I have heard (and may be wrong about it) that you can run power rack with the fluid drained as a manual, this was from a guy at delphi who built racks.Originally Posted by BigBlockRanger
I have heard (and may be wrong about it) that you can run power rack with the fluid drained as a manual, this was from a guy at delphi who built racks.Originally Posted by BigBlockRanger
Originally Posted by Shawn Anderson
Or, just loop the hoses.
I have a red door panel from an '89... probably no good to you - as I don't have the other side!
I also have some quarter windows from the the '89-'90 era - again - probably not much use to you... but either of these are yours for the shipping.
Kenny Brown out of Indianapolis makes some really nice weld in frame connector systems for these cars - I used them on my '90. They tie in the seat mounts. He also sells some square tube type "jacking rails" that weld to the hem flange along the inside of the rocker panel where it meets the floor - these not only allow you to jack up the car anywhere along the hem flange without worrying about caving it in - but also add more rigidity to the unibody - he then sells another part that ties these two together.
Of course - with your mad skills - you can fab all this stuff up from scratch just fine.
Since it has some severe lack of roof issues - I would strongly suggest adding at least a single hoop at the B pillar to add some more strength to the unibody - and if you ever plan to run slicks - reinforce the upper control arm mounts - somebody makes a kit and calls them "battle boxes" basically reinforces that whole section of floor so you're much less likely to pull the upper mounts right out of the floor when the slicks bite hard out of the whole.
ENJOY!
Check out post 38 in Morgan's Mustang thread - he's done just what I described above - tied together the hem flange to the subframe connectors...
I have the Maximum Motorsports 6 point in my 'Stang. It fit perfectly and stiffened the car amazingly. Mine has no top at all and was a flexin' fool. Now I can open and close the doors with the car jacked up - a little sticky but it can be done. I have a lot of Maximum Motorsports stuff on my 'Stang and it's great stuff that does what they say it will - I heartily recommend them.
Dan
I was looking at the Max Motorsports stuff last week. Looks like good stuff.
John -> I was thinking about the quarter window swap, but after looking into it, it looks like it may be more trouble than I want to mess with.
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up
i want an 87-93 gt or lx notch so bad
i do like the 4-eyes stangs a lot though ;)
I'm with you on the "notch".Originally Posted by 1988montecarloss
400lbs lighter, and stiffer than any other variation of that chassis.
My kids like the 4 eyes better than the aero nose cars. lol I like them both, but I think 4 eyes are pretty cool. Title on this car says 3100#.
As far as just running the power rack unhosed, I've read that they are pretty hard to steer and with the weight of the big motor hanging out there, I think it will be a bit much.
I can't wait to get the Ranger out of the shop!
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up
Originally Posted by min301
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Yep. It also has some FMS aluminum vc's on it.
1983 Mustang GT 545/C6 - 10.56 @ 127.38 - www.foureff.com - Four Eyed Fords Forum
Drag Week 2012 - Street Race BB N/A runner-up