BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)

[Huskinhano]

Ouch!

[CDMBill]

Well I put it all together, put the wheels on and was quickly reminded that these QA1 K-members are known to locate the passenger's front wheel 1/2-3/4" farther forward than the driver's. Why? Heck if I know but I'm not the only guy to run into this.

With the stock lower control arms, I did not have an option to correct it. With these, I was able to trim the pivot tubes and make spacers from a 7/8" Harbor Freight Tools deep impact socket. Haha. It was late and it fit the ID and OD I needed perfectly.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1150633[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1150634[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1150635[/ATTACH]
Finally on the ground. It needs to have the toe set and I'm not sure the 150# springs are going work. Most BBF guys run a 175 and these needed a ton of preload to achieve the desired ride height. Time will tell.

Also worked a little on the N2O stuff. Since the bottle is so long, and the spare well is somewhat irregularly shaped. I needed to add some spacers to the bottle brackets.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1150636[/ATTACH]

Most of the after market K members move the LCA forward a bit to pick up some positive caster. The Afco unit I have allows for spacers on the LCA's and I have the inner mount of the LCA's as far forward as I can get them. More caster equals more stability on the top end and you are effectively lengthening the wheel base forward which helps with weight transfer etc. My front tires just clear the front edge of the fender.

[BBR]

A couple of weeks ago I was all set to go to the track and pull the trigger with the N2O on. Judd and I go over to the shop, get everything ready and start to back the Mustang out of the shop. As I was backing out, it starts dropping tach signal and then dies on the ramp. What the heck?!??!? This thing has been awesome since I moved the crank sensor closer to the wheel. So, I connect my phone and fire it back up so I can log what is going on. Car runs fine for about a minute then starts dropping tach again..... and dies. I look at the log and sure enough, it runs fine for a minute then starts having ecu resets until it won't run anymore. We wait a minute and then pull it back in and jack up the front end so I can check the crank sensor. Looks perfect. I adjust it ever so slightly closer to the trigger wheel, but that made no difference. We decided to just forget the Mustang and go to plan B, the yellow truck. We have a blast racing it, but I told that story over in the truck thread.

The only thing different from the last test drive (to test struts) that I can think of, is the plugs. I read and read trying to figure out if a plug change can screw around with the Megasquirt. However, I had minimal luck tracking down a definitive culprit. Then, as I was reading spark plug specs from the previous plugs (Autolite 3924's) and the new plugs (NGK 5820's), I realized the Autolite's were a resistor plug and the NGK's were a non-resistor. A quick search of the Megasquirt forums confirmed that non-resistor plugs have been know to cause tach signal issues and sync loss. Whoo Hoo! There's my problem.

I have not bought a new set of plugs but am confident that this is the problem. The remaining problem is that the Autolite's are a projected tip plug and the NGK's are a non-projected. Non-projected is recommended for nitrous use but I cannot seem to find a resistor, non-projected tip plug that will fit. An NGK BR8ES would be the perfect plug IF it was a 5/8" hex and not 13/16". 13/16" will not fit in the plug holes on these heads. So I am stuck with using a projected tip plug, probably a 3923 or a 3922. Maybe it will not be a big deal with such a small hit of N20. I hope.

Next track night is Friday, but wouldn't you know? My niece graduates from High School that evening. Phooey!

[TheSilverBuick]

Good catch. I've read at least a dozen times about people chasing their tails looking for electrical noise and it coming down to having non-resistor plugs in the engine.

[quick 52]

run AR3934 they are non projected I use that plug to 180hp

[CDMBill]

You'll want the AR3933 one step colder, non-projected tip. I know a number of folks like the NGK form a plug reading stand point, but I'm an Autolite bigot as I had two slightly cracked NGK's out of the box.

[quick 52]

I looked at my plugs today they are AR3934 and non-resistor Don't know of a resistor plug that's non-projected odd third # is non-resistor even is resistor.
maybe NGK BCR8ES

[TheSilverBuick]

but I'm an Autolite bigot

Ha, so I'm not the only one that uses Autolites

[Deaf Bob]

Ha, so I'm not the only one that uses Autolites

Nope....

[BBR]

I looked at my plugs today they are AR3934 and non-resistor Don't know of a resistor plug that's non-projected odd third # is non-resistor even is resistor.
maybe NGK BCR8ES

YEEEEEESSSSSS!

[BBR]

NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

That's a non-USA market plug!!!

I can order them on ebay from the UK, but that almost seems ridiculous.

[Beagle]

I used to ship stuff all over the world from Micrografx... and pretty much all NGK's come from somewhere other than here, right? There were some shoes I got used to wearing out every five years or so that I had to mail order the second to last pair. Then they stopped selling them in the US. I ordered them from Spain the last time. Shipping wasn't that bad. Amazon maybe?

[quick 52]

Ninja performance has them

[BBR]

I ordered them off eBay. $40 for a pack of 12. Hope it does not take a month to get here!

[BBR]

I've had the plugs for a while, but have not had time to put them in. If all goes right, I will throw them in and FINALLY take it to the track tonight. I'm a little nervous about hitting the N2O, but I guess that is what keeps this hobby exciting. Haha.