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  • Re: attacking a monojet

    main jet #2

    current jet: .079 = 2.0066
    gm used a #80 on a 1.6 liter. Rethinking main jet on chevette needle. the slob is gone now..the delay that puffed black smoke is a trick to think it was plenty of fuel. just the opposite..

    next: .081 = 2.0574 mm

    I am guesing this might be .082 for an ea82...not sure. They never explained their engine designations. I will try two jet sizes bigger.

    another hint was no bellow, until needle removed from jet. Even rich, the #79 is in the low 20s mpg (no needle in the middle).

    that was my only hint..the bellow of demaning air like I know rochesters is hardly existent right now. I must be hypermiling.

    full CAI has a hellacious sound on the all steel can (I am giggling) when this is correct.
    with bypass in place, dynamics of a bigger top end can be thought of.
    Last edited by boxer3main; April 20th, 2012, 11:49 AM.
    Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


    • Re: attacking a monojet

      current jet: .079 = 2.0066
      the delay that puffed black smoke is a trick to think it was plenty of fuel. just the opposite..
      I've seen this too! lean misfire but thought it was overly rich because of a puff of black smoke. Kept taking out fuel, misfire gets worse. WHAT THE HELL!

      I think the smoke is the residual fuel, unburnt due to "not enough fuel" that then burns when the engine relights. Not sure but, your description sounds like what I am talking about.

      Still following this thread,
      Proudly using custom EFI components!


      • Re: attacking a monojet

        I've seen this too! lean misfire but thought it was overly rich because of a puff of black smoke. Kept taking out fuel, misfire gets worse. WHAT THE HELL!

        I think the smoke is the residual fuel, unburnt due to "not enough fuel" that then burns when the engine relights. Not sure but, your description sounds like what I am talking about.

        Still following this thread,
        I did get tricked no doubt. easy to do.

        I was looking up solex for beetles...
        1600cc to 1776cc with the same carb has 7% increase in jetting.

        this applied to the current setup would put me at a #85 (2.15mm) holley. I guess I am way off...well, if a smidgen tenth a millimeter is way off.

        another measurement was using millimeters instead of inches, finding 7%.
        this puts me at a 2.17mm
        another trick was the air bleed. the chevette had a little one..but venturi must have been crammed, hence it must have worked. I need to stay with what gm gave the 250cfm to be sure I get a bleed at all...the barrell is huge in comparison.

        oem plays safe maybe compromise, old gurus numbers, and my own..

        in the guys article..he did mention the hazard of air cool. as liquid cool, 3 jets smaller is plenty in boundaries. air cooled needs rich. it is surviving a #79 now.

        it could be more than a conicidence. "ea82" is engine label. hard telling.
        Last edited by boxer3main; April 20th, 2012, 02:52 PM.
        Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


        • Re: attacking a monojet

          more plating

          I will be using the original needle (custom ground) with the next jet...I gave it a cathode/anode clean, now using the eagle to get some plating across. makng an acid is easy. simple as slat water and lysol 4n1 lime stain remover (mineral agitator)

          The main jet needle with a brass eagle.
          I am opting for my custom needle to go with the next main jet #82. The needle in use now seems rather custom by rochester to go with a long #80, a raised jet. The needle getting plated is the original..but seems to be foolishly copper. I grinded this down to what I feel the curve is. without braggin.. I now I am right before even using it. the number87 is on this needle.. I seriously believe that is the main jets max stamped right on the needle. Close enough for me.The water turns green, plating of some kind is happening. (brass has either yellow or green when it becomes a solution).
          So this makes everything custom. my own idle jet, float and seat from a chevette, and my favorite is the return line. I may be adding a brass liner to that, found also in the chevette carb..seems an exact fit for inside the throttle cable return as a reducer. this way, any old fuel line can be hooked up.
          Last edited by boxer3main; April 20th, 2012, 06:05 PM.
          Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


          • Re: attacking a monojet

            custom main jet

            the number 80 chrome jet is so close to what my goal is.. I just let it have some ingenuity. I liked the thought of engineers intentions on a four cyl with a monojet. I just simply went bigger. Worth some effort.

