Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Drilling new bolt pattern on wheels

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Drilling new bolt pattern on wheels

    I came across a smokin deal on some 15x15 Centerline Auto drags with Mickeys already mounted. The problem is they're a ford bolt pattern, and my T bucket if chevy. Is it safe to drill another set of holes, or would adapters be the easiest solution?
    Nitrous is like that hot chick with crabs. you want to hit it, you're just afraid of the consequences

  • #2
    Not safe drilling new holes. Safe would be wheel adapters.
    HRPT LH- 09,10,11,12
    DW- 12,16,17
    "Stay thirsty my friends"
    The worlds most interesting man

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by RAIV70Judge View Post
      Not safe drilling new holes. Safe would be wheel adapters.

      Patrick & Tammy
      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

      Comment


      • #4
        I think adaptors are probably the better choice. I had the rotors on the back of the 'Stang redrilled for 4 lug (I've kept the 4 lug for now) and I'm OK with that but they're clamped between the axle flange and the wheel. So yeah, adaptors.

        Dan

        Comment


        • #5
          What about new axles?
          Originally posted by TC
          also boost will make the cam act smaller

          Comment


          • #6
            or redrilling the axles?
            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

            Comment


            • #7
              Some wheels you can drill a second bolt pattern in between the first, if there's enough meat in between them to add it. Not sure if Auto Drags fall into this category or not. The other catch is you've got to drill them pretty precisely to avoid vibration...

              Comment


              • #8
                Redrill the axles and spindles. I have had this done and it works fine. If you have 5 hole Chevy pattern now, a 5 hole Ford will fit between them no problem.

                I would not alter a wheel for any reason- especially an aluminum wheel. That could cause excessive stresses in a weak area and cause the wheel to fail.
                Why think when you can be doing something fruitful?

                Comment


                • #9
                  My centerlines don't snug up on the hub of the axle like factory wheels do. Is there a longer ford axle that the splined end could be cut off and re-splined? I wonder if the bearing size would be close enough that an over/under size could be used.
                  I would have to see how much meat would be between the newly drilled stud holes and the old holes to be for sure.
                  Originally posted by TC
                  also boost will make the cam act smaller

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just get the right wheels!
                    Last edited by BBR; February 8, 2012, 08:01 AM.
                    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by BBR View Post
                      Just get the right wheels!
                      I had to face palm myself after that comment.....Sometimes the easiest solution is the one most over looked.
                      Originally posted by TC
                      also boost will make the cam act smaller

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        "get the right wheels" is the best answer, redrill the axles if there's enough meat is the next best, but redrilling the wheels and using spacers are both pretty flaky....

                        ebay 260949192368

                        Ask how they measured them, might be they measured the outside instead of the inside of the lip.
                        My fabulous web page

                        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          How much will it cost to pull the axles and have them re-drilled... ?
                          How much are QUALITY adapters? will they increase your track width?
                          How much for the right wheels?

                          Craigslist those rims and buy the right ones..... adapters are a hassle and ya really shouldn't have a ford bolt pattern on your GM/Mopar/AMC rearend....its cornfusing! .....imo.....2cts
                          Mike in Southwest Ohio

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Nik View Post
                            I came across a smokin deal on some 15x15 Centerline Auto drags with Mickeys already mounted. The problem is they're a ford bolt pattern, and my T bucket if chevy. Is it safe to drill another set of holes, or would adapters be the easiest solution?
                            Auto Drags have a machined ring in between the draw-formed halves with full material in that area and can safely have another pattern drilled in. You have to accurately drill the pattern in 1/4" diameter or so (using a transfer-punch template you can make using a divider and scale on a piece of 1/16" aluminum) then follow that with an 11/16 (if I recall correctly) "aircraft" counterbore with the correct-size pilot in a drill press or something that will hold the cutter straight. The tires will probably have to be dismounted to fit in most drill presses and of course the wheels have to have a solid placing on the table.

                            Adaptors will have to have enough thickness to accomodate the length of a proper stud and nut on the base pattern, that will bring the increased track width and associated increased stresses on axles etc. along with it. We all may have to use adaptors at times but they are not usually the first desired choice.

                            I've re-drilled swapmeet Auto Drags a handful of times for myself and others...easily, precisely, safely...and this is the first time I've ever heard someone say it wouldn't work. Perhaps there's a different kind I don't know about. In any event I'm guessing you might ask somebody who's already set up for wheel mods and make your choices with their input.
                            ...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I would re-drill before considering running an adaptor. Adaptors are usually a very poor choice for a variety of reasons. IMO adaptors would be a mistake from the get-go. It has been the better part of twenty years since I last ran a set of Centerline Autodrags, but if it is, as I remember, solid center in the mounting area, a re-drill of the pattern should be no problem. Some wheel shops will do this pretty cheap and more accurately than DIY on a drill-press. It might be worthwhile rather than try and find some that are priced right, and the right bolt pattern. Swapping axles, redrilling brakes, housing ends, bearings - now that is purely insane to get the wheels to bolt on. Like others have suggested, you are going to be way ahead to sell these and buy some other wheels befoe going through all that BS.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X