Holley Dominator on street

[greenXpress]

Found a 3 circuit 1050 and an fixin to get it on the old truck. The metering block are not drilled for power valves and was wondering if anyone out there is driving around without power valves.

[nesabo]

I believe BBR is running one on his BBF in the mustang.

[BlueCuda340]

If you get it to work good wide open it will likely be very rich at cruise. I do not know much about dominators but you might be able to change blocks on the front to add a PV. The PV is what adds fuel under load so the main jet doesn't have to be so big, this allows a leaner cruise setting.

The alternative would be to swap jets before you get on the road, find a jet that lets it cruise leaner and then swap the larger jet in at the track. Balancing the power valve channel size and the main jet on my 830CFM has given me about a 13.5mpg average accross 3 drag weeks.

[BBR]

I run a PV in the front and none in the rear. The single best thing I did was go here: http://racingfuelsystems.myfunforum....703bbd3abc43dd and soak it up. Drilling and tapping the idle transfer slots for set screw "jets" was a huge part of taming it for the street.

I converted my 3 circuit to a 2 circuit and changed the linkage to the progressive linkage. Makes it work like a really big 4150.

Here's my build: http://racingfuelsystems.myfunforum....topic.php?t=70

[greenXpress]

James, those are some great links, Thanks. Did you run the soft progressive then switch to the regular? I only have the 1:1 cam and will be ordering another before I go on the street.
Clark, I might have to take a trip to T town so I can pick your brains on getting this thing lined out. Thanks.

[BBR]

Mine had the soft progressive and I switched to the regular progressive. Soft opens the secondaries earlier than the regular progressive. Regular is the same ratio as a 4150. I was concerned it would be in the secondaries too much when street driving.

I did the 2 circuit conversion so I could run my good (QFT 34-105) 4150 metering blocks and to eliminate that 'rogue' third circuit that you have very little control over.

Don't be afraid to post up questions on that site. Those guys are SUPER helpful and there is a ton of info over there to get you in the ball park.

[brianf670]

If you don't mind I'll pass on my experience with running a drag race carb 1200 miles last year on Drag Week. In order to lean my Holley 780 for the street, I switched the tiny air bleeds I use to leave off idle at the track, for larger air bleeds thereby 'leaning' the mixture. I run very small jets on the track so wouldn't have made much difference to change them also. We run a power valve in the primary side. Our engine coolant temp dictated how much leaner we could safely go. Each race day we put the race bleeders back in, then 'leaned' out again for the road. We puked so much fuel thru the engine that we changed the motor oil every day. End result is the brand new cam suffered more wear than the previous one had and it had 720 passes on it over a ten year period. Also I failed to run fresh oil thru the engine prior to storing the car for winter and having just torn it down this week discovered that all that fuel washed the oil off the entire inside of the engine resulting in a rust bucket. Its so bad that some rings were rusted to the lands. This year we will build a street carb and swap carbs twice a day during Drag Week. Not trying to discourage tuning yours differently for the street portion, just sharing in case we can save someone the grief of running excessively rich for about 60 hours of driving on race fuel. (ps, not complaining; DW is THE coolest thing I've ever done!)

[greenXpress]

If you don't mind I'll pass on my experience with running a drag race carb 1200 miles last year on Drag Week. In order to lean my Holley 780 for the street, I switched the tiny air bleeds I use to leave off idle at the track, for larger air bleeds thereby 'leaning' the mixture. I run very small jets on the track so wouldn't have made much difference to change them also. We run a power valve in the primary side. Our engine coolant temp dictated how much leaner we could safely go. Each race day we put the race bleeders back in, then 'leaned' out again for the road. We puked so much fuel thru the engine that we changed the motor oil every day. End result is the brand new cam suffered more wear than the previous one had and it had 720 passes on it over a ten year period. Also I failed to run fresh oil thru the engine prior to storing the car for winter and having just torn it down this week discovered that all that fuel washed the oil off the entire inside of the engine resulting in a rust bucket. Its so bad that some rings were rusted to the lands. This year we will build a street carb and swap carbs twice a day during Drag Week. Not trying to discourage tuning yours differently for the street portion, just sharing in case we can save someone the grief of running excessively rich for about 60 hours of driving on race fuel. (ps, not complaining; DW is THE coolest thing I've ever done!)[ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_40903_1436487695346_732[/ATTACH]

This is my daily driver, I'm not just in that class by name only. That's why I am concerned about not having power valves. I am currently running an 850 Demon with 3.5 PV's in the primary and 82's front / 88's rear. Been good for 18,000 miles, just wanting to go faster. If I see a big difference between 1050 and 850 I will probably do the switch thing for the road. We rarely get away early anyway.

I just hope to find some test time before September.

[tsanchez]

I run two in my javelin on the tunnel ram, they are currently 750 versions but are identical to the 1050. They are two circuit carbs and I dont run power valves and use the soft progressive linkage, I added transfer slot restrictions to them and it makes the low speed cruise portion super clean at 2013 drag week it got 13mpg from memphis to bowling green.
I am going to change out the boosters to 1050 style before this drag week.


.140 angle channel
.028 e bleed in 1 and 3
.023 kill
.052 transfer slot restriction
.058 IAB
.027 MAB
76 jets square

[slimbo5]

What James posted is great info. With no overdrive I get around 12 mpg with my dominator. It's like any other carb. If tuned properly you will be fine. Will take some time initially though.

[greenXpress]

What James posted is great info. With no overdrive I get around 12 mpg with my dominator. It's like any other carb. If tuned properly you will be fine. Will take some time initially though.

Just waiting on the progressive linkage to get here and will get started on the tuning.
I got a lot of learning to do.

[CDMBill]

Back when I ran a Dominator style three circuit carb in 2006 we just pulled the air bleeds from the intermediate circuit completely. Helped mileage quite a bit, no other changes. I was running a PV type front metering block. James an other solutions posted on here are more complete and effective.

[MR P-BODY]

The switch to the 2 circuit blocks is a very smart move.. the 8896 is a realy
pita ass to dial in the cruise

[greenXpress]

Back when I ran a Dominator style three circuit carb in 2006 we just pulled the air bleeds from the intermediate circuit completely. Helped mileage quite a bit, no other changes. I was running a PV type front metering block. James an other solutions posted on here are more complete and effective.

The intermediate air bleeds are missing on this one. (used, cheap, e-bay) I have it on and did a bunch of running around today. I have it way rich and will be re-jetting tomorrow or Wednesday. I was surprised at the response it has. AFR is 10.5 to 12 at cruise and in the 9 - 10 range WOT. Started out with 89's (no PV)
Will tinker with it a bit, and change to 2-circuit if need be.
I think I'm going to like this carb.
Thanks guys.

[greenXpress]

What James posted is great info. With no overdrive I get around 12 mpg with my dominator. It's like any other carb. If tuned properly you will be fine. Will take some time initially though.

I added that link to my bookmarks.