Drag Week 2012 - Project GIRTST 71 Mustang (get it right the second time)

[CDMBill]

Looks like you are really getting this thing sorted out. Great thread! IIRC in another thread you were planning to put an Aeromotive sump in your gas tank. Any work on that yet? I am curious as to what to do inside the tank to stop rust as the galvanize will be burned off from the tank. Is there a coating for this?

I bought an Eastwood fuel tank cleaning and sealing kit from Summit based on Aeromotive's recommendation. And after a lot of thought and listening to some good advice here on BangShift I went ahead and ordered a new stock style tank to weld on rather than continue to mess with the existing one. Its coming form Kentucky Mustang as they had a great price on the Canadian made Nitrene steel tank rather than the cheapie off shore knock-offs. It also comes with a new American made fuel gauge sender as the cheapie off shore knock-off I bought six months ago has already quit working. The old tank was new six years ago and also made from the Nitrene steel and has no inside rust as of yet. I powder coated the outside. I think living here in SoCal helps with rust even though I'm really close to the ocean.

I hope to finally finish that project this coming week.

[OldMachinist]

Thanks for the reply. I also purchased a new tank and the aeromotive sump and was concerned with condensation causing internal rust. Please post your results when you are finished and as you guessed, yes I want to use you as a guniea pig.

[CDMBill]

The newly water jet cut EDIS wheel arrived today, so I can finally get the barge back under its own power. This one will be bolted to the damper so no welding risks. Its also .375 thick like the better factory wheels so I feel confident about clean square wave from the sensor.

If fits perfectly on to the damper hub so apparently I got the measurements right. I have to add longer bolts to the damper hub assembly and then I'll be good to go.

[BBR]

Nice looking part!!!

[SuperBuickGuy]

very nice part - and thanks, you reminded me of the 8th way I can have metal cut

[CDMBill]

I'm at ten and counting. More tools more fun.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm at ten and counting. More tools more fun.

truer words were never said

[CDMBill]

Reassembled everything today. It started right up and I had only a four degree adjustment to make to line up the new trigger wheel/damper combo. No leaks, no drips, so onto some tuning tomorrow and work the cut over to the MS3X.

Also had to reset TDC on the timing pointer thanks to one of tossed P/S belts having kicked it all out of adjustment. Good old Comp Cams piston stop and a sharpie, real high tech stuff.

[squirrel]

I bet that's a relief to have it running again...

[CDMBill]

No kidding, there is always that nagging feeling that there might have been some damage I missed.

[TheSilverBuick]

Nice looking wheel Bill! Glad it's up and running.

[CDMBill]

Lamest project so far

I got into the wiring today and while I was tearing everything open I thought I'd go ahead and put in the power windows. Yes, power windows. If you've ever got stuck in staging all belted in the two layer suit sweltering with sweat coming out of the helmet, you may understand.

The weight is a push with the dead speakers I took out, so I'm calling it good. The kit is pleasant surprise so far in terms of installation. I did the passenger side which was the crucial one for me I'll finish the drivers side this week.

I did a quick test and the window goes up and smoothly. The kit is a universal setup from Electric Life called Colibri and is made in Italy!?

[TheSilverBuick]

Pictures? I want to convert the Skylark over to electric. The regulator on the manual crank is about wore out on it and I'm expecting it to go in the next couple years.

[milner351]

My cheap little 110 flux core mig welder is made in italy - I got it well used and it's done everything I've asked of it for several rolls of wire, maybe my ancestors over there have a good grasp on controlling those damned little electrons.

[CDMBill]

This will give you an idea about the Electric Life Colibri kit. Its essentially a fully contained worm driven cog belt that engages the factory mechanical window crank mechanism. The kit cost $140.00 for the two big windows and three switches and all wring and hardware.

I only found one true direct replacement set-up for the 71 Mustang and it was $700. Original factory stuff on eBay goes for over a grand and the weight is crazy heavy.

Randall, you may have better luck finding a complete electric replacement kit as there is a better selcetion out there for GM stuff. That would solve your decrepit mechanical window situation. Expect to pay about $300-400 from what I saw around. I'll pst a few more pictures later.