msd 6ls question

[1988montecarloss 2]

how easy are these to wire? is everything plug and play except the ground, power and tach signal?

im getting my white monte running again with carbed LS power and would like to know before i dive headfirst into doing it haha

[Barry Donovan]

seems an awesome choice for that...plug it right in.
any of those boxes even resembling what it was intended for is quite easy.

for gm, msd even made adapters for tach if needed.

[JeffMcKC]

Very easy

[1988montecarloss 2]

alright, i got another question too, i read that to run the stock 200r4 i need to change out the throttle valve spring and get a different bracket for the tv cable? or could i just use the stock bracket thats still in the car, thats what i used with the carbed 350 that was in it and it worked fine so i dont see how it would be any different with a different motor under the carb?

and would the driveshaft yoke from the 200r4 interchange with one from a th350? the built the350 in my 71 monte has a 6" tailhousing on it so its the same length as the 200r4 so i might just do that, if theyre not the same its no big deal ill just switch the yokes on the 2 cars

[dieselgeek]

The 6LS is easy to wire but you MUST make sure you calibrate the ignition timing.

LS motors have crank trigger wheels that are NOT fit accurately from the factory - they can be off as much as 20 degrees. The factory computer phases them each time the computer is reset by comparing against the cam signal.

So you need to make sure you add a TDC mark and indicator to your balancer and then make sure you adjust the 6LS via laptop so that if it thinks it's running 20 degrees advance, it is actually running 20 degrees - and not 40.

The process is easy and we can walk you through it.

[1988montecarloss 2]

The 6LS is easy to wire but you MUST make sure you calibrate the ignition timing.

LS motors have crank trigger wheels that are NOT fit accurately from the factory - they can be off as much as 20 degrees. The factory computer phases them each time the computer is reset by comparing against the cam signal.

So you need to make sure you add a TDC mark and indicator to your balancer and then make sure you adjust the 6LS via laptop so that if it thinks it's running 20 degrees advance, it is actually running 20 degrees - and not 40.

The process is easy and we can walk you through it.

yeah ive heard of that, how would i find how off it is? with a degree wheel for degreeing cams? and would i have to remember how far off it is and compensate on the msd box for it or could i reset it completely so it reads correct?

[dieselgeek]

yeah ive heard of that, how would i find how off it is? with a degree wheel for degreeing cams? and would i have to remember how far off it is and compensate on the msd box for it or could i reset it completely so it reads correct?

The easy way to do this is: make a TDC mark and pointer on your balancer, a coat hanger and ghetto rig works fine for this. Make sure you get a decent TDC mark though, use a piston stop or ask the guys here the best way to do this.

Then you fire the engine up and look at the timing with a timing light (you'll need a dialback light if you made a TDC mark, or a normal non-dialback if you are using timing tape). Then you adjust the MSD until the timing it shows on your laptop matches the timing you see on the balancer with a timing light.