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  • #76
    I think I have too much pre-load on the spring. Reading up on them I've read between a 1/4 and 1/3 of a turn is sufficient and I turned mine a full half. The coil spacing made me suspicious. I'm going to pop the snap ring off and go for the 1/4 to 1/3 turn.

    Stiney, this one has a half dozen or more notches for the spring to catch, so quite a bit of adjustability. Since this is a 2-stroke that should wind up in rpm's I'm going to start on the heavy side, just not as heavy as I've apparently gone!


    **Edit. I reset the spring to 1/3 and 1/4 turn pre-loads and it still looked like my previous picture, so I think the spring is tweaked. I'll add getting a new one to the list of minor parts to pick up later.
    Last edited by TheSilverBuick; March 20, 2017, 08:11 PM.
    Escaped on a technicality.

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    • #77
      I just bought a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 600 EFI throttle body set with upper injectors on E-bay for $28. Each of the four throttle bodies are 32mm, so if I can fabricate a pair of intake tubes for two of them that should give more than enough air. The Kawi 600 engines were rated at 100HP to the tire, with 8 injectors so that is technically only 25HP worth of fuel injector with only two injectors in place, but assuming they are not maxed out by design and I have the ability to raise the fuel pressure 50%, I'm hoping they'll be sufficient. Just another piece of the puzzle.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #78
        6+ choices? Yikes!
        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • #79
          with it being a two stroke and every rev being an intake event, what does that do to injector duty cycle?
          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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          • #80
            Double it? Since Duty Cycle is a function of time, like horsepower and fuel consumption. I just need enough injector to support ~35HP. Of course Megasquirt has a 2-stroke setting for the fuel and spark calculations. One guy I read that megasquirted a 2-stroke said the duty cycle was significantly higher than he would have expected, which if he ran too much he would of had to upgrade the injector but in his case it didn't come to that. I'm thinking a 50% bump in fuel pressure will help this. I'm kind of considering just running all four throttle bodies and injectors, and that should be an easy 50HP worth of injector at stock fuel pressure.

            I think this is what my intake looks like if I were to remove it, so just V a pair of tubes together on each intake port? Get a gasket for a pattern and have a flange water jetted?
            Last edited by TheSilverBuick; March 22, 2017, 03:36 PM.
            Escaped on a technicality.

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            • #81
              Googling info is slim, but it looks like the injectors should be rated around 440cc, which is approximately 42lb/hr. That sounds awfully high to me so I'll keep looking around. Interestingly enough from what I gather the 600cc and 1400cc bikes use the same injector, the computer just adjusts the fuel pressure so it could be correct. Probably needs the larger injector to keep the duty cycle down and still give adequate fuel at high rpm's.
              Escaped on a technicality.

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              • #82
                I'm overthinking it - I was thinking "Double it" too, but thinking about it more, I think it would half it. X amount of fuel per HP and 2 squirts instead of one. Yeah, that sounds big... One 42 lb injector should be plenty for 35 ish HP. And I just lost cabin pressure thinking about it. Nevermind. lol.
                Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                • #83
                  ... Click image for larger version

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                  Patrick & Tammy
                  - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                  • #84
                    Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                    Googling info is slim, but it looks like the injectors should be rated around 440cc, which is approximately 42lb/hr. That sounds awfully high to me so I'll keep looking around. Interestingly enough from what I gather the 600cc and 1400cc bikes use the same injector, the computer just adjusts the fuel pressure so it could be correct. Probably needs the larger injector to keep the duty cycle down and still give adequate fuel at high rpm's.
                    I think your onto something with the short duty cycle and high RPMs. That seems like a giant injector for a bike motor but they sure do have to open quick at 12,000 RPM

                    1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 340 with a 360
                    1997 Jeep Cherokee off road toy/driver. lifted, lockers, stroked 4.0

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                    • #85
                      Finally got my tools packed up and got back to this. With some MAP gas and getting the shifter glowing red hot with vise grips holding the pin and using a punch and hammer to tap the body the pin came out. While it was still hot I tapped a new pin in its place. I'm not sure if it's too long or not, but I'll start with where it's at now and if it doesn't seat I'll grind it down little by little. I may pull the other side to A) check it's condition, and B) compare the length sticking out.

