That interior looks great. Amazing what a little scrubbing and painting can do. Keeping the interior clean makes such a huge difference on appearance of the car.
The exhaust spring seats were cut 0.050" at some point and I think it is because the exhaust valves have 0.350" stem lengths instead of the normal 0.250" (like the intake valves are). They would have done that to get the I.H. right.
I think these were originally purchased as bare heads since they have 2.25" intake valves, Manley guide plates and the shorter BBC type rocker studs on them. Not a big deal, I will probably swap the studs for the longer Ford specific ones so the poly-lock set screw is not so far down in a hole though.
The intake ports are very very clean as are the water jackets. The jackets are so clean, they do not even look like water was ever in them. Exhaust ports and chambers are typically sooty looking.
Springs are an unknown. The seller did not know what springs they are. All I know is they are dual springs with a red stripe. haha I guess I could take them to the local race shop and have the spring pressure checked just to see what they are. I plan to just run a set of Comp 954's, set the IH at 1.95" so I will end up with 0.095" before coil bind which should be about right.
Good news on the heads - might as well have the springs checked - they may work just fine for you.... or if they don't you'll know what they are so you can sell them.
BYE BYE POWER BRAKES! I'm sure there's a manual set up or hydroboost set up that's already been figured out for a 460 fox.
HEADERS?
I'm guessing a 4" cowl hood would fit that monster under it.... do you have any other hood plans?
You should be able to find one of those even used some place... they're pretty common - but I still like the way they look.
The later V8 models have a skinnier, longer booster I will use. The SN95's have a hydroboost that would work, but I'd rather keep it simple and not have a power steering pump to deal with. Actually, I think I could squeeze a stock style valve cover in there, but I kinda like my tall ones. I wish somebody made a self-contained hydroboost that ran off 12 volts or something.
I already have Hooker headers for it. You can see them hanging from the rafters in one of the pics. I picked them up from a guy that installed them, then decided to go turbo, so they are essentially new but with a few dings and scratches.
The hood is kinda up in the air right now. That factor air filter is very large in diameter. I don't think a drop base 14" one will quite stick up as high as this one does, but I sure do think it would be cool to keep the factory one. Original plan was to use a 2" cowl and then put the factory 83 GT reverse scoop on it to maintain the stockish look. We'll just have to see what works.
You can move the brake pedal pivot point in the factory bracket down about 1 1/2", there is a factory hole provided.
I did that and moved the pin for the pushrod up on the pedal arm approx 2" as well. You can't see that in the picture because I welded the old hole up and ground it smooth.
That and a cheap adapter block to mount the factory power master cylinder did the trick for me.
Here you can see the old hole where the power brake pivot point is located (on the bracket, not the arm). I moved mine down to the manual hole.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Yep. Cannabalized the power booster (it gets ugly getting the rod out of it, be creative) for its rod, then measured what I needed and welded the two halves together.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Ok, so I decided to mock up the headers last night. Driver's side dropped in, no biggie. Whoo hoo. Passenger side... uh, not so much.
These are multi-piece headers so I pulled off the removable tubes (first two cylinders... remember that, because I didn't). Mess around with it take a bunch of pics to see where I am hitting, what might need a small dent to clear the k-member or bell housing, etc. I jack around with that for a good 45 minutes or more. So it's mignight, I'm ready to call it a night when I am looking at it and think to myself, "Where does that removable #4 tube come from?" Then it hit me. I had the headers shifted one port to the front! When I put them in, the tubes were close to the 2&3 ports so I just assumed that's where they went. > Crap! So I basically wasted a hour trying to figure out how to mount a header where it didn't belong....FREAKIN' REMOVABLE TUBES!!!!!
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