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  • #16
    Got to thinking last night, are you sure its the pan and not the dipstick tube? They are prone to start leaking, then run down the pan rail

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    • #17
      yeah, definitely not the dipstick, actually went all the way when we reinstalled the trans. No, the pan was mangled and dimpled from over torquing. I think I will take off the lockwashers, put my little milwaukee driver on 2 and go around, then one click at a time to get to its 14 limit before torquing.Maybe this time it will hold. I filed out a little valley in the aluminum pan or the pee hole from the servo so hopefully it drains.

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      • #18
        Rebuilt a forward drum the other night and took some pictures for you guys of the process.

        I cut a hole in my table for the input shaft to slide through. Inside the drum rides an o-ring that will need replaced. Make sure you put enough lube on it the pistons slide over it easy.
        Click image for larger version

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        First piston you put in is the 3-4. 700r4's were alluminum and 4l60e's were steel. Make sure you replace the inner and outer seal with the lip facing down.
        Click image for larger version

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        Next is the apply ring that engages the 3-4 clutch pack that sets on top of the drum. When you use a Zpak set up, you need the apply ring with the #7 stamped on it.
        Click image for larger version

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        Next is the spring retainer that I am using from a 4l60e.
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        This metal piston is the forward clutch housing
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        The next 2 pistons are out of late model 4l60e's. There metal and molded rubber. The original alluminum under heavy horsepower can crack. These are the forward and overun pistons. the last picture is what the original look like.
        Click image for larger version

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        Next is the forward spring retainer out of a 4l60e
        Click image for larger version

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        Compress the pistons and put your snap ring on. Around the input shaft there is feed holes. Air check each to make sure the piston applys as it should.
        Click image for larger version

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        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Originally posted by chevybuytroy View Post
          Got to thinking last night, are you sure its the pan and not the dipstick tube? They are prone to start leaking, then run down the pan rail
          Ended up being the TV cable. The O ring kept getting torn on the hook going in. So much more time wasted. Anyone has a pan leak on the 700R4, drop the trans so you can see everything.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

            Ended up being the TV cable. The O ring kept getting torn on the hook going in. So much more time wasted. Anyone has a pan leak on the 700R4, drop the trans so you can see everything.

            At least you found the problem and solved it.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by chevybuytroy View Post


              At least you found the problem and solved it.

              Its only been one day lol. Give it time to make me a new puddle.

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              • #22
                not dripping any fluid for a while now, starting to mess with the Governer. Shifts were close together no matter how loose or tight we made the TV cable. Got a recalibration kit from B&M and a rebuilt Governer from AC DElco. Ended up the Governer that was in this thing was huge, big weights, big slots cut in the weights. Did not mess with recalibration, just put the rebuild governer in and its fine if you are light on the pedal. Get on it and shift points are haywire.

                Really getting tired of this thing. We got the 4L80E out of the van that needs a pump, just wondering if we get the computer to run that thing and eliminate this TV cable.

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                • #23
                  Somebody's gonna have to FB Troy as his email account went away with thr new job...
                  Troy! Where are you???

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                  • #24
                    I was looking for the controller for the 4l80E and saw this, http://www.hgmelectronics.com/produc...rollers/csm-gm maybe its a step I missed along the way. We just ran the wires for the lockup solenoid for overdrive, seems like maybe its not being used properly. Anyone have experience with this deal?

                    well apparently, its just a computerized unit that is utilizing a TPS instead of the vacuum the engine is running at to allow 4th gear lockup.
                    Last edited by anotheridiot; July 28, 2016, 09:03 AM.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                      not dripping any fluid for a while now, starting to mess with the Governer. Shifts were close together no matter how loose or tight we made the TV cable. Got a recalibration kit from B&M and a rebuilt Governer from AC DElco. Ended up the Governer that was in this thing was huge, big weights, big slots cut in the weights. Did not mess with recalibration, just put the rebuild governer in and its fine if you are light on the pedal. Get on it and shift points are haywire.

                      Really getting tired of this thing. We got the 4L80E out of the van that needs a pump, just wondering if we get the computer to run that thing and eliminate this TV cable.

                      Those goveners come with different weight sizes, We call them stock, HP, or police edition. The weights give is higher shift points. Goveners are very sensitive. As for the 4l80e, we have all parts for those. If I was gonna build one for a street rod I would change the planet set to a straight cut instead of angle cut. Alot stronger but are noisier. All 4l80e's are electronic. 91-96, 97-03, 04 and up are the years.

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