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Broken plastic (John Deere LT 155)

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  • Broken plastic (John Deere LT 155)

    I was abusing my equipment and got to close to a tree limb and broke the hood on my riding mower. Not going to get into the fact it should not be plastic.

    Anyway I impulse bought a new bumper / hood hinge when it came in I found the hood was broke and just the new bumper was not going to fix it.

    I need ideas on how you would reattach the broken piece.



    Last edited by Russell; March 12, 2017, 09:01 AM.
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

    PB 60' 1.49
    ​​​​​​

  • #2
    if it's not polyethylene (HDPE), cyanoacrylate (CA - superglue) and some bracing should work pretty good. If it's HDPE, you can forget gluing it. Sew it up with zip ties like a football. Maybe a good time to build a sheetmetal brace that goes behind it all like the way you patch holes in sheetrock... then you could rivet it in several places?



    Frankenzipper for HDPE... with that stuff, the only way you can rejoin it is heat.

    Last edited by Beagle; March 12, 2017, 10:34 AM.
    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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    • #3
      Russell - Next time you're near here we can use some of my body adhesive (the kind new cars are structured with) and cut an aluminum backing plate w/holes then we'll glue the whole thing together. Should do the trick. I've fixed many a bumper cover that way.

      Dan

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      • #4
        Its hard plastic not much give, breaks when I run into stuff, aka as a bad material for a bumper / tractor hood.
        Last edited by Russell; March 12, 2017, 12:51 PM.
        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

        PB 60' 1.49
        ​​​​​​

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        • #5
          Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
          Russell - Next time you're near here we can use some of my body adhesive (the kind new cars are structured with) and cut an aluminum backing plate w/holes then we'll glue the whole thing together. Should do the trick. I've fixed many a bumper cover that way.

          Dan
          I think Dan's referring to panel bond adhesive. That stuffs strong as hell and would definitely 'glue' that hood back together.

          Plastic hoods on a lawn tractor = fail. My cheapass MTD has a steel hood for cryin out loud..
          For as much as John Deere charges for their equipment they could've at least used steel..

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          • #6
            Thanks Dan, with the little man I not sure when we will be getting your way, if its not fixed by then I will bring it.

            I have a tube of liquid nails construction adhesive, and I have a tube of seam sealer (not sure if it's dried up) ?

            Would rather not go with the zip tie method because it the hing of the hood.
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

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            • #7
              Liquid nails might do OK though it's not as strong as the structural adhesive. The structural stuff is 2 part and it takes a special gun to push it out - it gets mixed in a special nozzle that's a part of the system. Anyhow, I have the Lord Fusor system and we can make that happen. If you just want to borrow the gun and take it home so you can make the fix at your own pace we can do that, too.

              Dan

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              • #8
                I knocked the bumper off my JD a few times, but haven't rubbed the plastic hood on anything. I echo Dan but really like Beagles answers
                Escaped on a technicality.

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                • #9
                  I used to wonder why so many people removed the hoods from their riders.

                  That was back when I still had stuff with steel hoods and grills, and real bumpers.

                  Now I simply remove the remaining offensive plastic shards and blend in with the crowd.

                  (We sell a lot of replacement plastic hoods)
                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by STINEY View Post

                    (We sell a lot of replacement plastic hoods)
                    Now we know why they are plastic

                    Those things are EXPENSIVE! If I know how much they cost I would not have been using my riding mower as a weed eater.
                    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                    PB 60' 1.49
                    ​​​​​​

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                    • #11
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	th?id=OIP.pxSDa0hgkAKKdUui5kkb6QDnEs&pid=15.1.jpeg
Views:	1175
Size:	15.8 KB
ID:	1149726 been meaning to put one of these on my rider...
                      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tardis454 View Post

                        I think Dan's referring to panel bond adhesive. That stuffs strong as hell and would definitely 'glue' that hood back together.

                        Plastic hoods on a lawn tractor = fail. My cheapass MTD has a steel hood for cryin out loud..
                        For as much as John Deere charges for their equipment they could've at least used steel..
                        People tend to keep j/D longer, so plastic doesn't rust.. Some this isn't an issue.. others it is..
                        Blaming J/D for the fact that you hit something, is well..
                        As a company, why make a part out of steel that can be hammered back into shape, when you can make it out of plastic and when the yoyo hits something from "hold my beer and watch this" they get a new part sale?? or when the mower is x years old, they buy another as the cost of the replacement part makes it not worth it..
                        Last edited by Mark; March 14, 2017, 06:01 AM.

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                        • #13
                          I still rather deal with rust and dents than broken plastic. Much easier to sand and paint than deal with broken plastic. Also I like my mower, I don't want to buy another one other than the leaking tires and busted hood it's a good mower. Something that is kept for a long time should not be make out of plastic.

                          While I did break the bumper buy running into the house, I was trying to get as close as possible. The hood broke when I was mowing the wood line I was just into the limbs and one got caught in the crack between the grill and the hood. It pulled the hood to the right and the left side broke. This was not the frist time i mowed under the tree limbs normally they just pushed aside. I should have used the weed eater on that area under the tree limbs but I was trying to save time.

                          While I may be a yoyo, and sometimes I drink beer while mowing the grass. I am not blaming them for my actions, I am staying if they selected a stronger material I think it would not have broke.
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                          PB 60' 1.49
                          ​​​​​​

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                          • #14
                            Russell, do you do the thing with your mower where - to mow around the bush/tree things - you swing one leg up over the hood and ride side saddle with your back to the limbs in order to get the grass under the edge of the bush/tree things?

                            Just wondering if I am the only one. The hood on that Cub cadet is steel, with LOTS of scratches and the plastic headlight is trashed. (it was broke when I got it, full disclosure)

                            The neighbors at Mom's seem to get a kick out of it, or maybe they are just watching for the carnage? At home I backhoed those type of bushes out of the ground and into the brush fire, so not as much spectatorship there.

                            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mark View Post

                              People tend to keep j/D longer, so plastic doesn't rust.. Some this isn't an issue.. others it is..
                              Blaming J/D for the fact that you hit something, is well..
                              As a company, why make a part out of steel that can be hammered back into shape, when you can make it out of plastic and when the yoyo hits something from "hold my beer and watch this" they get a new part sale?? or when the mower is x years old, they buy another as the cost of the replacement part makes it not worth it..
                              I buy stuff that lasts. If it doesn't than I'll never buy from insert name here company again. Simple as that.
                              I bought a MTD Yard Machines with a 42" deck and a bagger kit for $1500 back in 2006.



                              I've abused this lawn tractor for 10yrs, and aside from basic maintenance and minor repairs it's been solid.
                              I've driven over tree stumps, ran into stuff, ran bad gas through it, put holes in the tires and it's still going strong.
                              The majority of it is made out of steel, hood included. Parts are fairly cheap I ever need to repair/replace anything.
                              Would I buy another MTD Yard Machines? Probably..

                              My father in laws 1st 'used' John Deere tractor lasted 15yrs, and it still ran when my buddy bought it off of him for $100.
                              The new John Deere he bought in 2010 for close to $3000 is at least 50% plastic, mechanical parts included.
                              He's had mower deck, tranny, and charging issues with it.



                              Dad in law said if he knew new John Deeres were pieces of crap he would've never bought another one..

                              New hoods for John Deeres (Russell's included) are about $200-$600 depending on which portion of it you buy.
                              Russell ran his tractor into something, it happens. Hoods should be made out of materials durable enough to handle that.
                              Companies who want repeat business build products that last and don't fall apart so easily.

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