that line looked pretty bad, tho not nearly as bad as the fuel line on my chevy. it was leaking pretty bady, where it goes over the passenger side suspension, someone thought JB weld would fix it, cuz thats what the line was coated with. well, needless to say the line was so corroded it crumbled into 3 pieces in my hands
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Scott's 1967 GMC 1500 pickup
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Weird. Lost the clutch adjustment today. Nearly to the point that I could barely shift the truck. I could feel the pedal hitting the floor and the clutch not quite fully engaging. Stopped at the mall parking lot and checked the linkage. Nothing looked out of place or loose. There is plenty of adjustment left, so I will try that tomorrow.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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I had something similar happen a long time ago with a VW. The clutch was starting to slip a little. I had just picked up a clutch kit on a Friday while driving home over the weekend. On the way home, the clutch would not disengage. I had to shift without the clutch. Red lights, I'd slip it into neutral and shut the engine off and slip it back into 1st, then hit the key to crank it back up and start off. When I got the clutch out I found the flywheel had a deep wear spot where the lining mated, about 1/16" - 1/8" IIRC. Basically with the plate sitting deeper, the PP just no longer had enough travel to disengage. I had to get a new flywheel. As the flywheel gets cut over time, the whole clutch assembly moves away from the throw out bearing and since the bearing will now require more travel, the linkage may not. My Ford shop manual for my Mustang lists a minimum thickness, I think a .060 cut is the limit of resurfacing according to Ford manual IIRC.TomOverdrive is overrated
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Lost our clutch in our 73 Chevy in much the same way..... the clutch was a bit old and about ready for a swap but was still usable...it was the flywheel was shot and had to be replaced....If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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I was driving a tractor in a field and the clutch pedal fell off the side of the transmission. Killed the motor when it stopped got off and put the pedal back on the pivot and used a nail in place of the pin to hold it on. I lost the clutch in my 79 by using auto heads on a five speed. it burnt the cable. replaced cable and headers.
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Originally posted by Huskinhano View PostI had something similar happen a long time ago with a VW. The clutch was starting to slip a little. I had just picked up a clutch kit on a Friday while driving home over the weekend. On the way home, the clutch would not disengage. I had to shift without the clutch. Red lights, I'd slip it into neutral and shut the engine off and slip it back into 1st, then hit the key to crank it back up and start off. When I got the clutch out I found the flywheel had a deep wear spot where the lining mated, about 1/16" - 1/8" IIRC. Basically with the plate sitting deeper, the PP just no longer had enough travel to disengage. I had to get a new flywheel. As the flywheel gets cut over time, the whole clutch assembly moves away from the throw out bearing and since the bearing will now require more travel, the linkage may not. My Ford shop manual for my Mustang lists a minimum thickness, I think a .060 cut is the limit of resurfacing according to Ford manual IIRC.
Broke in the driveway of my house by fixing there. Used a piece of the carpet I just ripped out of the living room to lie on.Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 16, 2015, 02:06 PM.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostI always wondered what would happen if you popped the cap on the Coke guy. Easy access lobotomy?
The truck looks great and that's a super setting for the pics. Where is that?
DanBS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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Originally posted by yellomalibu View PostYou usually take lots of pics and tell the story of how you went about fixing something... How'd you fix your clutch? Was it just a simple adjustment?
Yes. I just adjusted the lower rod. In this case, I lengthened the rod to get full clutch disengagement in order to be able to shift. It would be hard to take pics because the header tubes are in the way. I prefer having the adjustable upper rod on my Impala. Makes adjusting so much easier.
I would prefer to adjust it out farther to get the pedal a little farther from the floor when the clutch starts to engage. The funny thing is that my Impala needs just the opposite adjustment. The pedal is way near the top before it engages. I will do this before summer so not to burn the clutch on full throttle runs.
Last edited by Scott Liggett; April 18, 2015, 07:34 AM.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
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