Pioneer Radio wiring question

[yellomalibu]

The radio in the C10 is an old style cassette player with two knobs - which is very low on power, not very good on tuning, and sometimes I have to wiggle the knobs to get the sound to come back.

I was given a Pioneer DEH-2200UB. Free. It works - I was riding in the truck it came out of just last week - but it has no wiring instructions on the unit like they used to back in the day.

Tried to google the wiring for it, but am not completely sure I got it right.

I found a good listing for the DEH-1300 MP DEH and another that just generally lists the "DEH" series... so, would the following pic (for the 1300) also work for the 2200 I have?

[yellomalibu]

What does this mean? Built-in Speaker Power	MOSFET 50W x 4
Continuous Power Output	22W x 4

[yellomalibu]

Built-in speaker vs continuous power output?

The 22 watts per channel ought to be fine for the cab of a truck... but why the two listings? Which one is the power that comes from the gray and white wires that wire directly to the speakers?

[Beagle]

the 50w Mosfet is a "max" rating of what the chips can provide in theory. The 22w X 4 is a generous number provided by most manufactures as well, but basically means it can provide 22w into 4 speakers continuously. A more realistic number is probably 11w x 4 channels (front, rear, left, right) before it starts distorting. 11 *Real* watts is pretty loud. 1 watt is actually pretty loud. Car stereo marketing guys are the worst when it comes to quoting "MAX" or "Peak" numbers.

The "built in speaker" output means what the internal amp can do. It's got preamp outputs as well for an external amplifier if you wanted to hook one of those up. A lot of folks use the internal amplifier for the front speakers and then a separate amplifier to drive larger back speakers and/or subwoofer. If you like a lot of bass, that's the way to go. A lot of folks are just fine with just the internal amplifier driving two or four speakers. A lot of us aren't interested in buying enough amplifier and bass cabinets to be louder than the long tube headers...

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...Manual0724.pdf

That's the manual for it straight from Pioneer. The wiring diagram is at the bottom of the PDF. Lemme know if you have a problem getting it?

Oh yeah, MOSFET is a buzzword for the transistor type. .. Squirrel or his brother David can probably give much better descriptions than I can. I have a thin but dangerous grasp of this junk. It gets a lot harrier than my short attention span can handle pretty quickly.

[yellomalibu]

the 50w Mosfet is a "max" rating of what the chips can provide in theory. The 22w X 4 is a generous number provided by most manufactures as well, but basically means it can provide 22w into 4 speakers continuously. A more realistic number is probably 11w x 4 channels (front, rear, left, right) before it starts distorting. 11 *Real* watts is pretty loud. 1 watt is actually pretty loud. Car stereo marketing guys are the worst when it comes to quoting "MAX" or "Peak" numbers.

The "built in speaker" output means what the internal amp can do. It's got preamp outputs as well for an external amplifier if you wanted to hook one of those up. A lot of folks use the internal amplifier for the front speakers and then a separate amplifier to drive larger back speakers and/or subwoofer. If you like a lot of bass, that's the way to go. A lot of folks are just fine with just the internal amplifier driving two or four speakers. A lot of us aren't interested in buying enough amplifier and bass cabinets to be louder than the long tube headers...

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...Manual0724.pdf

That's the manual for it straight from Pioneer. The wiring diagram is at the bottom of the PDF. Lemme know if you have a problem getting it?

Oh yeah, MOSFET is a buzzword for the transistor type. .. Squirrel or his brother David can probably give much better descriptions than I can. I have a thin but dangerous grasp of this junk. It gets a lot harrier than my short attention span can handle pretty quickly.

Sweet.

Thanks for the PDF. I tried to click on a link (when I was googling earlier) that was supposed to take me to the PDF, and my Avast went DING DING DING, Threat has been detected! So I gave up. But the proper set of instructions for this unit verifies that they used the same color codes on most of their units.

I know that amplifiers are often (usually?) mosfet transistors from my electronic schooling back a lifetime ago. I just didn't know they listed the two power ratings separately like they did. They used to list peak power and/or rms power, but I'd never seen "built in speaker" vs "22w x 4"... that was my confusion.

