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  • #16
    Originally posted by dulcich View Post
    Thanks guys,
    I was really surprised by how long it took to get this far; I did paint it with brush and roller, and that took forever and was no fun, but I was afraid of overspray if spraying, especially getting up under the front lips of the shelving inside. The finishing and sanding created an unreal amount of dust. Another surprise was the cost of cabinet hardware. The overall cost of the project was probably around 6-700 bucks. I could be off on that, since I never added it all up.

    I know what you are talking about the toe room, BBM, but I just gave it 2.5" overlap on the front edge of the bench. The benchtop will be handy for laying out parts when testing stuff or tearing down the engine on the dyno. It is also a good place for photography. I will not have any workbenches in the test cell, except for a small folding table.

    I still plan on a run of steel conduit with a pair of light fixtures above, switches on the right side for the shop lights, and a pair of outlet boxes above the bench. I reinforced one area to mount an extra vice i have. I'm just out of time right now, so this is as far as I'll go for the time being.
    -dulcich
    You didn't steal Steve Brule's folding table from Westech's dyno room?
    BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

    Resident Instigator

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    • #17
      I opened this thread expecting some crazy hillbilly crap - but was surprised to see a seriously awesome project!!! nice work!!
      www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
        I opened this thread expecting some crazy hillbilly crap
        That's odd, what could have possibly given you that impression?

        I guess I could have went with... I was cleanin out some old cabinets and found a possum nest tucked up in an old Chevy heater box. Went out back to unchain my coon hounds and... Well, nevermind.

        BTW, I don't know why I wrote 902; it is a 901.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by dieselgeek View Post
          I opened this thread expecting some crazy hillbilly crap - but was surprised to see a seriously awesome project!!! nice work!!
          The Hillbilly factor was using OSB.........


          Looks good though.........

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          • #20
            The way material prices are going - OSB is the new plywood... last time I looked - finish grade plywood was $50 a sheet.
            There's always something new to learn.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by milner351 View Post
              The way material prices are going - OSB is the new plywood... last time I looked - finish grade plywood was $50 a sheet.
              You've got that right, milner. The other thing is that even the sanded finish-grade ply they sell these days just isn't flat. I find the OSB sheathing is a lot flatter. The stuff I used for the doors was pretty good, but it was a high-grade hardwood ply, and it was on special for less than half the normal price.

              Actually, I've experimented quite a bit with finishing OSB, and built all of my interior rooms including an engine building room, store room, the dyno cell, and control room from OSB sheathing rather than drywall, including the ceilings in two of the rooms; the other two ceilings were ply. I fill the joint gaps, tape and mud the joins, and then plaster over the whole thing with a trowel as a topcoat. Then finish sand, prime and paint. The walls in all the rooms are very smooth and uniform, nicer than most drywall jobs. These walls are substantially more durable and impact-resistant, and it is easy to attach things to the walls. I used the same technique to finish the exposed surfaces of these cabinets.

              When I first tried plastering OSB, it fell of in sheets once dry, and I chiseled what was left all off. I couldn't find any info on the web, so I just experimented until I figured out a system that works. I tried a lot of approaches, and even thought about spraying knock-down, but I did not want a textured finish. I did my storage room nearly six years ago, and that plaster job is there to stay.

              Here is the inside of the control room. These walls and ceiling are all OSB, but fully plastered, sanded and finished. They are very smooth and straight. It does take some time to get good at laying the plaster/topcoat with a trowel. If you guys want some more detail on this, let me know.
              Last edited by dulcich; February 27, 2012, 06:15 PM.

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              • #22
                plaster over OSB - that sounds like a TON of work!

                My friend in Ohio took the multilayer approach. Starting with the shell of his pole building he put up foam board insulation, then OSB, then drywall over the top of the osb.

                Compared to all the work involved, I'm not opposed to painting over OSB, or using steel as the interior finish of a building. There are pro's and cons to every approach.

                Your place sure looks spectacular.

                How'd you get drywall mud / plaster to stick to the OSB - then how in the world did you get it flat over huge areas? My shoulders hurt just thinking about it!
                Last edited by milner351; February 27, 2012, 06:14 PM.
                There's always something new to learn.

