Been doing some tinkering in the background. I've wanted to experiment with converting a smog pump to a vacuum pump but have been finding it quite difficult to find smog pumps for cheap and to get them sent to me. So far after several months of looking I got ONE in my hands last month. A seized up unit from an early 70's Buick.
Some background, it's fairly well documented that the carbon seals in these things don't like oil. For some reason it causes the units to lock up, sometimes catastrophically enough to shear the pulley off. After opening one up, I think I know how the catastrophic failure happens, the carbon seals not only seal up against the vanes but also keep it fairly centered through the rotation, and if oil cooks itself to the vane and chips the carbon seals, eventually breaking them into pieces then the support for the vanes go away and it jams, hard. GZ Motorsports I think is the only company that uses the smog pump design and their solution is a custom seal that can take the heat and not be significantly damaged by debris/cooked oil. Taking a page from them I went to the hardware store and bought some large 3/16th O-rings to make new seals out of. My thought is, if the seals keep somewhat oiled they may be happy, and if they get slightly damaged, they aren't at risk of completely shattering like the hard carbon seals. Google'ing indicates the hardware store seals are Nitrile and tolerate temps up to 250ºF which is pretty low for the working environment, but it's what was available.
The pump came apart reasonably easy. I cracked the external fan, but I have no plan on re-using it anyways. Seems just a bit of rust build up from sitting caused it to be stuck as all the needle bearings and bearing surfaces were in good shape. Heck, even the carbon seals were in good shape.
First order of business was sealing up the intake hole so I can make a new one that a hose can slip on to. The hole was behind the external fan, so with some crappy welding (aluminum casing, generic MIG welding) to make some support structure that RTV could be smeared over to seal it up.
It seems that one carbon seal is fixed in place and the other seal has a small bent piece of metal to spring the seal against the vane to maintain the seal. The small bent piece of metal wasn't going to work with the flexible rubber. I found that zip ties were the right width so clipping some of them I shimmed the seals into place. It actually seemed to be a decent fit with minimal resistance on the vane when I turned it. I used hi-temperature wheel bearing grease on all the bearings and coated the rubber seals and vanes with it as well. Hi-temp right?
Got a nice "wipe" pattern on the vanes.
I cleaned out most the gunk that was built up in the housing and back plate. I tapped the stock outlet on the backing plate with 1/2" NPT and drilled and tapped a corresponding hole on the inlet side (seen on the top left) and put it back together.
Seems I didn't take a picture of it assembled and on the engine, but the result of test #1 is yet to be determined, but I've removed the pump for disassembly and inspection. I ran it for about 10 minutes with the outlet not connected to anything and it pulled just under 5inHg at 2,000rpm, which is on par with how I had the intake pulling vacuum through two oil separators. However the outlet gas smelled of burning rubber, which I took as a bad sign and removed the pump for disassembly and inspection. I expect to find partially melted rubber, but who knows? I haven't looked yet, but I'm going to start looking for teflon o-rings or small plates to cut in the 3/16th thickness range to try next.
Fun fun, and if you know where some GM smog pumps are you want to send me for cheap, let me know! I figure I'll eventually break this one in testing.
Some background, it's fairly well documented that the carbon seals in these things don't like oil. For some reason it causes the units to lock up, sometimes catastrophically enough to shear the pulley off. After opening one up, I think I know how the catastrophic failure happens, the carbon seals not only seal up against the vanes but also keep it fairly centered through the rotation, and if oil cooks itself to the vane and chips the carbon seals, eventually breaking them into pieces then the support for the vanes go away and it jams, hard. GZ Motorsports I think is the only company that uses the smog pump design and their solution is a custom seal that can take the heat and not be significantly damaged by debris/cooked oil. Taking a page from them I went to the hardware store and bought some large 3/16th O-rings to make new seals out of. My thought is, if the seals keep somewhat oiled they may be happy, and if they get slightly damaged, they aren't at risk of completely shattering like the hard carbon seals. Google'ing indicates the hardware store seals are Nitrile and tolerate temps up to 250ºF which is pretty low for the working environment, but it's what was available.
The pump came apart reasonably easy. I cracked the external fan, but I have no plan on re-using it anyways. Seems just a bit of rust build up from sitting caused it to be stuck as all the needle bearings and bearing surfaces were in good shape. Heck, even the carbon seals were in good shape.
First order of business was sealing up the intake hole so I can make a new one that a hose can slip on to. The hole was behind the external fan, so with some crappy welding (aluminum casing, generic MIG welding) to make some support structure that RTV could be smeared over to seal it up.
It seems that one carbon seal is fixed in place and the other seal has a small bent piece of metal to spring the seal against the vane to maintain the seal. The small bent piece of metal wasn't going to work with the flexible rubber. I found that zip ties were the right width so clipping some of them I shimmed the seals into place. It actually seemed to be a decent fit with minimal resistance on the vane when I turned it. I used hi-temperature wheel bearing grease on all the bearings and coated the rubber seals and vanes with it as well. Hi-temp right?
Got a nice "wipe" pattern on the vanes.
I cleaned out most the gunk that was built up in the housing and back plate. I tapped the stock outlet on the backing plate with 1/2" NPT and drilled and tapped a corresponding hole on the inlet side (seen on the top left) and put it back together.
Seems I didn't take a picture of it assembled and on the engine, but the result of test #1 is yet to be determined, but I've removed the pump for disassembly and inspection. I ran it for about 10 minutes with the outlet not connected to anything and it pulled just under 5inHg at 2,000rpm, which is on par with how I had the intake pulling vacuum through two oil separators. However the outlet gas smelled of burning rubber, which I took as a bad sign and removed the pump for disassembly and inspection. I expect to find partially melted rubber, but who knows? I haven't looked yet, but I'm going to start looking for teflon o-rings or small plates to cut in the 3/16th thickness range to try next.
Fun fun, and if you know where some GM smog pumps are you want to send me for cheap, let me know! I figure I'll eventually break this one in testing.
Comment