Another 700R4 question

[anotheridiot]

So we are still dealing with this 700R4 swap, got a cheap shifter off a corvette, price was less than what I would have paid for a cable anyway, but pulled all the way down in 1st there is a micro switch. Trying to figure out what it is for. I thought it was something for the lockup, but that is supposed to be actuated by the brake pedal. This switch is only made when you shift manually in first. Is this an over ride for the lockup for launches?

[TheSilverBuick]

From what I gather, the hydraulic circuits in the valvebody don't allow for lock up in first gear, so not sure that switch would be for that.

What year corvette? That would help narrow down what it might be for.

[Beagle]

turns off the ABS and traction control for burnouts.

That's what it outta do anyway.

[silver_bullet]

tehehehehe

[anotheridiot]

this is another listing like the one I got, its the paddle switch with the white connector. The listing I bought was from a stingray guy and said 87.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Corvette-C4-Automatic-Transmission-Shifter-Shift-Cables-/131366717464?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e96110818&vxp=mtr

Dont have traction control or ABS, maybe we can engage a pump to spray bleach white in front of the tires?

[BigAL]

The switch with the white connector is the Overdrive Switch.

[smalblock]

If everything in the transmission is original, When the transmission shifts into overdrive, a pressure switch makes up which locks the converter. This pressure switch completes the ground circuit to the solenoid valve which should have 12 V supplied to it from the ignition switch by way of the purple colored wire. Tie the other two wires together at the 3 way plug, which will by pass the temperature switch in the transmission. Most people use a cruise control brake switch to unlock the converter when the brakes are applied. The pressure switch should be changed and can be bought at your local parts store that sells Delco parts. 200 4R and 700 R4 both work the same way.

[BigAL]

If everything in the transmission is original, When the transmission shifts into overdrive, a pressure switch makes up which locks the converter. This pressure switch completes the ground circuit to the solenoid valve which should have 12 V supplied to it from the ignition switch by way of the purple colored wire. Tie the other two wires together at the 3 way plug, which will by pass the temperature switch in the transmission. Most people use a cruise control brake switch to unlock the converter when the brakes are applied. The pressure switch should be changed and can be bought at your local parts store that sells Delco parts. 200 4R and 700 R4 both work the same way.

He can get a vacuum switch to control lockup.

[smalblock]

When a vacuum switch is used, it is to unlock the converter during slight acceleration or pulling grade and is in the 12V circuit to the solenoid valve.

[Shelty]

When a vacuum switch is used, it is to unlock the converter during slight acceleration or pulling grade and is in the 12V circuit to the solenoid valve.

thats how I I have it set up in my wagon. Its been working pretty well since I hooked it up. idk what that switch on the 'vette shifter is though, I have a lokar column adapter. have it set up so I can still use the column shift and have a full sweep of all the gears.

[BigAL]

thats how I I have it set up in my wagon. Its been working pretty well since I hooked it up. idk what that switch on the 'vette shifter is though, I have a lokar column adapter. have it set up so I can still use the column shift and have a full sweep of all the gears.

I already answered what that switch is, it's the Overdrive Switch, I looked it up, also found listings for it on Ebay.

[Shelty]

I already answered what that switch is, it's the Overdrive Switch, I looked it up, also found listings for it on Ebay.

I didnt see that lol. sometimes I forget how to read. lol

[anotheridiot]

this simple kit for 25 bucks has one AC DELCO 8648473 vacuum switch that goes into the valve body and one electrical connector that just looks like a spade terminal to spade terminal bulkhead.





