oil pressure

[Barry Donovan]

Thread Size 3/8-19 ISO Tapered Pipe Thread
80 PSI - 87-108 Ohms
40 PSI - 100-135 Ohms
3-7 PSI - 185-135 Ohms
0-3 PSI open circuit

my question is a bit more complicated..
should I just scrap the dash gauge and crazy resistor syncher sending unit and go with a direct line?
the unit is brand new.

I changed to stainless pipes, and plugs, and steel sleeved the heads and carburator and intake, and ignition coil, and wires and...

I have a jackass zero reading with oil squeezing out of a top valve cover bolt on a sideways boxer..that is enough oil to blow old alloy off the block.

I am certain I am going to find 105-110psi without their resistance -12v insanity.

any pros on this subject..maybe hack a sending unit somehow? I like the dash with oe gauges in it, would like to make this work.

if open circuit reads a zero..this means no resistance...electrically, not physical oil event. can I resist the -12v going back to the gauge? it is a 1 wire reversal.

I have strange numbers. 45 is normal at full warm.. I get that in the cold. This means oil is thick and not flowing like when it is warm and reading zero...which is actually going for a world record high pressure reading.
think japanese to decipher.

[Barry Donovan]

assuming 25 years is not happening to everybody..

I ponder an oleum happening to the oil in the past 5. I did learn of this on some other old engines..aging alloy and the years of oil. opposite of fail. just not soft and quiet anymore. This one has had ingredients to keep going. just a maine highway at 10 below is gaining a sacred breeze nothing has ever breathed. this buggy has had alot of the "AWD for real" days leaving it alone out there...even a hundred miles at a time.

batteries last longer than the stamp..all year round. even the burn in for the carb, should be draining the heck out of battery...and it seems to be invincible in every subject.

compression high, superslicked, gets hit by lightning and can do 70 on 2 cylinders flaming thermite in the wind on a bad headgasket with antifreeze boiling in the oil flying out of the tallest point of the engine...

yeah. I have got to stop looking for normal problems.

silica tin bearings are probably harder then brembos with a slick that is never going to die.

making it safe has got all the xtras already, 4 engine grounds, the clutch is a spec with a can that forces the tranny to be left alone...

coming to a head as the saying goes...

just drive the wonder of internal combustion that is barely 1 hundred with people like me still pioneers ...just by living with a 25 year runtime. A real world runtime.

if someone knows how to humor oem squishiness that is never coming back to gain a reading...that would be some great advice from the unknowns.

[Beagle]

I prefer the smell of a dripping mechanical, charcoal ready goodness dripping right onto the carpet, saturating the whole thing for the inevitable bonfire to come.

Where are you installing it at?

The VW I drove had crazy high cold pressure, 50 or so idle, then dropped to about 8-10 idle when warm and everything expanded. It was 40ish at cruise altitude. I stopped looking, and checked the oil frequently instead.

[Barry Donovan]

I prefer the smell of a dripping mechanical, charcoal ready goodness dripping right onto the carpet, saturating the whole thing for the inevitable bonfire to come.

Where are you installing it at?

The VW I drove had crazy high cold pressure, 50 or so idle, then dropped to about 8-10 idle when warm and everything expanded. It was 40ish at cruise altitude. I stopped looking, and checked the oil frequently instead.

the unit is right smakc dab in the middle dangling down towards skid plate.

I do get a reading, it seems off alignment. My worry is they tricked the units movement to move regulator..this means it controls the pump indirectly with physics. As it resists, pressure is higher, the regulator spring accepts the juice not getting grounded easily, the coil spring gets warmed to no current flow, releases pressure. I did bake the heck out of the pump to gain a very hard casing (it sings like a bell if you tap it while off the engine) I must have changed it molecular. pumps more, reads low..while pressure does not fade away. I got oil on the top of cam casings. Big oil.

a backwards bunch of engineers, but as a hillbilly am catching to the ass first mentality.

The monojet is taking it out of the sexless bouyancy of air fuel (speaking of droning exhaust) and is having a good way with it. in fact it is very nice..this may set it for good.

I give it to summer, I have another engine. it just makes me mad the compression and crisp sharpness of the engine acting so young..
right on the money and beyond.

[Barry Donovan]

possible fix

strange pursuit to find no short circuits..
the only thing left is right front speaker.
Everything works, the whole car...
that left this world in a peculiar way with the heater resistor.

resistor..speaker amplifying a getaway of frequency...Hmmm.


I simply swapped a left for a right for now, after painting interior of door panels (which is the last goofy material left- cheap cardboard type stuff)

no odors when xylene hitit. no roadkills, leaky people. clean old car..and I am the first to remove the panels in its entire runtime.

anyway to speed this up without an oscillator crystal in a strategic spot?

I welded the hell out of this..seems the density gains would be done by now, letting continuity japanese sized go about its gentle business.

[Huskinhano]

No offense but did you use any sealer or Teflon tape to seal the threads on the sending unit? It always puzzles me when I see guys wrap Teflon tape on threads that are suppose to ground the system and not isolate it. Make sure your engine has a ground strap to the body as well. Electricity is funny that way, it'll go through stuff it ain't suppose to just to complete a circuit and cause all sorts of funky problems as a result. As an elctrician, I've seen the darnest things happen because of that!

[STINEY]

^^^^

I second the above. No teflon, good grounds to body, engine, and frame ( I know the Suby has no real frame, but still)

[Barry Donovan]

^^^^

I second the above. No teflon, good grounds to body, engine, and frame ( I know the Suby has no real frame, but still)

the frame up front and below rear strut..its freakish...then I solid seamed it.

gm trucks finally figured the box beam part..and they still aren't solid seamed to a unibody.
I'd put a v8 in the sube before a vega.

anyway..
found the gauge is a two part weirdo with a heat spring, rheostat and points at both ends..the gauge and the sending unit. the only real making sense of it was the diaghram at the sender end..the rest is all wacko theories yet again.

it is a desynch..possibly permanent, no adjusting.

being this did have coolant in oil a year ago.. lucky to see a reading. coolant does the opposite in heat, no doubt excited the weird setup they got going..can't even call it analog..

I will leave it alone drive it hot. electrical is all good. once and awhile a snap to normal reading.

the oddity, aside from the reading, #1 rod is getting the full brunt of 100psi. when that is knocking it sends oil out the top valve cover bolt where there is no journals even nearby...

I'll call it self healing and a test for the old block.