Next time you hit the yard, look at 76 ishy Cougar, LTD 2 and that family.. They bolt on the tubed like the Camaro ones do and you can bolt the front by your control arm mount.. It made all the difference in the 57, wheel hop eliminted and the thickness of my hand to the lip never rubbed.. Camaro/Firebirds are thicker, but narrower, if I remember right..
Rebeldryver's '70 Caprice Granny's Luxo-Muscle-Barge
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After the wiring is back to somewhat useful on the Impala, I am going to pull the 454 once again. Everyone I talked to smarter than me thinks the consensus on my engine's lifter racket is from the oil getting aerated somehow.
My plan is this, using my work discount for parts, get a 7 quart Milodon pan, pickup screen, Melling M77HV pump, and new Clevite rod and main bearings. All stuff we use for our 496's. I have a windage tray and the ARP studs for them. I think using a standard oil pump and the original pickup screen may be the problem. Some also say the lack of a windage tray is too. My original oil has only the baffle. I will take my lifters into work and have them checked that they are working correctly as well.
Any opinions out there?
Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 18, 2014, 06:04 PM.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Hey Gentlemen, Been lurking on your thread for a little while Scott and finally decided to join. I'm working on a 1970 Imp custom coupe with the 300hp 350. got in a little fiasco when my brakes decide to not like me anymore so it's not quite as straight as it was, but after i find a trunk lid i can get it back nice-ish!!!! It's my first car been working on it since I was 13 and I'll be 20 in june.......Edit: forgot to mention my parents used my college fund to buy it for me when i was only 4.....1 PhotoLast edited by Casey the Impala guy; April 19, 2014, 01:36 AM.1970 Impala custom coupe tree fiddy/ turbo tree fiddy (Daily road yacht)
1966 C-10 SWB fleetside tree fiddy figh/ four speed( in pieces)Comment
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Casey, it's looking really good. Welcome to BS. Please post more pics of your Impy for us.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Took the car in for an alignment today because it hasn't driven right for a while. I knew it was toed out due to it's tendency to wander and be a bit darty when turning.
I gave him the specs I wanted for the alignment. 4* positive caster, 1* positive camber, and 1/8" toe in each side. He looked at the factory specs and thought I was crazy, 1/2* positive caster, 1/4* positive camber and a lot more toe in.
The nice thing about this car's suspension set up is that it has the ability to add a ton of caster and camber if you want. The mechanic wasn't sure it would work, but when he took it for a drive afterwards, I had convinced him. Big improvement over what it was.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Thanks for the welcome, Here's how it looks after my accident (No frame damage luckily!) I just need to find a decklid to get the rear pulled out and the 1/4 should straighten back out. And then I'll need to patch the outer wheel house and the 1/4. But the 1/4 is the last thing I'll worry about I still drive the car daily if t's not raining.Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostCasey, it's looking really good. Welcome to BS. Please post more pics of your Impy for us.1 PhotoLast edited by Casey the Impala guy; April 19, 2014, 10:20 AM.1970 Impala custom coupe tree fiddy/ turbo tree fiddy (Daily road yacht)
1966 C-10 SWB fleetside tree fiddy figh/ four speed( in pieces)Comment
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Hey Scott, that sway bar looks great ! Does your car have Disc brakes ? And if so, what are the drum/rotor sizes?61 Olds 88, 69 Plymouth Roadrunner, 68 Pontiac Firebird, 95 Buick Roadmaster LT1Comment
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Got it, and replied, thanks for the offer!!!!!1970 Impala custom coupe tree fiddy/ turbo tree fiddy (Daily road yacht)
1966 C-10 SWB fleetside tree fiddy figh/ four speed( in pieces)Comment
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Originally posted by Casey the Impala guy View PostThanks for the welcome, Here's how it looks after my accident (No frame damage luckily!) I just need to find a decklid to get the rear pulled out and the 1/4 should straighten back out. And then I'll need to patch the outer wheel house and the 1/4. But the 1/4 is the last thing I'll worry about I still drive the car daily if t's not raining.
Interesting you have a '69 rear bumper on your car. My car is hiding a '69 passenger door.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Yes, it has the original 12" discs up front and stock sized drums. I think they are 9 1/2" x 2"Originally posted by NASBackyard View PostHey Scott, that sway bar looks great ! Does your car have Disc brakes ? And if so, what are the drum/rotor sizes?BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Yeh I pulled it off my rusty ass parts car to see how bad it was bent up, I gave 100 buck for a complete 69 impala, 327/aluminum PG and 12 bolt drums all the way, But the only usable sheet metal on the car was the fenders all the trim was pretty much good and some of the glass and both bumpers. Great deal!! and when I haul the rest off PROFIT!!!Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostInteresting you have a '69 rear bumper on your car. My car is hiding a '69 passenger door.1970 Impala custom coupe tree fiddy/ turbo tree fiddy (Daily road yacht)
1966 C-10 SWB fleetside tree fiddy figh/ four speed( in pieces)Comment
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Originally posted by Scott Liggett View PostTook the car in for an alignment today because it hasn't driven right for a while. I knew it was toed out due to it's tendency to wander and be a bit darty when turning.
I gave him the specs I wanted for the alignment. 4* positive caster, 1* positive camber, and 1/8" toe in each side. He looked at the factory specs and thought I was crazy, 1/2* positive caster, 1/4* positive camber and a lot more toe in.
The nice thing about this car's suspension set up is that it has the ability to add a ton of caster and camber if you want. The mechanic wasn't sure it would work, but when he took it for a drive afterwards, I had convinced him. Big improvement over what it was.
Positive camber? Or do you mean negative camber. Yeah, the same alignment issues pop up on the Mustang forum too. I'm suppose to have 0* caster and 1/4* positive camber according to factory specs. Also finding shops that listen to you is another problem. When I did my 66's front suspension with all that fancy tubular control arms, I began to wonder where I was going to find a shop to set it to my specs. I finally decided the only way I was going to get what I wanted was to do my own alignment. I have my caster set to 3.5* positive caster,camber is 1 3/8* negative with 1/16" toe in. Car drives frinken awesome! One of the issues with a bias ply car with radial tires is that radials run a little egg shape, moving the contact patch farther back reducing overall caster.
I need to install a bump steer kit because I'll be using later model disc brakes with slightly different geometry. I'm going to bump caster to 5* pos. One thing you may want to check before adding a lot of camber is the arc the lower control arm follows from the strut rod. On Mustangs more then about 2* kills the lower control arm bushing. On my car it's not an issue because I have mono ball bearing.TomOverdrive is overrated
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