Need some Ford tech help

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  • Bamfster
    Lord God King BangShifter
    • Apr 2008
    • 10445

    #1

    Need some Ford tech help

    '07 F150, 5.4 auto w/41k. It's been having an issue with the VVT solenoids making A LOT of noise/clatter on start up, it has now progressed to warm starts as well. They have been replaced once already @ 30k or so.

    Now granted, the owner doesn't check oil level ... ever! I got it for front brakes, oil change and just the usual check up stuff. Engine light is on, and owner reports a serious lack of power. I assume this is the truck going into "safe" mode.

    Here's what doesn't make sense. The truck won't connect to any code scanner/reader that is plugged into it. I was able to connect mine on the last go around with the VVT solenoids.

    Anybody have some thoughts/ideas/or ??? .... What am I missing? Did I miss something or were there some specific problems with these trucks?
    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!
  • JOES66FURY
    Deputy Director Procrastination & Incompetence Dept.
    • Jun 2009
    • 12184

    #2
    my old truck would not toss codes but an engine light was on and it was way down on power...the ECU was changed by the dealer under warranty. thats about all I got....is there an oil pick up or sensor that could put the truck in safe mode if it is dirty or clogged...My new ram had this issue a little down on power, oil lever was good...got a code for an oil pick up, changed it and it was good to go...just thinking out loud here
    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    Comment

    • SuperBuickGuy
      No Life Outside BangShift.com
      • Jan 2008
      • 32285

      #3
      stuck lifters? I had a chevrolet truck that had stuck lifters, it wouldn't throw a code, but the engine knock sensor would severely retard the timing - thus terrible loss of power

      and it was the sameish thing - someone used penzoil in it, and it looked like a smoker's lung when I pulled the intake. The fix was lots of diesel, the right fix would have been to replace the cam and lifters
      Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 3, 2012, 09:53 AM.
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

      Comment

      • milner351
        No Life Outside BangShift.com
        • Nov 2007
        • 16033

        #4
        There is a known issue with the adjusters on some of those trucks - but I have no idea why it won't connect to a code scanner....
        There's always something new to learn.

        Comment

        • Mater
          Superhero BangShifter
          • Apr 2011
          • 2347

          #5
          if it was the VVT the truck will idle like poo but clear out at higher RPM they also tend to run better cold as when the oil warms up it becuase thinner

          having it be oil change neglectied is not a good thing as the VVT is verry sensitive to oil pressur eit needs a minimum of 25psi at idle and even at 25psi exactly they can have running issues

          if it will not connect check the DLC fuse they tend to blow out or the ground is bad. when i was working at the dealer 80% of the trucks that came in had a blown DLC fuse
          Last edited by Mater; May 3, 2012, 12:55 PM.
          Originally posted by Remy-Z;n1167534
          Congratulations, man. You've just inherited the "Patron Saint of Automotive Lost Causes" from me. No question.

          75Grand AM 455:Pissed off GrandMA, 68 Volkswagen Type1 "beetle":it will run some year

          Comment

          • Bamfster
            Lord God King BangShifter
            • Apr 2008
            • 10445

            #6
            Thanks Mater, is the DLC fuse in the fuse box or power control under the hood?

            This is the 5.4 mod motor guys, doesn't really have a traditional cam and lifter .... it an overhead cam with a type of follower/lash cap that rides on the lobe. VVT solenoids were changed about 10k ago and it cleared it up .... but the loud clatter is back on start up. Anyone know about the cam phasers and diagnostics in that area?
            Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

            Comment

            • Mater
              Superhero BangShifter
              • Apr 2011
              • 2347

              #7
              fuse box in the glov box i beleive

              is the solenoid just noisey or does the truck also idle like poo wile it's making noise?
              Originally posted by Remy-Z;n1167534
              Congratulations, man. You've just inherited the "Patron Saint of Automotive Lost Causes" from me. No question.

