I have a 5.3 liter LS1 from a 2007 classic truck and the alternator has two small wires (one orange with a white stripe and one purple with a white stripe). I have been told that the purple is an excitor field wire and the orange is an indicator wire that communicates to the ecm that the alternator is functioning. My question is: Is there a way to hook up the dummy light in the stock dash by jumping off of the orange indicator wire or am I out of luck getting these two systems to work together? I have removed the voltage regulator and connected the blue and brown wires from the original 67 voltage regulator harness to complete a signal to the dummy light (I was doing this after reviewing the wiring schematic from GM). The alternator is the high output version for the LS1 if that is important.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
Collapse
X
-
Re: LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
is what I would do would be a test that will put the alternator in peril....
#1, hook up the alternators main hot wire. from there check to see if either the purple or orange wires are hot.
If the white wire is hot, with a fuse inline, touch the purple to the main hot wire. if it doesn't blow the fuse check voltage at the battery. if it is charging then proceed to check the white wire that it is no longer hot.
this is just a guess at how it works. some other scenarios:
both the white and purple are hot, repeat test as above.
the white wire shows no voltage, check for continuity to ground, if continuity start it and and see if continuity remains
white wire is the exciter (unlikely)
-
Re: LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
This is what my factory manual says for my '99 Z28.
Your alternator should have 4 terminals, they would be P, I, L and S.
From the manual.
P: is connected to the stator and may be connected externally to a tachometer or other device.
I: can be connected directly to battery voltage to power the alternator.
L: Voltage must be stepped down to power the alternator.(input from ECM)(and you can not run 12volts to this terminal)
S: may be connected to an external voltage control, if the S terminal is not used, the internal gernerator voltage is used for control
As for my car it only uses one wire to the "L" terminal. If you are still using the ECM then your good, if your not using the ECM then you'll need to connect a 12v source to the "I" terminal to power the alternator.
And one more thing, look at the connector, it should have each wire location labeled.
Comment
-
Re: LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
I have learned more about the alternator.
It is a DR44 160amp high output for 5.3 liter 2007 and later 1500 series chevy trucks
The alternator is "switched" on when the ecm sends 5 volts to one of the two wires in the two wire pigtail.
The second wire conducts a 12 volt signal back to the ecm to tell it that it is charging.
Now I just have to figure which one is which I guess by meter testing before I terminate any of the connections.
Any other ideas???
Comment
-
Re: LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
Originally posted by seeredI have learned more about the alternator.
It is a DR44 160amp high output for 5.3 liter 2007 and later 1500 series chevy trucks
The alternator is "switched" on when the ecm sends 5 volts to one of the two wires in the two wire pigtail.
The second wire conducts a 12 volt signal back to the ecm to tell it that it is charging.
Now I just have to figure which one is which I guess by meter testing before I terminate any of the connections.
Any other ideas???
Comment
-
Re: LS1 in 1967 camaro alternator wiring questions
Originally posted by seeredI have learned more about the alternator.
It is a DR44 160amp high output for 5.3 liter 2007 and later 1500 series chevy trucks
The alternator is "switched" on when the ecm sends 5 volts to one of the two wires in the two wire pigtail.
The second wire conducts a 12 volt signal back to the ecm to tell it that it is charging.
Now I just have to figure which one is which I guess by meter testing before I terminate any of the connections.
Any other ideas???
this is assuming that it does not send 12v even with the key off (ie 5v reference dead) else you will need to add a second relay
may still need to return the 12v lead to the ECM, in which case a diode may be needed also.
Comment
Comment