Thanks, needed the chuckle.
And I know exactly what your talking about.
Thanks, needed the chuckle.
And I know exactly what your talking about.
I'm still learning
Classic WTF moment today. I had to pull the the intermediate exhaust pipes which are the collectors and Dr.Gas x-pipe in order to upsize he the race exhaust to a 4" pair of dumps and to make access to the trans pan easier. At Irwindale last weekend the Overdrive Lockout wasn't working. On the AOD the OD lockout keeps 100% line pressure on the clutch packs and ensures the trans doesn't up shift into OD as its only good for 450 Ft/lbs. You have to pull the pan to inspect the OD lockout solenoid and it's function.
To pull the intermediate pipes mean' disconnecting the AFR sensors. I had to cycle the ignition several times to figure out the the illuminated OD Lockout switch was fried and I forgot to re-calibrate the the MTX AFR's when I put everything back together. So when I started it be gauges went nuts.
So back up on the jack stands pull the sensors, recalibrate, reassemble, back off jack stands. Back to square one.
Isn't technology fun?
Last edited by CDMBill; July 28th, 2012 at 09:33 PM.
Drag Week 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - Big hat no horses
Drag Week 2013 - Watching the live feed
Drag Week 2014 - Maybe I'll go faster with a 1000 fewer pounds?
Oh joy. Here I was redoing the white wire from the MSD box on the Impala I'm using as a kill switch because it was frayed.
I think your car has more sensors and wiring than the 2011 Suburban I drive.
BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
Resident Subversive
The good news is the recalibrate on went well, the external map sensor that reads crankcase pressure/vacuum is being logge and displayed in the software, and the other stuff is working too.
Having the opportunity to remove the intermediate pipes allowed me to properly clean and re-seal the collector flanges and an exhaust leak that was haunting me is finally gone. It sound a lot like the lash opening up which I am paranoid about.
Put the road race/auto-x, long drive tires and wheels on today for the Tucson trip coming up this week. Little brakes in 18's look stupid.
Drag Week 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - Big hat no horses
Drag Week 2013 - Watching the live feed
Drag Week 2014 - Maybe I'll go faster with a 1000 fewer pounds?
I was able to get the DW trailer back on track tonight with the help of a cut off wheel, grinder, die grinder and welder. Now it's down to the height I wanted so I can just see over it to the rear and it'll load easier and be better balanced when loaded seems like a bunch of non-sense but I think it'll pay off on the road.
Next TNT in Tucson and Phoenix for hot weather testing, then back to LA for the Pomona NMCA True Street event.
Drag Week 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - Big hat no horses
Drag Week 2013 - Watching the live feed
Drag Week 2014 - Maybe I'll go faster with a 1000 fewer pounds?
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up
Exactly!
Drag Week 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - Big hat no horses
Drag Week 2013 - Watching the live feed
Drag Week 2014 - Maybe I'll go faster with a 1000 fewer pounds?
I'm working on the fuel tank project at the moment and I think I'm going to go a slightly different route. I bought a new tank rather than fight the used tank welding issues and I have the Aeromotive sump and related parts. The picture gives a sense of relative size.
I was going to add baffles and one way valves dividing the tank into 3rds roughly with a front 'triangle' and two sides, but it doesn't help with getting all the fuel as much as possible into the sump, especially when I want to run the least fuel possible without starving the pickup.
So my plan is to use a small submersible pump that will in effect be a lift pump with the sump acting as a surge tank wthin the larger tank. This view sort of shows the relationship the two will have. I'll add baffles at the top of the sump to control slosh. A small pump and filter sock adds less weight than all the baffles and one way valves, and a hatch in the top of the tank and in the trunk floor withh give me easy access for repairs or servicing. At least that is the thinking. I'll add one drain to the main tank to ensre I can empty it when I need to, but I'm very open to other ideas as well as suggestions for the small lift pump.
These are the other parts including the one-way valves. I may keep the larger one in the fornt of the sump and add two smaller baffles so I can do stop start slosh into the sump in the event the pump fails. I know I'm adding complexity, but that seems to be my SOP.
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Drag Week 2012 - Winner Street Race Big Block Naturally Aspirated - Big hat no horses
Drag Week 2013 - Watching the live feed
Drag Week 2014 - Maybe I'll go faster with a 1000 fewer pounds?
Nothing to add except, FIVE GALLON SUMP! That thing looks huge.
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up