BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)

[TheSilverBuick]

Nice. Going for the long haul!

[Beagle]

Myth no more! It looked too far out in the picture? How'd you fix it?

[BBR]

I just spaced the wp pulley and the alternator out. The mis-alignment was really only a little more than 1/8th inch.

[BBR]

Dag nabbit.... done in by the "Reply to Thread" button....

Ok so as I was saying....

Looks like the only place I can mount the O2 is on the inside of the header tube. The outsides are currently occupied by evac tubes that I am not using right now. It will be partially under the trans pan, but I guess that's not a big deal. Getting into position to weld the bung might be an issue. I'd hate to have to drop a header to weld it, but I guess I will if I have to.

<<<must click Post Quick Reply>>>>

[BBR]

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_2.htm

Any aftermarket thermostat housing that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat location, or that mount the radiator cap in the top coolant hose, are NOT recommended. Both of those housing styles are poorly designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM.

I put a rad cap adapter in my top hose for a high fill point and put a 22-24lb cap in it in the hopes it would not push water. No dice, it still pushes water past it. I also thought the smaller pulley would help.

Anybody know what psi the high pressure side of the cooling system reaches normally?

I stuck a gauge in the top of the thermostat housing on mine and at idle (1100 rpm) it's at 15 psi and if you blip the throttle to ~4000 it goes up to 20-ish, then drops back down to 15.

I suppose this could be rectified by going to an electric water pump though.

[Beagle]

it'd look ugly I guess, but can you put an overflow line back to the puke tank in your high point adapter? I'd be worried the electric would just make it leak all the time.

/edit - you've got a cap on the radiator too?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stant-Hi...af8df3&vxp=mtr

28-32 pound cap.

[BBR]

I took the cheap way out and I just plugged the puke line off the adapter with a bolt and a hose clamp.

The rad has a 16lb cap on it.

[BBR]

AEM wideband is hooked up and functional! Whoo Hoo! I really like the analog gauge, I just kinda wish it swept the opposite direction.

At cold idle the AFR is hovering at 15-15.5 and then drops to 14-14.5 when the engine temp is around 180. Just cruising it is 13 and when you hammer on it, it goes to 9.5. Yowza. I knew it was rich, but didn't know it was *that* rich. haha

I am going to pull the air cleaner off and see what change that has on it. It's my gut feeling that the AFR will go up significantly because I think this filter just does not have enough surface area and I also think the carb vent tubes may be too close to the air cleaner lid.

It might be time for a cowl hood so I can get a taller filter in this pig.

[milner351]

cowl hoods should be a dime a dozen for Fox mustangs - is there a big difference in hood between the "four eye" and "aero headlight" cars?

[BBR]

The front lip of the hood is different. The aero cars are rounded and 4 eyes have a sharp body line.

A buddy has a hood he will sell me, but the car budget is a bit strained at the moment. Arrrg. Maybe I need to list some junk on CL! haha

[BBR]

Man, I l-o-v-e having a wideband in this thing! In retrospect, if I had just bought this kind of wideband instead of the JAW thingy, the MS would have been cake.

Jetted it down yesterday at lunch to 83/93. Idle afr was the same as before, but cruise went to 13.5-13.75, and WOT was 11.5. I am keeping a log of air temp, engine temp, and afr's, etc. So I can get an idea of "how much jet change does what".

I also got a call from a buddy asking me if I wanted a drum-drum 8.8, a disc to disc Mustang k-member, and a Wild Rides S-box torque box for the price of "haul it off"! Score! Going to go pick it up this evening.

What's funny is, a few days ago I was thinking that I should pick up a spare 8.8 just in case of a failure before DW or if I decide to go to a taller rear gear (3.27-3.55 from the current 3.90 maybe). I have also been wanting to swap some uncut front coil springs in to get the nose of the car up just a little. Whoo Hoo!

[STINEY]

Now that is timing! Did you try thinking that money should fall from the sky? If not, try it! You are on a roll!

Man, I l-o-v-e having a wideband in this thing! In retrospect, if I had just bought this kind of wideband instead of the JAW thingy, the MS would have been cake.

On the wideband thing.....just which one did you buy again? I'll be ordering one in the near future, this is what I'm leaning towards.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-kit-lc1-blue-db-gauge-3795-p-153.html

Any input in your experience to say Yea or Nea?

[BBR]

Mega-Millions is next!!

I bought an AEM 30-5130 for a few of reasons.

1. Price ~170-180
2. Analog gauge
3. Does not require free air calibration
4. Will output data to an ECM

On the analog gauge vs. digital number display: It's MUCH MUCH easier for me to see the needle trending rich or lean and mentally process that, than to read digital numbers and anticipate which way it is trending. I can glance at the needle and know if I am fine, rather than having to read "12.5" and then think "ok? yes no?" haha

[milner351]

Huge score - you got a whole new undercarriage for nothing! SWEET!

I like your analogue gauge explanation - I feel the same way. There's an elegant simplicity to the race car set up with the gauges all turned wonky to the unkowing eye - Until you realize that each one is turned so "needle straight up" is ok, making a quick sweep of the eye all required to keep tabs all systems.

[TheSilverBuick]

On the wideband thing.....just which one did you buy again? I'll be ordering one in the near future, this is what I'm leaning towards.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-kit-lc1-blue-db-gauge-3795-p-153.html

Any input in your experience to say Yea or Nea?

I have an LC-1 in the Thunderbird and the Skylark. They are the only type I've used so I really don't have any comparison to reference it against. I did have one LC-1 go out on me after 2 years. Just up an quit, wasn't the sensor. Otherwise it's been perfect. The replacement one I got was the one you linked with the gauge. The gauge is still sitting in the box =P

I'm with BBR and Milner351, there is something about analog that is nice. I hadn't given it any thought until BBR mentioned it, but the only time I'm ever looking at the AFR's is in analog gauge form in TunerStudio through the MegaSquirt.