            the remains of a steel rivet had some divets on the back end.. I thought to check it against the number 80 jet. sure enough..a slight bit bigger. I stuck it in the drill gun and it won the jet. I then polished the reaming with the awl, much harder than the jet, by hand. Verifying a gain was easy. the awls point sticking out distance from the hole compared to before and after, and of course against the #79 jet next to it. if the chrome jet is now not a #82, close enough.
            I may be a be able to use original needle..but each rochester gets its own angle on the needle. the 250cfm in the car has an angle not perpendicular to tall jet like the chevtte carb this came from. it will still give rochesters purpose to use the old needle I custom ground. stabilizer, antikick. it will simply have more elbow room.
            will try this install soon.

            plus a quarter of 1mm is a #81, half a mm is an 82..very precise stuff they got there.
            I am certain to be closer to 82.
            Last edited by boxer3main; April 20th, 2012, 08:03 PM.
            Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


            • Re: attacking a monojet

              long 82 and needle


              I am getting quicker at this..all the screws on the float bowl cover, pluck the float out of the way without losing needle for float on the little clip. The custom needle is much smoother than photo.. I gave it some plating and thorough cleaning to verify plating even worked. I noticed some perfect ridges, very if to be someones nominal throttle settings in th past on longer trips.
              dropped this in, did not like the power valve and how many adjustments it has had..but is staying put. I may get another rochester just for power valve. The chevette one does not fit.
              Started easier dead cold. off idle to partial throttle was improving before even purging into final seat. this is going to the best run of custom so far.

              back to the feel of a real throttle curve, I let the tinging valves work their way to quiet, this means bothering neighbors revving..getting the purge of fresh air bubble out. I am playing with 30mpg after all.

              this is the best answer yet. The other needle had a fat end, hardly any taper at all. I think I found the lean problem at speed or long hills. the other needle could not let it have anymore. This needle in photo, as throttle is given, fattens the mix. the reutrn line helps, as fuel gets colder using it..but that is more for purging and let float have an easier life. It also helps getting changes to take place.Now back to a hard set dynamical feed, I love it.

              so stepping away from oem build..
              • the four cyl proves to need the raised jet,
              • a real taper on the needle,
              • the small float bowl seat, and float..
              • return line was the scariest chore. could wreck a bowl, and that means bad carb.
              And as for the jet numbering.. I found per barrel of rochester, 78 to 80, no matter where it is at, seems to be the most common number ever. I bet each barrel revolves around a given engineering limit, and then they just add more barrels to go bigger engine.

              If I had known it was that simple...
              Attached Files
              Last edited by boxer3main; April 21st, 2012, 08:45 AM.
              Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


              • Re: attacking a monojet

                float bowl vent baffle

                found this for a holley float bowl vent baffle. I found the monojet is sitting flush, wide open..anything with gravity can fall I found some piping, a bit reduced in size..but so is the fuel I am using, and doubted it until the lockdown for the plenum bar screwed tightly against, and also gave it a little bit of silicone that ignores gas. I have it taking a right turn, peeking over in the airstream of barrel. this also adds an object above air bleed openings..a protector of sorts.

                oddly enough, this is the only carb I have seen with no extra pipe taking vent into airstream of barrel..and sitting flush open like that. this is a correct thing to do.

                this chore here should end a long list of not so little things..even though they are little.
                I looked over the hitachi tiny as everything was, it stayed robust enough for a 25 year run. I voluntarily took it off the engine as I outran the fuel air with big cams. I can admit I went guru with basic knowledge to keep things happening..not exactly rocket science to be a maintainer.
                I never even primed it changing a fuel pump..that was an indicator that the pump is a volume based more than pressure, ignoring 3 psi was a good idea. Return line is very clever.

                in this post with the barrel side of bowl vent..the hitachi had a complete shutoff, electrically controlled. I looked over the spare monojet wondering how I could machine something like it in to work...
                I still may come up with something.

                being as this is a true needle and seat carb now..the hitachi was not.. the extras are proving to be unnecessary..except for the electrical connection on a resistor.
                the vent shut seems to be the cold start keeper. Could sit for weeks..and bam..right to life in a high idle. the monojet is not so happy about that. it might be now..It is too soon to say yet.

