Originally posted by milner351
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62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?
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Milner this was the top on my Torino rusted and pitted I tried everything shy of sand blasting to get it off nothing worked.
Until I tried Rust Remover Gel from Advanced Auto Parts and 180 grit sandpaper put the gel on let it set and before you take it off take the sandpaper and sand it and it will come off it may take a second coat.
This is what the top looks like now and this is still in bare metal.
If you try this method I hope it works for you. Good Luck!Greg & Mendy Dayton, Ohio 2007LH 2008LH 2010LH 2011LH 2012 1st 2 stops 2013LH 2015 1st 2 stops2016LH 2017 first and last stops . 2018 LH ("It's better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool!! Harley Davidson!")
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Cool - thanks Greg!
I have some similar product but I don't think it's gel, it's more of a liquid. Your results look amazing!
According to Fedex tracking the miller180 is in perrysburg OH, should have it tomorrow!There's always something new to learn.
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Maybe time to get new filters for my good mask. I've been using a regular dust mask when sanding off the paint.
The 180 should be delivered today, yaho! Now to get the time to use it!There's always something new to learn.
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Well, I tried some rust killer stuff I had around, it's not the gell so I used shop rags as a poultice to keep the worst areas covered. I slathered it all over most of the hood as there are slight pits here and there. It does seem to be changing the color of the rust, but it works pretty slowly - I think it's just some phosphoric acid, probably not very strong. We'll see how it looks after sitting for 24 hours.
The Miller180 has a different plug than the 220 plugs I'm set up for in the shop so a trip to the store and some electrical box building is required - I'm going to set up a two receptacle box with a plug for the welder and a 110 plug for the plasma cutter - leaving another 110 plug open for grinders, etc. Then run a dryer cord from that out to the 220 plug I already have in the shop - and already built a long heavy extension cord for. Always something.
I swapped the Lincoln sp200 back to .030 wire to weld up a 1/4" plate bracket for a friends tractor mower deck - and it's still not acting right even with the heavier wire - my brother in law is going to have to deal with some wire feeder issues to get the machine back up to 100% - but for what he's paying me for it and the capability of the machine for his use - it's still a great deal for him.
There's always something new to learn.
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That is one very FINE looking welder...I'll bet you could make a living with that puppy. Interested to hear how the de-rusting treatment goes -- certainly looks good so far. After the comments on the Cyclone thread about the side effects of naval jelly I'm thinking something a little less potent might be prudent.Michael from Hampton Roads
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That's a good looking welder Milner I have a Miller SD180 stick and tig machine that I need to buy me a mig spool slinger for to have a all in one machine. Miller makes a real good welder,but then again so does Lincoln. Good Luck with it.Greg & Mendy Dayton, Ohio 2007LH 2008LH 2010LH 2011LH 2012 1st 2 stops 2013LH 2015 1st 2 stops2016LH 2017 first and last stops . 2018 LH ("It's better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool!! Harley Davidson!")
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Got the new welder hooked up and working, it makes me a better weldor, this welder is much better suited to the sheetmetal work than the big lincoln.
Greg - I have a synchrowave200 Tig - I was considering getting a spool gun for it - but there are lots of situations on a car where I don't think a spool gun would fit.
I only had a few hours Sunday afternoon at the shop.
Core support is fully welded in.
Passenger Strut rod bracket straightened and welded to core support - Driver side is going to take more work to get straight / moved before welding.
Driver's side 1x2 sub frame tube fully welded in on the inside through the floor - this is where the new miller really shined - it put down some great looking welds.... no spitting no spatter.
Hood has been ground again - and second application of de-ruster put on - the liquid doesn't work as well for the deep pits as the stuff Greg used - I have to pick some of that up soon.
Last edited by milner351; March 26, 2012, 09:11 AM.There's always something new to learn.
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Originally posted by milner351 View PostGot the new welder hooked up and working, it makes me a better weldor, this welder is much better suited to the sheetmetal work than the big lincoln.
Greg - I have a synchrowave200 Tig - I was considering getting a spool gun for it - but there are lots of situations on a car where I don't think a spool gun would fit.
I only had a few hours Sunday afternoon at the shop.
Core support is fully welded in.
Passenger Strut rod bracket straightened and welded to core support - Driver side is going to take more work to get straight / moved before welding.
Driver's side 1x2 sub frame tube fully welded in on the inside through the floor - this is where the new miller really shined - it put down some great looking welds.... no spitting no spatter.
Hood has been ground again - and second application of de-ruster put on - the liquid doesn't work as well for the deep pits as the stuff Greg used - I have to pick some of that up soon.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]10013[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]10012[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]10011[/ATTACH]Greg & Mendy Dayton, Ohio 2007LH 2008LH 2010LH 2011LH 2012 1st 2 stops 2013LH 2015 1st 2 stops2016LH 2017 first and last stops . 2018 LH ("It's better to be dead and cool than alive and uncool!! Harley Davidson!")
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