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'97 Ram transmission issues, 46re. Torque Converter locking at low speeds in D and R.

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  • '97 Ram transmission issues, 46re. Torque Converter locking at low speeds in D and R.

    As I was just thinking a few weeks ago that I've been spending way too much time and money on house stuff and I need to get back to car stuff, my truck must have read my mind and given me a reason to work on cars again. The truck's a '97 Ram 1500 with the 46RE, 180k, it's thrown all kinds of codes, probably every transmission code available at different times (after I delete on another one or three pop up). I've spent a lot of time on google trying to diagnose it, but I'm not really sure I've narrowed it down any.

    What's happening is the torque converter's locking up at really low speeds in drive and reverse. I don't have far to drive to work so I've been getting by with using 1 and 2 before shifting to drive, but lately in 2nd the engine's been stumbling, though somewhat different than it does in D with the converter locked. It may be unrelated, but I think it's just the somewhat higher RPMs while in 2nd making it seem different (though the converter's not supposed to lock in 2nd, so I don't know). When I back out of my spot in the morning to go to work, it's fine for maybe a minute before the upshift and lockup happens, but after work backing out of my spot in R it's immediate and usually stalls. Today on my way home I let it idle down the road at 30 at 800RPM, not sure if 3rd or OD but the converter was locked. It's pretty intermittent, sometimes it's immediate, sometimes it takes a minute or two, but it happens every time. I've tried unplugging the O2 sensors, the lockup relay, resetting the codes, checked fluid level, nothing has worked yet. I'm going to do a fluid and filter change early next week, but I'm not hopeful that I'll find anything or it'll fix it. I didn't want to just throw parts at it, but after the fluid/filter change I'm ready to. The question is, which parts? I don't know if the converter is bad, or the lockup switch, or the valve body's cracked letting too much pressure through, I've seen the code for solenoids, governor pressure switches, etc, but don't think those are actually bad. Any insight or what to do after the fluid change inevitably fails, or what it could be is appreciated.

  • #2
    Did you get a code for a bad output speed sensor?

    Try this site:
    Last edited by Runner1972; August 5, 2016, 07:58 AM.
    "I live for myself and I answer to nobody."

    -Steve McQueen

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    • #3
      Thanks, but no I didn't. Also, I don't ever hit 38 on my commute, it's a 25 mph road. The codes I did get are P1762, P1763, P1765, P0753, P0743, and maybe another one or two others I don't remember. The P1762 and P1763 happened before I started messing around with unplugging stuff. Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow to change the fluid and filter, probably disconnect the battery while I'm at it.

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      • #4
        Got it changed last night, pictures coming. Fluid was much darker than it looked on the dipstick, and lots of "stuff" in the pan. Looked like a jar of antisieze was dumped in, and lots of stuff on the magnet. After an initial stall or two cycling through the gears adding fluid, it's working ok now. I don't want to prematurely say it's good, especially with the gunk in the pan, but it's definitely better than it's been the past few weeks. Hoping it's not as bad as I originally thought.

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        • #5
          We had metal completely clogging the screens in the valve body to the solenoids, I mean real fine metal sand, did not let the fluid flow. I would pull the solenoids and check the screens whenever we drop a pan now.

          As far as the multiple codes, most professionals will go thru all the grounds for the computer when that happens.

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          • #6
            On the way home from work, nope, not fixed. I don't know why a fluid change would have seemingly helped if it was electrical, but oh well. Maybe it's blocked up again. I'll try taking the battery off to reset the computer, but I checked the codes again today (didn't erase them yesterday) and I had an extra one for an O2 sensor. I've read that they're on the same circuit, so maybe that's it. I kind of suspected it's electrical from the intermittentness of it, but don't really know where to start with electrical. I pulled the relay, the O2 sensors, the plug on the side of the trans, and it still did it.

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            • #7
              This sounds like the internal pressure governor is bad:

              If this video helped you and you feel like you want to donate, please click or copy/paste this link:https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hoste...
              "I live for myself and I answer to nobody."

              -Steve McQueen

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              • #8
                Originally posted by moparmaniac07 View Post
                On the way home from work, nope, not fixed. I don't know why a fluid change would have seemingly helped if it was electrical, but oh well. Maybe it's blocked up again. I'll try taking the battery off to reset the computer, but I checked the codes again today (didn't erase them yesterday) and I had an extra one for an O2 sensor. I've read that they're on the same circuit, so maybe that's it. I kind of suspected it's electrical from the intermittentness of it, but don't really know where to start with electrical. I pulled the relay, the O2 sensors, the plug on the side of the trans, and it still did it.
                Thats what I mean by checking every ground from the computer. Thats taking the rusted screw out, grinding the firewall, putting a new screw thru the hole, or make a new hole, also changing the terminal end if its all corroded.

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                • #9
                  Unhooked the battery cables for 10 minutes late last week, seemed to make it worse when I started it back up. Lately though, it's been better, maybe the fluid change flushed some crap off of something. I won't have time to touch it for a few weeks, but there's no check engine light and I can get most of the way to work/home without it locking up. Sometimes it even downshifts again when I slow back down. Now that I say it's getting better, it'll go right back to acting up again tomorrow.

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                  • #10
                    Click image for larger version

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                    I don't think it should be that fuzzy

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                    And in case anyone was wondering what it should have looked like:
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by moparmaniac07; August 18, 2016, 05:52 PM.

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                    • #11
                      yeah, that first picture is what we got out of the screens at the solenoid valves. The whole thing with the check engine light is the power is going to the solenoid, the solenoid is opening (or closing depending how you view the circuit), it just does not know the fluid is not going where it is supposed to , that is being assumed.
                      Last edited by anotheridiot; August 19, 2016, 06:06 AM.

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                      • #12
                        In my opinion, I believe the direct drum is burned up on it. It runs on the Torque converter shaft and sounds like it is leaking. There is a band thats rides on that same drum and sounds like there is not even to grab on to, to help grab. I think that is band fibers in your pan. The stuff on the magnet is friction fibers im guessing from the direct drum. A 97 has 2 goveners, a sensor and a pressure switch. Im guessing it would help short time, long run you are looking at a rebuild.

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                        • #13
                          Most of those direct drums are 3 clutch. I cut them into 4 clutches at work. It seems to really help. Jasper buys all we can get.

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                          • #14
                            Well, after 2 weeks of working fine, I got lockup under 30 mph again. It's definitely better since the fluid change, only happened 2 or 3 times since, but oh well. I'm moving next weekend, so hopefully it'll handle the hundred mile trip at least once and I can fix it where I actually have access to a garage.

                            Troy,
                            If it's the clutches like you think it is, does that mean a new converter? Or is it something that a rebuild kit would fix. I'm not trying to cheap out, just kinda interested in rebuilding the transmission myself to see how it works. If it's not though, I don't really want to touch it.

                            Edit: Just looked up an exploded diagram, not the converter, and rebuild kits look like they have something similar to clutches. Also, maybe it is a little bit to cheap out, it's a 20 year old truck.
                            Last edited by moparmaniac07; August 25, 2016, 06:28 PM.

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                            • #15
                              They are actually one of the easier rebuilds. Yes, a new converter would be necessary. They are only 90.00. Master kits with steels, frictions, and sealing rings im thinking are around 140.00. The band that im thinking is burned up is 13.99. If you think you can handle it, i dont think you would have over 600.00 in it. Im not trying to pitch a sale, just telling you wat the parts go for at my company. I see enough of wat goes bad in any trans to know wat goes bad lol.

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