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                • #23
                  Why do I picture you sitting at the controls in a white tyvek suit and running the dyno?

                  Seriously, that is an awesome looking setup.
                  That which you manifest is before you.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                    The way material prices are going - OSB is the new plywood... last time I looked - finish grade plywood was $50 a sheet.
                    Oh I know what you mean, I wouldn't have used either, I like Melamine...........

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                      plaster over OSB - that sounds like a TON of work!

                      My friend in Ohio took the multilayer approach. Starting with the shell of his pole building he put up foam board insulation, then OSB, then drywall over the top of the osb.

                      Compared to all the work involved, I'm not opposed to painting over OSB, or using steel as the interior finish of a building. There are pro's and cons to every approach.

                      Your place sure looks spectacular.

                      How'd you get drywall mud / plaster to stick to the OSB - then how in the world did you get it flat over huge areas? My shoulders hurt just thinking about it!
                      It is definately quite a bit of work. I start out by filling the joint gaps with Fix-it-All. This stuff does not shrink and grabs well, goes off fast, and is super hard when cured. I knife it in very carefully right in the gaps, and completely fill them. It is very hard to sand, so I knife it off just level. I pre-sand the joins before filling to make sure they all line up level on edge first, using a D/A air sander and #40 grit. Then blow out the gaps and fill as described.

                      Then I hit the whole thing with two coats of Good primer/sealer. I use Ziesler 123. It's expensive, but worth it. This seals to wood so the moisture from the wet plaster does not get pulled into the OSB. Really that is the key. It also is an adhesion promoter. I figured out that the resin on OSB isn't the best for plaster adhesion, and also the OSB will pull the moisture, swell, and when it shrinks back and dries, the plaster will not stick. Two coats of the primer and the plaster will delaminate the OSB is you try to take it off.

                      Next, I lay some GP taping mud over the joints, bed in a layer of mesh jointing tape, and then mud the taped join just like a drywall job. When that is done, I'll screen sand the joints by hand with rough #60 or #80 screens to knock down any high spots. Then I trowel the wall completely with topcoat. I keep it pretty thin, about 1/8"-3/16" or so on average. You don't want to go too thick. The key is to trowel the topping compound on smooth and uniform. Then I sand the whole thing with a standard sized drywall screen hand pad. If needed, you can just rough screen it and then give it a second coat of topping, or touch up any low spots as required. I finish sand it with a finer screen, like #120.

                      That's all there is to it. The amount of sanding dust is unbelievable, but it comes out looking pretty good.
                      -dulcich
                      Last edited by dulcich; February 27, 2012, 06:41 PM.

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                      • #26
                        Jeez Dulcich, nice outhouse.
                        Yes, I'm a CarJunkie... How many times would YOU rebuild the same engine before getting a crate motor?




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                        • #27
                          Looks great Steve. Not to pee on your parade, but PLEASE tell me that that's a Lexan window into the dyno cell. If the window looks out on the front of the engine you're pretty safe but if you are looking at the side stuff can and will get tossed radially from the engine and/or dyno setup. I've seen something as "soft" as a belt make a hell of a dent in a steel accoustical wall. EPA used laminated 1 1/2" Lexan and we looked at the front of the engine (probably overkill).

                          The walls look GREAT - but more effort than this Ol' Guy is going to do. Ah, to be (relatively) young again......

                          Just want you safe in there
                          Dan
                          Last edited by DanStokes; February 28, 2012, 08:59 AM.

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                          • #28
                            The window is 5/16" laminated safety glass looking to the front of the engine.

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                            • #29
                              That's a ton of work! You must have some old world plasterers in your ancestry - that is like black art - getting large areas of mud to lay flat.

                              I admire your tenacity and work ethic. Wow my shoulders and back hurt just thinking about that process.
                              There's always something new to learn.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by dulcich View Post
                                The window is 5/16" laminated safety glass looking to the front of the engine.
                                That should be more than good enough. You'd be surprised how many folks don't think of those things, even those who are supposed to be professionals. Some pay for the oversight big time. I should have known you'd have it all in hand.

                                Dan

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