i have never seen a 7.3L opened up like that. we no longer rebuild as it's cheaper to just get a new crate from ford then it is to have it rebuilt by a dealer.
Looks great, John. You are a hard worker - hope Mrs. John appreciated you.
Tip on lifting the assembly w/chainfall. Find a couple of 2X4s that will reach from the floor to the bottom of the rafters. Wedge them in just to the outside of where the truck goes. Even better, find some 4X4s or similar stock, attach under the rafters you have the chainfall suspended by, and then wedge this piece to the floor with the afore-mentioned 2X4s. This will reduce the engine's moment arm and make your rig much stronger. Think I've done WAY too much of this kind of stuff? This is a method I used often in the Ann Arbor shop (John's seen it on a drive-by) before I got the shop crane.
Dan
I took the lazy way out - I borrowed the neighbors ranger - drove to my shop - folded up my cherry picker, and brought it home.
Today - after playing drums at church, I went to the shop twice - once for the cherry picker, then again after I realized I was missing the rear cover bolts >.
I had to pull the engine off the engine stand to install the rear cover and rear main seal, then put it back on the stand, install the front cover, oil pump pick up, and oil pan, oil pump (the pump came as a complete assembly, inner gear, outer gear, housing, seal, gasket). I didn't end up using the new seal ring for the balancer, cause I couldn't devise a way to get the old one off - and the old one didn't look too bad - I'm still not sure if I need the seal ring for the back of the crank - I'll inspect that more closely when it's off the stand again.
This all sounds like not a big deal - but it's sort of stressful set of operations - as everything has to be surgically clean to make sure the $$$ sealant will stick, then - once out of the tube -you have THREE MINUTES to get things mated and together.... so you'd better have everything in order and ready to ROCK once you start "caulking".
After assembly - I sprayed a can's worth of duplicolor cast aluminum engine paint on the whole mess. Tomorrow I can put on the oil cooler, then flip it over and put the heads on - once I have the bolts.
Three minutes ticking away and you still found time to take a picture for us :D Thanks! that's a hell of a pick up tube, what's the diameter? 1.25"?
Must be the lighting, because the color looks a little bronze'ish. I was waiting for the aluminum color from the exhaust high-temp paint. That paint is down right reflective (until you hit it with clear :P)
Yea - the lighting in the garage aint all that - after putting 15 gallons of primer and paint onto the old dingy dark brown faded horrible dry wall that was on the walls when we bought the place - I proceeded to put 100w light bulbs into all the fixtures in the ceiling - there's more than a dozen 100w bulbs up there - and that makes the pics look yellow. I finally put the 4ft fluorescent fixture over the window, and I have two 8ft fluorescents in the box - that I haven't made time to put up yet. It seems in a shop no matter how white the walls and ceiling are and how much light you have - more light would be nice! So - I got the drop light from the shop and brought it home with me too for "task lighting" as required for detail work.
Yea - I had the camera ready to go before I put the caulk on - hopefully - I know I put on allot - but hopefully its enough - if this thing leaks - I will be more than a little upset.
that's the size of a header primary for a 4 cylander lol
Yea - the oil system on these things are more than your average engine.
Keep in mind - it hols 14 quarts.
The oil pump in the front cover driven directly off the crank is the "lube oil" pump - it supplies the lubrication to the engine parts as a normal engine would, however - it also supplies oil to the "high pressure" oil pump that is gear driven off the cam gear at the top of the engine - that pump takes the pressure up to over 3000 psi - sends it to the oil galleys in the heads - where it is used to "fire" the injectors (which are electronically controlled) that push the fuel directly into the cylinders - right at the "crown" of the "mexican hat" in the middle of the pistons. After being used to actuate the injectors - the oil flies out of the injector return port aimed straight down the head galley to the oil pan.
All this is the reason oil is so damned important in these engines - using good oil, good filters, and when you can afford it - a bypass oil filter system (that I hope to install someday) that filters the oil at a partial flow rate down to a couple microns - makes a lot of sense on these diesels, as does synthetic oil.
I'm going to run conventional 15w-40 oil for the first 1000 miles or so, to break things in properly - then switch over to synthetic 5w-40 before winter.
Wish me luck guys - we're going to start on the boat house roof tomorrow - the head bolts should be in tomorrow night/Tuesday morning - then I'll finish assembly and bring the engine to Chuck on Wednesday - and with any luck - the truck will be running Friday or Saturday.... and the boat house roof will be done by then too..... a guy can dream! ;D
do you know of the trick to get the oil out of the high pressure resavour? if you switch from conventional to synthetic you should get the oil ot of that
do you know of the trick to get the oil out of the high pressure resavour? if you switch from conventional to synthetic you should get the oil ot of that
Mighty vac?
Tom - do you know if the hard fuel lines that run from the HPOP to the heads are available from Ford? One of them bent pretty badly when I was taking it off. I'm not sure if the ends are any kind of special thread or if the line is something that can be purchased and then bent up - maybe a hydraulic shop? It's pretty thick wall stuff and maybe stainless? After all this I don't want to be held up by a kinked fuel line!
Thanks - hopefully the dealer will be able to get me the one I need - once I figure out which one it is. :
I didn't make any progress on the engine monday - but - we did get the entire boat house framing up - 13 trusses, purlins 2ft OC, and 2x6 fascia boards, - all level and straight .... then it rained overnight - and they're predicting scattered t-storms all day - so - no progress on that today - and all that untreated lumber will get wet - oh well.
Should have the head bolts tonight - with any luck I can get the engine assembled and delivered to Chuck Wednesday.
Well - strike one for the local carter lumber - they've always been good to deal with but on this project - they left me hanging on a few things - there's a bunch of custom trim that's supposed to go along with the standing seam roofing material I got - but they didn't order any of it with the roofing - and the roofing took almost a month longer than they said it would to come in.
SO - Frank's going to have to get creative with his aluminum brake and make up the trim pieces.
I have ONE set of head bolts and the AC accumulator, hopefully the other napa will have the other set for me to pick up on my way home - and I'll be able to put the heads on tonight.
Then I still have to replace all the o-rings in the fuel filter housing drain valve, the IPR o-rings, mount the high pressure pump resevoir, pump, glow plugs, injectors, pushrods, rocker arms...
Not sure I'll get it all done tonight, but I'm going to give it a shot.
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