62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[SuperBuickGuy]

while bypassing the thermostat works quite well, be looking for a replacement (either board or plasma).... that trick doesn't last terribly long.

otherwise, nice work on that front install

[milner351]

The plasma is back to playing tricks, I guess I should buy some new tip consumables, and a thermostat - if that doesn't do it I'm ready to give up on it.

I got the passenger side mini tub done, and got a good start on the driver side.

The passenger side engine mount is going to be fine, the driver side, I'm going to have to start from scratch, the rack and pinion input shaft goes right through the stock mount.

On the shopping list are Mustang 2 lower control arms to replace the stockers - and not have to hassle with making strut rods, anyone have suggestions.

Here's a few shots of the progress, and problems.

[STINEY]

Hackmaster Flash - - now THAT cracks me up. Feeling a tad bit dated as well, thanks man!

Do you have a picture of your problem area from the top looking down? Might help with the visualization/creative idea manifestation thing.

Hmmm.....there has to be a slick way to get around that. Maybe build a mount that goes from the crossmember up and cut the shock tower one away?

[milner351]

I was thinking about something like this for the driver side motor mount:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...unts,1175.html

I may end up having to put the long block with tri-ys in place on the pass side mount, leveled side to side and start taking measurements.

I have to order the steering shaft couplers and what not - is speedway the best place to get that sort of thing? Never done this before, I started cutting the steering shaft just above the steering box but gave up after dulling out the second sawzall blade.

What do ya'll think of these to eliminate the need for the strut rod in the M2?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG...f0bb7b&vxp=mtr

[TheSilverBuick]

Looking good, heck of a lot of progress.

[BBR]

Could you notch that stock mount and weld in a piece of half tube to reinforce it parallel with the steering shaft?

[STINEY]

I was thinking about something like this for the driver side motor mount:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...unts,1175.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG...f0bb7b&vxp=mtr

That mount would probably work, but I'd be sure to put a fore-to-aft limiter in the chassis along with it. Just something to keep the engine/trans positively located.


Those arms are what I figured you would be using. I see them a lot in lighter cars with the MII suspension, should be fine in yours? Although if you keep adding 100# rolls of welding wire........

[milner351]

BBR - the drivers side mount in stock configuration won't work at all with the steering shaft - it's hard to get perspective from the picture - but the shaft goes through the same space that the motor mount bolt goes through. I have to go with a mount that is further outboard and higher - I will likely end up cutting away some more of the stock mount area to make room for the steering shaft coupler that I have to buy.

The next debate is - retain the stock steering column, or spend $260ish on a bare steel summit column?

[STINEY]

I like stock steering columns, so I'm thinking adding a double universal joint to the stock column, and one or two of these

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Precis...nch,29594.html

to get the shaft down close to the frame and keep it there until the shaft is infront of the engine mount, then another double universal to the rack input? I can't tell from the picture if the stock rack input would need shortened or not, a shot from the top would tell the story there.

I know double universals are expensive, but the junkyards are full of vans that usually have at least one or two double universals on them. Slice-n-dice your own on the cheap with OEM parts?

[milner351]

heim joints / spherical rod ends in the steering shaft? never heard of that before.

I was thinking two universals, one at the end of the steering column, one at the rack. The rack input shaft is splined and keyed so I don't want to shorten it.

I went ahead and ordered those lower control arms - I need to save time and get to the assembly phase... asap!