Rescue rig project

[TheSilverBuick]

Nifty. I'm always tempted to open up a regulator and try and squeeze a volt or so out of them, that would make it too easy

[SuperBuickGuy]

Nifty. I'm always tempted to open up a regulator and try and squeeze a volt or so out of them, that would make it too easy

this one you just turn the little knob on the back of the regulator (the hexish looking screw)

[SuperBuickGuy]

So, it looks good that I won't need my truck for at least 3 days; so I might as well hook up the method of its demise.... a turbo

As you might recall, I bought this turbo for cheap off CL



and now that the transmission is working well - time to turbo it (notice, I didn't say the motor was happy)
first put the alternator on it


and start clearing real estate



of course, the first bolts (the one that hold on the silencer to the exhaust manifold) is arguing with me... I suspect that this is going to be a job.... ah well

Banks turbos are a great unit, 6.2s are okay units - when combined the Banks turbo tends to cancel out the 6.2l... which is why I have another motor waiting in the wings... well, one I'm supposed to pick up with a bit of extra metal (a Suburban).

[Beagle]

so the way I understand this, it's not the air from the turbo that's gonna kill it, it's the extra fuel? How do you get extra fuel into a 6.2? By that I mean, do you crank the pump timing or ? (edit - had to look...http://flashoffroad.com/Diesel/injec...anicalpump.htm) editted question, are you planning to turn it up?

I'm led to believe they actually get better mileage with a turbo. It's an economy project, right?

Another question - how exactly are you supposed to tell when a diesel is knocking? I would be hard pressed to know. It's pretty easy with a petrol engine, but when it's already sounding like a tin can full of rocks... I just noticed that when mine has sat for a couple of days it white/grey smokes just a bit on startup. Goes away almost immediately, but I don't take that as a good sign.


/edit - ah, I think I see the bolt you are talking about. Tbe one under the 18/16ga red wire in the alternator picture? I'd soak that sucker in PB blaster, turner torch it, pray, offer blood sacrifices, and it'd still bust. I'd almost prefer to just cut them off flush, drill and tap them.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm not going to turn up the pump more, so I can only describe it. if you pull the top cover of the high-pressure pump off, down towards the back is a shaft that has an allen screw in it. That screw regulates the amount of fuel that is injected in each injection cycle (by increasing the time the fuel is injected). The instructions say turn that screw 1/4 turn to account for the extra fuel requirement of the turbo.

But you question how do you know if it's too much? actually that's the easy part. If the truck blows black smoke and overheats, it's too much fuel. If it blows white smoke, it's not enough timing. If it doesn't run, it's advanced too much *snicker* but it also knocks more (what happens is it stops the starter dead like a too-advanced gas motor) and loses power - it's pretty dramatic... 6.2 can handle 1-2* of initial timing, and that's about it - so it's rare that you can screw up by too much initial timing. If there is too much advance, you take it to your diesel pump mechanic because it's an internal fault that is (from what I understand) really tough to fix.

oh yeah, and for those who might think "I'll advance the fuel amount now that I know about that screw so I can get more power" don't. If you put the cover on wrong (and it's easy to do) you'll start the motor, and it will run away on you - and you can't shut it off because by the time you get to your ignition switch it'll be burning the aluminum on your pistons and won't shut off. Trust me, it's an awesome thing to watch - unless it's your truck (wasn't my truck so it was all good).

as for the bolt - it's coming off, one way or another, it's coming off. I'm thinking I'll start with the sawzall and then work towards more persuasive methods

[milner351]

Nice work - once you get that diesel sound combined with the whistle of the turbo - there's no going back!

Can you get to that bolt with a torch? You have much more metal working experience than I do - I picture you as one of those guys that can blow a busted bolt out of the hole with a torch and leave usable threads behind.... I'm not that good yet.

[SuperBuickGuy]

preview of bolt removal. Lift truck up, take out motor mount bolt, cut exhaust pipe, drop truck back down, lift right side up a bit, put ratchet with cheater bar on bolt, twist.

[milner351]

Sounds barbaric, wish I was there to help.
Got a 3/4" or 1" drive impact? Those things break off bolts with amazing quickness.

Does the affending exhaust pipe have to go for the turbo install anyway?

[STINEY]

Amateurs.......... I like to actually get them to move, to where they have rotated nearly a full turn or two.

Then slowly twist them off with hand tools as I realize that they seized back up again. That's the REAL way to twist a bolt off. Better for the mental wellness too.

[milner351]

nah,
someday I'm going to learn that precise burnout technique with the torch, that's impressive to watch, I think it takes not only the right technique but also jus the right combination of oxy / acet pressures and tip size.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Amateurs.......... I like to actually get them to move, to where they have rotated nearly a full turn or two.

Then slowly twist them off with hand tools as I realize that they seized back up again. That's the REAL way to twist a bolt off. Better for the mental wellness too.

While I could get the 5' cheater bar on it - there is the likelihood that I would break my A/C lines, thus rendering me blind... which would kind of defeat the whole purpose of turbo-charging a vehicle.... plus, where you live; if you wait 5 years the vehicle turns to rust-dust and the problem is solved.

Sounds barbaric, wish I was there to help.
Got a 3/4" or 1" drive impact? Those things break off bolts with amazing quickness.

Does the affending exhaust pipe have to go for the turbo install anyway?

This would require cutting a large notch in the frame to get access to the bolt - and while I certainly am capable of doing that; I suspect (I haven't done the math yet) that taking 6" out of an 8" C channel frame would negatively affect its load-carring capabilities.

John - the large plastic tube-shaped device is held by a bracket - follow that bracket to the exhaust manifolds - those are held on by two bolts... it's those bolts that are the problem... they're right by the frame so you can't get a socket on the rearmost bolt. The front one I can - but as I'd used my ratchet handle extender for pounding purposes recently, the ends are flared and my ratchet no longer slips inside - and I ran out of time last night to correct that problem

[milner351]

yea, it's never the easy to get to bolts that give you problems, it's the ones the last guy rounded off cause he didn't have the right tool to get to them that give you trouble.

I have nothing but faith in your ability to remedy the situation.

I'm still astonished that all the bolts I've removed from the falcon so far, the only ones that broke were clearly previous owner installed hardware store junk.... my favorite is the plain steel screws through the windshield molding.

[SuperBuickGuy]

a bit more progress


It's just sitting in there - there's several things I have to do to make it right - but at least now I know what the list is... tomorrow - my goal is to fire it.

[milner351]

Even with that huge vehicle, there's still 10lb of shinola in a 5lb bag. Lordy my.

The only thing that will make you feel better is looking under the hood of a new one..... it's complete recockulous.

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's amazing how detailed (and right) the instructions are, however, I'll post up my one complaint. Finding parts (like hoses) for this kit requires better Googlefu than I have.