                I did learn the prime trick..turn key on, start..wait for pump and don't keep on starter or pump fuel. that is where this one might have to stay. alright by me.

                for the first time in what seems to be a year..
                looking at 4 inches total rain in a couple of days.

                all it takes is a barometric pressure change to drain a carb to looking like a dead oxide log.
                a reason for painting, a reason for alot of things. the fuel on the return will move on its on or not.
                Last edited by boxer3main; April 21st, 2012, 04:32 PM.
                Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                • Re: attacking a monojet

                  gas light on

                  I wanted to see if an infection was in the tank..a down low heavy one. gas light on, started up well, went to gas station and put in one gallon.
                  no strange the valve going tinny was a lean or strange crud..could be silicone gas. it did quiet down to silent.

                  the void all the boxers I have driven is right up to 2000 rpm...idle air good.
                  A promising sound today, a bark an ea81 with one cam would make during casual take cough. with all the timing work I put into it (gates hard belts on an ea82 was not possible as oem), I was glad to hear that void filled in. I have heard it fake this before..the fake is no power to go with the bark. today was different. I am happy about that. The engine is funny in that as power and air fuel speed up in the curve, the engine gets strangely quiet .. that is self balanced in action. the only noise is air fuel if I let it.

                  will attempt to get a different camera. No fan club for this one.. this one is for truth.

                  the monojet is only little on a big engine.

                  a daydream for this setup once correct was a 2 speed powerglide...and take this n/a pipsqueak to a drag strip.
                  I did spot the chevette front suspension. .. that is a long distance away, these outrageous extras.
                  Last edited by boxer3main; April 21st, 2012, 08:06 PM.
                  Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                  • Re: attacking a monojet

                    summary (final)
                    • #80 long jet, gently reamed (close to a #82)
                    • custom needle, full taper (I may have simply taken out an oem retarder- hard telling)
                    • chevette nitrophyl float (made for this type of monojet)
                    • chevette float needle and seat, modified
                    • float bowl and cover painted carbon black pigment (purified carbon is pigment- simply rustoleum bumper paint)
                    • 2.2 ohm choke, also chevette (ohms to match 1.8 liter per engineers thinking)
                    • 56ohm connection on back bolt (resemble modern gadget connection, keep carb as cathode, anti-pig)
                    • bimetal relief filled in (this was used on 250 cubic inch as a relief)
                    • full CAI, custom 16ga steel boot ring
                    • full return line, .035 inch restricted
                    • fuel filter removed at carb
                    • custom thin base gasket to intake (ensures vacuum ports on the base)
                    • choke spring (helps it close partially upon shutdown)
                    • idle solenoid removed (crazy function- 1970s monojet)
                    • bowl vent for inside barrel is now a pipe with a right angle, reduced slightly and into airstream (idea from other carburetors)
                    • custom throttle hookup
                    • maximized adjustment on power valve (flush to bowl)
                    • the capped screw for stoich adjustment , drilled and turned until 1.5 turns out from closed
                    • custom brass idle air mix screw (looks like chevettes 4cyl, but made with proper thread to work in big monojet)
                    • threaded external fuel bowl vent connection (reduced slightly)
                    • new choke pull off, restricted to open much slower
                    • progressive vaccum port in perfect use with ignition.
                    • lastly..custom gasket out of my favorite plastic folgers coffee jug (next post)
                    I think this is all I did..

                    will add to it if I forgot.
                    open to suggestions too.
                    as there is no shutoff for venting, I check valved with a pcv valve, and it worked. I found some 1970s emission stuff for fords, I could put that on a vacuum control valve, or they really make an "air check valve". does not seem to be necessary at this time.

                    old monojet is modern. The main jet is fancier than even the most modern...among other things on the list.
                    Last edited by boxer3main; April 22nd, 2012, 11:18 AM.
                    Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                    • Re: attacking a monojet

                      custom gasket


                      I caught onto my coffee jugs strangely tough materials, being under the sink, toluene, my car paints, bolts with stuff on them,batteries..the plastic junk never died.

                      I then went onto trying one as a thermostat gasket, just the lid, as it is softer. sure enough, held right up. I stuck some in toluene and let it sit to see what would happen. Nothing. did not even get soft.
                      the monojets materials are as prehistoric as cork rubber. I don't get mad..all my engines have been in this torture.

