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  • clutch slave cylinder

    04 gto went to drive friday night, couldn't shift into gear with car running. finally pulled back into driveway by the starter. found fluid reservoir empty. figured great line blew or slave cyl leaking. looked under car and to my suprise it is dry. both driveway and car. filled fluid back up. pumped clutch and got enough to be able to move car out of the way. was to busy saturday to even look at the car. finally got to it today (sunday) at 12;00. reservoir still full and no pedal. had to park the car in the yard, so left a board under it to watch for leaks. none to be found. pumped pedal enough to get it moved in to the driveway. jacked the car up in order to bleed it properly. had the wife help me bleed the clutch and force out all the old fluid. fluid was beyond black. burnt big time. kept bleeding and flushing till i got clear fluid and good pedal back. lowered back down, drove the car forward and back in the driveway. seemed to shift find and no problems. left car alone for roughly 4-5 hrs. came back and again. no pedal, and if anything fluid level came up a bit. went back under car to check and rebleed. fluid was full of air. anybody ever seen a slave cylinder do such a thing or any other brillant ideas. type of slave cylinder where trans will have to come out in order to be switched. will need to get car 20 miles to my work where i have lift access. ideas please>>>>

  • #2
    leaking into the bell housing?
    Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
    HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


    Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

    The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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    • #3
      The T56 for Chevrolets are known to have clutch issues/problems with both the Slave Cylinder and the Clutch Master Cylinder. I have been experiencing issues with my 2002 SS Camaro, and it only has 23,000 miles on it. After doing a lot of research, and talking to Tick Performance several times, I have learned that the Clutch Master Cylinder is a very weak, poor design and burnt fluid can have an impact on how much pressure it holds to engage/disengage your clutch.

      With all that being said, my pedal would go to the floor and just "stick" It would do it more often when I was trying to back it into the garage or coming through the gate to our home, or getting onto the Arsenal. Like you, I changed my fluid, bled the system several times, and went as far as gravity bleeding it. My fluid was black as well, probably because it was 12 years old. After enough frustration, last week I ordered a new Clutch Master Cylinder from Tick Performance. There is a wealth of knowledge that goes into detail about the faulty design on the Clutch Master Cylinder and how difficult it is to properly bleed the slave cylinder. I plan to replace the slave when I install my new clutch this winter.

      I hope that helps.....
      sigpic

      "People Sleep Peacefully in their beds at Night Because Rough Men Stand Ready to do violence on their Behalf."
      - George Orwell

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      • #4
        there is a slit in the bell housing for the fluid to leave from. that was dry there as well. checked clutch operation this morning and so far so good. seemed to still have pressure. will check level and pedal tonight when I get off work. to add insult to injury. the hanger bearing is gone as well. guess I will change that when the trans is out for the slave cylinder if need be. I am up to 108xxx for miles and this is the first issue I have had with mine. clutch was replaced at 95000 and has been fine up until now. I have heard several horror stories about these cylinders.

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        • #5
          I made the mistake of trying to replace just the slave cylinder when I did a clutch job on my 2000 Formula. I had the trans in and out a couple of times in the driveway trying to get then new slave cylinder to bleed. I finally replaced the clutch master cylinder at which point the slave cylinder finally started bleeding correctly.

          I was pissed. The old master was working just fine before the clutch job, why wouldn't it work with the new slave???
          I took the old master apart and found it full of gunk and debris (I had black clutch fluid too). I suspect the added fluid motion of trying to bleed the new slave was enough to cause some of the debris to plug an internal fluid passage.

          In summary: I know it's a pain to r&r the master, but with black clutch fluid, I'd replace the both the master and slave.

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          • #6
            did anybody ever have the issue of getting air in, but not losing fluid? get home tonight and no pedal and the reservoir is brim full. went back under the car and just cracked the bleeder. with the cap on, air came rushing out. as soon as i had a steady drip i tightened the bleeder and now have good pedal again. some how i am gaining air in the slave cylinder, but not losing fluid. how is this possible?

