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  • Cheap 4L80e controller how-to

    https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...ans-controller 4L80E Cheap stand alone


    EDIT 9/26/16 - Now I have over 400 miles on this stand alone transmission controller. I also recently turned on the torque converter clutch to activate in overdrive. Everything is working perfectly and shifts just like it should.

    As the subject says. This is for those guys who are running MegaSquirt, carb or something other than a factory computer for their engines. This write-up is for OPERATION OF THE 4L80E TRANSMISSION. I (Dale Follett) can write up how to make it work on a 4L60e too if theirs enough interest into it.

    History:
    I (Dale Follett) was tired of having my LS engine/4L80e transmission wired up for full manual valve body and wanted it to shift itself automatically like a factory unit. This could easily be done by swapping around the entire engine computer and harness back to a factory style PCM, BUT my car is wired up with MegaSquirt 2 and I like its features. A Microsquirt and 4L80e harness is $450.00, but thats a bit much to swing just for automatic transmission control and I wanted a cheaper option. This is what I came up with, only cost 2 HP tuners Licencing credits and a PCM from the junkyard (Total of $125.00) and some of my time.

    Required Parts or Tools>
    HP tuners interface or someone who has a HP tuners interface.
    0411 PCM that was a throttle body drive by cable setup. Does not matter if it was a 4L60E or 4L80E BUT having a computer that ran your transmission from the factory from the junkyard is easier.
    All your normal wiring crap. Soldering Iron, wire strippers, electrical tape or if you want to be fancy heat shrink, wire, etc. All the Transmission electrical connectors, and the Factory PCM electrical connectors, and a OBD2 diagnostics port connector for the HP tuners interface to PCM communications.

    As already stated this is for the 4L80E GM transmission WITH THE UPDATED PASS THROUGH TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR.

    The only required PCM inputs from the engine is only RPM and throttle position. The rest of the PCM's inputs come from the transmission itself.

    Biggest thing here is PCM selection. You need a PCM that runs a 4L80E preferably or 4L60E that also reads the crankshaft position wheel. Example, my firebird setup is running a 4.8L LS gen 3 engine that has the 24X wheel. So for the PCM or tune file, it needed to be out of a vehicle that had the LS 24X crankshaft position sensor wheel so the PCM's RPM input would read accurately. If your running a older style 350 small block chevy you would need a PCM out of a chevy express van and setup the engine for the same crankshaft position sensor and wheel to get the correct RPM input into the PCM.

    The next thing is TPS. For us using EFI this is no big deal because we already have a TPS sensor. For those of you who are looking into doing this for your carburated setups, you'll need to fabricate a mount onto your carb for a TPS sensor. This PCM REQUIRES A TPS INPUT in order to function correctly as a transmission control module.

    Now on how to wire it in. Their are no pre-made wiring harness' for this so you will have to make your own harness. It is not that hard though and NOTHING compared to building a engine wiring harness. I go by pinout count and connector pin counts to do my wiring harness' because the wiring colors may be different from make and model vehicle your swapping parts around. Just makes life simpler because the wire colors may change from X to X but the PCM's pins and connector pinouts do not change The PCM and wiring diagrams I use are for the 0411 or P01 GM PCM that has the Blue and Red PCM connectors. The Blue connector is referred to as C1 and the Red connector is referred to as C2.


    The Non Transmission related inputs needed to the 0411 PCM:
    0411 PCM Ground (GOOD ENGINE/TRANSMISSION GROUND OR BATTERY GROUND):
    C1 Blue connector Pin 1 & 40
    C2 Red Connector Pin 1 & 40

    0411 PCM 12VDC Power (20 amp fuse, wired directly to battery positive):
    C1 Blue connector Pin 20 & 57

    0411 PCM 12VDC Ignition Power (20 amp fuse, wired directly to ignition switch and needs power in both run and crank, this is what turns "on" the 0411 PCM):
    C1 Blue connector Pin 19 & 75


    If you want a "Check Transmission Light" or more commonly known as a check engine light for your transmission.
    The 0411 PCM applies a ground to C2 Pin 46. This could be wired to the ground side of a small light bulb to notify you the 0411 PCM has a code in it for something wrong with transmission function.