                      I'll make my own. if this ever proves to be silly, the coolant jugs or oil jugs are also sure wins.

                      note the barrel cutout is oversized to keep the dreaded cfm thief from squishing into it...dangling, robbing the air of the extra 1/100th of a horsepower.

                      here is old gasket.
                      since installed the new one..there is one trimming I did too much of (yellow circle), in a useless spot anyway, the hole does fact it is a lip that sticks out. I did have to have the progressive spot (green circle), I left extra. the monojet in top photo is the chevette, not like the 250ci one exactly, but enough to make a gasket. I also trimmed back (blue square) some of the gasket hanging over float. this may promote more vent..
                      this did nothing to notice. although idle seems a thumpier. I did cure a leak after was at the air bleeders (two tiny holes in the middle of gasket in top photo)
                      cold start still stubborn.

                      when I first got this, the gasket stunk real bad. the new gasket is smelling neutral.
                      I can only see one potential problem fixed..and that was around needle power valve. it drops out the bottom of carb..potential vacuum leak on float bowl side. the new gasket gets that a little better.

                      valves still smacking around..have been through this, although rarely. change oil, hot day..pounce on the throttle once and awhile.

                      I also found the engine hates ATF. Rather than put in its third power steering track, I found some sealer called could laugh, but I think its the cold start problem, and valve noise. it hits the pipes, vapors of atf flying..and it stinks like I have never smelled before. shut down, gets cooled..and there is the slop needing a full warm engine to get over it..
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by boxer3main; April 22nd, 2012, 04:32 PM.
                      Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                      • Re: attacking a monojet

                        new problem

                        I forgot to take this thing highway to see if the bellow is back .this tells me it is rich enough.

                        it is indeed there. the let down is instant off..the long jet can't play games.

                        a new problem is in the cold. it did the opposite of warm up faster..the draft is even colder. I can pop thru carb if laying it on too fast.

                        I refuse to go all plenum under the hood like the old days..

                        a heat riser needed...
                        even the I-6 had a warm up time for this carb. all plenum under the hood to roast it in minutes.

                        the new gasket seems to be a cold one as well, no odors after shudown. As if the old gasket was some weird catalyzer.

                        valve noise is a lean condition coming back around to richer and colder. springs will take some time. this boxer has done this more times than nothing I know survives.

                        anyone play with CAI and carb..the heat riser subject? I need a simply clever idea.

                        I have a resistor on the fuel, and a partial draft under hood...not enough.


                        I was thinking of how the plenums worked. large area above carb, electrocutable, sloppy chamber of deadness. it is to keep the venturi happy..slow feed.
                        Above is a wheel bearing race on top of the float bowl cover upside down. it is nearly the same size as the barrel. I will put this in the intake tube, wedged ..this may fake a chamber like a plenum has, by sizing up the demand before it gets to carb...and leaving a slower space of the larger air duct that follows the race...I ponder it is over a foot after this race is wedged in to be the slow down.

                        I am avoiding heat riser as that sucks on city sewage, hondas an evos...and whatever else.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by boxer3main; April 22nd, 2012, 08:34 PM.
                        Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                        • Re: attacking a monojet

                          tuning the plenum

                          no vacuum valves, no thermal vacuum switch, nothing that will break to useless after finding it never worked. I want nature.
                          this is wheel bearing race with pc fan grate over it to screw it to plenum end. another freak is the exact same size. the race is heavy and the final size for barrel..larger by a small amount. the grate is to stop free flow. all stainless.

                          will it work? don't know yet.

                          overthunk? no.

                          a test ride. car will be sitting for a couple of weeks. would love to just pounce a 1000 miles into it. still stubborn cold starts. the cold cough did subside a bit. A good rain storm..could drive all day in it.
                          seems a world of crap in the oil side now..pcv may be releasing the monster that hung onto the carb. taking plenum apart to put in my gadget was no brain robbing odors.

                          stainless in the presence of air duct scare away many things. enzyme related. the little four banger is flowing too much to care about that anymore..but I still think of it.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by boxer3main; April 23rd, 2012, 07:35 AM.
                          Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                          • Re: attacking a monojet

                            summary in video

                            there is not much else to conquer. stuff not mentioned was not important.

