attacking a monojet

[Barry Donovan]

cold start anomoly

the car was acting dead on cold starts..engine whirled and whirled.

it occured to me the click I was listening for is a relay and not the fuel pump.
after 3 minutes or so, I heard the pump faintly, car tried to start, tried that again (key off then on)..
pump full whirl, car started nice. no skippers of rich or lean.
I just had to learn how to start.

I was trying to figure what triggered yet another backwards reading..

looking at the weather resolved it. 84 down to 40. I am glad to have made my own mount to hear the pump.

cold start resolved.

this does conclude my guess that the 1978 monojet is very precise. fuel off is off. the hitachi with no needles in the jets just dumped it into a sloppy ass body shaking flood of bad fuel air...for up to 5 minutes at a time in the cold starts.

another thing that is kicking in is the old EGR pathway, I am using it as a vacuum port to self clean. it took 30 days to find that one apparently. this routine is very familiar, and it is never a fast one. (I block egr off on the ea82)

the monojet simply "barrels" (pun) its way through the old oddities coming clean.

I knew to stay patient when my dad and his mechanic wanted to resemble the old subes fuel system for his 550 cat. check valve on the return line, increase to 90psi.

big or small.. same stuff proportionately.


to finish what I was getting to.. the fuel pump delay, all while relay acknowledged a full pressure shut off. I was not wrong about the speakers being a crazy circuit with their shared grounds. the only thing to notice since gaining a full four channel, and letting the delco do the grounding safely has been the fuel pump..and it is coming back to its new –12v clean path. the delco does not let the speaker ground side fly back into the chassis like a ghetto boom box shaking old ladies and babies. I may have deciphered two mysteries..why I like the delco, and the air fuel. Intuition was luck.
the more gm parts the better.
I still feel bad about this brand, more than crapping on it. it is the worlds only boxer for regular people in cold places. the errors are no worse than a 1957 boeing 717, I stay loyal to some things and humor some others...the old plane taught me no bias at all.

speaking of cold..something let go all the way to the battle at the intake (coolant runs through it to feed heater core). I now have the most powerful flowing heater this car has never seen in 25 years. the air fuel path was bothered from one end of car to the other..must have been using the air pressure and coolant to ground..and also reveals why I wanted the carb more as a cathode in charge.

[Barry Donovan]

choke bad

34 years, and my hack job to fix..it finally failed.

found the cold start error..this cold snap heading towards 19F, wind is howling. Choke seeming doing nothing.
145.5 ohms?! anyone know what this means? I did repair this on my own.

something tells me this is close enough to a crazy problem circuit to scrap it. It simply was not working. The baby monojet choke to the rescue, it measured 2.2 ohms. The baby monojet was so young, there was a new odor in the choke housing…unlike the truck carb I have on the car. stickers still on the carb. Got more than my 22 bucks out of a carb I won’t even be using (the choke alone is now 23 dollars for rochester). So the truck carb now has the needles, seats, and choke from the baby one.
cold start fixed. I also was sure to find a more gentle circuit thn subaru oem choke wired, also carb related.. I used the vent valve (always on or off to the key) , just one plug over from were the thickr choke wire is. this should aid in longevity. trying it out, it came right to life, watched it open…did I mention it is damn cold out there?

edit:
the 145.5 ohms may be related to the oil pump crazy gauge. to exceed 135 ohm, brings guge to zero, oil can only read to 85psi..where does the reading go wehen the gauge protects itself? my version of the pump hits 110 psi. Why the choke not on the car reading an oil gauge? Not uncommon, but it is a mystery no doubt. the carb was so dirty, the resistor rings in the choke may have been alkalinic, made itself into a battery that cannot hold anything but a reading.

resistors do more than resist.. there is an equal and opposite reaction to everything. I also found on a chevelle forum, that 2.2 ohms is very much a new choke, possibly never used (it looks and smells it)

[Barry Donovan]

rochester choke deciphered?

I was looking at rockautos parts for rochester choke..

the little chevette reads 2.2 ohm.
I dismantled the bigger truck choke for the actual resistor (case infection bypassed)..and got a 4.2 ohm..

