Viper V10 in a Mustang

[BangShift Forum Admin]

http://www.bangshift.com/blog/Viper-V10-in-a-Mustang.html

[STINEY]

Wild & cool. 

Shoulda' used a 4-eye though..... 

[hoosiergta]

I'm not sure it's a sane thing to turbo that thing . Awesome !

[62-impala-ss]

Very cool
Great workmanship and design.

[mlcraven]

I can appreciate the creativity and workmanship, and acknowledge it was a big part of the hobby in its formative years, but at a certain basic level I just can't get excited about the inter-brand body-engine mating thing in post-1960 models.

There are, of course, a select few exceptions:

(1) swapping mega-torque Caddie motors into other GM brands;

(2) N American V8s into foreign sports cars;

(3) re-powered Willys/Jeeps, and

(4) anything V-configured (and Rolls-Royce Merlins in particular) into farm tractors.

[NITMARE]

What's up guys that's my project actually.

Thanks for the kind words. It's really starting to come along nicely.

mlcraven - some like motor swaps and some don't. I am the farthest thing from a purist so if I get an idea in my head of something I want to do and I think it will be cool then I run with it....knowing some will like it and some will hate it

[mlcraven]

Yup, I understand...like I said, it's a real expression of creativity and workmanship -- even craftsmanship and art.  And at the end of the day that's partly what the hobby's all about.

Given the demise of the traditional big displacement torque-monster gasoline engines, very likely it's the V10's day in the sun.

[NITMARE]

New updates posted...figured I would start posting them here as well

OK, I know it's been a few days but I finally got some progress. I got the caster camber plates made which you can see bolted on. They are a pretty simple yet effective design. I had the "flange pieces" cut out of 1/4" steel with my buddies CNC plasma cutter and then I had the cylinders that the struts go through machined to accept the spherical bushings that the struts bolt to...I had planned to have them powder coated but I liked how they looked so much that I hit them with a scuff pad to put some grain in the steel and shot 'em with some clear coat.

Got the master cylinder bolted in and ALL the hardlines plumbed from front to back. I have the hardlines that come off of the Hydroboost system at a buddies shop getting AN fitting brazed on so I can just use standard AN fittings and braided line to mate the Ford system with the Mopar pump lines.

Also I have the motor bolted in as you can see. Sorry the pics are so shitty but I JUST snapped them quick on my way out so that I would have something to post...I'll take some better ones in the A.M. I at least tried to get a couple so you could see just how tight the clearances are pretty much everywhere.


(P.S. I know the car is filthy, I don't want to hear about it :mad:)

[Freiburger]

Thanks a lot for joining and sharing! Bitchin' project.

[NITMARE]

Thanks for having me!

[NITMARE]

10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag pretty much sums it up...

Some better pics as promised...starting to look like something now

[Remy-Z]

Dude...it's insane. Absolutely unreal...

[NITMARE]

Thanks Remy

[nosbaby]

Wow.... here I am in Des Moines and I hear about this from guys in Cali!  Guess I need to keep my ears open more. I've never even heard of NiteMare Motorsports.    I hate not being in the car biz anymore.

[NITMARE]

Nosbaby, You're not totally out of the loop. We haven't opened out doors yet. Keep your eyes open around February


And some updates

Ok, so I am done under the hood for awhile until some parts show up so it's time to wrap up the interior. The roll cage is my design, I did every bend and weld on it.it's not really built around any class in particular so it's a hodge podge of different styles that will be both effective and have some style to it. The basic cage is a 10 pint drag car style and then the door bars have a more road race inspired feel. It's all 1 1/2" tubing with 1" kickers. The double door bars are there for two reason. 1) I think it looks cool. 2) P.I.T. maneuvers happen     I MIG welded this cage as I don't need it certified. The welds are all good but my anal retentive tendencies took over and I decided that I wanted to smooth out all the welds...that was a bad idea. I would say I have about 4-5 days into this process. It's been the most painstaking part of the build and I'm not totally sure it was worth smoothing them out...oh well it's almost done now. Also you will see a layer of "Cool-It" thermo blocker and that will be covered by Dynamat sound deadener. I want this to be a hard core performing car without feeling like it when you're just cruising down the road. I'm envious every time I get into a new car and noticing how smooth and quiet they are....The cage is just in gray primer for now. I bought some John Deere agriculture cast gray enamel today that I am going to thin out a little and shoot with my gun. I hate how cages always get scratched within a week of climbing in and out and I am hoping the enamel holds up better.

I still need to weld in the cross bar behind the dash and do the driver side door bars...I have to fit the dash a couple more times and I REALLY don't want to have to lift the damn thing over those bars more then one time

Anyway, here's some pics...civic wanted - it's kind of hard to tell but can you see in those pics how the harness bar sits about 4 inches behind the main hoop? That allowed me to lay the seat back at a more comfortable angle. Is that what you are wanting?













Also here is a shot of the panels that I used to tie the cage to the A-pillars of the car. This should literally not let any of the unibody move separately from the cage/frame