              75Grand AM 455:Pissed off GrandMA, 68 Volkswagen Type1 "beetle":it will run some year

              Comment

              • Bamfster
                Lord God King BangShifter
                • Apr 2008
                • 10445

                #8
                Originally posted by Mater View Post
                fuse box in the glov box i beleive

                is the solenoid just noisey or does the truck also idle like poo wile it's making noise?
                Low speed is crap, low idle stopped in gear. The clatter, upon cold start, last for 3-4 seconds then goes away. If it is shut off immediately and let sit for 15-20 min, it will clatter again on start up. If it's allowed to reach full temp, no clatter on re-start until it is stone cold. The low speed driveability is sporadic, when it does turn to crap, it sets the CEL. The CEL can be re-set w/a battery pull even though the ALDL won't talk to the scanner.
                Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

                Comment

                • fast Ed
                  Superhero BangShifter
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 2625

                  #9
                  Lack of maintenance will kill the cam phasers. We've probably done more of those than the VCT solenoids on the 5.4 3Vs at the dealership I work at. There are screens in the oil passages for the phasers and solenoids that can get clogged up. Also, there is a service message about using cheapie aftermarket oil filters on the 3V engines, they can cause issues too.


                  cheers
                  Ed
                  Ed Nicholson - Caledon Ontario - a bit NW of Toronto
                  07 Mustang GT with some stuff
                  88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe 5-speed

                  Comment

                  • Bamfster
                    Lord God King BangShifter
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 10445

                    #10
                    Thanks Ed! How big of a job are the phazers? I'm finding a lot of info on the screens and passages, can those be cleaned/cleared or is it pretty much replace everything situation?
                    Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

                    Comment

                    • fast Ed
                      Superhero BangShifter
                      • Dec 2007
                      • 2625

                      #11
                      You can clean out the screens as best as possible, or get new ones for about $30 per side. For the phasers you obviously have to get the timing cover off to access, once you're in there I don't think it's too bad to do.


                      cheers
                      Ed
                      Ed Nicholson - Caledon Ontario - a bit NW of Toronto
                      07 Mustang GT with some stuff
                      88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe 5-speed

                      Comment

                      • Bamfster
                        Lord God King BangShifter
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 10445

                        #12
                        Fuse 24 on this truck .... DLC works now, code 0174 thrown but it drives just fine now. I read somewhere that this engine is pretty fussy about the oil filte used. Seems Motorcraft filters have an anti drain-back valve that keeps oil up in the VVT solenoids. I'm going to try an engine flush, clean the screens and a heavier weight oil ....
                        Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

                        Comment

                        • Mater
                          Superhero BangShifter
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 2347

                          #13
                          phasers can be done with just removing the cam covers but you need the special ford tool to hold the chains in place for a first time ever doing this job you would be better off remvoing the chain cover that way you can also get a look to see if the chain guides are worn out

                          the phasers are not too bad book calls for 14hr both sides if i remember correctly we had 2 or 3 in a day back on 2010 for cam phaser failure most where cuased by lack of oil pressure from poor maintnace and had to long block the other 20% we just put on a good ford filter after replacing the cam phasers and screens and they where fine never was the phaser solenoid on any of them
                          Last edited by Mater; May 4, 2012, 11:40 AM.
                          Originally posted by Remy-Z;n1167534
                          Congratulations, man. You've just inherited the "Patron Saint of Automotive Lost Causes" from me. No question.

                          75Grand AM 455:Pissed off GrandMA, 68 Volkswagen Type1 "beetle":it will run some year

                          Comment

                          • Bamfster
                            Lord God King BangShifter
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 10445

                            #14
                            And I'm not really hearing any unusually loud or obvious noise in the area of the phasers after the initial cold start clatter stops (3-4 seconds after start up) from the solenoids.
                            Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

                            Comment

                            • Mater
                              Superhero BangShifter
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 2347

                              #15
                              then the soleniods are proably fine if you could i would check oil pressure on start up would be easier then taring it down needs a minimum of 25psi according to the book but really needs 26-27psi at idle
                              Last edited by Mater; May 4, 2012, 03:37 PM.
                              Originally posted by Remy-Z;n1167534
                              Congratulations, man. You've just inherited the "Patron Saint of Automotive Lost Causes" from me. No question.

                              75Grand AM 455:Pissed off GrandMA, 68 Volkswagen Type1 "beetle":it will run some year

                              Comment

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