    0411 PCM Class 2 Data Communication (Data wire to OBD2 connector PIN 2)
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 58

    0411 PCM TPS "Throttle Position Sensor" Input for EFI equipped vehicles. (This is wired to the SIGNAL wire coming out of the TPS sensor.) For EFI equipped vehicles tap into the SIGNAL ONLY.
    C2 Red Connector Pin 24

    0411 PCM CKP "Crankshaft Position Sensor" Input for EFI equipped vehicles. (This is wired to the SIGNAL wiring coming out of the CKP sensor.) For EFI equipped vehicles tap into the SIGNAL ONLY.
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 12


    FOR CARB OR NON-EFI EQUIPPED INSTALLS:
    0411 PCM TPS "Throttle Position Sensor"
    C2 Red Connector Pin 24 to Signal Wire coming out of TPS Sensor

    C1 Blue Connector Pin 46 to 5VDC Power wire for TPS Sensor
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 46 to Ground wire for TPS Sensor

    0411 PCM CKP "Crankshaft Position Sensor"
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 12 to Signal Wire coming out of CKP Sensor

    C1 Blue Connector Pin 2 to Power Wire for CKP Sensor
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 21 to Ground Wire for CKP Sensor



    0411 PCM Brake Switch Input. (This is wired to the Positive wire coming from your brake pedal switch to your brake lights.)
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 33



    The Transmission Related Inputs/Outputs needed to the 0411 PCM:
    Because the Transmission connector isnt as clearly marked as the PCM connectors are, heres a diagram. This is looking AT THE CONNECTOR, THE SIDE THAT MATES WITH THE TRANSMISSION






    0411 PCM Torque Converter Clutch Control (Wired to pin S on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 2

    0411 PCM 1-2 Shift Valve (Wired to pin A on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 48

    0411 PCM 2-3 Shift Valve (Wired to pin B on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 47

    0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A (Wired to pin N on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 63

    0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B (Wired to pin R on the transmission connector)
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 17

    0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C (Wired to pin P on the transmission connector)
    C1 Blue Connector Pin 18

    0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Signal (Wired to pin L on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 51

    0411 PCM Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid Control Ground (Wired to pin D on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 8

    0411 PCM Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid Control Power (Wired to pin C on the transmission connector)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 6

    0411 PCM Transmission Input Shaft Speed Sensor (This is the sensor right behind the bell-housing of the transmission. The Input/Output shaft speed sensors on the 4L80E transmission are not polarity sensitive, and just simply need wired to the PCM)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 22 for one wire and C2 Red Connector Pin 23 for the other wire coming from the Input Shaft Speed Sensor

    0411 PCM Transmission Output Shaft Speed Sensor (This is the sensor near the back of the transmission. The Input/Output shaft speed sensors on the 4L80E transmission are not polarity sensitive, and just simply need wired to the PCM)
    C2 Red Connector Pin 20 for one wire and C2 Red Connector Pin 21 for the other wire coming from the Output Shaft Speed Sensor






    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 16, 2017, 09:43 PM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

  • #2
    You DO NOT NEED a neutral safety switch on the transmission and wired to the 0411 PCM to make it function. All this switch did in the factory cars/trucks was inform the Instrument Panel what gear its in for its gear selector display and to not allow the engine to start in any gear but park/neutral. It is a nice safety feature, but not required.

    Ok now that gets the 0411 PCM wired to the Transmission and brake switch and the RPM/TPS required from the engine.

    Next is the Tune File

    The tune file in the PCM must be setup for the engine or crankshaft position sensor wheel currently equipped on the engine in order for it to get a proper RPM signal input. The RPM signal input is required for the WOT shift tables.

    The 0411 PCM WILL REQUIRE A TUNE/FLASH FOR IT TO OPERATE CORRECTLY. If you run it just as is from a junkyard, It will A: go into anti-theft mode because VATS is still enabled, B: go into transmission limp mode and C: possibly not work at all depending what application you pulled your computer out of.

    On my setup, I had a PCM tune file out of a 01 GMC 1500 with a 4.8L and a 4L60e in the control module. I had to get another tune file with the same OS (operating system) my 0411 PCM has that had a 4L80e transmission originally so I could segment swap the transmission and transmission diagnostics segments over to my tune file. IF YOU GET A PCM FROM A VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 4L60E FACTORY AND YOUR RUNNING IT ON A 4L80E OR VICE VERSA THIS SEGMENT SWAP IS REQUIRED FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO FUNCTION! "Ask me how I know".