I then went and counted the bimetal loops for the both of them..
the truck has 7, the chevette has six.

not only that..
but under the chevette plugin is not stainless steel, a weight difference I did not notice. the chevtte seems well protected, one piece casing. the truck was made to look like you could take it apart and fix it yourself.

the truck one is literally heavier.

this means (guessing) the big engines do any choke, the little ones need the least resistance..and they do call it R-1 on any model (that is known as lead resistor for a system)
I would not be surprised to find a v8 version at 8 ohm or at least above 4.

the little cars simply use the choke pulloff instead of waiting for the big choke to open..but a choke that responds fast, and cannot pull as much weight goes with a factory install anyway (simply nice for the little ones). hence the big engine can do any.(they suck it right open and need a fighting choke bimetal)

edit:

thanks to the photos at rockauto..

the 5.7 liter gets a 9 spun bimetal (not electric), the six and 8 cyl a 7 (electric), and the chevette 6 (or less- I may have a 5 being the way I counted)..if the same company makes the different chokes.
I have since found a 454 version at 6 windings and called an r4...and seeming no electric connection..in 1978.
mixed up silly mess they got there. where is the r1 ?
it is the 70s looking through this stuff.
1982 has the electric for the 5.7, this will go back to even the little chevette of 1976.


to ensure the heaviest choke, the 4.1 or greater is the big one..if you are looking for one, as electric. the little one is still $5.20 listed under 1978 chevette.. I may get upset with it, can't say for sure yet.
the 1982 5.7 electric is $34.99.. I could guess where the bigger ohms are by price. resistors cost money.

that means the resistor must get bigger as the windings get bigger, needs more heat to move more bimetal...so the 2.2, and 4.2 ohm readng is correct.

keep the choke lubed for the little ones, they won't do as much work..the low resistance is a good thought, as 4 ohm is my car speakers.

[Barry Donovan]

zener diodes

finally finding american english to describe zener diode..

A Zener diode lies at the heart of every voltage regulator circuit. A regular diode allows current flow only in one direction, similar to a one-way valve in a pipe carrying water. A Zener diode, has a unique property, however: When the voltage level reaches a certain point, it "breaks over" and allows current flow in both directions. It acts much like a one-way valve with a spring that opens all the way when the water pressure in the pipe rises to a certain level---a predefined break-over point called the breakdown voltage. For example, a 12-volt Zener will break down at 12 volts, preventing the output of the circuit from exceeding 12 volts. Since the diode itself does not break, it will last for years.

Read more: Voltage Regulator Projects | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_6938319_vol...#ixzz1qKokyLbE

I am going to add two for the two wires going to the carb.
I contemplated a giant cmos..don't know if it exists.

zener diodes will work. I found these two on ebay, not knowing how to size them, I just searched for 5 watt, like the 12v resistor I have on the back of the carb. I noticed they sold alot of them..an indicator they do ok.

I also found an example of using a car alternator to charge batteries in a solar panel after the panel is deemed useless.
they did not trust the regulator built in either...

my own problem with the car is a pulse many times stronger than the clock. this tick may be a nuclear element (with no explanation). it is revealed at 2k rpm..pulses the whole engine into changing rpms. forcing the juice kills the little bugger eventually.

I have never had a success story here with any vehicle. they take on similarities as my dads 2million mile rig in the 80s, as my cars 100k miles did, in the 80s (a nuclear story I won't forget)..and that makes cars repulsively weak. I fight back now with some nerd.

the tick could even be an outside source..maines ground literally rejects...oh my goodness..itself, for 6 months or more at a time.

I do not want to tell you my very first fuel injection story.

edit:
more thoughts (never can overthink a bomb)..
I installed big round fuel injection cams, robust...subaru decided to go right up tight like modern engines in 1993..those are the cams I am using, pushing boundaries with solid lifters...beyond subaru.

I have now finally figured why the electrical side of the carb, simple stuff...needs pressure like an injector.

there is a last laugh.. I won't say whose it is.

