62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[pintoboy77]

You may have to beef them up for racing. I don't know how much of a beating they can take.

[milner351]

I ordered the rack mounts and motor mounts - I will wait to ship the rack back to flaming river until I can see what the welder series rack mounts do to the packaging.... it may end up with the rack tilted (and probably lowered slightly) that the longer pinion will be a good thing to get the first u-joint behind the rack and motor mound instead of right under it as would be the case with the 2" shorter pinion I thought I wanted..... the rack relocation will likely make the lower control arms work without issue as well - at least that's what I'm hoping for.

I'm starting to realize I probably should have gotten the welder series cross member in the first place like SBG told me to....

[pintoboy77]

I put a new Flaming River rack on the Pinto last year what a great rack good road fill is'nt loose don't have to sit there sawing on it the whole time your driving they have a fantastic product.

[Scott Liggett]

I've had to do some catching up. It's coming along nicely.

[milner351]

Had company for the weekend so didn't make much progress however, I did have time to confirm that the new consumables in the tip of the plasma cutter did make it work correctly again - so - hope is not lost on that machine being useful again.

I found a set of reasonably priced matched door and ignition locks - those are on the way.

If in fact the flaming river column allows me to use the factory wheel - I will be ordering one of those when I place the order for the pushrods. I need to weld up an old hyd roller lifter so it's a "solid" and use that to check the pushrod length. I'm going to leave the heads alone and run the engine the way it is - around 9.7 compression ratio.

The welder series rack mounts and engine mounts are on the way - from canada they went to detroit, then Ohio, then back to the closest sorting facility - strange.

[STINEY]

I was talking to a buddy at a show yesterday, he was telling me of some cool stuff that POR15 markets for restoring steering wheels.

(I've done the JB weld epoxy thing on a '56 Beetle wheel myself, this stuff sounds a bit easier)

Its a water catalyzed epoxy that you form into shape, filling missing pieces and cracks, and once you get the shape close, you spray it with water and it sets up from there. Then you can finish shape by sanding.

Don't know how your original wheel is condition wise, but I thought this sounded like cool stuff, and lots less sanding too! He used it on his '61 Catalina wheel (which was originally 1/2 clear) and then painted to match 10 years ago! It looked very good yesterday, couple of very small stress cracks, nothing noticable from 3' away though. Basically you had to bee looking for the cracks to find them, and this was on a light raspberry colored wheel.

Anyways, thought you might could use this info.

Later!

[milner351]

Thanks Stiney - I picked up a black falcon/comet wheel at the columbus swap meet that is pretty much good to go as is, the original white wheel could be saved but would take a lot of that puddy you're talking about, I'm holding on to it regardless.

Welder series stuff and lower control arms were on the front porch when I got home yesterday.

Welder series stuff sure is nice - thanks SBG for turning me on to them.

I think the angled rack mounts are going to solve a multitude of problems:
1 - nearly horizontal angle of pinion shaft makes engine mount interference easier to deal with - and means I won't have to pay the $75 to get the shorter pinion shaft installed at Flaming river
2 - angle of rack moves tie rods out of interference path with aftermarket wishbone lower control arms on the front of the cross member.
3 - brackets allow the rack to be lowered slightly to improve inner tierod boot clearance to frame, and help more with engine mount.

4 - I may not have to use the welder series engine mount - only time will tell based on the interference of the U joint at the rack.

[STINEY]

Shazaam!! Progress!

Looks like you could grind a bit more of an angle to those rack mounts too, if you wanted to point the shaft down a bit more.

[milner351]

Setting the rack position is going to take some trial and error - I'm likely going to cut out the lower flange of the stock cross member to allow the mounts to go down a bit lower.... getting it all centered will be a measure 3x weld once endeavor.
I'm really impressed with the welder series stuff - I'm kicking myself for not going with their cross member kit in the first place.

I got an old roller lifter welded last night, given the expected 103F heat today - I will probably stay home and work on the engine - p to V clearance check, and pushrod length, then order the pushrods.

I went with a raw steel ebay steering column with tilt - $200 to my dooor including a steering wheel adaptor - I hope to run the stock wheel - if not - probably a classic black foam gripped three spoke - at least 15" since it will remain manual steering. I also found a set of ignition and door locks keyed the same - so I will finally have keys for the thing - which reminds me - I still have to get the surety bond so I can get a title!

[BBR]

[SuperBuickGuy]

pretty scary when the doomsday clock won't post

[milner351]

Tick tock - understood!

I didn't realize how expensive steering U-joints were ! SHEESH.

[STINEY]

Yeah.....please let the rest of us know when you find a reasonable source for them.

I can do a lot of junkyard fabbing for what the market sells them for. Vans man, vans......

[milner351]

Looks like the place I got the column from on ebay has the best prices for new ones, $39 each for joints, $29 for a piece of 3/4 DD shaft.
If I had more time, the junkyard option would be tempting. I have a fox body steering column, but nothing appears to be usable from it.

2 u joints and a shaft are being shipped with the steering column from the same Ebay vendor in Iowa, another $107, thankfully they're combining shipping.

[milner351]

Spending the 104F record breaking heat wave evening in the garage where the fan helps to make the 90F bearable.

Based on the pics, the piston valve reliefs check out at 6cc as advertised.

With a welded solid roller lifter and stock length pushrods adjusted at basically zero lash - I think I'm safe to go with stock length pushrods.

The rocker to spring relationship is bueno, no retainer rocker interferance....and the p to v clearance is over 0.110" E, and over 0.2" plenty.

The cam is in 4 degrees advanced thanks to advice explaining it will help maximize the less than optimal compression ratio.

Cam endplay looks fine.

Time to order pushrods.

I may end up having to move or grind on the guide plates, the one cylinder I checked, one rocker was not centered over the valve.