Solid mounts

[greenXpress]

Will be changing out my headers and was wondering about solid mounts. I am currently running stock motor mounts and they have held up since 2012. About 10,000 miles. Is there any performance advantage to running solid mounts and are there any dis-advantages to having them for daily driving. I ran them in my 56, but it was a dedicated track car. I know this should be in the tech section, but you DW folks know street / strip combos the best.

[squirrel]

Older design mounts (like from the 1960s) tend to break under severe use and let the engine move a whole bunch, so solid mounts are a good idea on those cars. But the mounts in your truck are encapsulated, the engine won't move very much if they break. Also, you can get urethane mounts, which really limit movement, but allow a little bit of vibration damping.

I cheated on my Chevy II, I have stock mounts on the pass side and transmission, and a solid mount on the driver side. Lets the engine move around a little to keep from breaking stuff, but doesn't let it twist up (torque reaction) and break the driver side mount.

[STINEY]

The chassis will react quicker with solid mounts.

I like squirrels' method....best compromise.

Solids will transmit more noise and vibration, but most of us will not even notice. Probably enjoy that extra noise/movement more than be annoyed by it. The OEM do their best to keep that stuff to a minimum so Grandma is happy with her purchase.

My solids in the Cadistang. Affordillac engineering on parade.

[TheSilverBuick]

I think these two have it covered.

I'd go with the poly mounts if available in your application. I'm considering going to a solid mount on my Firebird because OE mounts are not made anymore, not for performance reasons.

[STINEY]

Randall, you can "Pour-your-own" urethane mounts. The import guys do this a lot.

Burn the rubber out of your factory mounts, tape them up to hold the liquid urethane, and mix it up and pour it in. Relatively cheap to do too. The restoration guys to this as well, unobtainium parts and all, like you said.

[TheSilverBuick]

I wonder how well self poured urethane holds onto a plate of steel. I can see it working awesome on a bolt through mount where it's a donut shaped bushing, but on just a pancake between two sheets of metal I wonder how good the bit is on the home brew's pour.

[STINEY]

Drill holes for more bite? Drill holes and add some loose fitting bolts for a "bridge" between the plates and to add more bite?

[BlueCuda340]

I had some solid mounts in my car and didn't like them. However this 360 is no high end balance job either. I went with rubber mounts and a torque strut with a bushing that works awesome.

I'm with Jim though, your stock style mounts will hold a lot and if they fail your motor isn't going anywhere.

The first time I killed a motor mount in my car it torqued the motor over and pulled the power brake vacuum line off LOL.

[ksj2]

Clark,Tried these? http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/Pr...e/PolyLoc.html

[BlueCuda340]

Schumacher torque strap means I won't ever need those. It's a nice piece for $80. Some point on dw 2013 I lost my drivers side motor mount nut, I ran the whole week and a few races later with just the torque strut holding the motor in on the drivers side.

[squirrel]

the $80 torque strut on my 55

[BlueCuda340]

I used to have one of those, I opted to ditch it when I went to aluminum heads.

[Orange65]

I would use poly mounts and a torque strap. However, I have read numerous accounts of higher horsepower engines preferring an engine plate. This removes all the stress of the motor mounts from the side of the block. In Olds engines I have seen engine mounts crack blocks. In BBC's, I think the horsepower level that this would be a concern is on up around 1000 from what I have read.

All a solid mount is going to get you is less movement of the engine- it will still apply the same forces on the block as the rubber mount. It will also dampen vibration less.

[1bad68]

I went from a squishy rubber mounts with a chain to poly mounts.... poly felt similar to solid just not as harsh ....big difference when chain was off or loose could watch engine flopping around through cowl hood

[CDMBill]

I use factory mounts on the '71 with a torque link I fabricated with a rod end at the engine and a pair of thin urethane shock absorber bushings in stud type mount at the chassis. no issues to date after 10 years, virtually no torque movement or rotation on launch or other times. Poly trans mount. BTW there are no poly mounts for my car.