no more weather delays! Rock on. hopefully there will be no vandalism/theft issues at location x.
no more weather delays! Rock on. hopefully there will be no vandalism/theft issues at location x.
The rain is keeping me from taking the block to the machine shop to get decked this week! lol.. I was reading some other stuff that says turbo cars don't care much about quench? I'm looking into that, as I may not want to deck it if that's the case. It's square enough now, I'd only cut it to get the compression. Really, as low as it is already, it's not like it will require the quench to be perfect. It'd be about .055 as is, which I am led to believe is the hairy edge of being beneficial.
Have you guys heard this turbo / quench thing before? It's new to me. I've got a fairly big turbo (for a truck motor..haha) for part two of this fiasco... might as well save the money if it's not gonna care!
Last edited by Beagle; May 30th, 2012 at 08:42 PM.
Originally Posted by Beagle
school seems to be 50 - 50 on the quench. It'll never be a high rpm motor, these are ratty old heads. I'll get it cut.![]()
Meanwhile, I was looking for bumper stickers insted of working, came up with this. One of my old bosses had a sticker like this on his office window, can you believe "they" made him take it down?
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Originally Posted by Beagle
wrap the block in plastic and take it to the machine shop - rain be damned.
that's what i do trash bags are awesome
97 Grand Prix GT sedan: Project Frankenstein 92 LeBaron Convertible: Summer cruiser
There's a bit of controversy about quench and turbo's. Personally, I'd like to see it closer than 50-55. I'd be happy at 45.
There is some thought that tight quench may not be beneficial, however, that tends to be applied to max effort applications.
If the 50-55 saves you machine shop costs, then you might want to leave it alone. This is a driver, not a racecar.
I'm still learning
The hardest part about building a turbo motor - deciding where to draw the line. Seriously, come up with a power number you want, and build the motor to that hp number. I'm sure quench makes a difference at a certain dollar level.... errr hp level (same thing in my book)... but on a 5k build, I'm not certain there will be any benefit of quench.
Here's where the issue came up with the Buick motor. When you girdle the block, you can go to roughly 1100 hp on a stock block. However, at that level, all the other parts inside are the same as what you'd use for a 2200 hp motor... simply another 2500 (tomahawk block is 5k, but it's a savings of $2500 for machine work that won't need to be done) and a new tomahawk block and you're all set.... consider those words for a moment - simply another $2500...
The first motor, 700 hp with turbos that would support 2200 hp. When I build the 2200 hp motor, all the stuff I bolt to the outside will be the same, but I don't have a billet crank, custom pistons, custom rods, custom cam, custom lifters... you get the idea.
To be clear - my opinion is forget about quench and simply build the car. When you build a full tube chassis car, worry about quench.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 31st, 2012 at 11:23 AM.
A ninja editor![]()
who's heavily into Buicks
So.... ya done yet?
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up
Instead of crickets chirping, I just hear "meeeeooooow!"
Whether you can or can't, you are usually right.
I might have run into a snag. I was getting a table cleaned off to lay out the engine parts for assembly, and the oh so beautiful Ross pistons have what looks like might be a SCJ valve relief. They're way off the side of the piston, literally off the side of it. Does anyone know if it's a problem to run this with a standard head? I guess I should clay it up and find out.
Off to read the 460 boards.
Originally Posted by Beagle