Current thinking is fix it well enough to have something to play with and gather parts for the next engine combo...... Not saying exactly what that might be at this point.
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BBR's 83GT - 552 BBF version 3.0 (at least)
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Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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The AFR BBF heads are still vaporware. If I were to do a head change and stay with a BBF, I would go straight to an A460. I think they are less $ than a P51 and have more ultimate potential. Either head would necessitate a dedicated piston or new valve notch.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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Mopar....I guess we'll see how they last?My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Originally posted by BBR View PostThe AFR BBF heads are still vaporware. If I were to do a head change and stay with a BBF, I would go straight to an A460. I think they are less $ than a P51 and have more ultimate potential. Either head would necessitate a dedicated piston or new valve notch.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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Randal, that thought has crossed my mind more than once. That 545 short block would probably live a long happy life in the truck. I have not made any concrete plans about any of this yet.Last edited by BBR; September 18, 2014, 02:39 PM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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I don't have a lot of personal experience with these types of failures but I would have thought that hitting the valve hard enough to break it off and then hitting it a second time to drive it through the seat and up to the larger area of the port to where it could freely travel around surely would cause some trauma to the piston. The intake valve is pretty close to the ring land so there would seem to be a potential for closing that up as well
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Where I work, we see a lot of engine carnage. Still amazes me and seems physically impossible how a valve head will break off one cylinder and end up in another if the engine is run long enough. Our engine forensic team only gives me "Yep, that will happen." for an explanation.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
Resident Instigator
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I've seen plenty of strange things and it always amazes me how one thing can make it to different cylinders via the intake tract. When the Bonneville Camaro's Holley vent tube got ingested that thing hit at least three cylinders.
I always wonder about the rod bearings or crank when something gets pinched.Last edited by TheSilverBuick; September 20, 2014, 07:49 AM.Escaped on a technicality.
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I'll post pics of the autopsy when I can do it from a PC. The beat up pistons are still zero deck, so I feel like the rods survived ok, but the rod bearings are probably smeared. While it's not a worst case scenario, it ain't far from it. LolLife is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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#2 Valve head.
#8 piston. The small chunk of valve was in here bouncing around. Note the big dent in the piston at the 6 o'clock position. There is a corresponding dent in the cylinder wall about 3/4" down. It is prob. 0.030" deep, so that cylinder is toast.
#8 head. Easily fixable. Might need a new seat. I have not pulled the valves to check.
#2 piston. Pretty beat up, but cylinder wall looks ok.
#2 head. Pretty beat up as well. Chamber will probably clean up, but the seat and guide will likely need to be replaced.
The culprit. Just this tiny amount of interference will eventually kill a valve. This is not where I was expecting to see a valve mark at all. Like I said before, it was not enough interference to notice when rotating the engine over, so I didn't have a clue it was happening. When I built this engine I had a crap ton of P2V clearance, so I didn't bother to check anything. The additional duration, lift and advance all added up to bring that crap ton to a negative value. Totally my mistake for not checking.
So. Where do we go from here? That seems to be the question that is burning in everyone's minds at this point. Of course, the cost of each option is a huge factor. Current list of options:
1. Pull engine, order 2 pistons and a set of rings and rod bearings, sleeve block (different machine shop this time), fix head and put it back like it was with the old camshaft.
2. Pull engine, order 2 pistons and a set of rings and rod bearings, sleeve block (different machine shop this time), fix head and change cam to a hyd ft and never worry about solid roller lifters any more. lol
3. Buy a running EFI 460 from a local yard (already located one - $500), use the short block in the Mustang, swap to a bigger hyd ft cam, fix heads, save the EFI stuff to use on the pickup. Essentially killing 2 birds with 1 stone. Car would definitely be slower, but with the smaller, milder engine, I might be more inclined to drive it and enjoy it more.
4. Go off the wall, sell off all the BBF stuff and swap in a 5.7L hemi and A518 O/D trans. This actually sounds like the most fun since winter is fast approaching, but is certainly not the lowest cost method and would definitely require selling parts to fund it. (Currently there's a 5.7L on CL here for 900 and an A518 for 650).
Been really thinking A LOT about turbochargers lately and the current engine package is not conducive to adding any sort of forced induction. Static compression is just too high and it would need a huge turbo to work properly. Plus 10.00 is as quick as I really need to go and a turbo'd 545 would have the potential to eclipse that by a significant margin. If I wanted to turbo something, an S480 blowing a stock bottom end 460 (10-12 psi) or a stock 5.7L Hemi would probably make enough power to run mid/low-10's up here and still be plenty mild mannered on the street.
Anyway, that's where I'm at.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail
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