[Barry Donovan]

fact finding part #

awesome site for rochester carb info:

http://newagemetal.com/pages/Chevrolet/index.html

I downloaded a 45 meg pdf to find that the carb in this thread (not the chevtte one)
is from a 1978 camaro or nova with automatic transmission...250ci, and it was a non-california.
I am further searching as to why the venturi measered to be 1 and 1/16th..the smallest available was supposed to be 1 and 3/16th. The 250 is supposed to get the big venturi at 1 and 7/16ths..maybe I am reading the measure wrong... outside diameter or in?
I measured in.

if my ID measure is almost as big as the small venturis OD.. it is safe to assume I am using the big monojet...and for 78 a vacuum progressive was somehow related to an auto trans. maybe that diaghram off the pasenger side of tranny. (my delta88 had one)

and the thorttle is often read as 42mm..mine is a direct crossover measure to 43mm...but 1 and 11/16ths " is agreeable everywhere.

210 or 250cfm? they both had the same throttle.
having had a japanese 280cfm I still think is a 140, the gm 210cfm is more like a 420.

[Barry Donovan]

hot plug

monojet sent it over into another realm...
swapping #6 iridium IX for #5...and see what happens.
(ngk works the numbers backwards)
with 15 years behind me and 1 engine model..

I have had the prehistoric oem spark plugs pluck out of the head leaving a raped hole...at the 20 year mark and 100k miles. I have melted the head needing all four holes..or head dumpster bound.

I of course played with every setting and changed compression and on and on.
iridium ix, regular new iridium, regular oem as new, bosch platinum (I like that ne..but it likes my catalyst)

I am now in a realm for the first time ever...
to need a number 5 iridium.

the air fuel is willing, there is some slop..but no excuse, the warm up time is insane.

oversized header+monojet+ accel wires (the hot rod old school) and coil, sleeved plug holes (now steel), 57 foot pounds on the heads..+3mm round on the intake runner, ported head..
can't forget what brass copper radiator does for aluminum boxer.(I was actually going to swap back when I did the radiator, stayed patient)

there really is a time for hot plugs.

I am excited in a way. I have had twenty engines to call my own...never needed a hot plug.

of course, that goes along with being I am the only one I know who took a 60s type design liquid cooled n/a boxer into the realm it deserved.. (they do some things backwards as they climb the ranks)

I can only assume I exceeded volume of air fuel, or velocity.. or both. never done it before ever. like blowing out its own candle.

edit:
th never ending babble got some old bosch platinums. the timing advance and retard responds to moving the distributor again..the iridiums over ruled something. I won't be using iridiums again. The bosch is the only plug that stayed white hot..scraped the oxides off to find it is like new..the four I kept were quite a pile of miles.
wr8dpx
I will add one new one (i somehow took a washer off of one) and go with that. hesitation at off idle again, like the first day I installed the carb.

the end of changing plugs and settings.

adavance and retard comes in handy.. I can burn the head or leave it retarded. the bosch is crazy fast. I did like those the most..

[Barry Donovan]

choke pull spring loaded

I was losing cold starts..could not figure it out.
starving, starving..no start, I can hear the pump brong it up to speed.

I looked over the hitachi, remembering the main jet is smaller than a human hair , and the primary barrel venturi less than 3/4 inch..

that car started at 28 below and many below zeros close to that over 15 years. in fact I feel old trying to remember.

I finally noticed the choke pull on the hitachi was spring loaded to shut choke right away after shutdown.
I took it off, wondering if it fit the monojet. it not only fit, it looks like it belongs. I even used the cup at one end to hold spring from being a slob on the linkage. Nice. the other end fit rightinto a groove on the choke pull. makes me wonder if this was a universal part for carbs.

of course the first try to start after installing is already starved, as choke was still open by being a little warm from last shutdown... but I did get a start alot sooner.

this next cold start with choke that shut right away after shutdown should get it. The monojet still starts without eventually, but if it needs a little think to get it going.

the big engines do not need it, hence finding a spring loaded choke pull is not all that often for the 250ci monojet.

looking more promising all the time. I must admit I was starting to think negatively until I analyzed the very tiny hitachi...and how to crossover some little things to monojet.

so there ya have it. the main jet is too small to leave choke to close slowly...even at full warm engine. Being the rochester choke is robust, in real hot weather it may over rule spring and stay open a peak..will wait and see. Seems strong enough as of now. the hitcrappy choke was very rugged in position...rochester not so much.The spring should win.



photo with new choke, and the spring and cup borrowed from the hitachi.. it seems a fule filter spring will work there too. Notice the bumps on the choke casing, this indicates rich or lean. Now being able to use those. it also indicates when a choke bimetal has had enough..the choke does not have to fail to find it is getting old. there is indicators (pun). this one is young.