[Inside your TCC Lock-up kit you will find an AC Delco switch, a single terminal plastic case connector with an O-ring, two red heat shrink butt connectors, and two blue female electrical crimp connectors.]
Installation is easiest if you have your transmission on a workbench with the bottom facing up and the transmission pan removed. But you can also do it with the transmission in the vehicle.
Looking at the included 700R4 VB (valve body) diagram, certain parts are marked with arrows. These are:
A.Large washer which retains the wires and wire harness under the filter
B.TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid at the front of the transmission
C.Electrical case connector where the wire harness plugs into
D.Pressure port where the AC Delco switch screws into
E.Filter bracket (some transmissions may not have this)
F.Wire harness clips/retainers (your trans may have more or less than the two shown)
NOTE: The included 700R4 VB diagram is for reference purposes only. Your 700R4 VB could look slightly different depending on the year it was made. There are about 16 different ways your 700R4 valve body could have come from the factory. It may have a different number of wires, more or less pressure switches, a temperature sensor, and/or an auxiliary VB with a metal tube going to the front pump.
Regardless what you have, this kit will work for all of them from 1982 – 1993.
PLEASE HAVE THE VB DIAGRAM NEARBY FOR EASY REFERENCE AS YOU GO THROUGH THE FOLLOWING STEPS.
Step 1) Remove the filter with a slight twisting motion ( left to right) while gently pulling on it so it comes out of the transmission pump. Set the filter aside.
Step 2) Carefully remove the wire harness from the case connector by using a flat blade screwdriver on the small clip on the VB side, and then gently pulling on the wire harness.
Step 3) Remove the wire harness from all the VB pressure switches and sensors, but not from the TCC Solenoid #B. The plastic female connectors should pull off easily, but if they don’t, you can use a flat blade screwdriver against the ends of them to help them off. Leave the wires attached to the TCC Solenoid #B for now, but move the rest of them out of the way and away from the VB.
Step 4) Remove the original electrical case connector from the case. Just hold in all the tabs on the VB side and coax it out gently.
Step 5) Clean the opening where you just removed the case connector with a paper towel and solvent.
Step 6) Place a few drops of clean transmission fluid (or oil) around the new #C electrical case connector’s O-ring, then push the new connector into the hole from the top side of the transmission. The 3 plastic prongs go in first. The square tab on side of the round connector fits into the square shaped indentation on the top side of the transmission. Case connector #C will snap into place and bottom out once it’s installed correctly.
Step 7) Find pressure port #D on the VB diagram. Your VB may have a small screw-in plug here or a pressure switch (as shown on the diagram). Whichever one yours has, remove it by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Once removed, clean the hole and threads with a spray solvent (such as starter fluid) and then double check to be sure there are no debris in the threaded hole.
NOTE: The plug and/or original pressure switch may not come out of the VB with the accumulator in the way. The accumulator is the round aluminum housing which is located in the lower right corner of the 700R4 VB diagram. If you need to remove it, just unscrew the three bolts holding it on and then set it aside. Pay close attention to the spring(s) and aluminum piston inside of it, so you can put it back together in the correct order.
Step 8) Remove the new AC Delco switch from the package and screw it into pressure port #D with a clockwise motion. If you don’t have a socket large enough to fit it, an 8” crescent wrench will work. Screw the AC Delco switch into the VB far enough so that it’s snug and/or it requires slightly more pressure to turn it with a wrench, than it did for the first few threads. When the pressure switch is installed correctly, there should still be 1-3 threads showing. WARNING: DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE OR RTV SEALANT ON THE THREADS! DO NOT SCREW IT IN AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN OR DAMAGE WILL RESULT!
NOTE: You can reinstall the accumulator at this time. Make sure the internal parts are in the correct order and only tighten the 3 mounting bolts to 8-10 ft. lbs.
Step 9) The TCC solenoid #B should have 2 wires coming out of it. One should be colored red and/or there will be a positive sign “+” stamped into the metal on the TCC solenoid where this one wire attaches. Follow this positive wire away from the TCC solenoid and cut it as long as you can. This will be the wire you need to connect to the new electrical case connector #C.
Step 10) Make sure the TCC solenoid positive wire can be routed through wire retainers #F (if you have them) and under the large washer/wire retainer #A, on its way to the case connector #C. If it’s not long enough, use the included red electrical butt connector [aka: crimp connector] to lengthen it with extra wire so it can reach case connector #C.
Step 11) Once the TCC solenoid positive wire can reach case connector #C, strip the insulation back 1/4” from the end of the wire. Then crimp the 3M blue female electrical connector onto it. Attach this to the electrical case connector #C.
Step 12a) Locate the negative wire from the TCC solenoid (which is usually black) and follow this wire to its end. It may have a female electrical connector on the end of it, and should reach the new AC Delco switch. If it does, then snap this connector onto the AC Delco switch #D.
Step 12b) If the TCC solenoid negative wire does not have a female electrical connector on the end of it, and/or doesn’t reach the switch, you’ll have to add it. It’s best to use an original female electrical connector from the factory wire harness. Just cut it from the wire harness with about 1-2” of wire still attached, then connect it to the TCC Solenoid negative wire with the second red electrical butt connector [aka: crimp connector] from the kit.
Step 13) Make sure both TCC solenoid wires which you just installed, are retained by the metal wire retainers #F, go under the large washer/wire retainer #A, and are out of the way of any moving parts. Also verify they won’t get pinched between the filter and VB once you reinstall the filter (see below).
Check your work: Once finished, you will have one positive wire coming from the TCC Solenoid #B and going to electrical case connector #C; and one negative wire coming from TCC Solenoid #B going to the AC Delco switch #D. There should be no other wires attached to the VB.
If you have other pressure switches which are no longer being used but still attached to the VB, just leave them in place and do NOT remove them! Your transmission will not work correctly if you do.
Install the transmission filter: Make sure the filter O-ring is still in the front pump cavity, or on the filter’s suction tube. Install your filter with a straight-in pushing and slight twisting motion. If the filter won’t go in, sometimes a firm “smack” on the bottom of the filter with the palm of your hand will do the trick.
The filter will bottom out against the pump once it’s properly installed.
Now install the pan gasket, transmission pan, and pan bolts.
Note: Never use a cork pan gasket, they are garbage! Make sure it’s made of rubber or duraprene (a compressed paper-like fiber mix) which are both more durable than cork and wont leak if you accidentally over tighten a pan bolt.
CAUTION: TIGHTEN THE PAN BOLTS TO 10 ft lbs ONLY! Do not over tighten, or you may bend the pan and cut the pan gasket which could cause a major transmission fluid leak.
For proper TCC Lock-up operation, run a single 12Volt (+) wire to the new case connector on the passenger side of the transmission.
To do so, find some spare terminals on your fuse block and check them with a voltage tester. The correct terminal to use for the 12Volt (+) wire, is one that has 12Volts with the key in the ON position, but has no voltage when the key is Off or in the Accessory position.
Once you find a terminal to use, attach a 14-16 gauge wire to it. Run the wire under your carpet, away from any pedals or moving parts, and then down along the transmission tunnel. Find a hole in the floor pan to route the wire through, or drill a new one, then install a rubber grommet so it won’t rub. Attach this wire to the case connector with the last 3M blue female crimp connector.

[anotheridiot]

just figured out the photo

[quick 52]

Are you looking for tcc lockup kit