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355 vortec with edlebrock eps,carb,comp xr270hr cam,1.6 rocker.Engine didn't smoke for first 2k miles then started puffing gray smoke after ya Rev it up..Made builder rebuild it,he found nothing g wrong (so he said)..Actually said I installed intake gasket wrong..Got the engine back and he used grey silicone around the ports!Anyway,it's been 1500 mi and it's smoking again!!I did a leak down test and only had 8%leakage,rings are good..The smoking gets better if I drive it on longer trips,around town it smokes worse,again,only when ya Rev it like it's sucking oil from somewhere.I've checked everything,no pvc,trans line is dry,brake booster line is dry..The heads are new aftermarket ITM vortecs..So far I'm up to about 4500$ messing with this guy,he has offered to look at it but he's 3 hrs away and everytime he just has excuses..I'm tired of messing with him..Any advice would be great..
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I dont know, if he used gray silicone around the ports it sounds like the intake and head are not matching up well, with no PVC excess pressure could just be breaking thru into the intake port when the silicone fags out. Do you have any vents in the valve covers? -
Yes ,that's one thing that really pissed me off is that when I got it back the last time he put dirt car valve covers on it..Dual breather design..Another part of the story is,after he rebuilt it at 2k miles,I drove it for about 1k miless and it broke a screw in stud..So he replaced it then installed stud girdles which required taller valve covers..The dual breathers are on 1 cover,none on the other..Comment
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But it smoked like this with a pvc system also.Comment
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I'd target pcv. Even a good engine shows nothing, it relieves it in gentle oil-less puffs.
the grey silicone, I have used it to hold boxer engine block halves together. Hopefully, he used the good stuff.
Find any diagram from a gm carb engine, should get it.
Another thing to find is if you have a block off plate at the old fuel pump. See if it is at least mating flat if that is the route you went.
breaking rocker studs, maybe the valve seals/guides are flopping around... was it a good builder?
Previously boxer3main
the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.Comment
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He was highly recommended and he does a lot of dirt car engines in south texas,also build off shore boat engines..My bro n law and nephew both use him for their dirt cars..They have never blown one,one engine has 5 seasons on it in a modified,not one problem..The heads are suspect to me,they are ITM brand vortecs made in australia ,I can't find anything on them at all (online)..Comment
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The only ITM I know of is an auto parts distributor based in Carson California. http://www.itmengine.com/homeOriginally posted by Lit549 View Post
They sell aluminium and cast iron Vortec replacement heads.
I searched for a 96 Tahoe which came with the desirable 062 and 906 Vortec heads.
From what I gather the 60-5000HP is the 'performance' replacement head.
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Sucking oil out of the lifter valley, down the intake ports is very common on small block Chevys. It is very easy to see in the intake ports of the heads. There will be an oily film on the intake port floors. Also, since these heads have screw in studs, see if the intake rocker studs go into the intake ports. If so, they could be leaking and causing oil burning. That is a simple fix using teflon based thread sealer, NOT thread locker.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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This is the same engine as the noisy cam thread? If so Scotts idea about the screw in studs is sounding right to me if its not leaking from the intake. I know we had this trouble trying to run a oddball crower injection on a set of double hump heads, the injection was milled and lost track of the heads Running the lifters that tight I would think the lifters are dead. Really never heard of someone bottoming out the lifter to set lash unless its bottom it out and then remove 1 and a half turns. Makes me wonder how much oil is hanging in the valley if none of it is getting pushed up to the rockers.Comment
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I've mentioned that to him about the studs..I wonder which ones to go into the intake ports?Or how many ..Well,I think I'm gonna check which studs do and pull them and reseal..I've used a bore scope on my phone and tried to see if intake gasket is leaking from valley and I can't tell..I know I had hell installing the intake gasket,I thought I was good at it,till this engine!!lol,Another thing that I've noticed is that the smoking gets better after I've driven it for 30-40 miles,you have to really look for it,it is barely noticeable..But running around town I can Rev it and it is very noticeable..Idk but it's driving me nuts!I thought former that the rings weren't seated but that can't be right because both times he built it,it didn't smoke till around 1500-2000 miles..Comment
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Valve stem seals they may of used Teflon they tear during installation very easyOriginally posted by Lit549 View Post
Drag week 2009 Quickest street rod
Drag week 2010 Quickest street rodComment
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my guess would be either the studs leaking through threads
or valve seals...Comment
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Looking at the video, I am also wondering what type of piston rings your builder used, and what kind of oil you are using. Moly rings will not seat if you use synthetics from new.
BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Standard tension rings and I've used conventional oil,no synthetics..I also used break in oil for break in..Comment
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