in this old realm the boxer takes out alot of pressures, allows for very fast feed. Exhaust math seems to be the last science I am in now...adding a collector with volume.
tomorrow is another weld. getting cold here.. I hope its the last one for this year.

a carb that takes nitrophyl float is an option for 20+ hg..you just reminded me of why not to go brass for this one...pokes its own holes with the airless realm rumbling around.

[Barry Donovan]

collector math final

I was reading at car craft, and there is several others..even bangshift had some video on this subject.

needing to stop a fail, I got an answer to result of adding length to collector, and that is increasing peak torque at lower rpm, the rest is screaming HP as per race engine usual.

the butt dyno tells me the big dig is way out there right now to 7k or so.. subaru was so constipated they had it at 5600.

6 inch collector is good , four banger trying to keep 2500-7500 as civilized normal car.

some may never notice that math..until going so far off a normal outcome like my own. the palce I thrash things all over the ground has still a few puddles from recent rain.. giving it a day. Glad I waited, I would have gone too small again.



I quickly made this today..CAT engine piping. a bit thicker than exhaust normally gets. skil saw with metal cutting blade slow gets it.

4.5 x 2.75ID.. a bit smaller than what I wanted, but found there is not much room to go bigger. Original intention was a stroke and a half in length, by 2.82 ID. this will work. I cut notches as a merge, like a v8 header, is not round. Custom welding and shaping has to happen as two pipes morph to one, cannot be round of course. The flat end goes to flange. I used a large one, bolts are spaced out enough to get this pipe welded to it. Using intake heater on switch only, the controller is useless. It took ten minutes to get the thermal I wanted. the little vacuum cleaner engine is quite a sucker..that is a compliment to cam timings for power, it is not like today. old school draft. I drive these for years with a frigid intake, even with coolant at 180F running through it. I may make an entire intake someday. For now, got heat, engine into content. the contrast of decibals as cold weather comes in, when this gets to working operating temperature is rather funny. Very alive..a bit of a hoax like injection, more noise than power on this same engine..but it is a sign of healthy anyway.



with some old “lever jaw” (most call them vise grips) I shaped up what I wanted while at home. The chill is on, I want to get under it, and done with it, and go home. This is a unique approach to merge and collector. the amount of 2 inch pipe sticking out is how much after the merge will be two inch to shoot into relax in the volume. Still not like a two to 1 collector as most buy them..but I wanted to hang onto at least some venturi pressure of combined merge to carry a 14 foot long hike to back of car with 1781cc…and slam the cat with a good shot of 800F. The winter is very difficult for such a tiny displacement.These efforts are not so intense with a heated intake, but I do have 15 years with this ea82 engine. keep it foolproof when something in the equation don't want to work.

I like geometry in the custom exhausts..unique sounds called custom go with it. I was thinking of insynerator bullit muffler, the dome entrance and exit. This collector is a mini version..just a silly thing to add, and more for the chore needing to get done. A patient hot weld will keep the pressure. The steel is impressive..the rig it came from as an original piece was at 550,000 miles. This steel its real..ya know?

I shared this already, I must admit it gets the most credit for being nerdy over this. If you look at his ending of exhaust as a drag racing engine, the big tailtip is after a quick squeeze at collector. looking above at my photo, when cat is unbolted, it resembles the dragster exhaust. A little secret revealed.
Nerdy does not cost money mind you..
anyway, this got very serious for the dual timing belt engine. on top of that they are two different lengths. I even centered the carb as a real center, not a mathed one (it needed towards #1 , I gave it a .25 shift on carb mount). I have had equal length plug wires for a long time, the most success right off came from that one chore. if you have an ea82..carbed facotry, it will blow headgasket or bend passenger cam if to try to center runtime. they are weeble wobbled by design. the loyale/ injected engines love the centering...basically camshafts. if you are fixing an old carb engine,get loyale cams first.Carbs are the only one that got built to be lopsided at the cams...and they are rare. odds are you would have a normal engine. Just wanted to share that.. my own went to thermite explosion. Don't even ask at a subaru forum.



here is a drawing explaining the madness..the purpose of volume just after a slightly demanded merge. Again, this is dual timing belt related..two banks. one tries to be master, fails happen (this engine keeps running on two with passenger cam belt fail), non destructive little engine.

to give an idea of speed. 500 rpm equals 4 fires a second? A fire every 180 degrees is two per revolution..so, it is four times a second at 500rpm. I think that is what it is to figure that out.. it gets much faster than that as most of us know. this simple little thing should be quite helpful.

some last nerdy math..each cylinder volume is 9.675, the collector holds 12.375..that is plenty, expansion should be nulled a little bit..catch an error, mosy on down the pipe.

[Barry Donovan]

the chill

I am glad to be doing just exhaust. although the sight of frost..the gadgets under dash, the battle with the electron midget is on, looking forward to see how it does. today was a big explosive start..but exhaust is melted. of course it is going to come to life. Cold spot of the nation..no need to mention it. no one else does.


disturbing this year was no september frost, where I am at. this contrast gets a wider gap, to clash a bigger battle as season reels in. Been worse no doubt. When a hurricane slams in january..wow.

rambling on.. I found the controller I bought from ebay on you tube, slightly different , but same function. it monitors temp in realtime, which was nice to see.. so will be keeping it visible someplace. I also found the controller I was using was the amp suck, not the heater. I turned on switch setup, no controller, and did not notice volt drop..even thought it might be broke, but switch got hot, then I checked under hood, it is working.
I also found some tricks to use one power source for the whole darn thing. two wires coming out of loom rubber to engine bay...bonus. one power, one thermal probe. I found a plug for intake boot that will let probe stay in one entrance, and vent canister exit in the other. lucky connection.This is significant function I always wanted to try, could have saved 20 carb engines with it.

I found avergae temp of earth is 56. will set for off at 60, on for 50.