62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

[milner351]

UH OH!

Since I found the SPS specs and they agree torque spec wise with the stock ford specs, I'll probably stick with those.

The block has ARP main studs but SPS rod bolts. I have a set of ARP head bolts I'll be using.

anyone tried to measure stretch with a mic instead of a stretch gauge? probably going to take forever.

[RAIV70Judge]

You could bring them to me and I'll put them on the comparator for measurment......

[Rob-o-matic]

I haven't had a chance to read the entire thread, sorry, but I had a question about your steering box. Are you replacing the original and if so are you going rebuilt or a swap? My '63 is VERY sloppy and I'm looking at the same problem. Thanks, the build is going great, can't wait to see more.

[milner351]

Rob-o-matic - I'm going with a Mustang 2 set up - which means I either have to cut my steering column to retain the original, or - go with a different column.

I never drove my car - I don't know how bad the steering box is. I looked into rebuilds before finding the deal on the M2 kit, they were around $275.

[JOES66FURY]

UH OH!

anyone tried to measure stretch with a mic instead of a stretch gauge? probably going to take forever.

I do it with an outside mic...8 bolts holding a prop hub together. pretty simple process, doesnt take long...not sure what a stetch gauge is so I cant compare.

[pintoboy77]

The last motor I did I put new pistons in it that had new studs and nuts with them no need to gauge them and I also used new head bolts. Good Luck.

[milner351]

Had to be Mr.Mom last night - no garage time. I borrowed a couple ring compressors - should be able to finish up the short block, I will try the stretch method with the outside mic - maybe a bit tight - probably have to rotate the crank to measure both sides. If I come up with a torque that gets the right stretch on several bolts - may just proceed with that torque.

[gearhed1971]

I write for and run and a cnc lathe / mill all day in metric, 6 thou seems like a mile

[milner351]

I agree - that does sound like a ton - but remember these are the puny little 5/16" bolts.

Here's a copy / paste of what I found searching google for SPS bolts:

Mr. Gasket/SPS rod bolt torque specs

Part # thread size preload lbs bolt stretch applied torque
2980----------3/8-24------------9,000---------.0055”-.0065”---------47.5 to 54.0
2981----------3/8-24------------9,000---------.0065”-.0075”---------47.5 to 54.0
2982----------3/8-24------------9,000---------.0045”-.0055”---------47.5 to 54.0
2983---------5/16-24-----------6,000---------.0055”-.0065”----------23.0 to 26.0
2984----------3/8-24------------9,000---------.0055”-.0065”---------47.5 to 54.0
2985---------11/32-24----------8,000---------.0060“-.0070”---------34.0 to 40.0
2986-----------3/8-24-----------9,000---------.0060”-.0070”---------54.0 to 60.0
2987----------7/16-20-----------9,000---------.0070“-.0080”---------75.0 to 80.0
2988-----------3/8-24-----------9,000----------.0065”-.0075”---------47.5 to 54.0
2989-----------3/8-24-----------9,000----------.0065”-.0075”---------47.5 to 54.0
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-instructions:
SPS rod bolts & Nuts. “points to observe when installing new rod bolts & nuts”.

1.make sure there are NO FLAWS in the machined area where the rod bolt head seats.
---in many cases original installation of rod bolts by the manufacture is incorrect and a corner of the rod bolt head will pull metal down under the bolt head.
---this causes a high spot under the bolt head and uneven loading of the bolt head seats during
running.

2.check to make sure there is smooth flat surface for the bolt head to seat against----and the new bolt is properly installed so that it seats fully on this surface.

3.check for and remove extruded metal at the split line of the rod and the cap that are left from the rod bore machining process.
---this material can work its way between the rod and the cap causing a loss of bolt torque as the rod cap seat more firmly.

4.check the rod nut seats on the rod cap to make sure th nuts are seating fully on a flat surface.
---occasionally the spot face machining for the rod nut has too great a radius and the nut will seat on that radius.
---this will cause cocking load into the nut which can result in early failure.

5.if time and facilities permit, shot peening of the entire rod including the rod bolt and nut seat areas will considerably improve rod durability.
---it is necessary to have the rod bore “reconditioned” after shop peening.

6.whenever possible it is recommended that the “elongation or stretch method” be used when installing these rod bolt and nuts.
---it is much more accurate than the torque wrench.
---to use a micrometer to measure elongation place a small amount of clean grease into the
centering holes located on the bolt head and on the threaded end.
---insert ball bearings into this grease to measure the length.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(a)---these torque and stretch values are based on using SAE 30 weight oil on the bolt and nut
threads and the seating surfaces of the rod bolt heads and the rod nuts.
---apply torque until elongation is achieved as shown on the chart.
---AVOID OVER TORQUING.
---Rod nuts should not be installed and removed more than 5 times.
---always keep the same the rod nuts on the same rod bolt and in the same position as originally installed.
---NEVER allow the rod nut to be installed upside down.
---might be a good idea to lightly flat sand the rod nuts surfaces if they show any lines or
galling after being used.

-NOTE: these rod bolts are capable of higher preloads than those listed.
---Loads should NOT exceed the recommended preload as the bolthead may indent and imprint into the connecting rod.

[milner351]

Put a rod in the vice and checked bolt stretch as I torqued up in a few steps. 26ftlb got me .0055 - .006" of stretch, so that's what I'm going to go with as a torque spec for the rest of the rod bolts.

Unfortunately - the piston is down in the hole about .020" which yields 9.7 compression ratio assuming 60cc of the edelbrock head combustion chambers and 4cc valve reliefs in the mahle pistons, with a .040 compressed felpro head gasket.

So - if I want 10:1 or better - I have to mill the block or heads.... I'll probably just proceed with what I have.

[Beagle]

offset grind .040? grin.

[OldMachinist]

Can you get thinner head gaskets?

[milner351]

I've not found thinner head gasets that don't require o-ring for the block or heads.

I found today at the shop that the buret I ordered years ago and has been sitting around the shop un-opened - was in a million pieces - surely I dropped it or something on it over time - so - it's a total loss. No measuring head combustion chamber volume for me today.

I did get several things done on the car:

Mustang two control arms and caliper mounts sandblasted, self etch primed, and painted satin black.
Tail light panel completely stripped of all emblems, lights, and paint, also removed the rear bumper
(first 2 bolts that broke in the entire car)
Stripped the paint off the roof while it was sitting on the dolly (lower than when it's on the hoist)
Seal welded the rear "torque box" and welded the first step of the rear sub frame connector
cleaned a bunch of the driver side floor in preparation for welding in the rest of the subframe connector


Sure doesn't sound like a full days' worth of work.... but that's all I got done today.

[SuperBuickGuy]

'tis still a lot.... and stuff you won't have to do again

[BBR]

Hate to sound like a broken record, but tick tock better bust a move!!!!