                            I may tinker with an engine oilpan heater, stick it on the air box. little stuff. The custom plenum stainless piece is to promote pcv inlet with carb gasses..else it won't get anything but arctica...10% humidity.
                            been there with more than this car. engineers know hawaii more than america. that is coincidental to..
                            oh nevermind.

                            first vid:
                            february 8 2012, the intake stuff. first looks.
                            I have to use music that does not get me into trouble. making my own loops is usually a safe bet.

                            last vid Apr 22, 2012

                            the driving clips or cold starts etc..showing errors along the way, as if to be immortally forever stuck there. those vids are deleted. people are stupid.

                            I was reading my local paper..internet is doubled for everyone in my locale. Here I thought the registry cleaner was giving me a faster net. thanks to "docsis 3.0"

                   vids are actually wide screen 10mbit, panasonic ( good stuff), for several years I have been squashing them into a blur due to an insanely slow upload.
                            finding old settings.. I was even uploading sound at 256kbit in the past. I'll be back to that shortly.

                            this air/fuel stuff, seeming to be way overthunk to you?

                            changing plugs to hot the other day I noticed the intake valve open at the plug hole...between rocker ratio, solid lift, and an injection cam that has lobes looking like an egg..
                            the lift is over half inch. in the v8 world, well we know what this is don't we. to have a smooth idle..I must have done something right with a monojet and mismatched subaru parts.

                            manufacture ships easiest for themselves and a warranty. This is just another car going to a real runtime..who cares what power numbers are.

                            the fuel air subject gets much nerdier than me and this boxer.
                            Last edited by boxer3main; April 23rd, 2012, 01:58 PM.
                            Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                            • Re: attacking a monojet

                              for other monojets

                              the red is where it is not the same as mine, all else is good enough for explaining.
                              the accelerator pump shares main well (the last real revision of common sense), those are the monojets to go for. I know 1976 onward is a sure bet. else..adjustments don’t even matter. it will be a single digit low teens mpg hog. There is an obsolete versions to everything.

                              adjustable part throttle metering orifice. Yet another description of the extra hole near main jet. A real desire to leave that far open gets a performer..but yet again makes it a hog after vacuums are happy, engine warm. I found keeping it tight and make the carb earn the path will get a real stoich like modern (ie: 1.8 liters should be 30 something mpg). My own is 1.5 turns out..and may tighten it by end of summer. No monojet has clean paths. Make it earn them to be real. (example: The 4.1 L should be middle twenties mpg – do not stop letting it cough until it is there.)

                              a last trick for that hole, is sticking a pipe in the same size (press in some copper or whatever) and raising it up if you know the carb is clean. on my own, the jet is raised.. so I may use the little pipe that came with the chevtte and raise to .25 off the float bowl floor, and trim from there. I need the summers long day ride to finalize these little things. I treat a carb like welding long as it is 56F at a low temp at night. that needs middle of summer here.

                              all else is simply clever. for real tight stoichs, little engine..raising the jet, return line, and little float (old brass for monojet if you can’t find a chevette version) is a real runtime.

                              for the sharing main well accelerator pump..I had a friend who analyzed my 1974 chevelle, and he got excited about that...funny, at the time, I called him a nerd. that one move double and triples mileage..makes the main well gain pressure to seat a jets path to running tight. That is where I learned about the part throttle adjustement getting uncapped, and screwed right in to 1.5 turns and letting it have no more. (my chevelle was middle twenties mpg)

                              I'd really scrap the other monojets unless preservation of exact oem build for your classics year is the goal.
                              on multi carb gurus, they can take those pumps right out, even the metering needle. there is ways to hack old to new. the real line drawn is seeing if it has a stainless stainless? its a scrapper.
                              Last edited by boxer3main; April 24th, 2012, 07:47 AM.
                              Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                              • Re: attacking a monojet

                                gasket check (coffee lid)

                                the coffee jug and lid is made of HDPE. High-density polyethylene.
                                I guess I used the highest grade gasket available at big big cost.

                                they make gas tanks for cars out of the same stuff. any hardening is hydrogen leaving. wherever it is squashed between bowl cover and float bowl is where gasket stays soft. it digs into the little ridges monojet uses. never moves. kept a memory as I poked and peeled. no stickiness.

                       proved the old gasket, a tar like covering..that one was very very bad, it may have even been toxic. almost holding my breath taking bowl cover off, expecting that horrifying brain stabbing odor..there was none. the new gasket also kept it worlds cooler. An inert you just know is there content.
                                if this gasket proves to be too thin , or not strong enough, other plastics include any oil jug, or even coolant. all reusable. pluck the top off and play with jets all I want.