                      I made the mistake of seeing about "polishing" it up with a red scotchbrite pad while it was still cooking hot and kind of smeared it. So I'll wait a day or two and try it again.




                      Also the motorcycle throttlebodies showed up as well. For a bit I thought I was going to need to make an electronic throttle controller (Drive-by-wire) set up, but it's still fully manual. I'm not entirely sure what the big motor in the middle does other than act like an electronic choke. I think both shafts are two pieces and I might be able to split it into pairs, and be able to run just two of them.



                      Escaped on a technicality.

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                      • #86
                        IAC? man, those are cool looking. No boots?
                        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                        • #87
                          No, no pigtails either, pretty bare. But some were being sold without the fuel rail and such for even more dollars. It shouldn't be an IAC because it only restricts air, and won't work as a choke because with EFI it "shouldn't" increase the air/fuel ratio. My guess is it's a throttle dampener designed to keep air speed up in the intake and keep the engine from bogging when the throttle is snapped open. Not a whole lot of info online about them. I assumed this thing would be a Ride-by-Wire deal and that thing controlled both butterflies, but not the case. Conventional cable it is.
                          Escaped on a technicality.

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                          • #88
                            Well the transmission has to come out. I cut down the dowel, beveled the end a bit and installed it and it felt good and solid when I installed it and worked it between forward and reverse, so buttoned everything back together and started it up and had reverse on the left side for all of a 1/2 second. Felt like it bit then jumped out of gear. I pulled the diamond shifter out and peered down the hole and there was a huge chunk of the shifter collar missing. I pushed the MAX back into place in the garage and went to take a picture but it spun over and now looks "perfect" through the hole. So I spent about 15 minutes beginning the removal process of transmission, should have it out with another 15-20 minutes worth of time.

                            Looks like I'll be in need of a shifter collar like this, and who knows at this point what else I may find. They appear to be about $161 new.


                            Searching threads on the 6x6 forum I ran across this, I'm guessing mine looks about the same. General thought is excessive force trying to get it into gear causes this. Probably broke then shaved the pin?


                            Here is a picture of the shortened dowel and the one from the right side that is good shape.
                            Last edited by TheSilverBuick; April 10, 2017, 08:08 AM.
                            Escaped on a technicality.

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                            • #89
                              Pulled the transmission out and apart tonight. The left shift collar is toast, both worn and broken, and there was one band that was twisted up and had some friction material flake off when I tried to straighten it. Otherwise everything else looks pretty good. So I'm in it for a shift collar and probably one band.

                              The drums look to be in decent shape. The one on the right of the photo is actually the left drum.


                              The right side bands.


                              The left bands look good except the bent part at the bottom of the photo. All the bushings in the transmission look good.


                              Despite wrapping the friction material and gently using a pair of crescent wrenches to keep from pinching it while twisting, it still flaked.


                              The shift collars. Again the one on the right is actually the left side. So the right shift collar looks good, the left is worned down as well as broken.


                              The broken collar and the piece was just sitting there.


                              Just a couple pictures of one of the drums.




                              Escaped on a technicality.

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                              • #90
                                Two folks on the 6x6 board think that the shift collar on the right was an 18 tooth collar that had half the teeth ground off. Can't say I disagree with that assessment looking at it again. There are two guys looking in their stash of parts to see if they have a 9 tooth shift collar floating around. This is a semi-common abuse failure caused by forcing the shifter into gear when the teeth aren't lined up. A relatively simple fix is to do a split-shift modification, which I plan on doing.

                                Escaped on a technicality.

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