So far the feed back I got is it looks like a clip has been lost causing the driven clutch spring to unwind and push into the sprocket. So that hopefully is straight forward. And the general consensus on the reverse issue is shifter pin, which can be repaired/replaced with the transmission in place.
Yep, there is a clip missing that holds the 2 halves of the driven clutch assembly together.
Other than that, the ramps and even the plastic slider look good. Should be an "easy" repair.
Keep in mind there may be a choice of a few holes for the spring. Ours have 3 holes, it controls the "quickness" of the engagement. For example, in the go-cart world, one is for flat ground, one is for rough, and one is for mud.
At least that has been our experience, and we have been learning karts quite thoroughly.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Yes I'm learning thoroughly on this one too! There is a "red" spring that is quite popular with the 6x6 crowd, but they are primarily 4-stroke engines that cap out around 3,500rpm and this 2-stroke is supposed to be buzzing 7,000+ with less low end torque so has different requirements. I'll look for the different locating holes. The directions pretty much say pre-load the spring by turning the clutch two teeth and set.
Got more information on the reverse issue. Because it moves normally in the forward direction the four bands inside are likely in functional(good?) shape and the shifter is still suspect number 1. I should be able to remove the shifter linkage, jack the left side of the AATV up and shift the transmission with a screw driver while spinning the driven clutch with my hand and watching what the wheels do. This will verify shifter operation, and in theory I should see an obvious problem with the shifter pin that is apparently a common issue.
As a side note, interestingly enough I went back and looked at some photo's I took when I first got it, and the spring appears to be in place. I may have been the one to upset the clip when I was wiggling things with a pry bar to make sure every thing moved freely. So I'll look in the tub for it.
It's looking like it's the shifter pin, as called by the guys on the 6x6 forum. I didn't test it manually with the wheels jacked up in the air and manually turning the shaft because I ran out of time after removing the driven clutch. I'm really missing all my tools in storage! I need to remove that pin and replace it. I bet a torch would help, or weld a rod to it, put it in a vice and slide hammer it off and cut a new dowel, etc. One of the guys on the 6x6 forum says he knows a trick to pulling them out so I'm waiting to hear back.
I removed the driven clutch and all in all it looks good but definitely is missing some things. Also it looks like the chain just gave it a cosmetic rubbing and nothing to worry about. It appears a woodruff key is missing from the driven clutch, and I'm not sure if only one or if a second C-clip is also missing. I've asked these questions on the 6x6 forum.
The cosmetic chain damage.
The T-20 shaft looks good. Question 1, does a clip go in that groove?
I guess I didn't get a picture of it, but there is a slot on the pulley shaft that I assume should have a key in it to line up with the slot on the end piece. Question 2, there is a groove on the outside of the pulley shaft, does a clip go into that groove too?
Getting a woodruff key or dowel shouldn't be too challenging, particularly with Summit Racing down the street, but getting the right clips may take some searching.
Ace Hardware FTW! I took the driven clutch to Ace and found a woodruff key that fit the slot, though needed some trimming, as well as a snap ring and 1/4" dowel.
Grabbed these from the drawers at Ace. I picked up some new files since mine are in storage. A guy on the 6x6 forum sent me pictures of the factory woodruff key, which had ears, so I had something to base it on. Sadly the trimming of the woodruff key would have been just a few minutes with a 4" grinder/cut off wheel, but I spent about 15 minutes with the file, so all in all wasn't terrible.
Won't win any awards but should do the job nicely.
Pre-loaded the spring and slid the end piece on and installed the snap ring. I didn't have any snap ring pliers on hand, but a flat head screw driver got the job done.
That snap-ring should stay in place.
Unfortunately the dowel didn't come out of the shifter for me. I tried a few penetrating oils and vise-grips, but no go. I think I'm just going to run it by a machine shop and have them work their magic over and install a new dowel. On a good note though, I lifted the left side off the ground and spun the wheels. At first it was in neutral, and the transmission shaft didn't move, check. Next used a screw driver to shift it into forward and the transmission shaft spun, check. Then moment of truth and shifted into reverse and it didn't want to move, puzzled me for a second, pulled the left lever and spun the tires and the transmission shaft spun! So looking good on it being the pin. Looking at how the shifting is leveraged, I can see why the pin wears like it does.
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