                                I wanted to see how the coffee lid gasket did, and if idle air hole got filled in by squish.. i am going for very tight, as the gasket is a plastic trait.

                                the gasket swelled up (I don't mean the material, I mean it moved the gasket upward like a balloon) and hardened around float bowl needle, fuel pressure/moving is much bigger than I thought. wow. return line reason infinite..

                                all else is perfection. I trimmed a little more at idle hole.

                                an odd thng to take note of (they all do this, guaranteed)

                                I installed main jet and needle, they weren't exactly aligned. today it is perfection. did it all on its own overnight...the jet moved to the needle. not the needle to the jet. I bet its a power valve electrode gain and loss.

                                ready to go. engine sounds bad.. but I got fuel air...

                                ..and engine may not be done of course, big changes can rumble any engine.

                                I am so very curious about the 115mph marker and beyond. the spongy four cyl feel has a climb. the boxer is like that.
                                Last edited by boxer3main; April 24th, 2012, 08:26 PM.
                                Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                                • Re: attacking a monojet

                                  new restrictor (return line)

                                  on the original attempt at a return line, this was before getting it at the bowl, I found this check valve in a vacuum line. Gas proof of course. works on low psi. less than a pound. Car ran with it. the error proved to be return line needing to be after the float bowl gains priority, not before.

                                  I thought it may be too big of an opening. not acting as a regulator enough. I added some piping I found in the chevette carb. pressed in, then quickly lit with a bic. this should restrict it to just right..been messing with different sizes. A .035 mig welders tip is in the return line now, and the bowl gasket told me it is still getting quite a pile of fuel in a hurry...freakish.

                                  this will do it. Still no regulator needed.

                                  seems as though, I am tuning this into a two barrel with no needles on the jets. more than a coincidence. that is what kind of carb was in it.

                                  this will also add one way into return..can't surge back at the carb.

                                  This photo captured all the intersections of the fuel lines going by each other.
                                  check valve restricted, installed into return line. I found it acts like it is starving more than before. although a whiff of fuel goes with it when the hesitation happens. An emulsifed odor, not a straight shot leaky one. This is good news. my carb tuning nose tells me. I am assuming it is choking on aerated lines. I blew into return line and found that the .035 did not fill it, it gave it an air bubbled spray. Not check valved, it sucked this back into engine when it needed to. I am forcing the hard line fuel now. Something is much tighter with the gasket for float bowl..just going to force a runtime. I wonder if this tortured monojet ever ran proper, tight into its channels. the float bowl gaskets are freaking terrible. it is all there correct now, plenty of fuel. engine sounds terrible. needs an oil change. the front side of carb has control valve for vent can hooked up at carb, and the top vent that would normally return under full vacuum into the air duct (slow that crazy function down).

                                  I will feel bad if I blow it..but a sacrifice had to happen. the gewkster hooked it up carzy. I am just getting it right the american way 25 years later. it is useless describing how tough that really is. if a chunk of valve breaks off and pulverizes the whole thing, I will laugh.
                                  I got it to pop, biggest ever..this means moving more than ever. the vent can having a real function must be full of a change temporarily right now. the hesitation seeming a bit more elongated..but the engine climbs it. Something familiar about will come to me. I know to just drive and run it. get some good oil in quickly. clean the reusable filter out...

                                  edit: this did work. quick snap of reality in these retarded city streets.
                                  Since this posting, I have found the brake booster is very strong.strongest I have ever felt. The guess about air holes for idle were correct,old bowl gasket could not do its job...for years and years. the hitachi was the same..but intermittent. the lucky seat to air loose must have been the lack of venting getting its way. So that is how the original setup did not become a complete bomb..only became a little one. An error got its way to correct when it needed to. I guess I deciphered the past with a current problem, building it on your own can do that. generalize 100 other cars with just one.