    All Engine Related DTC's must be turned off EXCEPT for the TPS and CKP DTC's Number P0121, P0122, P0123, P0335 & P0336.
    Leave all Transmission Related DTC's under the Engine Diagnostics>DTC's turned ON that are factory turned on with a PCM thats equipped with a 4L80E EXCEPT P0705 & P0706, these two codes must be turned off if you are not using the Neutral Safety Switch. Leaving the rest of the Transmission DTC's on will allow the 0411 PCM to turn on the MIL light or store a MIL code if there is a issue with the Transmission and will also allow the PCM to go into transmission Limp Mode.

    Under System>General, change the PRNDL equipped to none.
    REMOVE ALL TORQUE MANAGEMENT AND DISABLE ABUSE MODES IN BOTH ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION TABS If this is not done the transmission will not shift correctly.
    Under Trans>Auto Shift Properties>General> Perf Option, select No Switch. This is the tow haul switch, which was hooked to the BCM (Body Control Module) and signalled over the Class 2 Data network to turn on the feature in the PCM. I currently have not found a work around to be able to use this feature. If I do find a way, I will update this wiki page.

    Those are the required settings that need changed over in order for the 0411 PCM to function as a stand alone transmission controller and actually shift the 4L80E transmission correctly. The last of the settings will be dependent on your particular setup. These settings are:
    Gear Ratio and Tire Height (Found under the Edit tab>Gear/Tire Wizard)
    Auto Shift Properties>All tables (modify for the way your transmission is built, wanted transmission characteristics, etc)
    Auto Shit Speed> All tables. These are the ones you'll need to modify for your particular setup to make the transmission shift at the right speed and MPH.

    THE ONLY ISSUE I HAVE CURRENTLY:
    My TPS input at idle is at 25% in the 0411 PCM. This isnt a big issue because you can work around it in the Shift Speed tables. I believe I need to also tap my TPS sensor ground from the 0411 PCM to my MegaSquirt 2's TPS ground, which I believe will fix it. I will update this wiki when this is diagnosed and corrected.

    EDIT 9/26/16 - I found the TPS Issue. Its actually working as its supposed to. I am not running a IAC valve and modified my throttle body for a adjustable idle screw. Anyhow the thottle blades were literally opened between 20-23% for the engine to idle, well it was due to carbon buildup on the throttle body. I cleaned off the carbon and this percentage fell to around 13-15% for the same RPM idle. So its working correctly.


    Below is my R&D and proof of concept video playlist on Youtube:


    Proof of Concept Video
    YouTube Video








    And as always the disclaimer.
    This modification is DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I (Dale Follett) will NOT be held responsible or liable for any damage done to your vehicle due to the results of this modification.


    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 16, 2017, 09:37 PM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

    Comment


    • #3
      I remember seeing a youtube video with a guy that mounted 5 regular light switches to a panel to shift his transmission.

      Comment


      • #4
        Was it 5 or was it 3 ?
        Previously HoosierL98GTA

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Dan Barlow View Post
          Was it 5 or was it 3 ?
          I remember 5, I think the one I saw had the lockup as well. I remember him switching two down for a shift. Its not saying anything other than how simple these complicated transmissions really were.

          Comment


          • #6
            I'll stick with a Microsquirt. Even on non-EFI engines all it needs is a MAP and TPS sensor, then the Tach In wired up to the distributor for RPM. $30 for the transmission plug and $340 for a Microsquirt with 30" of wire harness, all in $370 to control it with a lot more control inputs than an OE PCM.

            I've decided I'm going that route for the 4L60e in my Firebird. I already have a new transmission plug so just $340 away from easy control, and since it CAN's into the megasquirt I don't have to worry about any extra sensors, just two wires for the CAN connection.
            Escaped on a technicality.

            Comment


            • #7
              you know that 411 stuff, it seems to be a good answer..
              several ways to make the tranny control yours anyway.

              oddly enough, all the reasons for swapping out of oem to that 411.. i do not have.
              I am there already with very fast throttle, perfect idle, cold starts, still have EGR, all dummy lights, A/C..

              even after the swap, it seems the auto is still a problem.
              the manual tranny must be the sense of slow on the automatic versions... I can't imagine ramping up any faster on my L30 and the 5 speed.


              have fun..
              Do not blame overall computing, attack tranny directly.
              I'd go with what you got that is working, and add to it cheaply for the trans.
              I also found a tip for shift point firmness going physical shims instead of playing with pressures and latency. Just like the old days.
              Last edited by Barry Donovan; May 16, 2017, 07:21 PM.
              Previously boxer3main
              the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

              Comment

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