Ahhh.....the smell of freshly burnt arm hair and skin. A nostalgic "ShopSmell" for sure.
62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?
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Plasma cutter looked pretty clean inside - cleaner than I thought it would. Filter for onboard compressor is one of those bronze deals and it looked new. I blew everything off with compressed air and gave it a once over visually to see if I could find any burnt capacitors or resistors. Nothing turned up looking odd. I pulled on each wire connector to see if any seemed loose. When I did that on one component that turned out to be the thermostat - one connector came right off in my hand. SO - I did what every backyard mechanic would do - I bypassed it hoping the machine would work. It works better than it ever has. I will just have to make sure I keep the 35% duty cycle in mind when using the machine.
Quick update:
I've put an entire 11lb spool of welding wire into this build and I've not even started the minitub welding!
More welding on the Mustang 2 cross member, I'm having to put little pieces of the subframe we cut out back in to make it look like hackmaster flash didn't install this thing.... it's turning out OK. I'm a bit worried about the routing of the steering shaft and my decision to retain the stock motor mounts. Looking at this picture from tffn.net - I'm going to have to rework the driver side significantly to make room for the steering shaft.... live and learn:
Mini tub cutting continues. I have the passenger side cut out in the tub, now I have to cut the inner tub away from the trunk hinge support and the back seat bulkhead. I think I will get the passenger side atleast tacked into place before cutting on the driver side to make sure where I'm cutting makes sense when the puzzle goes back together.Last edited by milner351; July 7, 2012, 04:22 AM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Man this thing is really comming together and is looking great I don't know where you find the time to do all this. Great job you should be proud of yourself.Greg & Mendy Dayton, Ohio 2007LH 2008LH 2010LH 2011LH 2012 1st 2 stops 2013LH 2015 1st 2 stops2016LH 2017 first and last stops . 2018 LH ("It's better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool!! Harley Davidson!")Comment
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Better figure in fenderwell headers, looks like that steering shft is using expensive real estateComment
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while bypassing the thermostat works quite well, be looking for a replacement (either board or plasma).... that trick doesn't last terribly long.
otherwise, nice work on that front installDoing it all wrong since 1966Comment
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The plasma is back to playing tricks, I guess I should buy some new tip consumables, and a thermostat - if that doesn't do it I'm ready to give up on it.
I got the passenger side mini tub done, and got a good start on the driver side.
The passenger side engine mount is going to be fine, the driver side, I'm going to have to start from scratch, the rack and pinion input shaft goes right through the stock mount.
On the shopping list are Mustang 2 lower control arms to replace the stockers - and not have to hassle with making strut rods, anyone have suggestions.
Here's a few shots of the progress, and problems.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Hackmaster Flash - - now THAT cracks me up. Feeling a tad bit dated as well, thanks man!
Do you have a picture of your problem area from the top looking down? Might help with the visualization/creative idea manifestation thing.
Hmmm.....there has to be a slick way to get around that. Maybe build a mount that goes from the crossmember up and cut the shock tower one away?Last edited by STINEY; July 9, 2012, 05:25 AM.Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.Comment
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I was thinking about something like this for the driver side motor mount:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...unts,1175.html
I may end up having to put the long block with tri-ys in place on the pass side mount, leveled side to side and start taking measurements.
I have to order the steering shaft couplers and what not - is speedway the best place to get that sort of thing? Never done this before, I started cutting the steering shaft just above the steering box but gave up after dulling out the second sawzall blade.
What do ya'll think of these to eliminate the need for the strut rod in the M2?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG...f0bb7b&vxp=mtrLast edited by milner351; July 9, 2012, 05:33 AM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Could you notch that stock mount and weld in a piece of half tube to reinforce it parallel with the steering shaft?Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nailComment
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That mount would probably work, but I'd be sure to put a fore-to-aft limiter in the chassis along with it. Just something to keep the engine/trans positively located.Originally posted by milner351 View PostI was thinking about something like this for the driver side motor mount:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...unts,1175.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG...f0bb7b&vxp=mtr
Those arms are what I figured you would be using. I see them a lot in lighter cars with the MII suspension, should be fine in yours? Although if you keep adding 100# rolls of welding wire........
Last edited by STINEY; July 9, 2012, 07:49 AM.Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.Comment
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BBR - the drivers side mount in stock configuration won't work at all with the steering shaft - it's hard to get perspective from the picture - but the shaft goes through the same space that the motor mount bolt goes through. I have to go with a mount that is further outboard and higher - I will likely end up cutting away some more of the stock mount area to make room for the steering shaft coupler that I have to buy.
The next debate is - retain the stock steering column, or spend $260ish on a bare steel summit column?There's always something new to learn.Comment
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I like stock steering columns, so I'm thinking adding a double universal joint to the stock column, and one or two of these
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Precis...nch,29594.html
to get the shaft down close to the frame and keep it there until the shaft is infront of the engine mount, then another double universal to the rack input? I can't tell from the picture if the stock rack input would need shortened or not, a shot from the top would tell the story there.
I know double universals are expensive, but the junkyards are full of vans that usually have at least one or two double universals on them. Slice-n-dice your own on the cheap with OEM parts?Last edited by STINEY; July 9, 2012, 09:32 AM.Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.Comment
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heim joints / spherical rod ends in the steering shaft? never heard of that before.
I was thinking two universals, one at the end of the steering column, one at the rack. The rack input shaft is splined and keyed so I don't want to shorten it.
I went ahead and ordered those lower control arms - I need to save time and get to the assembly phase... asap!Last edited by milner351; July 9, 2012, 09:39 AM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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