The Silver Buick wants a garage.

[TheSilverBuick]

Bed liner that mofo!

[milner351]

The thought has crossed my mind of "painting" the roof with something - but I have to be careful with the weight. This is a wickes building that was built about as cheap as any pole building I've seen, trusses and poles are on 10ft centers with 2x4 over the trusses and the metal roof screwed to those. A decent layer of bedliner and I'd probably already be to my snow load rating with the insulation that's sprayed on the underside (open cell foam - the light stuff - icynene - not polyurethane which is heavy in comparison)

[TheSilverBuick]

After it's bedlinered, mop it with RainX! The snow will slide right off!

[DanStokes]

Mine's built like a tank due to the requirement for hurricane resistance. John - Kentucky Steel Truss (makers of my building) went to all steel including the perlins and girts to keep the screws from loosening. They found that if the builder used wood Ps & Gs the screws would eventually leak and they got complaint calls from the owner. They just use standard 2x6 steel structural galv stock which screw to clips welded to the trusses (shaped like "[" but with an extra bend at the open ends). Simple system but they had to learn in the school of hard knocks.

Randal - No idea what the doors will run you. I have the one piece of tin convoluted roll-ups and they have worked OK so far. If I understood Gene correctly they will eventually fatigue along the bend lines and then I'll have to decide how I'll replace them. Of course I don't work them like a commercial shop would. Mine were ordered with an insulating mat on the back and they're decent in that regard. They're pretty cheap and might get you started.

The concrete was the biggest single expense for mine. If your experience is anything like mine, getting the "concreto" done will increase your appreciation for our brothers from Mexico - those guys worked their butts off and did a GREAT job. I'd suggest you have them do an additional pad (maybe 20' deep and as wide as the shop) in front of the doors as it seems like there's always something that needs working on when the shop is full.

Dan

[TheSilverBuick]

I'm on the fence about concrete, particularly on how "permanent" or lack of this will be. It will be good to get the cars out of the weather, but I'm not sure I'm ready to say this lay out is for a full shop. If they can just cement in the anchors, I'll be good with that and can gravel or later pour concrete in. I'd hate to pour concrete then decide to do more dirt work and have to bust it up.

[SuperBuickGuy]

if you pour a pad, it would make zero sense not to just build the pole barn. Mine cost ~17k total (30x36), and half the cost was the floor (and that was half material, half labor)... so basically, you buy a 5k building, get it shipped 1k, pour a floor 5k plus 2.5k for labor to make it smooth.... you're at the cost of a full building. if you stick build a garage - add about 10k to the price for material and labor.

[TheSilverBuick]

That's my thought too. I'm okay at this point leaving the cars parked on dirt with a two walled carport. The orientation is right for the normal wind direction for the snow to primarily hit the side, so a side enclosure makes sense. If I went full enclosure I'd do as SBG suggest, but I'd seriously consider widening my lower pad for that.

I forgot to mention I measured out the two pads.

This one is 33ft wide and 36ft long.


This one is slightly narrower at 31ft wide and 36ft long.


The distance from the top of the berm on the lower pad to the property line (filled with knocked over trees) is an additional 32ft. So the lower pad, with fill, could be pushed out an additional 30ft or so feet to make a 60ftx36ft foot print, though that fill would likely come at the expense of the upper pad, so the lower pad would be that much wider. The alternative that has been mentioned is a "pseudo" basement, build a cinder block wall foundation up to the lower level, and make an awesome ~60ft x 36ft shop with half having a basement....

[oldsman71]

I hope it works out for you I got a while until I get even close to a garage

[SuperBuickGuy]

I know in my neck of the woods they'd (the inspectors) would have a coronary with the wall unsupported (max is 4'-0 without engineering).

I'll stick with my original suggestion - cut to the bank, cinder block on 3 sides and a flat, steel I beam roof on top. I beams would cost about 2-4k each (30') and you'd need one every 10'. Alternatively, look in California for some used trusses (homes that were going to be built, but not) and build your walls to the width of the trusses. About the time I was building my building, I found 14 trusses for $500, 24' width 6/12 pitch ..... was so tempting...

[CTX-SLPR]

Did anyone watch the new Mythbuster's yesterday? They used spray on bedliner on a variety of things to see how tough it was. The coolest one was they sprayed it on plywood and it practically became bomb proof (the explosive blew right through untreated plywood) and they did the same for a cinderblock wall, where the explosives blew apart the untreated wall and the bedlined wall came out pretty much unscathed. It was pretty neat, that stuff is tough!

Didn't watch it but we've been using Rhinoliner for years to reduce spaulding (where the inside of something blows off due to an external hit) off of cinder blocks, ceramic body armor, and plywood. Not sure who came up with the idea but that we took some thin Ti plates and coated them and it would stop way more powerful rounds than the raw plate would.

[SuperBuickGuy]

email this posting to a friendseattle craigslist > seattle > for sale / wanted > tools
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Date: 2011-11-02, 8:38PM PDT
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25 X 40 metal building by US buildings. This building is complete, still on the pallet, never been erected. All manuals and engineer drawings included. I paid $10,500 for this building and realized it was too small for my needs. Call 360-740-0203

Location: Chehalis

[TheSilverBuick]

For a real structure the terraces would have to have a retaining wall or some other engineering control, I certainly agree.

[SuperBuickGuy]

I had the space to put the shop, but I (and still will do if we stay here in Seattle) will cut the bank to 90 degrees and build a wall then tie the wall to the shop - that will almost double my square footage - but it won't be temperature controlled. That said, in your area, having 3 walls mostly in the dirt would make heating and cooling the shop a breeze.

[JeffMcKC]

Have you thought about using one way storage containers? you can just keep getting bigger and stack as time goes on.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/bfs/2633672179.html

http://www.tsicontainers.com/tsi/container.htm

I have seen them cheap on craigs list

[TheSilverBuick]

Containers are $4500 here. I've signed the invoice for four of them this year here at the mine.