K&N inline fuel pump

[MadHatcher]

Wondering if the electric K&N inline fuel pump could be hooked up as a "primer " pump for re-filling the fuel bowls in my tri-power set up? When sitting for a week or more, I have to crank and crank the starter to re-fill the bowls before the engine will fire. Must be the ethanol based gas or something caused the fuel to drain out of the carbs bowl? I still want to keep the engine diaphram mounted fuel pump.

[JamesMayberryIII]

Wondering if the electric K&N inline fuel pump could be hooked up as a "primer " pump for re-filling the fuel bowls in my tri-power set up? When sitting for a week or more, I have to crank and crank the starter to re-fill the bowls before the engine will fire. Must be the ethanol based gas or something caused the fuel to drain out of the carbs bowl? I still want to keep the engine diaphram mounted fuel pump.

Why you want to keep the engine pump??
Having an inline pump pushing through the engine one.. that is designed to suck fuel, not having it pushed into it.. sounds like a bad idea.. like as in filling the oil pan with fuel bad idea.. and even then,, you'll have an inline pump that after it's started and you shut down the "prime" pump the engine pump had to try to suck fuel through that prime pump..

I'm sure the open vents on the carbs are helping todays fuel to go awol out of the bowls.. and a vent line to a charcoal can would most likely be a no go , as it might not look "right"

If the engine mounted pump is for "looks" maybe gut it.. and run the line through it and the inline electric with reg.. out of sight..

[anotheridiot]

You have to watch the pressure of the electric as well. I had a holly diaphram pump that put out 11 psi. Really, 11 and it needed a regulator because it shot past the needles and right out the overflow of the carb..

I am thinking you want the diaphram pump to keep the original look, so maybe removing guts and just plumbing it in without the push rod might keep the look with the electric pump.

But I really think you have some manifold temperature issues or maybe need a curly q in your fuel line to keep the level above the fuel level so it acts like a check valve.

[Loren]

I had a Holley carb that seemed to be dry of fuel every time I went to start the car...I didn't give it much thought but after a few months of that, the next trouble I had was rod knock. It turned out, fuel was draining from the carb into the intake and cylinders where it would seep past the rings while the car sat and end up in the oil pan then the fouled-up oil wound up killing the bearings of an engine that otherwise should-have had many more miles left on it. Just something to throw in the thought-mix here, before doing band-aids on the fuel system, maybe address the matter of why the float bowls (all, or one or two only?) drain in the first place, it doesn't seem to me like they should be evaporating out that quickly.

Otherwise, I kinda like the above idea of the fake pass-through diaphragm pump if the reason for it being retained is appearance only.

[quick 52]

I have a holley blue pushing through a mech holley pump when racing... Use the mech. pump when cruising... This setup as been on the truck for year's

[JamesMayberryIII]

I have a holley blue pushing through a mech holley pump when racing... Use the mech. pump when cruising... This setup as been on the truck for year's

No one is saying it won't can't work..
I can drink from a straw with my fingers closing it off also..
I've run a vehicle with a crushed fuel line before also..
both make parts work harder and not ideal..
pushing fuel into the engine mounted pump that is make to suck fuel is asking for the seals to leak fuel into the oil ..
Gets mighty costly when this happens and you find out to late..

[MadHatcher]

I'm using an Offy. fuel regulator set at 4 PSI. That's what the Rochester 2G's need. Any more and they flood. I rather not install the electric pump. I like to keep things simple, using the engine driven pump. I just hate it that I need to crank the starter over so much due to fuel evaporation from setting for only a few days. I just thought the K&N would help. I have used a small container with a spout to re-fill the bowl in the primary carb. That's a hassle too.

[anotheridiot]

You can also throw 24 volts at the starter to spin it faster then.

[MadHatcher]

"anotheridiot", I believe we're getting "off track" on the topic. I don't think adding more voltage will help as I was discussing fuel supply. I see why your Avatar wears the helmet. Dropped on the head too many times. Thanks quick 52. You're information is spot on.

[Exhaustfreak]

You can also throw 24 volts at the starter to spin it faster then.

If the electric has to get fuel past the manual pump to fill the bowls to begin with, how much advantage would the electric pump be? The manual pump can still only send so much fuel froward right?

[JamesMayberryIII]

I'm using an Offy. fuel regulator set at 4 PSI. That's what the Rochester 2G's need. Any more and they flood. I rather not install the electric pump. I like to keep things simple, using the engine driven pump. I just hate it that I need to crank the starter over so much due to fuel evaporation from setting for only a few days. I just thought the K&N would help. I have used a small container with a spout to re-fill the bowl in the primary carb. That's a hassle too.

If it is the fuel going out the center carb vent.. a pusher electric pump isn't going to magicly make the mechanical pump move more fuel through it.. The area of the diapham and lever/arm only pumps the same volume of fuel every "pump"
Maybe tie the center carb vent to your fuel tanks vent..
or a selniod on vac line connected to the vent that shuts the vent off(closes it) when engine is off.. and open while running..
this you could house in the air cleaner housing and no one would see it..

I'd think a charcoal can purge selnoid removed from the c/c can could be wired to do this..