This '67 Camaro that I bought has a TH350. Against my better judgement I still bought the car. Reverse seems to work fine. Put it in drive & it moves as though you just tossed an anchor out of the trunk. Being a 4-speed guy I know zero about automatics other than how to yank them for a 4-speed. Am I rapidly approaching that point here or is it something simple?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Calling all automatic experts............
Collapse
X
-
Calling all automatic experts............
...when you got a fast car, you think you've got everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpvfmSL6WkMTags: None
-
"IF" someone was just in there, *maybe* they didnt
torque down the valvebody correctly and a new gasket
and retorque will fix it.
i kinda doubt it though. automatics either work or they dont.
if it feels like the parking brake is on and its NOT reving unusually
high rpm wise, my guess is an internal leak between forward
& reverse causing "D" and "R" to apply at same time,
kinda like a transbrake only not in a good way.
my guess is its time for a rebuild or a swap.
-
My limited automatic experience is telling me that there used to be several different ways to check the fluid. Running or not, in gear or not, etc. Depending on the transmission. Is there a "correct" way on a TH350....when you got a fast car, you think you've got everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpvfmSL6WkM
Comment
-
Pretty much all US-made auto transmissions are checked with the fluid warm, in "N" or "P", on a flat and level surface, engine running. It really will climb up the stick as it heats up and the dipsticks are marked assuming that the fluid is at operating temp. As you're filling a trans after a repair you'll need to work the trans selector thru all positions to send oil thru all passages and it's best to recheck after a short drive.
Now Chevysbytroy or someone who knows more than I do will chime in a and say I'm full of it and they may be right - all my info is pretty dated.
Dan
Comment
-
Im gonna say the pump is prolly worn out, or the torque converter is. Either is cheap enough to replace both. Plus a filter and fluid change would also be good. If you here a clunking sound as it goes in gear your case may be damaged. They make "case savers" to put in place of worn out lugs. Good Luck!
EDIT: No Dan I would never say that ;)Last edited by chevybuytroy; May 26, 2017, 08:56 PM.
- Likes 2
Comment
-
Clean fluid & up to the full mark on the dipstick checks out. After rereading my original post I noticed that I had neglected to mention that after the pooch-like start the car accelerates fine. Then I read this;
Especially the posts by "mike327" & "smallblock" on the details about the torque converter change. Since I am playing with one arm tied behind my back on this one I was just wondering what you experts think on that?
...when you got a fast car, you think you've got everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpvfmSL6WkM
Comment
-
Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
if it feels like the parking brake is on
and its NOT reving unusually high rpm wise
my guess is an internal leak between forward
& reverse causing "D" and "R" to apply at same time
kinda like a transbrake only not in a good way.
.
so...does it actually feel like an "anchor", like somethings
holding you back? or is it just doggy out of the hole?
a larger cam will magnify a too small converter as well-
is this car stock or rumpity-rumpy?
Comment
-
Well, when I said "playing with one arm tied behind my back", I meant that I got very little information on any detailed question that I asked the seller. He claimed to have purchased the car for his wife without knowing that she had already found the one that she wanted. So he had only owned it for a couple of months & had not done anything with the car. I gambled (and lost) that it was an older restoration.
I do not think that there is anything actually holding the car back, just very doggy from a dead stop. Someone has put some time & money into the engine & it most likely has more than a stock cam in it. Although it does not sound like a cam with a lot of overlap like an old school hot rod cam did.
...when you got a fast car, you think you've got everything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpvfmSL6WkM
Comment
-
Originally posted by 67 Camaro View PostClean fluid & up to the full mark on the dipstick checks out. After rereading my original post I noticed that I had neglected to mention that after the pooch-like start the car accelerates fine. Then I read this;
http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...=1495900496154
Especially the posts by "mike327" & "smallblock" on the details about the torque converter change. Since I am playing with one arm tied behind my back on this one I was just wondering what you experts think on that?
I am no expert on transmissions, but, depending on finances, I would either drop the auto and put a pump, mild converter (22-2500 stall), and a shift kit into what you have, or, go full bore and throw a TR-6060 in it. maybe see if ChevyByTroy would take your trans in for a rebuild and dyno test....Last edited by silver_bullet; May 28, 2017, 06:48 AM.Patrick & Tammy
- Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??
Comment
-
Doggy off the line? Could be the cam as suggested, if you can leave it in first and run the rpm's up and then stab it and it runs just might be. Possible timing issue? Just looking at other things that could cause the same scenario. Maybe to tall a gear for engine ( back to cam ). Just some ideas.Pt 2010, Long Haul 2011,12,13,14,15,16,17, 18, 19, 23
If you wait, all that happens is that you get older
Comment
-
In derby, rev in usually last to quit.. I have lost forwards but able to move with reverse.. Something went wrong.. I doubt timing moved during a hit for me..
It could be that in your case, as the hotter built motors need perfect timing and mixtures
Play with the timing a bit and see how it responds.
I suspect maybe a vac leak topside somewhere.. Carb base, hose..
Comment
Comment