                                  I got a whiff of the old gasket. that is some kinda power getting kicked out. off-idle to partial is existing. I give it a thumbs up..I am real curious about the other end. top end runout. Seems it is all there, thinking the needle over as much as I have. I am in a place that has 3 nanoseconds for error. People climb out of the woods to go through these streets of the only city. the accidents are funny when no one is hurt.
                                  hesitating throttle is not an option. diesel thump of an old boxer to a scream not much heard of in the northwest USA woods wth lift kits and dangling EGR fungus.

                                  how in the hell did they not see F1 in a self balanced short stroke, liquid cooled all aluminum boxer?
                                  no rocket scientist needed.

                                  just going to let it sit around, give it another long run again in coming weeks..funky thumpy sound the little engine makes... I love it.
                                  Attached Files
                                  Last edited by boxer3main; April 25th, 2012, 11:24 AM.
                                  Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                                  • Re: attacking a monojet

                                    pcv, oil pressure and choke

                                    getting into final things. green on the trees. above freezing (at night we still get frost into the morning sun)

                                    time to get after little things.

                                    the little hole that gets covered next to the pressure relief bolt, and glimpse of the spring. even on the old pump, the old line of where bolt ended showed how much was covered. this one ran perfect. the HG fail sent some casting sand into the shaft and it became sloppy. with stuff spewing everywhere, including out the oil dipstick, boiling..I could here fires in places that should not have had one. I pulled it into the garage on two cylinders and oil pressure at exactly 43psi..right by their book. amazing misproportion? no way. they need to do this for every machine.

                                    I think the pump could do four v8s all at once.

                                    oil pressure works via an external mounted trochoid. A robust one at that mention. I dropped the pressure relief bolt (it actually is a regulator) behind it is a spring and cup. I analyzed the old pump in the parts bin for the 100th time and still confuse myself without the manual right there with arrows and diagrams.
                                    I found a problem with relief bolt that holds spring in, it takes up what would be on the backside of the cup. A little passage way partially covered by the bolt itself screwed in too far. I remember tightening that in a maine version of tight and killed the washer and dug into the pump hole. this means fluid motion going jerky, if that passage is too tight.

                                    spaced the bolt away from pump more, gave it all the opening it is worth, this gave the fluidity I was looking for.

                                    what does this have to do with a monojet? the pcv out the other end of our engine sucking on everything also pulses to whatever the pump is doing... more than the carb throttle. so, this is the last helper for that. next is just engine too old to run.

                                    got a cold start by making choke tighter shutting. I forgot to monitor that as weather warmed up. Being so tight with fuel, I may have to do that several times again until june 21st.

                                    no pops thru the carb, hesitating yes, but no pops. this means it is just shit that has to go. At least it is moving to the exhaust side after getting incinerated for whatever the fires worth. the wheel bearing venturi and pc grate did indeed resemble the plenum these run with a little more than what I had cramming wide open cold into it.

                                    I have revived 21 years..but 25. this is new stuff, some of it. even anti enzyme in the coolant. All cold climate. alaska to maine. wow. the knowledge would leave engineers thinking the stuff they make is in fact a tubers to go hug their mom like they do their honda...and put the overglorified flunk back in the effeminate mans closet.
                                    Attached Files
                                    Last edited by boxer3main; April 26th, 2012, 01:21 PM.
                                    Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                                    • Re: attacking a monojet


                                      the people showing up for a street race illegal thread. got me thinking of inspection stickers, exhaust, tires..emissions, other legality.

                                      although maximized in every way, the project in this thread is setup exactly like a singular fuel injected 1993 subaru loyale..with a mm or more gained in the right spots, and back to no computer. all natural.
                                      compression way over the beginning, and a lift on the cam gained not really known. way more than a tenth. joking of .550 lift and a smooth idle..

                                      I found many errors by manufacturing.

                                      the vent can for used to open at a certain temperature..and get hard sucked into the intake. that is not survivable in all scenarios ..when a heavy salt is dissolved on a moist day. I found a way to make a separater, like the air intake box does. a spot to pause, let the heavies fall. that is not only safer...this allows for vent to never stop functioning from startup to shutdown. no extra gadgets needed. they must have done the gadgets from factory making the cars run good while salesman and customer are around it.

                                      nothing man makes is perfect. it is the dark side of deciphering the disappointment, simply setting up fuel air for modern use.