I deciphered the choke wire mystery..it did something with the radio and speakers. Unplugging shared ground killed the choke. they were using feedback after all, to retard the engine spark.

permament engine retarder found..instead of letting static gather for a super spark in the combustion, it allowed feedback to the ohms of speakers, then back to chassis.
intuition for diode was correct. Not needing the diode anymore, but am installing anyway.

My other intuition proved to be true as well: the more rusted the 1980s subaru, the stronger the engine...it fights the non-ecu retard to rust the chassis. Hence chasing feedkack (-12v) to the retard is not easy, in fact, some mechanics still ignore it today because it is "invisible"

unusual combo this one..glad to have tackled it.

I also scraped down throttle shaft plate of paint..this is another bridge by natural aluminum. upper energy seasoning in for the fast ride to the chambers.

I may work this back to the physical full throttle versus letting vacuum go gentle. (that is a monojets race mode)

future thoughts..as this dials in, now normal environment. I am wondering if the #79 jet is anemic.
not enough hot weather, and long runs to be confident of channels swelled in, I wait for mid summer to make decision.

[Barry Donovan]

finale

this is definitely the end of tinkering.
most likely.
maybe.


cold start returned. I have some bosch platinums in.. they get white hot in the boxer.
mystery. electrode flush to insulator like that.

full warm, is the smell of death, oxide..and a .25 gallon coolant went missing..in seconds..
the old 25 year pile of slop is welding itself.

you may not believe what the monojet and all systems working together are conquering...

alloy from mush to super star.

I can leave this long thread right here...hanging.
I don't want to show a good end or a bad.

you can hear this old boxer coming... a low thump into a darn near f1 scream.
I have a very nice spare engine to play with thousands of an inch. this one has been the experiment for 6 tortured years. it is actually a long 25. Alaska to maine with a north carolina muffler shop keychain.
bowels of road kill, battery that must have reversed, hydrochloric acid stuck as a puddle, and carburation emissions so insane, the gov't could have called it terrorism and taken the builders to court.

Diode installed..choke got hot much faster..hmmm. how do I see that monster riding a live wire?

Adjusted back to full throttle, almost..seems this monojet has a .25 that don't match the end peg of wide open, internal to the carb. That must be full throttle. probably the dighram of accelerator pump at the end of its path.that is what it feels like anyway. aftermarket rebuild possibly somewhere along the line. the cable fix was so easy I am embarrassed..until realizing I slapped this together in the cold. my hands were nimble today...like my mind. Both need warmth. Gave it the little itty bitty piece simply so. I refuse to let this engine have the upside down heat for rising.. if it means a spark plug so hot it is not recommended for any engine.

away it goes...
the most this has been down, is 24 hours in a december for a headgasket. tore it aprt like a go kart, back together..
I really wonder what the ending is going to be.

The monojets singular fuel air big enough to clean it out..hard telling how long it goes now. of course one terrorist of chemical vandalism would not halp any. I risk this car on the net anyway.

I declared it a one time build world record already. when it got cold, too cold to even pump its own heater..this selfish engine was saving itself and noone else. it can do that right into 60F in the sun.

[Barry Donovan]

attacked by a monojet

just when I thought the war was over.

