april 22 burn in attempt
rejecting rich, but continuing to idle. no charge to sustain.
No overheat. No dash clock, tach, electric engine fan..no explanation.
Valves getting very quiet passenger head.
about 2 hours in now, generator and battery charger running. Only a flutter of tease on the alt gauge.
Thumpy little engine.
The chambers to spotless is the cuprit. Needs a 10 to 1 carbon layer, and the valves are clean too.
The heads and intake is coming from a 7.6 to 1 turbo, lucky to see a 150psi cylinder at full boost...and those exhaust valves they used. Hardly any flow. Fat head valves. Must have been a boost gauge tricker..make one think they are going big...because turbos are scary to the japanese subaru once past 7 psi.
The valves in it now, I'd call medium. 1987 had a very thin faced carb valve, flowed the most, and the loyale is inbetween turbo and the skinny one. I am using the loyale version. Good flow, and strong. Those are paired with the best lifters known for this engine, stay quiet, a little like variable valves.,,and the most lift at the upper end (past 2800)
I am not only avoiding subarus after this, I do not want aluminum anything.
A pile of vortec out the window.
I'll relax in a few years, maybe, to change my mind.
alternators from a monkeys butt never do good. I guess I'd do american aluminum engines. Alternators have been good here for 50 years.
Going to let it run until generator runs out of gas, seems a .25 gallon left in the 63cc tank.
The rich smell is good news. It won't be long now.
swapped alternator back to the 128 amp nissan, that is the one I just had tested. Same low ripple as new, etc. It only looks like the one I just bought. This one bottoms out at 9 volt, gets quite warm to send it. Does not give up. I think that was the original hatred on the nissan flunkers. They simply stopped sending anything, due to the loop. No leader. all quitters. Reminds me of kamikaze.
I think the word "phasing" comes to mind for this 85-87 engine. Subaru did not start firing all four until the loyale. Don't tell seattle, they get confused. The right bank needs to be lit on an accurate 4 stroke for some time. I went though this once already, but it was way too late for the head I chose back when. This one is a baby, just like it has never been used. I first learned phasing on a kc135e. Memory stuck in circuits and metals. Some machines go to the junk yard because of this subject. Its like a dam in the flowing of electricity. Very rare occurrence. Why subarus did this out of the box is a mystery only a tiny mind hardly flowing would understand.
Took battery back in to recharge full, see if it cycles back down to 9 volt tomorrow, self sustaining, or whenever I get to it.
Come to think of it, the mechanic that caught me cussing at this subaru told me to just let it run, see where it bottoms. That must be 5 years or more ago. I went through 3 of the 50 amp subaru original. The nissan with the updated ts16949 standard is a good one. The old nissan 90 amp can work, but there is no leader, no take charge (pun). He knew the alternator was charging without checking anything. Just put your hand on the stator to check for heat. Subaru is not the only weirdo ricer out there.
let it idle, give a shot of higher oil pressure once and awhile (that means throttle, for usmb members that might be reading).
rejecting rich, but continuing to idle. no charge to sustain.
No overheat. No dash clock, tach, electric engine fan..no explanation.
Valves getting very quiet passenger head.
about 2 hours in now, generator and battery charger running. Only a flutter of tease on the alt gauge.
Thumpy little engine.
The chambers to spotless is the cuprit. Needs a 10 to 1 carbon layer, and the valves are clean too.
The heads and intake is coming from a 7.6 to 1 turbo, lucky to see a 150psi cylinder at full boost...and those exhaust valves they used. Hardly any flow. Fat head valves. Must have been a boost gauge tricker..make one think they are going big...because turbos are scary to the japanese subaru once past 7 psi.
The valves in it now, I'd call medium. 1987 had a very thin faced carb valve, flowed the most, and the loyale is inbetween turbo and the skinny one. I am using the loyale version. Good flow, and strong. Those are paired with the best lifters known for this engine, stay quiet, a little like variable valves.,,and the most lift at the upper end (past 2800)
I am not only avoiding subarus after this, I do not want aluminum anything.
A pile of vortec out the window.
I'll relax in a few years, maybe, to change my mind.
alternators from a monkeys butt never do good. I guess I'd do american aluminum engines. Alternators have been good here for 50 years.
Going to let it run until generator runs out of gas, seems a .25 gallon left in the 63cc tank.
The rich smell is good news. It won't be long now.
swapped alternator back to the 128 amp nissan, that is the one I just had tested. Same low ripple as new, etc. It only looks like the one I just bought. This one bottoms out at 9 volt, gets quite warm to send it. Does not give up. I think that was the original hatred on the nissan flunkers. They simply stopped sending anything, due to the loop. No leader. all quitters. Reminds me of kamikaze.
I think the word "phasing" comes to mind for this 85-87 engine. Subaru did not start firing all four until the loyale. Don't tell seattle, they get confused. The right bank needs to be lit on an accurate 4 stroke for some time. I went though this once already, but it was way too late for the head I chose back when. This one is a baby, just like it has never been used. I first learned phasing on a kc135e. Memory stuck in circuits and metals. Some machines go to the junk yard because of this subject. Its like a dam in the flowing of electricity. Very rare occurrence. Why subarus did this out of the box is a mystery only a tiny mind hardly flowing would understand.
Took battery back in to recharge full, see if it cycles back down to 9 volt tomorrow, self sustaining, or whenever I get to it.
Come to think of it, the mechanic that caught me cussing at this subaru told me to just let it run, see where it bottoms. That must be 5 years or more ago. I went through 3 of the 50 amp subaru original. The nissan with the updated ts16949 standard is a good one. The old nissan 90 amp can work, but there is no leader, no take charge (pun). He knew the alternator was charging without checking anything. Just put your hand on the stator to check for heat. Subaru is not the only weirdo ricer out there.
let it idle, give a shot of higher oil pressure once and awhile (that means throttle, for usmb members that might be reading).
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