will this do a flare?

[Barry Donovan]

finding oddball things on a ricer is normal.I would be ashamed to not know what kind of fitting this is... as I really don't.


I don’t know what fitting this is. I thought my master cylinder had these, but it took flare upon looking closer. this one is from power steering..and don’t even know what to call it. I cannot convert to flare it appears. Nothing is ringing a bell in memory..

I want to rebuild a subaru rack and pinion. I have a good rack, obvious modern seals (1993 sold in 1995, then sat for 6 years)

It appears I can flare, then manhandle a flattened flare to the spot it bolts into...just not sure. I would also get it into an SAE/AN if I can...not sure of how much room I got when installed.

[TheSilverBuick]

It looks like a TBI fuel fitting. How to remake that shape I don't know.

[TC]

It's an o-ring flared fitting........Here's an adapter to go to an AN fitting....

http://kingtuttonline.com/~rjays2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=93_220

[squirrel]

just buy the flare tool

http://www.inlinetube.com/Street%20Rod/TLF04.htm

[TheSilverBuick]

You couldn't find a $20 Harbor Freight version

[Barry Donovan]

It's an o-ring flared fitting........Here's an adapter to go to an AN fitting....



http://kingtuttonline.com/~rjays2/in...x&cPath=93_220

am liking this answer.

only found 14 and 16mm to aN..but have both those taps doing other conversions.

I also noticed the oem fitting extra nub is a reducer..as if to be faking big lines on work that is not actually getting done. I have found this in other places on the little sube as well.

Another option, and this is the easiest, is swapping lines I thought were stuck from old rack to the newer one. (as it turns out they aren't stuck) ... would love to slow pressure, increase volume with the conversion however. I did find these same racks on home grown rat rod front ends...there is even bolt on coolers fom the rally cars.(I made my own primitive one anyway)

[Schtauffer]

just buy the flare tool

http://www.inlinetube.com/Street%20Rod/TLF04.htm

I want one of those. I used Doug's and it is a.w.e.s.o.m.e.!

[anotheridiot]

so the answer is that is called a metric bubble flare?

[SuperBuickGuy]

so the answer is that is called a metric bubble flare?

no, just called a bubble flare - it's common on A/C lines

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-Com...item4ab76230ee

Is a less expense (and less-cool) version. Many flaring tools have the dies to make that flare - the die looks like a T, not to be confused with the double flaring tool which has an angle cut on the bottom of the T.

[Barry Donovan]

no, just called a bubble flare - it's common on A/C lines

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-Com...item4ab76230ee

Is a less expense (and less-cool) version. Many flaring tools have the dies to make that flare - the die looks like a T, not to be confused with the double flaring tool which has an angle cut on the bottom of the T.

I just added that to a wish list..
I found an oddity in the master cylinder connection as well. although that is setup to do either normal, or bubble.

[STINEY]

I'm showing my roots here but what the heck.


I found that exact same thing on the high pressure side of the power steering box on my '81 chevy van. The original box began to leak badly after 250,000 miles, so I grabbed a non leaker from the junkyard.

Bolted right on no problem. Then the line would JUST barely start to bolt on. Found this weirdo fitting was the problem, the '79 I grabbed the replacement had a normal flare on it.

Comparing them, that tit with the o-ring on the end was the only difference. Being somewhat desperate to get the van running that day, I gritted my teeth and cut the tit off with a cut-off wheel. Smoothed it with a file, burped a bit of fluid out of it to help flush the bit pieces of metal, and it bolted right up and didn't leak a drop. Went another 50,000 that way with no trouble from the steering at all.

Barnyard for sure, but I swear it worked. Still have the van, any doubters come on over and we'll inspect it over a Yuengling.

[Barry Donovan]

I'm showing my roots here but what the heck.


I found that exact same thing on the high pressure side of the power steering box on my '81 chevy van. The original box began to leak badly after 250,000 miles, so I grabbed a non leaker from the junkyard.

Bolted right on no problem. Then the line would JUST barely start to bolt on. Found this weirdo fitting was the problem, the '79 I grabbed the replacement had a normal flare on it.

Comparing them, that tit with the o-ring on the end was the only difference. Being somewhat desperate to get the van running that day, I gritted my teeth and cut the tit off with a cut-off wheel. Smoothed it with a file, burped a bit of fluid out of it to help flush the bit pieces of metal, and it bolted right up and didn't leak a drop. Went another 50,000 that way with no trouble from the steering at all.

Barnyard for sure, but I swear it worked. Still have the van, any doubters come on over and we'll inspect it over a Yuengling.

that is where I am at with it.
I went and looked up a double flare arbor, then found a vid of how to make a bubble with it (manhandle it)...
it looks like an arbor end that makes a double flare is stuck on a normal flare. kinda silly.

I'll make a fit. very gentle anyway. I wonder if the weird connection is simply to reduce something. if so, I'll be sure to put a good precise kink in an appropriate spot...and the rubbber rings. I bet they are nitrile (those are crazy here locally). I don't need that either.. I'll make a metal to metal.

[Rocketman]

finding oddball things on a ricer is normal.I would be ashamed to not know what kind of fitting this is... as I really don't.

Commonly called a captured o-ring type fitting. Many automotive uses (P/S hoses, trans cooler lines, fuel lines, A/C lines, etc.). More forgiving and less likely to leak (especially during production assembly) than old inverted flare type fittings. Not to be used in brake line connections.

I'm showing my roots here but what the heck.


I found that exact same thing on the high pressure side of the power steering box on my '81 chevy van. The original box began to leak badly after 250,000 miles, so I grabbed a non leaker from the junkyard.

Bolted right on no problem. Then the line would JUST barely start to bolt on. Found this weirdo fitting was the problem, the '79 I grabbed the replacement had a normal flare on it.

Comparing them, that tit with the o-ring on the end was the only difference. Being somewhat desperate to get the van running that day, I gritted my teeth and cut the tit off with a cut-off wheel. Smoothed it with a file, burped a bit of fluid out of it to help flush the bit pieces of metal, and it bolted right up and didn't leak a drop. Went another 50,000 that way with no trouble from the steering at all.

Barnyard for sure, but I swear it worked. Still have the van, any doubters come on over and we'll inspect it over a Yuengling.

As you found out, you "can" do that with success at times, but it is a lot harder to get an inverted flare fitting to seal on a captured o-ring seat

Best way is to buy/rent/borrow the correct tool and create your own or buy the correct repair end fitting at your local parts store