I guess I made a cathode from a diode..the car is in a giving mood.
at 230 am, no start..used start fluid. got lit touching the hood..twice. then the stink of the chemical that was in the carb started flying. I do have full throttle. Accelerator pump must have some residual something. Almost a bellow of a full throttle..close enough, being as pigged as something got. Gaining proper plugs is as far as I can go. nothing left to fight with.
the valves are making noise..Not at full power at all. It must have built up a good load letting go of the thief iridiums created. It took several days to be where it is at…just sitting. I wonder where those plugs packrat stuff anyway.
I just don’t know if it is going to make it sometimes. what will the end be for this engine? I have a desire to floor it for 110 miles as fast as it will go…
bosch wr9dpx+
just grabbed at four of these. awaiting delivery.
$8.23 with coupon.
the plus side is the bosch does something way different. Even at the wrong heat range…and using the obsolete non plus version. seems to leave the base of engine alone a lot more. I still ignore oil pressure reading.
stepping up heat range one more than where it is at will give 70 to 120F per plug hotter. I may try a number 10..as hot as bosch makes.

..and seriously. I am sick a little. I need to teach the ricer I am not an anode. I am an air force veteran..but that should be no excuse.

[Barry Donovan]

counter attack

awaking from the strike in the left arm...
I found another bolt to put on top of carb to act as the electrical side of the pull. A longer thinner one..get it in the airstream. this bolt normally holds the plenum (it does alot more than that). My boot needs one to simply fit under it. plenty of room.

got car started, no starting fluid needed. valves rapping where it left off last evening. another full burn in "mode". 2800 rpm, nearly 30minutes..
all is quiet.

odors of old hg fail...plugs are acting in the chamber, not in the head. sounds that need to stay inside are heading towards in, muffler acts like one.

the iridiums no more. they nearly blew the engine. I look forward to bosch number 9..it seems guessing games after trial and error has found this engines real plug after 25 years. I do have the obsolete platinums in..I spotted the notes for the new plus on their way. not to wander away from the monojets subject..but if you have a regular ea82.. it takes bosch heat range 8. I have steel plug sleeves, (it altered to no advice, only trial and error) that needs two steps beyond oem. oem number must be for turbo..(NGK #6 is the cold plug)

the disappearing act on the oil is the resistance change on the surfaces..I was looking forward to that.
it wants oil now, not to fight with. this engine runs anyway, any mode..it is sideways, needs no physics...unless you want calm runtime in a civilized world (and that is my goal)

when it does go back to normal, it even loses fuel mileage..but the runtime is exotic. I found it sneaking past my 30mpg goal anyway...I'll be happy if it drops a couple mpg.

the monojet has alot to do...and it is doing it.

this weekend is a 630 mile trip blooming in the plans..
simply waiting for plugs, the test..and I should get a full spare.

the "rat race" as grandma (rip..native of boston in the 1920s) called it is where it is planned to be going.

[Barry Donovan]

attack by a monojet #2

10pm. started car..noticed something way tighter in the oil pumping. it is trying to hang onto a prime for the first time in a year. I only changed the top bolt on the carb to longer and thinner, to get it in sight of the end of the duct. I turn on headlights..on for a split second, a static snap and off. switch still on, I assume fuse. I unintentionally flick the high beam, its got this momentary euro style high beam flicker for when this 90hp does 220mph on the autobahn.(hehehe). anyway, the lights came back on. no blown fuse, no odors…
the car revolves around the bolt sticking up on top of the monojet.
Exhaust note, as if I have not been surprised each of my 5 years of de-runting this old buggy…wow. “Never heard anything like it..” – version 5.

no worries on this one. I found the htiachi choke was never hooked up by the factory..this was the result back then too. only to learn, the choke wire plays with subaru oem radio speakers. this leads me to the final intuition to unplug the last blue wire in the otreaches of the car (all the weirdness is color blue..shared ground, choke...) and that would be window washer bottle. If I have to weld that quarter beyond the 3/16ths american it is now (washer bottle and pump is behind it- it has rusted 5 years in a row..way too freaking fast)...I may start with my own dashboard next.

#9 plugs is going to synch this even further...into the unknown build I go..even further.(should be here in few days)

with 30ft of wire added, delcos version of radio ground (pleasantly safe for real).. this must be new paths and a whiff of spring to make it leap. My first go with outrageous snappers ws killing all egr circuitry (5 years ago) ..no computer left japanese engineers to think way too freaking much on how to make it work. That was a 10 amp gain that day...and it stayed.