                                      I even run a catalyst convertor that functions.

                                      this setup is not only goes several steps beyond. fail proofing the old mistakes has been a blessing to take on. the extra power gained, is simply extra necessary.

                                      if you want to go transcontinent 5 times with it..have at it.

                                      I would love to try one of those machines that measure output levels to gain inspection. california crazy version.

                                      funny enough. this car cannot do the sporty mufflers. the decibals could twitch eyeballs. the after twacks of letting off equally unpleasant. the ebay fart cans found on nearly every ricer F1 wannabe is not an option. I run a full chambered walker turbo muffler at $19.95, welded to stay weld is probably the 200 dollars they are getting at magnaflow.

                                      you have really built an engine, when the exhaust is a fight to keep quiet with normal stuff. the screws in the dash of your counterbalanced engine will let you know when you got it.

                                      power numbers don't matter.

                                      the output does.
                                      Last edited by boxer3main; April 27th, 2012, 06:02 AM.
                                      Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                                      • Re: attacking a monojet

                                        79 to 80 jet differences

                                        I forgot to mention the jet differences, what was noticable.
                                        the 80 jet needed a .25 turn in on idle screw. timing sounds advanced now..the pitter pattering tease. thta is its best idle. could be main jet ready to rip into a fuel delivery with enthusiasm. this is good news.

                                        this may be the engines normal, it is old.

                                        choking the cai by a few mm was the correct thing to do (the wheel bearing race and fan grate). normal carbs wide open no plenum or plenum on top of carb, use the choke venturi at the carb of course.. I turned the carb into two feet cold. Needed some extra think.

                                        I also found the 3inch Hg number was a wide open throttle test by engineers. so 250 cfm is way under rated when you go beyond it with cool density.

                                        it is no wonder I am reaming a #80 jet..going beyond normal numbers. (80 is supposed to be this barrels big one). finding the monsters they crammed to death on the 250ci engines was a tragedy. the giant jets belong on a propane setup or somewhere else.

                                        a real shame what they did to this carb..rochester knew what they were doing. GM demanded it do something insane.


                                        oil pump.
                                        Here is the strangest error, more an anomoly. created a snappy twacker at the oil, along with pressure cap not spaced enough. Both sending units plugged in was not a good idea.. I finally plugged the little sending unit today (the left one in photo) with a hard steel plug. one less springy thump.I guess this was designed to ground one item as well. both units are 1 wire gadgets. The pump in car is baked, painted, very hard..can't be the slob of squishy japanese alloy they played with anymore (I love what I did to it).

                                        I use pcv connections as oem type balanced. it works. nothing into atmosphere. the problem is oil system can encounter fuel system and try to own a squirt or two of throttle. thumpy little timers have to go...

                                        I want modern. I am sure I got it.

                                        this really does get precise.
                                        Attached Files
                                        Last edited by boxer3main; April 28th, 2012, 10:55 AM.
                                        Atomization is excitement, not temperature.


                                        • Re: attacking a monojet

                                          part throttle screw

                                          I don't know why they call it the part throttle screw.

                                          "the part throttle metering orifice” screw. I found the little chevtte carb had the same screw. no change n taper, threads, length. The chevette carb was brand new, so I took the screw out and swapped it into the car’s truck carb.

                                          upon further analyzing.. I did miss something. the size of that hole in this chevette carb is at least 70% smaller than the one in the car now. I turned screw in all the way, let it out 1/2 turn. I used to have it at 1.5 turns. No leaks, I won't have to cap it. can get at it for future adjusting easier. no difference in runtime yet to notice. A longer run in coming days. something is stuck in something, valves rapping. This is even more MPG, the tighter I can keep the screw in.
                                          I had an intuition that the truck carb unscrewed itself behind the permanent cap. after drilling cap to get at screw, I noticed it was way out. wherever the truck carb came from seriously must have been single digits mpg dumping fuel all over.(truck carb simply refers to the 250ci, the exact serial number for my carb puts it in a camaro straight six)

                                          edit: the cold start. best one yet. that is about all I noticed so far. I did not go to full warm, or even drive..just cold start.
                                          Last edited by boxer3main; April 29th, 2012, 04:54 PM.
                                          Atomization is excitement, not temperature.