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  • #16
    First question: describe the vibration. Is it a constant shake that varies with speed, is it a rhythmic vibration, or is it a vibration or shake that seems to go along with the engine rpms? The rhythmic vibrations are often driveline related, but not always... they can be impossible to track down. A tire shake is usually speed sensitive only, doesn't care what gear you are in or what rpm your engine is turning. Engine related vibrations are usually rpm related, not speed related.

    I imagine you've checked this, but a tire can be in balance and still be out of round. Out of round will still shake your car. Along the same lines, at the tire shop, have them look closely at the rims to be sure they aren't bent. A hourly paid tire tech could conceivably spin up the wheel/tire and bang on some weights until the machine says it's acceptable - but there can still be an issue. Also look at the treads as the tire spins to see if it wiggles side to side, often a tire fails internally and can cause weirdness.

    I've had rear drums that were so poorly manufactured that the braking surface was round, but due to core shift, the heavy cast outer section was out of true and out of round. Brake rotors shouldn't be as much of an issue, but they do (or should) get balanced at the factory, and can be an issue; the vents of the rotor can become inhabited by mud daubers or simply partially filled with dirt or mud.


    Shocks and springs shouldn't be the cause. If the wheel and brake is round and balanced, the shocks or springs are just along for the ride. Alignment and front suspension/ steering components usually don't cause a vibration either, only bad handling and expedited tire wear.

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    • #17
      Those looked fine. I was prepared to replace the idler arm but really no need. Took it down the road this morning and it is better. It is very minimal now so maybe changing the rest of the stuff out and inflating the tires to the right pressure and I'll have it licked. Did notice after my spring install that the driver side sits up 1/2 in higher than the passenger. Arrrrggghhh!!!!!!!! I pulled the driver side spring out and rotated it in the cup to where it is supposed to be but no change. The passenger side is seated in the same position as well. But, when I sit my fat ass in it the car levels out so I guess i won't worry about it.
      Visit my sons blog:
      www.driftundertheradar.com

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Damon23 View Post
        Those looked fine. I was prepared to replace the idler arm but really no need. Took it down the road this morning and it is better. It is very minimal now so maybe changing the rest of the stuff out and inflating the tires to the right pressure and I'll have it licked. Did notice after my spring install that the driver side sits up 1/2 in higher than the passenger. Arrrrggghhh!!!!!!!! I pulled the driver side spring out and rotated it in the cup to where it is supposed to be but no change. The passenger side is seated in the same position as well. But, when I sit my fat ass in it the car levels out so I guess i won't worry about it.

        I have yet to see a car sit exactly level after a spring change. You may see it settle after a few weeks and a few drives but I wouldn't bet on it.
        I assume you greased all the ball joints good and replaced everything worn. The tires being inflated a little high will help if one is flat spotted a little.
        Retirement is better than I thought!

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        • #19
          the 18's threw me off. I know the overall tire is probably about the same, just less sidewall, but its probably something to expect on an older car.

          Idler and pittman are what need to be changed. Center link is a big old hunk of forged steel with no moving parts, there should never be a need to replace that unless its bent from hitting a curb.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
            ... Center link is a big old hunk of forged steel with no moving parts ...
            I thought there was tierod like ends on them that could wear out

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            • #21
              Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
              I thought there was tierod like ends on them that could wear out
              I believe it depends on the car/truck. Damon's should look like this:

              Click image for larger version

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              Attached Files
              Chris - HRPT Long Haul 03, 04, 05, 13, 14, 15,16 & 18
              74 Nova Project
              66 Mustang GT Project

              92 Camaro RS Convertible Project
              79 Chevy Truck Project
              1956 Cadillac Project

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              • #22
                That is it Chris, I can see movement in the one joint that goes to the pitman arm. The pitman arm on this car is the hunk of metal that had no joints. Picked up new sway bar ends and bushings so all will be new up front this week.
                Visit my sons blog:
                www.driftundertheradar.com

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                • #23
                  Crusty. Someone has been in this front end. The control arm bushings are not factory and neither are the ball joints. But why not change the easy stuff while you are at it? Works for me though.
                  Last edited by Damon23; October 26, 2016, 03:31 AM.
                  Visit my sons blog:
                  www.driftundertheradar.com

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                  • #24
                    Back at it again. The transmission mount was collapsed and I took it up to have the tires checked and guess what? The tire I moved from the front to the back and I said the shake got a little better, was out of round. Had a flat spot in it. Tire guy said I may be able to over inflate it and drive around about 25 miles and see if it gets better. He put the 50 psi in it and I drove it around some and then home and it didn't get better. So, off to summit I went and got a tire. Good thing I had a $20 off $100 and some summit bucks. Going to have the tire put on tomorrow. I do have to say though, the car rides and handles very well now as long as I don't get to 60 mph. It was 55 mph before I moved the bad tire to the back.
                    Last edited by Damon23; October 30, 2016, 04:02 PM.
                    Visit my sons blog:
                    www.driftundertheradar.com

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                    • #25
                      In the search for vibrations, we change everything that is slightly worn... it may not fix the vibration, but at least when we're done, we feel good about all the "maintenance" we have done.

                      Just be sure to request better quality replacement parts than the cheap ones that they usually hand out at the parts stores if you don't specify. Otherwise, in a few years your new ones will be worse than the old (original) ones you replaced would have been.

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                      • #26
                        I hear you. The inner and outer tie rods and sleeves were ac delco and the center link is moog. It does however ride really nice now. Way less sloppy than before.
                        Visit my sons blog:
                        www.driftundertheradar.com

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                        • #27
                          Congrats on figuring it out. I had a simular problem that went away and came back over a couple year period of time . Went away after changing the tires . Then it came back after about 9 months . Turned out I had one caliper in a panic stop wouldn't work as well as the other . Over a period of time it would add up enough that I'd get a vibration because the tire would get out of round . It took replacing the calipers and hoses twice to get this to get fixed . That's what those cheapy Autozone parts will do to you sooner or later .
                          Previously HoosierL98GTA

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                          • #28
                            Not 100% out of the woods yet. Got it out today and ran it up to 65-70 and I feel a similar vibration but not as bad. Got it home, jacked it up and spun the fronts and I can see a small dip in another one. I pulled the rest off and taking them up to the shop in the morning to have them tested.
                            Visit my sons blog:
                            www.driftundertheradar.com

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                            • #29
                              If you are in Georgia and ever have a vibration issue with your car call up the boys at Weaver Brake & Tire in Marietta, GA. They indexed, trued and road force balanced the tires on the car and man alive is it awesome now. Saved some cash to. It was $36.50 a wheel cause I have custom wheels.
                              Visit my sons blog:
                              www.driftundertheradar.com

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