I also learned copper core plugs are the same age as my sube. I did not know they were that young. I bet they got incorrect heads up (pun) on performance .. hence all the gadgets. platinum plugs and a centered cam is the best run ever...it did not exist back then, like the 5000 volt coil they used ..can't get that today (extinct - too small to make sense)

a genius is ahead of itself. Not enough to satisfy it, people let that genius die.

[Barry Donovan]

coolant + intake

car no start.
quick shot of fluid starts up no skip farts, floods or starving..
something static is synching, battling...oh the ambivelance.

I found a coolant line just sitting there capped, no need for it anymore. it stood straight up in the back of the carb. I guess i found the static sneaky getaway...did it use the bolt I have in the end of coolant line..?
I could guess. I took hose off and found a heavy duty plug, dropped it onto connection down low at the source..
height of coolant now below intake.

why did that do something? who knows...
expecting a hesitation as per routine.. I was taking off from a stop on a downhill slope into the gap in traffic on the busy main street and underestimated my compilation of "stuff".

the little sube like to light em up sometimes apparently.
the surprise led me to think of float bowl level. downhill raises it.

one more adjustment, raising the float bowl fluid, some hot plugs...and heck bent on making the 600 mile round trip planned.

if the take off gained in launch like that at all times...I would launch this for fun at a .25 mile to see where it is at.

a hint I am not at a normal setiing..the rochestor bellow on a CAI is not happening. that ain't right. the weight in the bowl is the steady kicker to the 20 inches of well lit vacuum...raising fluid, and try to keep the young paint good taking top of carb up. seems baked already anyway.

edit:
a possible "duh" moment.

taking the baby rochester apart..same quantity in float bowl level..the four cyl had raised jet, and seat for float..
and the float is smaller, leaving even more gas in the bowl than the normal low riding jet on the bigger engines.

will swap the little float in , take the big one out..gives more gas in the carb to resemble GMs version of the four cyl monojet (not the vega one).

that would make every detail covered. there is nothing left to do.

this does make sense on a tiny jet. something has got to make it move initially. GM chose weight of the gas itself (like most carbs). Reason for having more weight on a little jet is simple..it is a tighter hole to get the gas through.

[Barry Donovan]

floats


the big float. more common. This is in the carb now.

the little float I have on hand. this was in the chevette carb. resembles the old brass floats. I will be putting this one in. the big float is going into the chevette carb with the big needle and seat. I guess they need to stay together.
the toe of float should be around .25 inch from the edge to set the level.
link to brass float

weight changer no doubt. give the hot spark plugs more to munch on.

[Barry Donovan]

new float

I stuck my nose right in the chevette float. it has never been used. I am certain the carb I bought is NOS..
I will give the old float to go with the sale. the chevette one is in the car now.

changed level, weight..more fuel in the bowl. valves had no desire to smack around. Idle gained 100+. this means dropping at set screw closes throttle valve a little more. this may be the missing cold start. A tease to start and not quite get there..
The heater started working alot sooner.

other than mentioned, not much else to notice.

being a solid lifter, the brass floats of old are most welcome.. I may swap again. I found a carb guru has some bad things to say about "nitrophyl". Alot of orirignal builds by GM seem to be the winner don't they..if it means reeling in 40s years and being falsely accused of "behind the times".

[Barry Donovan]

nitrophyl breakdown



this is some serious stuff..went and found an msds sheet.
seems an incomplete test of chemicals of course, this is usa. The people and innocent children and pets let the scientists know if it is ok.
burn temp, unknown..but wil release hydrogen sulfide and formaldehyde for your babies.
the gentle tickle and sharp pricks in you chest will go away once it pumps through the heart.

I went and looked this up after talking with my dad..I mentioned chest pain every time I take float bowl cover off..blamed gas vapor. I then stuck this in a can of toluene to clean it..the can got hot.
WTF?!
I soon realized it is this crazy float with a life of its own.

the smell of sulfur, smacking valves while engine running...all this the float decomposing.

I am going for the brass. This float will not be shipped with the chevette carb. Optimistically, the new float is all square, and seems to have a shinier harder shell than the one in photo. I wonder if it was an error..or maybe the needle rubbed the protective surface...either way. it is some carzy pile of crap.

I found this product was invented by rogers corp right hear in new england.