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            • #7
              I've never had an issue with air getting into my lines..... Just the damn dreaded "Pedal/Clutch Stuck to the Floor". Curious, how are you opening the bleeder valve? I'm not sure about your GTO, but on a 4th Gen Camaro, you can't see it. You can feel it, if you squeeze your hand up above the hydraulic line, but the only way I can see it is to put an inspection mirror above it. I have to engineer a 1/4 socket, swivel, extension just to get to that bastard!! When I replace my clutch this winter, I'm going to install a remote bleeder on my car to make it that much easier.
              sigpic

              "People Sleep Peacefully in their beds at Night Because Rough Men Stand Ready to do violence on their Behalf."
              - George Orwell

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              • #8
                definitely sounds like a plumbing leak somewhere, instead of fluid going back to the reservoir, its sucking air in on the up stroke.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bucky67 View Post
                  I've never had an issue with air getting into my lines..... Just the damn dreaded "Pedal/Clutch Stuck to the Floor". Curious, how are you opening the bleeder valve? I'm not sure about your GTO, but on a 4th Gen Camaro, you can't see it. You can feel it, if you squeeze your hand up above the hydraulic line, but the only way I can see it is to put an inspection mirror above it. I have to engineer a 1/4 socket, swivel, extension just to get to that bastard!! When I replace my clutch this winter, I'm going to install a remote bleeder on my car to make it that much easier.
                  11mm socket right above where the fluid line goes in. there is another notch in the bell housing and just in side there is the bleeder screw. short socket and 1/4 ratchet will grab and hold just have to be careful not to drop the socket in the bell housing. good clutch this morning will see tonight.

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                  • #10
                    Look up clutch issues with the similar vintage Corvettes. They boil off fluid because there's a restriction in the line. I had a clutch problem, but I don't think it's yours because you were out of fluid - however, for completeness, under "hard" use (not hard use in our terms) the fluid will over heat and boil off creating a void in the throwout bearing. There's a TSB on this issue (which the monkeys at Lee Johnson Chevrolet never told me about...)
                    These cars overheat fluid pretty quickly, and the fix is an aftermarket clutch line (not OEM or OEM-like)

                    You get pretty adept at changing the fluid - they can cook the fluid in 5000 miles.
                    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; August 19, 2014, 07:40 AM.
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • #11
                      finally started leaving a puddle under the car so a new slave going in today.

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                      • #12
                        run a bleed extension line (10" braided ss line with the bleed valve on the end) to help you bleed the pedal from here on out.
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                          run a bleed extension line (10" braided ss line with the bleed valve on the end) to help you bleed the pedal from here on out.
                          I couldn't agree more!! When I replace the clutch & slave cylinder this winter, I'll be installing a Tick Performance Remove Bleeder for the slave. You can get it up to 49" long, so you route it back up by your reservoir. It has a one way check valve that doesn't allow air to be sucked back in, so it's truly a one person job. For me, it's a no brainer and the best $49 you can spend!!
                          sigpic

                          "People Sleep Peacefully in their beds at Night Because Rough Men Stand Ready to do violence on their Behalf."
                          - George Orwell

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                          • #14
                            Just to mention...and I don't know if this would help...on my Chev truck, after re-routing stock plastic line and replacing it with steel and brake-line rubber, I pressure-bled it from the bottom up, i.e. turning the slave so it's valve was down and pumping fluid in. Got some pretty-good bubbles coming out of the master up top, and no more problems. Also previously I had never been able to get the system to stop leaking, until I put in the "not recommended" atf when I got stuck and that's all I had. The trans fluid fixed that, it never leaked again.
                            ...

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                            • #15
                              so far so good. real pain to get bleed but seems to be okay. test drive after went well. left car at work till this weekend, no way to get it home till then. will drive it to dinner tomorrow and such to see if it is good to go or not. hopefully so.

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