I only have 2 6.5" door speakers, so the 22 watts per channel should be PLENTY to sound good enough - fuller sound than my crappy old radio.

Awesome. Now I just need the time and motivation to crawl under the dash and cut up the original unmolested metal and plastic... muwahaahaahaa

[squirrel]

Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.

The power ratings are usually meaningless marketing drivel.

from the pdf file:

[yellomalibu]

Yep. Thanks, Jim.
I was able to open Beagle's link and find that - my wording may have been misleading; it was earlier when I was looking (before posting here) that I had the issue with the link Avast didn't like.

I appreciate the time you guys put into this for me. Minutes, but still your time. Thank you.

[squirrel]

No problem!

[Eliteman76]

If you were closer I would give you a hand working up...but I'm just a *few* miles away.
I prefer a few watts in the Torino...



Its not that I need it at SpinalTap volume 11...I just like it very crisp and clean.
Besides some days one needs to just crank a little ZZ top nice and loud...

[yellomalibu]

Once upon a time, back in the early nineties, I had a Diawa 25x25 watt radio in my Nissan pickup truck. It provided PLENTY of power to the two 6.5" door speakers. Of course, being in my late teens/ early twenties, I wanted more, so I bought a pair of 10" Pyle Driver II subs, a 35 watt per channel amp for the door speakers and a 70 watt per channel amp for the subs. It was plenty loud and clear in the small cab of that truck... with enough bass to blur my vision. I made the speaker box as tall and thin as possible (for leg room) and left a channel in the center of the box to mount both amps and the power distribution block, then connected the two "boxes" with a piece of pvc pipe so they could share the air space - they weren't open air subs, which is why I didn't simply port the boxes.
...and then someone stole the system out of the truck. They left me the head unit, the two door speakers, a gash in my headliner, and a dent in my roof. That was the last "system" I put in a vehicle. It's too easy for someone to steal what I worked hard to pay for.

[anotheridiot]

all I know about radio is if your battery keeps discharging overnight then you have the wrong positives going to the key and the always power on. Most have a signal wire that sends a pulse to the amp to let it know the radio is on, that also cannot be always power on. Its just the memory and clock that dont drain the battery.

[yellomalibu]

all I know about radio is if your battery keeps discharging overnight then you have the wrong positives going to the key and the always power on. Most have a signal wire that sends a pulse to the amp to let it know the radio is on, that also cannot be always power on. Its just the memory and clock that dont drain the battery.

Good to know some things haven't changed over the years. According to the wiring diagram, the Yellow wire is the one you hook up to constant 12 volts (for memory and clock), while the Red wire is the one you hook up to Key-On or Accessory-On.

[Scott Liggett]

If you were closer I would give you a hand working up...but I'm just a *few* miles away.
I prefer a few watts in the Torino...



Its not that I need it at SpinalTap volume 11...I just like it very crisp and clean.
Besides some days one needs to just crank a little ZZ top nice and loud...

Why do you have such a loud stereo? Because my car is loud, dummy. Duh!!

[yellomalibu]

Once upon a time, back in the early nineties, I had a Diawa 25x25 watt radio in my Nissan pickup truck. It provided PLENTY of power to the two 6.5" door speakers. Of course, being in my late teens/ early twenties, I wanted more, so I bought a pair of 10" Pyle Driver II subs, a 35 watt per channel amp for the door speakers and a 70 watt per channel amp for the subs. It was plenty loud and clear in the small cab of that truck... with enough bass to blur my vision. I made the speaker box as tall and thin as possible (for leg room) and left a channel in the center of the box to mount both amps and the power distribution block, then connected the two "boxes" with a piece of pvc pipe so they could share the air space - they weren't open air subs, which is why I didn't simply port the boxes.
...and then someone stole the system out of the truck. They left me the head unit, the two door speakers, a gash in my headliner, and a dent in my roof. That was the last "system" I put in a vehicle. It's too easy for someone to steal what I worked hard to pay for.

I scanned the only surviving photo of the above mentioned "system" from my Nissan. This is a test to see if I can, indeed, post a pic from my computer that isn't already hosted elsewhere.

*edit* I meant that I had an Aiwa stereo. Diawa is a fishing reel. herpaderp.