Triumph GT6

[squirrel]

thanks!

I started into the fuel system too, I played with the original pump, and it seems to have some leaking valves, so I ordered a rebuild kit for it. It's an AC pump, so it's worth trying to fix it. It has a priming lever, which is really cool.

The tank didn't have much crap in it. I pulled it out, and used carb cleaner to get some varnish out, and sloshed some fresh gas around in it, and used my grabber tool to get some pieces of some type of rubber seal out, which are the kind of thing that would plug up the little tiny hole where the fuel line comes out. The PO had sort of installed an electric pump up front, and ran a long piece of 5/16" rubber line the whole length of the car. Turns out, the metal line was plugged right next to where he cut it, a few inches from the tank. I cut off the plugged part, and it blows just fine now. I added an inline filter where the line was cut in back, too.

I may hook up the electric pump and see if I can get the carbs to fill. The carbs had been overhauled, maybe two years ago, but they seem kind of sticky, so I need to take them apart and make sure everything is ok inside.

then maybe I can see if it will fire up. What fun

[squirrel]

got some fuel into the carbs, they leak, working on getting them sorted out. But it did fire up and run for a moment. Yay. no big cloud of blue smoke, either

[squirrel]

runs smooth, has some tapping sound...I tried to get the valve cover off earlier, but didn't feel like prying it as much as it seems to need. Looks like someone glued it on pretty tight.

[byakk0]

nice work - looks like a mini-Ferrari

You're not too far off. Michelotti designed the GT6 and it's little sister, the Spitfire.

[byakk0]

Jim, I just went through a rough patch with my fuel pump. Do you have the glass domed type? (don't break the glass, it's tough to find a replacement)
I just rebuilt mine too, though all I replaced was the diaphragm and the seal between the glass and the body-the kit I bought came with a new seal but it didn't fit right, so I cut a new cork one. The valves that came with my kit were just a hair too large, but fortunately I didn't need them. If you have machining equipment, you may be able to enlargen the recesses for them.
If you haven't discovered already, you can remove the top of the pump via 6 screws and rebuild it on the block.



As for the carbs, check out.

http://zenithcarb.co.uk/

Haynes has a manual on them, but it is more theory.

You'll probably need new bowl gaskets and needle valves, perhaps even new diaphragms.
Congrats on getting it to start. Sweet!

[squirrel]

thanks! The carbs got new kits by the previous owner a couple years ago, I got them to sort of work...although they need adjustment, and a few parts put back on the enriching mechanism..

We'll see what happens with the pump. Mine is the metal top AC pump, I found a web page detailing a rebuild, and the parts of that one look identical to mine, so I think the new stuff will fit. There apparently was a design change at engine number KC5000, mine is just after the change.

[byakk0]

Makes sense. my car is an early commission number, 1293.
I like the look the glass top myself, but should probably get a replacement just in case. the valves on my spare don't work.

btw, I think your video just solved my throttle linkage problem. Thanks! I'll be able to play with it Monday, I hope.
(and be careful with those yellowed plastic connectors between the carbs as they can get brittle. If you break one, you'll have to fab a replacement, no one makes them aftermarket.)

[squirrel]

If you need any pics of anything, let me know

[byakk0]

What parts of the enriching mechanism? Those look like the simplest carb, just the basic CD150. They are not much more than a jet, throttle butterfly, and choke.

[byakk0]

This is the area in question. I'm positive I put the wrong lever on the throttle pedal. The black one angles up and puts the connection too close to the linkage on the carb, so connecting the rear carb to the pedal, as it should be, just doesn't work.
I have another lever that will stick straight out, as I see yours is set up that way.
(as it is, I have attempted setting it up with a center connection like some of the later GT6's have. Not much luck there either, even with the correct bits)

Runs otherwise if I disconnect it.
Ah...the joys of reassembling a car I took apart 18 years ago...

[squirrel]

looks like the Mk I cars used the forward facing lever, and not the middle pivot thingy.

[RockJustRock]

Damn, I looked away for a day or two and Jim has this thing in a million pieces AND the motor running. Plus all is fully documented here and he's recruited a new member for his British Bangshift faction. The industriousness never ceases to amaze!

[TheSilverBuick]

^^No kidding!

[byakk0]

New recruit. Lol. Guess I followed from the triumph forum.
Wish I had some american steel I could post about. I'd love to have a 70 chevy truck I could trick out, but one project is enough for me right now. (My avatar is the vision. Mine is in primer and barely driveable right now)

Thanks for the pic Jim.
The center connection is for carbs used on later models cars. Mine is setup for the center connection or at the rear, like yours.

You mentioned on the other forum your electrical issues. Many can stem from bad grounds and or corroded terminals at the fuse box. Do you have a mk1 wiring diagram?

[squirrel]

I have the wiring diagram in a few places. I just need to go through everything one step at a time. I've fixed a few little problems already. There is very little corrosion on this car...I was pleasantly surprised that I only needed to fiddle with one light socket, to get almost all the exterior lights working. There was a broken connection on a headlight wire too, that was easy to fix.

The fun part is getting under the dash with a test light, to see if power is getting into and out of the switches, etc.